Pokémon The Alola Pokedex

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Lanturn (Chinchou)
Magnalux wilsonii

Overview

The deep sea is still poorly understood. The vast majority of it remains unmapped. Our glimpses come mostly from a smattering of submersible trips, the occasional washed-up carcass, and migrants who visit us from the depths. Most deep sea residents inspire a mix of revulsion and fear in those who see them.

The great lanturn found off the coast of Alola are the rare exception. In modern times they are often seen positively due to their rounded lines, playful disposition, and similarities to the charismatic palafin. The less palatable elements of the anglerfish such as sharp backwards-facing teeth and parasitic males are downplayed in the great lanturn. They still have backwards-facing teeth, but they are much wider than other anglerfish. Like all anglerfish they do not have teeth extending from their upper jaw.

The species is also one of the only pokémon that frequents the abyssal plains and also makes a reasonably good companion. They are tolerant of shallow waters and largely sedentary, meaning they do not need a tank quite as large as their size suggests. Lanturn still dislike bright lights that are not their own. Some specimens are difficult to feed. They are also prone to shorting electronics in and around their tank during meals. These issues pale in comparison to every other species in their subfamily.

Skilled aquarists with an interest in deep-sea fauna should strongly consider lanturn. Island challengers, with their frequent travel during the day and away from the coast, may wish to avoid the species.

Physiology

Both stages are classified as dual water- and electric-types. The ruling is not controversial for females. There has been a great deal of discussion as to whether male lanturn should retain their electric-typing as they are no longer capable of producing the blinding flashes of female lanturn or male chinchou. They still retain the ability to sense electrical currents in their vicinity and can use weak shocks to hunt when absolutely necessary.

In many of lanturn’s relatives, adult males physically fuse with the adult females. This is not the case for male lanturn. They will briefly be addressed here. For the rest of the guide, assume that only females are being referred to unless specifically stated otherwise.

Male chinchou are similar to female chinchou, only about one-tenth the size and with weaker electrical attacks. Male lanturn lack any sort of light creating antennae. Their teeth are primarily focused on hanging on to the female’s body and siphoning nutrients from her blood stream. Adult males only grow to roughly five inches in length. They also have a more typically fusiform body shape compared to the relatively compressed shape of female lanturn.

Chinchou have a depressed body shape and a fin configuration that makes them very weak swimmers. Their modified dorsal fin is located towards the rear of the body and is split into two branches. Each branch ends in a bulb organ. These organs allow for chemicals to be mixed and subjected to electric currents of varying strength. The bulbs can each produce luminous intensities of up to 100,000 candelas. The bulbs working in concert can also produce electrical currents of up to 1,000 volts in the water when working in concert. Curiously, the bulbs can also be recharged by shocks from other electric-types. Lanturn will often refuel weakened chinchou they encounter.

Chinchou’s anal and pectoral fins form crude flippers that can be used to slowly paddle through the ocean or crawl on the ground. They spend a great deal of their time resting on the seabed. If they find themselves on land they can move towards the nearest body of water. Chinchou’s caudal fin is essentially just a stub.

Chinchou primarily sense the world through their highly developed lateral lines. These let them feel the location of almost any living creature within one hundred feet of them. Their vision is somewhat limited, with odd cross-shaped eyes that let them sense the rough size and position of a creature but little else.

Both chinchou and lanturn have backwards-facing teeth. These are designed to trap stunned or killed prey in their mouths. The sharp edges of the teeth can cause lacerations that finish off wounded prey. Both stages use suction to inhale their prey whole.

Lanturn have a far more compressed body shape than their juvenile form. Their eyes are now far more developed and capable of seeing colors, movement, light patterns, and even textures. The modified dorsal fin is much the same, except that now one bulb is in front of the other rather than both trailing off to the sides of the head. The front bulb is more powerful than the back one and can reach luminous intensities of over 500,000 candelas. Lanturn are also more versatile than chinchou and are good at mimicking the color, pattern, and intensity of other bioluminescent creatures in the deep sea to lure in prey or mimic even larger predators.

Lanturn spend far more time in the water column than on the benthos and most of their fins have grown and become better suited for swimming. They are still not particularly fast swimmers but they are rather graceful.

Chinchou are mostly dark blue. Lanturn are counter-shaded with yellow or light blue ventral sides and faces with dark blue dorsal sides.

Lanturn can grow to be six feet long and weigh upwards of three hundred pounds. Wild lifespans are very poorly understood. Captive specimens can live for several decades in optimal conditions.

Behavior

Chinchou spend almost all of their time on the seafloor. They light up their bulbs to lure in prey when they sense suitably small organisms nearby. The lights are kept at a very low intensity to draw in small predators, which are then eaten when they get close. Chinchou hunt by either blinding their prey, shocking them, or both. They are then eaten in one bite. Chinchou, especially males, have also been known to scavenge or inhale larger pieces of detritus that fall near them.

Male lanturn spend almost all of their time biting onto a female. One or two attached males does not seem to cause the female distress, although she may react poorly if there are too many. Males tend to fight each other to claim their territory before this occurs. If need be the female can scrape herself against the seafloor or simply persuade a cleaner fish or predator to remove a few males.

In the deep sea, lanturn rely on mimicry to keep themselves fed and safe. Few water-types enjoy picking a fight with lanturn and their powerful electric shocks and can usually be deterred by simply illuminating the area and exposing themselves. Some larger predators, such as malamar, probably hunt lanturn. Captive specimens react poorly to large cephalopods. One lanturn carcass washed ashore with grievous wounds consistent with a malamar’s tentacles. Some scholars have theorized that ground-types may also prey on chinchou and lanturn. Evidence of large deep-sea ground-types is currently speculative and based on a few carcasses, gut contents from fish captured by a submersible, and strange formations on the abyssal plains. On the surface lanturn are vulnerable to attacks from fast attacks from large predators such as palafin and sharpedo because they need a few seconds to ready their most powerful shocks.

Lanturn appear to have a monthly cycle. Around the full moon they spend most of their time in the deep ocean, just above the seafloor. They slowly migrate towards the surface over the course of a week or so until they arrive around the new moon. Lanturn prefer to stay around sixty feet beneath the surface at night. They use bright flashes of light to stun opponents before shocking or swallowing them. These flashes are easily seen from the surface. During the day they tend to darken their bulbs and retreat down to depths of around three hundred feet.

Lanturn are highly curious and routinely approach and engage with submersibles. Near the surface they may also approach boats and scuba divers. Very large ships or pokémon can scare them away. Captive specimens appreciate toys and have demonstrated play behaviors with conspecifics.

Husbandry

Chinchou and lanturn like darker waters. Chinchou also need cold waters. Their maximum tolerance is around 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Lanturn can tolerate water temperatures into the low 70s. Both stages can also tolerate the waters of the oxygen minimum zone, although completely anoxic waters can be fatal. One of the biggest problem in tank design for the species is ensuring that life support systems can survive powerful electric shocks that are prone to occur when the residents are hungry or startled. The pokémon’s sensitive lateral lines can also cause them stress in a tank with electronic devices.

Feeding lanturn is rarely a problem as they will happily eat anything readily identifiable as meat. They may still be willing to eat larger pellets and other fish food products, although this varies by individual. Lanturn can be taught not to eat tankmates, although the possibility of strong shocks still makes this inadvisable.

Chinchou can be infuriatingly difficult to feed. They sense prey primarily through lateral lines, making live food far and away the easiest for them. However, finding food fish that are likely to swim near chinchou, unable to harm them, and can be reliably acquired is a challenge. Many aquarists simply pre-injure the prey before dropping it in front of the chinchou. Some consider this to be unethical. Some smarter specimens may accept carcasses of prey species they have previously hunted. The main consolation for chinchou trainers is that feeding need only happen once every few weeks. Very large meals can be followed by fasting periods of several months. Cinchou should be fed when they begin to move around the floor of the tank. Some specimens learn that this behavior triggers feeding and will show signs of hunger even when they have very recently been fed.

Lanturn need more enrichment than most fish. They appreciate new stimuli such as plants, hiding places, ropes, balls, feeding toys, and ‘play dates’ with other lanturn. Lanturn can also be kept in packs of up to six adults and several chinchou. Some specimens appreciate music. Others find it stressful. The same is true for exposure to new light patterns. Many lanturn see flashing lights with no bioelectricity around them as deeply concerning. Others love to learn new patterns. One aquarium lanturn in Germany saw a video of a rave and now routinely lights up the gallery she is in with bright, flashing colors. She has even learned how to simultaneously broadcast different colors from each bulb, a behavior not previously seen in the species.

Chinchou fare poorly on the trail. They are rarely allowed into Pokémon Center pools, and even if they were the temperature would be unsuitable for them. Even the surface waters of Alola are too warm. Lanturn are better equipped to handle the coastal seas, although they dislike being out in the day and are not allowed in Pokémon Center pools. This makes them more difficult to travel with than the average water-type, but not impossible for very determined trainers.

Male lanturn are easiest to keep with a female lanturn. They can technically be raised without one, but this is difficult and serves little purpose. Females do not require males for anything other than breeding. They may even result in a greater frequency of illnesses from the multiple open wounds on their body.

Illness

Lanturn and chinchou illnesses are still not well studied. One of the most common symptoms is bloating, usually as a result of a bacterial infection. Prompt application of antibiotics can reduce symptoms. Still, consult a veterinarian and have blood work drawn to rule out other possible causes. Waiting for the antibiotic treatment to run its course can prove catastrophic if there was another underlying cause.

Bulb injuries are common in chinchou. Most are fixed by evolution. These illnesses are usually not fatal in captivity as they can hunt without them. Bulb injuries in lanturn are also rarely fatal but can cause significant psychological distress. Unfortunately, most veterinarians are unwilling to operate on a poorly-documented electricity-producing organ due to the risk of accidental discharge.

Lanturn in general are relatively frail and prone to illness. Keep a close eye for symptoms such as stringy waste, discoloration, labored breathing, or anorexia. The latter can be hard to diagnose due to the infrequency with which the species eats.

Evolution

There is significant debate as to whether male lanturn or chinchou should be classified as their own evolutionary stage, akin to how nidoking and tauros are handled. Lanturn has a better case than most due to the lack of bulbs on males. This is even done for multiple other anglerfish species. However, the males ability to live freely and similar internal organs to females has led to some argument against the classification. Scientific bodies in multiple jurisdictions have designated male lanturn ‘anglatch.’

Male chinchou tend to evolve around three months of age. Female chinchou evolve around one year. Chinchou eat everything they possibly can in the leadup to evolution. Or, perhaps, it is the other way around. Chinchou may only be able to evolve after a period of exceptional food availability. This makes sense for wild chinchou, as they would be trying to eat everything available to them regardless of the approach of evolution.

Battle

Lanturn struggle in most standard formats. They have relatively few reliable options of striking outside of their pool. On land they can survive for a few minutes but are not particularly mobile. Bright flashes of light can blind targets and trainers alike but do not deal a great deal of damage. Some referees view these flashes as excessive force. The species is not used often enough in the American or international leagues for a uniform ruling to have been reached.

Underwater lanturn function much better. Most of the stalwarts in the formats of aquatic or mostly aquatic battles are electric-types. Relatively few common species have electricity as powerful as lanturn’s. Lanturn are phenomenal at wallbreaking. They can still struggle against rushdown attackers due to their charge and recharge time. Lanturn can also function as impromptu walls or tanks with rest and sleep talk paired with flashes of light and attacks like scald or thunder wave. They are not the best at this role, but they can usually fill it.

Most of the totems in the island challenge are not aquatic. Lanturn’s initial flash of light can still disorient a great many opponents and allow the rest of the team to finish the job. This gives them utility throughout the island challenge, although they are unlikely to contribute as much against the kahunas and Elite 4 as they do not have all of their pokémon out at one time to be blinded.

Chinchou are best not battled with. This is a small loss for island challengers as it would be nearly impossible to bring one on a journey.

Acquisition

Chinchou capture, while technically legal, is effectively only done by the staff of public aquariums with access to autonomous vehicles. Wild chinchou spend most of their time on the seafloor and are rarely seen at depths of less than six hundred feet. They are very rarely available for purchase. Chinchou require a Class IV license to possess.

Lanturn do come to the surface on the nights of new moons. There is no reliable way to find one as they tend to surface in different places each time. They are most commonly found south of Akala, but this is not guaranteed. Lanturn will sometimes approach divers or boats to investigate. They may come back to the same place to visit a boat again the next month if they are given food or toys. This is the easiest way to bond with a lanturn and set up a capture.

Lanturn are more common in the aquarium trade than chinchou. There are a handful of breeders of the species but most captive specimens were wild-caught. Adoption of difficult-to-care-for fish is usually unavailable as rehoming is handled by a network of public aquariums and private collectors. Trainers interested in joining a waitlist for unreleasable lanturn should contact the Hau’oli Aquairum. Lanturn require a Class III license to possess.

Breeding

Lanturn females accept mating attempts from males about four times a year. The female will inflame her cloaca and send a chemical signal that she is receptive to mating. All attached males will squabble for the right to mate. The winner will do so by swimming into the cloaca. He does not leave. Three to five chinchou are born at the end of a two-month pregnancy. Females apparently return to the same place for every birth. Most chinchou packs are made up of siblings of different ages.

Captive breeding is possible but generally not done due to the difficulty of chinchou care and the increased risk of health problems that comes from keeping male lanturn. Wild specimens are also still relatively common on the surface.

Cross-breeding with the lesser lanturn has been observed. They rarely mate with other anglerfish, even in captive settings.

Relatives

There are three species of lanturn. These are the great lanturn and the lesser lanturn, M. johnsonii. These were formerly believed to be the same species. Greater lanturn are found throughout the warm surface waters of the Indo-Pacific and the depths below them. Lesser lanturn only grow to three feet in length and are more common in the cooler regions of the South Atlantic and Southern Oceans. They are otherwise similar to greater lanturn, albeit with proportionally longer teeth.

The North Atlantic or false lanturn (M. monoceros) is native to the Atlantic Coast of Europe. They inhabit shallower waters than the other species and have a mottled brown or green coloration instead of a blue-and-yellow one. They also possess only one bulb instead of two. It is angled forwards in chinchou as well as lanturn. Their bulb seems to have fewer possible colors. False lanturn lean more heavily into water-type attacks but can emit short bursts of electricity from their bulb. They primarily hunt bug-types in estuaries. The bulb is used to lure in bug-types before a pulse of water knocks them into the water to be finished off. Alternatively, many common insects can be fried at once and then eaten. During the day lanturn bury themselves into the substrate and try to disguise their bulb as a plant.

False chinchou spend most of their time buried in the substrate. They have a unique ability to mimic the bioelectric signatures of other species. This draws in predators that use their lateral lines to hunt, only to overwhelm their senses with a burst of electricity before fleeing from or swallowing them, depending on the size of the fish lured in.

Lanturn are related to a number of smaller anglerfish species, most native to the deep sea. Few of these are believed to be pokémon. Rumors persist of a gigantic lanturn relative capable of swallowing a submarine whole. The rumors were intentionally spread by the U.S. Navy to cover up a Mexican sailing ship’s encounter with an experimental nuclear submarine.

 

[Persephone]

Garbodor (Trubbish)
Pestisviva urbisnovae

Overview

Garbodor are incredibly strange creatures. No one seems entirely certain where they came from or what they are. They simply appeared in a landfill outside Castelia in 1967. They were initially believed to be phantoms possessing garbage bags, but this theory fell was debunked once the first reliable ectoplasm sensors were developed. They were briefly believed to be sentient bacterial amalgamations. However, this theory of garbodor has become harder to support. It is now apparent that every individual has wildly different bacterial compositions. Unless they are amalgamations of not only different individual cells but cells of different species, the bacterial hive mind theory must be rejected. This leads to the possibility that they are an extremely strange mineral pokémon based on petroleum products instead of stone.

The species is at once incredibly noxious and one of the most efficient decomposers of manmade chemicals and plastics currently known. They are useful for heavily controlled industrial sites. Most individual trainers will find them to be too much of a health hazard to bother with.

Physiology

Both trubbish and garbodor are classified as pure poison-types. The ruling is not controversial.

It remains unclear what form of life the line most resemble. The leading theory is that they are mineral pokémon hosting symbiotic bacteria. Both stages have outer ‘skin’ made of plastics. The grey or brown skin is relatively thick and often coated with a thin layer of greasy green sludge.

Both stages have a digestive system consisting of a mouth, a throat lined with sharp objects to break down material into smaller pieces, a gizzard with coarse stones that grinds food down even further, and then a stomach. The stomach consists of one or more chambers with specialized bacteria creating chemicals necessary to break down food. The number of stomach chambers and the primary bacteria in them depends on the pokémon’s diet. Specimens with more varied diets tend to have multiple small chambers. Those that eat only one thing day in and day out will have a single large stomach. Garbodor can specialize their stomachs to consume almost anything, from rotting produce to petrochemicals to low grade radioactive waste. What cannot be easily digested is then disposed of.

Trubbish have a lumpy body that is almost entirely coated in slime at all times. This is one of their primary defense mechanisms. The other is their fumes. Almost all trubbish and garbodor are constantly leaking toxic fumes. These are produced by the breakdown of chemicals and plastics in their stomach. The exact composition of the fumes varies by diet. Only trubbish fed on almost exclusively organic matter lack them. Even these trubbish are still capable of pumping toxins into their slime depending upon their exact diet.

Trubbish almost always have two eyes and two ears. These appear to work in a similar way to the equivalents in vertebrate animals. The ears sense vibrations. They are also used to detect airborne chemicals and communicate with conspecifics. Their eyesight is surprisingly keen at distances of a few feet. Models and experiments suggest that beyond this range they can make out colors but struggle to make out the precise shape of objects. Both stages appear to have strong senses of taste that let them determine the chemical composition of almost anything they put in their mouth. This makes bites a common greeting among trubbish. It can also make them dangerous to humans, especially if their front teeth break the skin.

Trubbish also have two arms used to move things to their mouth. Most develop pseudo-thumbs made of brightly colored plastics. These are fixed in place but combine with the limited movements of the arms to let them better grasp things.

Garbodor are significantly bulkier than trubbish. Their ears are now tipped with tufts of flesh that serve an unknown purpose. Garbodor’s legs are shorter and broader than trubbish’s, making them very slow but difficult to topple. Their slime tends to be more congealed and only covers the top half of their body. Some specimens even have ‘capes’ of congealed slime trailing behind them, occasionally breaking off and being left behind on the ground. Discarded capes are often eaten by other garbodor.

Their body is also more customizable than trubbish’s. Garbodor seem to form their arms’ structure with found parts, customizing them to their needs. Some garbodor have long arms that help them grab things from up high. Others have bulky ones that let them lift heavy objects to get to food. Others still have improvised weapons or ways to vent specific toxins. Garbodor are also fond of sticking found objects into folds in their skin. They are then sealed in place with an adhesive they can secrete from their skin. These objects are often toys, brightly colored objects, or other visually interesting items.

Garbodor can grow to be five feet in height. They can weigh over three hundred pounds, although this varies depending on arm composition and diet. Wild lifespans are not known. Captive specimens can live for up to thirty years.

Behavior

Most garbodor are now captive specimens. They are happy to have a steady supply of food and protection from predators. However, there are inevitably a few feral pokémon in more polluted areas. This is more common in open dumps in developing countries or long-abandoned sites such as the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone.

In Alola trubbish can occasionally be found wandering cities. Wild specimens are only common in Tapu Village and Po Town. There they are hunted down and preyed upon by muk. Garbodor are naturally slow and their natural defenses pose little threat to their fellow poison-types. This has led to natural selection favoring two separate, often contradictory adaptations: weight and speed. Faster garbodor and trubbish can simply outrun their even slower predators. Heavier and stronger ones can use moves like stomping tantrum to disorient muk and drive them away. The Tapu Village garbodor tend to favor speed while the Po Town population have become steadily heavier over time. Ecologists have so far managed to prevent the eradication of these populations in order to facilitate a real-time study of speciation in mostly abandoned environments. The garbodor are still culled when they wander into populated areas.

Trubbish are live in dumps of four to ten individuals. They trade shifts while feeding. One trubbish will keep watch for potential predators while the rest feed. They all scatter if a muk approaches. Trubbish’s excellent color vision is well-suited for detecting the synthetic muk that are abundant in Alola. They use their ears to communicate feelings. Their ears stand straight up when angry or afraid and flop down when they are hungry. A trubbish with ears between the extremes is showing their contentment. They also believed to communicate with conspecifics through belches. The exact length, volume, and chemical composition of the belch conveys a different message. These messages have not yet been decoded.

Garbodor are primarily solitary. They will only live in close quarters if there is abundant food or the individuals are specialized for different diets. Garbodor tend to stay in one place until the food is depleted and then wander in search of their next meal. They are fond of abandoned residences and will scavenge them for toys or other interesting objects. On occasion they can be seen pulling their collection from its storage pouches and examining it.

Husbandry

Captive trubbish and garbodor treated as pets should be fed almost exclusively wood or food scraps. Rot and mold do not bother them, but can result in more toxic slime. They never smell pleasant, but their fumes are not literally harmful to human health if kept on a stable diet. It still cannot be guaranteed that the garbodor will never experiment with eating plastics or other waste. Children and the infirm should avoid close contact with even the most domestic of garbodor.

This diet makes garbodor ill-suited for combat. Trainers who wish to battle with their garbodor are encouraged to set up a stream of toxic wastes for them to eat and store the pokémon in a well-ventilated facility with emission control technology. This can be an expensive setup for a pokémon that can charitably be described as above-average in power. This method of raising garbodor is only typically employed by wealthy poison-type specialists and garbage disposal companies.

Garbodor kept in these controlled, sterile conditions require a fair bit of supplementary enrichment in the form of toys, music, or projected broadcasts of colorful cartoons. Conventional televisions are not recommended as enrichment. Garbodor will often try to eat or ‘collect’ them by breaking it into smaller pieces. Roof-mounted projects are more likely to survive and screens are cheaper to replace if consumed or otherwise destroyed.

Trubbish will happily coexist with conspecifics so long as food is abundant. They are a little wary of humans and typically want at most one or two extended interactions a day. This is for the best for everyone involved. Garbodor will need to be weaned onto specialized diets before being kept together. Otherwise there will be conflicts unless an extreme amount of garbage is left around them at all times.

Trubbish and garbodor are generally risky teammates for organic pokémon, especially curious or small ones at risk from their fumes. Most inorganic pokémon do not feed on petrochemicals and the other constituent components of trubbish. This makes them safe companions for even predatory mineral pokémon. Please note that garbodor feeding on low-grade radioactive waste may still be preyed upon by tyranitar. Attempts to set up joint feeding sites have a mixed record. Failure tends to occur when the tyranitar run out of higher-grade waste to eat and are still hungry. Phantom pokémon are also generally safe teammates for garbodor, but more curious or jealous ghost-types may compete with garbodor for access to toys.

Illness

Digestive problems are the main issue for the line. Rapidly switching diets, especially from one specialized diet to another, can result in lethargy, weight loss, vomiting, and irritability. Wild specimens are typically generalists that retain the ability to eat any meal they come across. This does limit them to eating only a moderate amount of any one item at a time. Dietary specialists lose the ability to process other items and must steadily build it back up. This can be a problem for garbodor that have fed on the same supply of waste for a month or more and suddenly must be given a new order from a different supplier.

Most digestive problems eventually go away on their own.

Evolution

Sufficiently large trubbish show an increased interest in collecting objects rather than eating them. They also tend to spend more time around garbodor watching how they behave. This is done from a safe distance. Direct confrontation, especially around food, is almost always avoided.

Trubbish begin to accumulate material to craft crude prosthetics or grow out their existing arms. This usually occurs over a period of three to four months. Garbodor may assist in this process, although only on their own terms and away from food supplies. The conclusion of construction is usually considered to be the formal demarcation line between the stages.

In Galar some garbodor are capable of gigantamaxing, a process similar to mega evolution in which ambient energies temporarily lead to an enormous increase in size and power. Most pokémon simply grow larger during this event. Some, like garbodor, can change shape as well. Gigantamax garbodor tend to form a gigantic pile of trash in a mound. Their body shape is closer to swalot or muk than their ordinary form. Some items in their collection are also blown up to extreme size, although the effect fades when the gigantamaxing ends.

Battle

Garbodor are extremely toxic to be around. It is especially dangerous to breathe the air around them for prolonged periods of time. Most professional arenas are large outdoor fields. Indoor stadiums where fumes would be more effective typically ban garbodor for logistical reasons. Most stadium shields are designed to block and elemental and radioactive energies, not ordinary air pollution.

Garbodor are relatively good counters for organic melee fighters. Their skin and body are highly elastic and the organs are under thick layers of blubber-like oil, plastic, or bacterial reserves. Their surface slime can be actively dangerous to touch.

Every other type of pokémon has a generally advantageous matchup against garbodor. Ranged attackers can hit them from outside the range of their fumes. Mineral and phantom pokémon rarely mind foul air. Most organic tanks and walls can outrun garbodor.

Garbodor are not necessarily useless outside of their ideal matchups. They can litter the field with trash and poisons that can slowly wear down future pokémon. Garbodor are also relatively resistant to elemental and physical attacks so they can set up many hazards before going down. Finally, attacks like sludge wave and gunk shot can expand their effective reach. They just do not hit hard enough to really threaten most opponents with a single gunk shot.

On the island challenge garbodor are incredibly difficult to raise, especially if their fumes are potent. Trainers who somehow do have a toxic garbodor will have good matchups against most totems. Kahunas and the Elite Four are more likely to have pokémon capable of simply overpowering a garbodor before they become a serious problem.

Trubbish are very similar to garbodor in their fighting style, or lack thereof. Their breath is as dangerous as their attacks and they are hard to take down for their size. However, they are less likely to have had the time to master hazard-setting moves. In the early parts of the island challenge they are better off getting into brawls with organic melee attackers they come across. These are thankfully very common on the teams of beginning trainers.

Acquisition

There are two primary colonies of feral trubbish in Alola. These are located in the abandoned areas of Po Town and Tapu Village. Capture is permitted for trainers on the island challenge but otherwise requires a permit. Feral specimens can occasionally be found near garbage disposal facilities. They tend to be attracted to extremely cluttered places. Alternatively, garbage disposal sites and other breeds are sometimes willing to sell their trubbish for a price. Unwanted trubbish and garbodor are usually sent to garbage disposal facilities rather than put into shelters for adoption.

Capture or purchase of trubbish or garbodor requires a Class IV license.

Breeding

Garbodor were initially very difficult to breed in captivity. Experiments showed that they only breed in the wild when there is a combination of high food and low population densities. This necessitates larger breeding facilities to supply pokémon to more concentrated disposal sites. By nature these are usually located in hollowed out industrial areas or extremely rural locales where land is cheap and local governments are more likely to tolerate foul odors.

Garbodor probably reproduce asexually. Soon-to-be-parents are more likely to socialize with conspecifics. These meetings seem to be about arms, collections, and other customized aspects of their bodies. Sometimes gifts or even fluids are swapped. This may be a form of sexual reproduction, although analysis has shown these fluids are simply a bacterial sludge rather than traditional gametes. Garbodor have been observed creating trubbish even without contact with conspecifics for years beforehand.

Garbodor usually scavenge thicker, malleable plastics alongside larger sheets such as garbage bags. These are used to form a rough shell for the new trubbish. The exterior is coated in slime while crude fluids and potentially organs are orally inserted into the new trubbish. The final details are still disputed. Garbodor never finish their new trubbish while being directly supervised and video feeds are inconclusive as to what the exact catalyst is that causes a new trubbish to awaken.

Trubbish follow their parent around for roughly five days before being led to a dump of other trubbish and abandoned. Parents show no more interest in their own children than in those of other garbodor.

Relatives

There is still debate as to whether garbodor should properly be classified as organic or mineral pokémon. For the time being most taxonomists classify them as mineral mokémon. Taxonomy of mineral pokémon is notoriously tricky. For now, garbodor are classified in the family Oleosus alongside other mineral pokémon whose bodies are primarily based on petrochemicals.

No other member of Oleosus was common in Unova at the time garbodor first appeared. The exact nature of their origins remains highly speculative.

 

[Persephone]

Cinccino (Minccino)
Ancilla australmontes

Overview

Alola’s ecosystem has successfully integrated many species without major disruption. A few have threatened it through overgrazing, predation, or physically altering the environment. Then there are the cinccino, which provoked a particularly odd reaction from Alola’s native species.

Cinccino have no obvious qualities that would make them disruptive. In fact, they were intentionally introduced in the 1930s as many ecologists believed they would be a natural fit. Wild cinccino are grazers native to Andean plateaus. They graze on plants in hard-to-reach places that ungulates can’t or won’t bother to reach.

There are some plants on Hokulani and even Lanakila. There are not many grazers on either mountain. Lanakila’s food web is rooted in the many bats that nest in the mountain’s caves and crevasses during the day before going to sea level to forage at night. Drampa, the one large herbivore, have never been common. Dragons are not easy prey, but in lean times a mountain full of ice-type predators are willing to take the gamble.

Cinccino, either wild stock or the domesticated variant, should have integrated well into the environment while providing more food for predators like sneasel and skarmory.

The plan worked a little too well. The ninetales on Lanakila began to preferentially prey on cinccino to the exclusion of almost everything else. They even discovered the Hokulani and Blush Mountain populations and began crossing the Haina Valley to hunt. This led to territorial disputes with resident predators like houndoom, flygon, pangoro, and skarmory.

Tapu Bulu was annoyed by the fighting so close to his home and put an end to it. The ninetales ceased their raids outside of the Lanakila area. The cinccino population around Lanakila has long-since disappeared due to predation. Blush Mountain proved a little too warm for the rodents to thrive. They are still locally abundant around Mount Hokulani and have integrated into the ecosystem well.

Unfortunately, ninetales have not shown the same appetite for the invasive rodents at the base of their mountain.

Cinccino are anxious and prone to overheating. Trainers who can work around these drawbacks often find them to be soft, sociable pokémon that adjust relatively well to clean human homes. They are also fairly cheap to feed as far as pokémon go. Many parents even start teaching their children about pokémon care with a minccino. Please be advised that they are not particularly well-suited for young children due to their anxiety and insistence on clean environments.

Physiology

Both stages are classified as pure normal-types. The ruling is not disputed.

Minccino are small rodent pokémon with incredibly dense grey fur. They can have over 20,000 follicles per square inch of skin. The density of their fur makes it difficult for anything to penetrate, including parasites and even air. This makes their fur slow to dry in the event that it does get wet. The exception is their tail, which has longer, thinner fur than the body.

Both stages possess large ears that help warn them of potential predators and receive calls from other members of the herds foraging at a distance. They possess keen night vision that helps them forage in the cooler weather after sundown. This is especially useful in the warmer climate cinccino have found themselves in.

Older minccino have tufts of white fur at the tips of their ears and tail. Cinccino have grown far more white fur. Cinccino have two long strands of white fur that sprout from the back of their head. Each strand is longer than the pokémon itself. These are called scarves based off of cincinno’ habit of wrapping them around their neck or body for warmth and convenience.

The exact purpose of a cinccino’s scarves is disputed. They are more prominent in domesticated individuals than wild individuals, but not to the extent one might expect. Even wild cinccino have scarves longer than their body. It provides some utility for keeping warm. However, cinccino’s coat is already thick enough that this is only an issue on the coldest of nights.

The leading theory is that cinccino’s scarves are a defensive measure. Minccino’s fur is already oily to facilitate dust baths. Cinccino’s scarves are far more so. Cinccino produce a special oil, known colloquially as mountain oil or montanum, from glands at the base of the scraves. The oil is a strong lubricant that lets them easily slip out of the grip of predators that try to bite the scarves. It even dampens elemental energy that strikes it. The scarves can be used to sled down rocky surfaces if held at the right angle.

This does not entirely explain why cinccino have scarves for montanum rather than just coating their entire body in it. Some researchers have suggested it would make them far too slippery and increase the risk of falls. It may also be too energy intensive to create montanum for an entire body. This point is undermined by the sheer volume of the scarves. Another theory holds that the scarves are a result of sexual selection. There are a few studies that suggest longer scarf length is attractive to prospective mates.

Cinccino reach heights of fifteen inches and can weigh up to six pounds. Captive lifespans are typically around thirty years. Wild lifespans are not well documented.

Behavior

Minccino are typically found in herds of ten to one hundred individuals. They prefer to live on rocky cliff faces with small caves or other sheltered areas to retreat to. Minccino are skilled climbers that use their agility and vertical movement speed to escape from predators. The herd rarely ventures far from their resting place. They are typically nocturnal.

On clear nights, the minccino herd will emerge and spill into nearby plains. They graze on lichens, grasses, shrubs, flowers, and any other vegetation that can be found above the tree line. They may also be seen in cloud forests on rare occasion.

Members of the herd alternate between foraging on the ground and standing sentry on tall rocks or similar vantage points. A sentry that sees a predator will make several high squeaks to alert the herd to take shelter. The noises and the response they garner vary with the exact predator seen. Birds are typically avoided by simply finding a visual barrier with the skies. Foxes and felines require rushing towards deep, narrow caves that they cannot be pursued into. Larger predators can usually be avoided by climbing.

Electabuzz and raticate are minccino’s primary predators on Mt. Hokulani. More uncommon predators include noctowl and stray persian. Gumshoos and skarmory will hunt minccino that come out during the day.

Minccino strongly prefer the eastern face of Mt. Hokulani. Rainfall leads to a risk of mold growing on their coat. This is an issue during the wet season on the western face. The eastern face is considerably dryer, although minccino still often need to forage during clear days in the wet season to ensure they get enough food.

Cinccino typically live in pairs or trios. Relatively few predators both with them. Their keen senses can detect ambushes, their high speed and agility let them escape foreseen attacks, and even getting a cinccino into a close-quarters fight comes with no guarantee of victory. Vulpix or ninetales that do make their way to Mt. Hokulani may still attack them. There is some evidence of a cultural memory among the ninetales as newly captive vulpix will preferentially target minccino and their evolution in a way that captive-born specimens usually will not. Scientists are unsure whether this stems from a few frozen cinccino kept on Mt. Lanakila to educate kits, encounters with occasional escapees onto the mountain, or, potentially, a crude form of oral tradition.

All stages are somewhat obsessive groomers and cleaners. Their living quarters are kept free of any and all dirt or debris. Minccino spend an inordinate amount of time grooming their fur. This is largely to keep anything from getting trapped in the fur and rotting there. It is common for minccino to greet conspecifics by grooming them.

Both stages prefer to use their tails as impromptu brooms for cleaning their living spaces. The tails can be safely cleaned in water, although the species is very adamant about doing so downstream from their usual drinking area.

Husbandry

Cinccino should have unlimited access to hay or other grasses when possible. Rodent- or lagomorph-blend pellets can be used to supplement their diet. Water for drinking should also be constantly available. Cinccino are quite capable of learning how to operate faucets to produce water for tail-cleaning. Towels for their use should be kept near their preferred faucet.

Cinccino prefer to have multiple nest boxes per individual. The boxes should be placed at a range of elevations with ways to reach them. Cinccino are capable of climbing ladders and comfortably making vertical leaps of about five feet.

The trickiest part of raising a cinccino for many trainers is their obsession with cleanliness. This does not stop at maintaining their nest boxes and fur. Cinccino will clean the entire environment they have access to and grow resentful of trainers who do not seem to care about disorder. The most consistent touch most trainers will get with a cinccino is the pokémon wiping dust or dirt off of their clothing before immediately bounding away.

Cinccino’s spaces must be kept at or beneath seventy degrees Fahrenheit with a low humidity. This can be difficult and expensive in Alola and makes outdoor care effectively impossible. They detest rain and should generally be kept in their pokéball when traveling outdoors in damp weather. The damp, warm climate of Alola can make it generally difficult to travel with the species during half the day and half the year.

Another problem with cinccino care is their activity levels. Cinccino spend most of their days napping. At night they are incredibly active for a few hours before once more falling asleep. Even with an exercise wheel, climbing set, and other toys, cinccino still usually require about two hours of play in the evenings before they settle down. This can be done with other pokémon. Even then, it still pushes the endurance of many trainers at a time when they are winding down for the day.

Cinccino are social, but not in a way most trainers appreciate from fluffy pokémon. They prefer to sleep in enclosed spaces rather than with their trainer. While awake, they are far too active to simply sit on a lap for an extended period of time. They instead socialize through play. Touch for anything other than grooming is generally disliked.

Good cinccino teammates are active, tidy, and either nocturnal or crepuscular. Minccino dislike most predators and grow anxious around them. Cinccino tend to mind less, although they may still be nervous for a brief period after introduction. Both stages generally struggle with anxiety. Minccino also grow lonely unless on a team with other rodents or, ideally, conspecifics. Most minccino trainers keep them alongside other minccino or pokémon such as pikachu or togedemaru.

Illness

Cinccino are fairly durable given their quick recovery times from fractures and montanum in their fur. Minccino are a little more vulnerable, especially to leg fractures that can make standard activities such as sitting and walking difficult.

The primary vulnerability of the line lie in their brains. Convulsions for stress or poor diet are relatively common in the species. These can be triggered through particularly stressful battles, poor living conditions, or even something as simple as seeing another minccino eating before they have been given food. Most convulsions are not fatal or even particularly dangerous in and of themselves, but they can be when combined with the specie’s affinity for high-up shelters amid rocky environments. Supplements of Vitamin B and calcium can reduce the risk of convulsions.

Cinccino kept in unusually warm or moist environments are prone to respiratory infections with symptoms such as sneezing, labored breathing, and apathy. Fixing environmental conditions usually resolves the problem. If a minccino must be isolated for quarantine, it is a good idea to keep mirrors in the quarantine space while pumping in the sounds of conspecifics through a speaker.

Stress reactions include excessive grooming and fur-chewing. This can be difficult for many caregivers to distinguish from minccino’s ordinary grooming behaviors. Stress responses are often triggered by a change in group dynamics, particularly regarding the loss of a mate.

Evolution

Most minccino, in both the wild and captivity, do not evolve.

The impetus for evolution in the wild is poorly understood. In captivity, the easiest way to trigger evolution is prolonged exposure to a shining stone. This triggers a flash evolution.

There are natural deposits of shining stones throughout the Andes. However, it is uncommon on Mt. Hokulani. Seemingly natural cinccino have been observed there all the same. Reactions of minccino to different sorts of elementally charged stones, such as thunder stones and some meteorites, is being studied in an attempt to better explain this phenomenon.

Battle

Cinccino, like most small rodents, should be entirely beneath the notice of competitive pokémon battling. It is not, although it has never quite managed to escape the margins. The combination of high speed, agility, montanum, and one final trick give cinccino a small niche. Cinccino, for reasons that are presently not well understood, is very efficient at breaking bursts of elemental energy into smaller bursts. This can let them channel the equivalent energy of a giga impact into a barrage of fury swipes. Each individual hit is far weaker than a very large one, but the cumulative barrage hits far harder than it should. This also works for other moves such as tail slap, seed bomb, and rock blast. While this can let cinccino quickly overwhelm frailer pokémon, the relative weakness of individual hits means that cinccino struggle against heavily armored foes. They can also be brought low by area of effect or homing attacks that are nearly impossible to dodge.

The one consistent niche that cinccino have found in competitive play is that of a cleaner or hyper offense check on quickstall teams. Against more defensive teams, cinccino can usually clean up the remains after their other teammates have weakened or knocked out traditional counters such as ghost-types and heavily armored mineral pokémon. Hyper offensive teams, which rely on fast and frail attackers, can be overwhelmed in turn by another fast, frail attacker that specializes in dodging or deflecting hits.

Outside of this one niche, cinccino have seen very little usage at the upper echelons of competitive play. Their relative power and ease of access makes them somewhat common among intermediate trainers.

On the island challenge, cinccino work best when they quickly overwhelm a foe with a barrage of attacks. They are agile, but they can struggle to dodge attacks from multiple opponents at once. This makes them useful as leads that take down one frailer opponent before going down themselves or as cleaners against an unarmored or clumsy opponent.

Minccino lack the montanum of their evolved form. This makes them somewhat slower and significantly frailer. They are, however, about as strong. This makes them well equipped for rushing down and bringing down single opponents before falling. They will not do well at the keep-away games that cinccino often play.

Acquisition

Domestic cinccino are relatively common in higher end pet stores, although these are usually not bred or trained for battle. These problems can be averted by purchasing from breeders, but their prices tend to be substantially higher.

Wild form minccino can be found on and around Mt. Hokulani. On cool nights they may even reach the outskirts of Malie City. Unmated specimens are generally more amenable to going with trainers than mated ones. Unfortunately, it can be rather difficult to distinguish paired and unpaired pokémon.

Cinccino capture is currently prohibited to allow for better research into the catalyst for wild evolutions.

Minccino can be captured with a Class III license. Both stages can be purchased or adopted with a Class III license.

Breeding

As with most rodents, it is harder to stop minccino from breeding than to facilitate it. Fully grown specimens of both stages are capable of breeding. Breeding outside of the species is less common than in other rodents. Compulsive grooming behaviors may play a role in this selectivity. Cinccino are also reluctant to mate with minccino, although they will do it when deprived of other options.

Minccino and cinccino engage in loose pair bonding. They sometimes mate for life, but this is not always the case. Polyamory, with and without the partner’s apparent knowledge, has been observed in both the wild and captivity. Both stages look after the offspring until they are capable of living outside the den at roughly ten weeks of age. At this point they slowly begin to assume the duties of a minccino. Cinccino-born minccino are typically dropped off at the nearest minccino herd a week or two after leaving the nest. In exchange, the herd generally receives some form of increased protection.

Relatives

There are somewhere between one and three species or subspecies of cinccino, depending on who is consulted. Cinccino once had a fairly continuous range across the central and southern Andes. There has been human exploitation for centuries, although farming is a relatively new innovation. The sapa inca of Tawantinsuyu engaged in ritualized hunts with cinccino to obtain fur and montanum. It was illegal for a commoner to kill a cinccino. While it was technically legal for a noble to do so, actively wearing a white cinccino fur coat was considered to be an act of treason. Grey minccino fur was generally acceptable among the nobility.

The breakup of Tawantinsuyu in 1922 coincided with an attempt to domesticate cinccino among European scientists. The poorer of the successor states to Tawantinsuyu were all too happy to provide live or dead specimens as the price of fur and montanum rose on international markets. Today they are only common in two pockets of wild cinccino remaining in the Andes, one in the relatively stable region of Wallmapu and one in the United People’s Republic of the Andes. There is some dispute as to whether these two populations should be considered separate species or subspecies. There are slight morphological differences between the two populations and they are no longer connected in the wild. These are Ancilla australmontes and A. sapainca, A. a. sapainca and A. a. australmontes. There is further debate as to whether domesticated cinccino are sufficiently different from southern cinccino to warrant their own species or subspecies, A. taylorii or A. a. taylorii.

Cinccino are distant relatives of the cavies.

 

[Persephone]

Forretress (Pineco)
Tineabombae exfoliis

Overview

Generally speaking, blowing yourself up is not a good strategy for survival. Some pokémon have made it work.

Quickly channeling enormous amounts of elemental energy can result in the wielder losing control and an unfocused blast detonating nearby. This is often the strongest attack the pokémon can muster, but its lack of focus means that it will almost assuredly take the user out of the fight as well. Without veterinary medicine, complications from explosion-style attacks can easily be fatal.

Some pokémon adjust their anatomy to make these detonations more survivable. A golem is sturdy enough that they will likely be more exhausted than injured after using explosion. Many mineral pokémon have vent systems designed to focus explosive attacks towards opponents and away from vital areas. Others make their blasts more dangerous. Weezing and metagross are prone to mixing in toxic fumes and radioactive bursts, respectively.

Forretress are reasonably likely to survive using self-destruct or explosion without veterinary medicine, although it is still strongly recommended. Pineco are not. They make frequent use of it, anyways.

Some species have evolved to occasionally sacrifice the health or even lives of individuals to make would-be predators extremely wary of attacking them. Pineco have a tendency to explode at any provocation, usually taking their attacker with them. Extreme caution is recommended in the forests they call home.

Daring bug-trainers and stall specialists may find pineco and forretress to be worth the trouble. Most other trainers are understandably wary of the line.

Physiology

Pineco are classified as pure bug-types. Forretress are classified as dual bug- and steel-types. Neither ruling is controversial.

Pineco are technically larval moths, although females lack a distinct imago stage. Their bodies are coated in crude chitinous plates with thin spines extending from them. Pineco have a tendency to collect bark, leaves, pinecones, and anything other makeshift armor they can find. This material is then bound to the spines with elementally-infused silk. The new armor is referred to as a ‘case.’ Pineco’s actual body is rarely visible beyond the eyes and mouth.

Forretress rarely move their core body outside of its solid case. The case is surrounded by thick plates of armor taken from the environment and carefully ‘glued’ to the case with specialized silk. This armor is preferentially taken from arthropods such as scizor and golisopod. They will also take bone and other materials they find in the environment.

Forretress have four appendages spaced between the upper and lower plates of their armor. All of these appendages contain spinnerets for the creation of silk, siphons for absorbing food or water, and a third valve for the release of other substances produced inside the case. These include a quick-hardening resin, poisonous or infected barbs, and acids and enzymes for breaking down prey before it is eaten via siphon.

Pineco are far more capable of moving and exposing their mouthparts and do not need to eat via siphon like like forretress. The evolved form has essentially no ability to move parts kept inside the case outside of it. All transfers of material must happen through the appendages. The exact nature of the pokémon within the case varies throughout a forretress’s life. Young specimens still have an elongated body with legs and clear segments. Older forretress steadily lose the ability to move the inner body and become more spherical as organs grow in where there is space.

Forretress have a specialized chamber for producing explosive moves. The chamber and surrounding case are structured in such a way that damage to the pokémon itself is mostly superficial. The blast creates shrapnel out of the relatively frail outer case and can even be ‘aimed’ in a specific direction. Pineco lack specialized organs for withstanding explosive attacks. Such moves usually destroy their case and risk serious damage to the pokémon underneath.

Adult pineco are typically eighteen inches long. Forretress typically have a case that is roughly three feet across. Weights for both vary widely depending on the case’s composition. Captive lifespans are around four years. Wild lifespans are not well understood.

Behavior

Pineco prefer to live in dense, coniferous forests. They primarily feed on leaves, shoots, and other food that moves even slower than they do. Pineco can achieve vertical movement through manipulation of a silk line, but horizontal movement is difficult without damaging the case.

Despite this, pineco are still quite capable of hunting. They produce a sweet smell from a gland on their back that can lure in pollinators such as combee. When they get close enough, pineco spit out a quick-drying resin that may cause their target’s wings to lock-up. Whatever pineco is closest will lower themselves to the ground to eat the meal.

Pineco’s primary means of defense is exploding, killing or injuring themselves. On an individual level, this is a terrible survival strategy. The very real threat of an explosion means that few predators bother to threaten pineco. Even large animals that don’t eat pineco usually avoid their homes. Some plant species prone to being overgrazed by hoofstock are abundant around squads of pineco as all large animals are kept at bay.

Forretress use their multiple spinnerets to build large web structures they can use to move in three dimensions. This makes them relatively fast for armored, nearly limbless insects. Some specimens have been reported moving at speeds approaching half a mile per hour.

While forretress may not be able to chase down prey, they still have means of hunting. The first is spines. Forretress are fond of scattering spikes, toxic spikes, and even stealth rocks in the leaf litter around and beneath them. This can injure and disorient some foes. The tonal blow is usually struck by cutting a line and falling directly onto their prey from above, killing them with that weight of their case. The prey is then partially dissolved and slowly consumed via siphon. Forretress are rarely successful in their hunts and have been observed to go months between feedings.

Aside from scavenging for food or new additions to the case, both stages do very little. Pineco spend most of their time resting on coniferous trees. Forretress are usually on the ground while digesting or resting. They haul themselves higher in the air when they intend to hunt. Forretress are less prone to exploding than pineco but will still do so if startled or threatened.

Husbandry

Pineco are tolerant of a fairly wide range of temperatures, from near-freezing to around ninety degrees Fahrenheit. They appreciate having a cool, shaded environment with few disturbances. Leafy greens should make up the core of their diet with occasional supplements of mealworms. They may also prey upon fruit flies or other indoor insects. Pineco should be supplied with a small, shallow basin of water to drink from.

Pineco require enrichment in the form of a pole or other tall object to attach their silk lines to and components for their cask. Pinecones, cardboard, ceramics, chiton, brick fragments, and other debris of natural and industrial origins can be fashioned into a cask. The most aesthetically pleasing casks tend to be made of natural materials, particularly chiton and bark.

Pineco do relatively little. They prefer to stay anchored in a high position while occasionally lowering themselves to eat or gather materials. A wastepan can be placed beneath them to collect droppings. Socialization is not recommended as it may provoke them into exploding.

Forretress are slightly harder to keep, but not by much. They need a high-protein diet that is easy to siphon. Animal or pokémon blood is an expensive but efficient way of meeting this need. The forretress will see little need to pump acid onto the food and damage the container. Slurries made with peanut butter, meat, and insectivore mixes are generally cheaper but risk corrosion of feeding containers and, potentially, surrounding materials.

Forretress require multiple, very well-anchored poles to attach themselves to. A layer of detritus on the floor of the habitat makes them feel more comfortable. The detritus must be frequently changed to prevent a buildup of waste products. Please note that forretress instinctively scatter sharp objects into their environment. Caution must be taken when walking in a forretress’s enclosure or changing detritus. The pokémon should also be withdrawn before the enclosure is entered to prevent them from trying to fall onto their trainer’s head. Forretress only require about fifteen square feet of space, although many trainers provide more.

Ideally, the pokémon’s enclosure should be surrounded by thick walls with nothing valuable on the other side. This is not feasible for every trainer. Those who opt out of bomb-proof enclosures are often faced with high insurance premiums.

Illness

Veterinary medicine for both pineco and forretress is essentially limited to helping them recover from explosions. This is usually possible for pineco with prompt treatment and actually fairly easy for forretress. Actual research into treating diseases for pineco is lacking. It is essentially non-existent for forretress. The main options are waiting to see if the problem goes away on its own or euthanizing the pokémon before it literally explodes. Quarantine periods are very important for large-scale insect breeders as a result.

Evolution

It is perfectly natural for pineco to go their whole lives without evolving. Evolution only occurs when they have access to enough scrap metal to form a metallic cask. This was extremely rare outside the territories of pokémon like scizor and durant. Evolution is considerably more common today, especially in areas frequented by humans.

Captive pineco that have reached an adult size can evolve by being given plates of metal. Durant armor and thin scraps work best. The pineco will fashion itself a new cask and then undergo metamorphosis inside of it. The formal demarcation line is the emergence of siphons.

There is some debate as to whether the male imago should qualify as its own form. Male pineco and forretress undergo one more metamorphosis to become a fairly standard moth with no armor or even mouthparts. They find females, inseminate them, and die. Lifespans are best measured in days, if not hours. Whether this is a breeding anomaly or a proper evolution matters to taxonomists, breeders, and entomologists, but pineco’s imago is of little concern to anyone else.

Battle

Pineco and forretress are relatively durable, can learn a multitude of hazard setting moves, and can ultimately damage opponents who try to set up on them by exploding. This is the extent of what the average specimen can do. It is still effective enough to give forretress a niche on hard stall teams.

Forretress are extremely vulnerable to fire-type moves, taunt, pokémon capable of removing their field hazards, and ghosts that are immune to their explosions. They can coat the battlefield in nasty hazards the enemy must navigate around. A skilled opponent can also easily neutralize them.

Forretress are not so durable that they can necessarily endlessly wall physical threats like machamp. Even if they can, their only viable offensive option involves sacrificing themselves. Theoretically, forretress can be used as an emergency check that explodes and stops an opposing sweeper. In practice their explosion is so predictable that it can often be played around.

Training pineco and forretress to set up hazards instead of immediately exploding in battle is a tedious and occasionally dangerous process. Trainers who manage to do so, or at least train their pokémon to explode in the direction of the right target, have found some success on the island challenge. Losing a single pokémon to deal serious damage to a totem is often a worthwhile trade.

Acquisition

Pineco were introduced into the forests at the base of Mt. Hokulani in 1971. Environmental activists believed the release would make it difficult to set up timber operations in the area. They were correct. At least four deaths can be attributed to their actions. Most were children.

Removing the pineco wholesale would be a difficult enterprise and the native pokémon have already adapted to their presence. The Department of Natural Resources has shifted to posting signage warning of resident pineco and preventing their spread into nearby forests. Releasing a pineco or forretress into the wild is strictly prohibited.

Pineco can be found in the wild on and around Route 10. They can be captured with a Class IV license. Trainers seeking to do so should be exceedingly careful. Capturing one pineco does not prevent nearby specimens from exploding. Wild forretress are essentially absent from Route 10 due to the lack of natural metal and careful control of trash in the area.

Forretress and pineco can also be adopted or captured with a Class IV license. A few private breeders specializing in relatively docile pineco and forretress exist. These specimens are less prone to exploding when disturbed.

Breeding

Male pineco and forretress tend to undergo their final metamorphosis in their third or fourth spring. They emerge on clear nights and visit as many females as they can to inseminate them. This is the only thing they are capable of doing before death.

Females lay hundreds of tiny eggs inside of their cask. Juveniles emerge roughly three weeks later. They spend a few weeks inside the cask eating plant matter and food their mother deposits. They are then forced out to go and form their own casks. Adults have no further parental instinct and show no particular favor to their own offspring.

Male forretress have been crossed with wormadam in the past. They seem unsure how to fertilize most other lepidopterans. Females will accept sperm from most moth and butterfly pokémon, although only a few mixed will create viable offspring.

Captive breeding requires patience and a grove with at least one elderly male and multiple females. Mothers have few objections to their offspring being rounded up and captured after they emerge.

Relatives

Wormadam and mothim are the closest living relatives of forretress. They are distantly related to more conventional moths and butterflies.

No subspecies of forretress are currently recognized.

 

[Persephone]

Skarmory
Stymphalia alumen

Overview

There are a variety of skarmory species across the world, all known for their metal bodies. The gilded skarmory of South America had feathers laden with silver and gold. They were still not the most valuable of their kin.

Stymphalia alumen is commonly known as the greater skarmory, eastern skarmory, aluminum skarmory, or magnificent skarmory. It will be referred to simply as ‘skarmory’ in this article except when distinguishing it from other skarmory species. They are native to the Eurasian steppe. For a time, they were considered the most valuable birds on the planet and hunted to the brink of extinction.

What makes a metal valuable? Gold and silver have industrial uses, but this is not why they have been treasured throughout human history. Their mix of beauty and rarity has given them this status. Aluminum may lack the same luster, but it was one of the rarest metals on the planet until scarcely over a century ago. There are vanishingly few deposits of usably pure aluminum. By far the easiest way to obtain it was through hunting the western or eastern skarmory. The aluminum from the former was barely usable. This made the latter prized birds with feathers more valuable than gold or platinum. They were considered sacred birds by the peoples of the steppe. Ceremonial swords and jewelry crafted from aluminum were reserved for the greatest of leaders and warriors. Gifts of skarmory pairs were the highest diplomatic honor they could bestow.

The Russian empire conquered most of the steppe and hunted the skarmory nearly to extinction to sell their feathers and raise funds for the imperial war machine. Most of the birds today are descended from pairs gifted to or stolen by nations such as Korea, China, Poland, the United States, and India.

It is far cheaper now to use industrial processes to synthesize usable aluminum rather than taking it from the feathers of skarmory. This has allowed the population to rebound across Eurasia and around the world.

Skarmory are proud, aggressive birds that are not recommended for novice birdkeepers. Many more experienced flying-type specialists find them to be beautiful, imposing, and surprisingly curious creatures that can play a pivotal role in battles.

Physiology

Skarmory are classified as dual steel- and flying-types. ‘Steel’ is something of a misnomer as skarmory are poor ferrokinetics, but they are masters at fine manipulation of metallic elemental energy and integrate metal into their body as armor and weapons. Skarmory can fly and are reasonably effective aerokinetics. No other typing is particularly suitable for the line.

Skarmory are large birds that typically walk on the ground with their relatively long legs. Each foot contains three sharp claws. Skarmory usually keep their torso parallel to the ground. Their neck is about a third of their body length. It is coated in a metallic mesh that provides protection and flexibility. Skarmory have yellow sclera and black irises. It is unclear what the purpose of the sclera color is. The edge of skarmory’s lower bill is serrated. While not true teeth, these ridges serve many of the same purposes. The upper bill is slightly hooked to better tear into their prey. Skarmory have a large metallic crest at the back of their head that is fused to the main armored headplate containing the upper bill.

Most of skarmory’s body is coated in plates of aluminum-based armor. This is unusual among steel-types. The armor is sturdy enough to protect the birds from most hits and let them live among thorny plants without fear. It is also light enough to let them fly. Skarmory have one metal-coated feather on each wing that can act as a weapon or shield the other flight feathers from damage. The rest of the feathers on their wing are red and fairly typical of a bird. Their tail plume appears to be metallic from a distance. It is also composed of fairly typical, if oddly shaped, feathers.

Skarmory’s weight and size still make them awkward fliers. They are far more comfortable on the ground. Take-off typically requires a long running start or a dive off of a cliff. The average wild skarmory only flies to escape predators they cannot otherwise fight or outrun. They may also migrate via flight. Skarmory are better at soaring than short-distance flights. Once they get airborne they may fly for hundreds of miles at a time. Skarmory are tolerant of a wide range of temperatures and rarely migrate seasonally. They typically migrate in response to new predators or a lack of prey.

Skarmory synthesize aluminum from bauxite in an internal organ known as an alum pouch. The process requires a great deal of fine control over metallic energy and produces extremely toxic waste. Skarmory urine and feces are potent herbicides. Forging durable metal takes a great deal of time, energy, and bauxite. For the first few years of their life, young skarmory instead forge temporary metal plates that corrode and crack after only a few months. These are sufficient to protect them as they grow. Periods of rapid growth occur between rounds of plate molting.

Skarmory can reach heights of seven feet, wingspans of eighteen feet, and weights of over two hundred pounds. Wild lifespans are typically between thirty and fifty years. Captive specimens can live for over seventy.

Behavior

Skarmory typically nest among thorny plants or other brush. The plants cannot scratch them through their armor, but they still disturb would-be predators. Skarmory are omnivores that eat whatever they can find in the relatively barren areas they naturally inhabit. Their armor, weight, and claws make them ideally suited for killing snakes. They will also kill any small to mid-size mammal or reptile they can ambush or outrun. Skarmory have a top running speed of twenty miles per hour and can sustain this speed for up to a half hour. They will only do so for extraordinarily large prey.

Skarmory are also happy to flush out bug-types hiding in the foliage, raid ground-based nests of other birds, and steal kills from smaller predators. While most of their diet consists of some form of meat, skarmory are also capable of using their beak to eat hard-shelled fruits and nuts. They are also known to peck trees and drink their gum.

Skarmory’s armor and ferocity means that adults have few predators. Particularly dedicated pack hunters have been seen hunting adults. These are usually injured or elderly specimens. Metallic lithovores such as aggron can hunt nesting skarmory that are reluctant to run. Several dragons hunt skarmory. This is usually only done for sport or by truly desperate specimens. Skarmory meat is relatively difficult to access and their alum pouch is extremely poisonous.

Juveniles are preyed upon by arcanine and the other large predators of the steppe.

Skarmory are not typically regarded as social birds. Recent studies have shown that they do form loose associations with local specimens and may even demonstrate altruistic behaviors on rare occasion. Most species keep their distance from the birds as they are territorial and aggressive.

Clashes between greater skarmory and northern corviknight are well publicized. They were historically rare as their native ranges only overlapped in parts of the Carpathian Mountains. The spread of corviknight and introductions of skarmory have brought them into greater contact and conflict. Corviknight are usually the instigators. They only rarely eat slain birds. The exact purpose of these disputes is unclear.

Husbandry

Skarmory are large, carnivorous birds with an odd dietary component. This makes them reasonably difficult to deal with. They are also not raptors, so much of the common advice on predatory bird husbandry will not be effective for skarmory.

About 80% of skarmory’s diet should consist of meat. This can include whole or partial carcasses, high-protein food pellets, and even insectivore mixes. The exact dietary preferences will vary slightly between skarmory. Some will refuse to touch food pellets. Others will come to crave them. The remaining 20% of the pokémon’s diet should consist of tubers, grains, fruits, seeds, vegetables, or leafy greens. Gum Arabic is a beloved treat that can be provided as a reward every few days.

Skarmory also require bauxite. The exact amount of daily supplements require range from an ounce or so for a mature bird that rarely battles to five or six ounces in a molting bird. Bauxite is cheap in bulk but not always easy to obtain in relatively small amounts. Alola does not produce aluminum. However, there are a few small bauxite mines. Skarmory trainers often make direct purchase agreements with the mines.

Standing bodies of water are often scarce in skarmory habitat. This rarity, combined with their high density, makes them avoid water whenever possible. They still need to bathe. Sandpits, dirt piles, or other dustbathing opportunities are necessary on at least a weekly basis. Skarmory also appreciate sunbathing during the day in cooler weather.

Wild skarmory do not defecate in their preferred nesting sites. This makes them relatively easy to housebreak. Disposing of their waste is far more difficult. Skarmory urine and feces are considered hazardous materials. These should be specially bagged rather than left on the trail. Stationary trainers should contact the local government to discuss waste disposal procedures.

Skarmory are relatively large and often aggressive. They need territory, ideally open fields or scrubland, to explore. Most skarmory appreciate walking alongside their trainer on relatively open trails. Caves and dense forests make them uncomfortable. Most skarmory do not require frequent opportunities to fly. Good enrichment items include puzzles and toys with pieces large or small enough that they do not constitute a choking hazard. Skarmory are often very fond of ripping apart plushies, with or without food in the center. They will often practice hunting by stalking and then leaping at the unmoving, defenseless target before kicking it repeatedly. Rubber hoses are also good training targets, but they should be wider than the bird’s throat to ensure they are not swallowed whole. Skarmory will typically notice their mistake after tasting the rubber while trying to break the ‘snake’ apart.

Skarmory that are allowed inside should be kept away from exposed cables. They are prone to mistaking them for snakes and kicking them until the wiring is exposed. This can shock them and make them more aggressive while in an enclosed space.

Skarmory are not good teammates to anything small enough to be prey. Generally, a pokémon has to be at least half their size or fully capable of overpowering the skarmory to avoid aggression. This applies only to inorganic pokémon. Skarmory do not hunt for their metal so inorganic pokémon are usually ignored. There can also be aggression with larger terrestrial predators. For safety’s sake, they should be fed separately. Skarmory should be fed bauxite supplements away from the rest of the team to prevent accidental ingestion.

Illness

Skarmory are well-armored and naturally hardy birds. Health problems are rare, but not nonexistent. Changes in appetite or activity are usually the first signs of problems. Vomiting is usually not a cause for concern. Wild skarmory naturally produce ‘pellets’ made of fur, bone, and other indigestible material that are often discharged through the throat. These are only signs of illness if they are bloody or coated in mucous.

Most diseases are treatable if quickly caught. Skarmory dislike taking pills. Thankfully, they are not particularly intelligent and can usually be tricked by sticking the pills inside of a food item such as a whole fish.

Younger skarmory often develop brittle, discolored feathers and armor prior to molting. Again, this is a perfectly normal part of their life process. The bird is simply not putting new metal or elemental energy into the feathers as they prepare to grow a new set. Discoloration or brittleness can represent a serious health problem in mature birds that must be treated immediately. This is usually a sign of bauxite deficiency, extreme stress, damage to the alum pouch, or some sort of curse or other elemental issue.

Evolution

Skarmory do not have any recognized evolutionary stages. Immature skarmory are morphologically similar to adult skarmory, just without a permanent set of armor or metallic feathers.

Battle

Great skarmory are the only species in the genus that sees regular usage. While skarmory are not quite as durable as the armored inorganic pokémon, they are far more mobile than an aggron or gigalith. Their armor is quite capable of taking light hits and they are mobile enough to outmaneuver the giant, telegraphed strikes of the average wallbreaker. Skarmory can use this power and agility to set up hazards such as spikes and stealth rock across the field or get rid of enemy hazards with defog. They can use taunt to prevent opponents from setting up on them.

Skarmory’s core problems are that they cannot actually really punish opponents beyond setting up support for their team. Skarmory’s kicks and pecks can harm some offensive pokémon, but they will do very little to even modestly armored opponents. They are also not fast enough to reliably tag very speedy opponents. This leaves them unable to hit many offensive pokémon and unable to seriously harm many defensive ones.

Unfortunately for skarmory, corviknight have advantages in power, bulk, intelligence, and aerial mobility in exchange for ground speed and armor strength. This has made them far more popular than skarmory on the competitive circuits. Only Eurasian trainers and full stall teams regularly run skarmory. They fare far better in national or regional leagues where corviknight are absent.

Thankfully, Alola is one such league. Even juvenile skarmory are tough enough to shrug off most physical hits until the middle of the island challenge. Adults have little to fear from blunt force until the very end. Elemental attacks that partially bypass their armor can still hit them hard. This is especially true for electrical moves. Still, skarmory’s ability to set up on or chip away at most physical attackers makes them invaluable when used correctly. Many trainers use them as the win condition of a trial after the rest of the team takes out potential threats to the steel-type. They also have a favorable type matchup into every kahuna.

Acquisition

Skarmory were introduced onto Poni Island in an attempt to control invasive snakes. The native snake population dramatically decreased as a result. Afterwards, skarmory mostly turned to preying upon invasive small mammals such as yungoos and rattata. The program was so successful that they were introduced onto Ula’Ula as well. Today they are most often found in the arid regions of Poni Island and the Route 10 area. The Alolan skarmory population is seen as a potential source of specimens for reintroduction programs and enjoys some protections. There are annual capture quotas. Capture licenses must be applied for with the DNR in advance.

Adoption and purchase opportunities for skarmory are occasionally available. Most adoptable birds are injured wild specimens in need of rehabilitation. Private skarmory breeders are relatively rare with most formal breeding program occurring in zoos and aviaries. Skarmory may be obtained with a Class III license.

Breeding

Wild skarmory engage in lekking. Males gather together to perform dances and display their vibrant red breeding plumage to females. A female may show interest in a male, leading to a pair dance. This can quickly lead to copulation. Males often spend several minutes pecking the female’s head. This is followed by a few seconds of coitus. Males play no further role in childrearing.

Females often dig nests in a shallow scrape in the ground. They occasionally steal another ground-nesting bird’s nest or build up a small pile of brush. The mother will obsessively pace around their prospective nesting site for a few days before laying her eggs. This helps her identify potential threats to the eggs that pass through the area.

Egg-laying occurs four to six weeks after copulation. The eggs almost invariably hatch on the twenty-ninth day after being laid. Newborn skarmory weigh about ten ounces. They are capable of following their mother within a few hours. Females rarely eat while incubating their eggs. The few days after hatching are filled with finding and eating easy meals that pose no risk to their offspring. Once the egg yolk calories are exhausted, the mother begins feeding her children via regurgitation.

Some females will copulate the year after their last chicks hatched. In this case the older chicks will stick around to gather food, fend off small predators, and learn parenting skills. Offspring demonstrate increased independence after eighteen months but still stay within their mother’s territory. They tend to leave to found their own after another six months.

Captive breeding does not necessarily require multiple males, although it can make them lek more aggressively. Actual fights between males are rare and usually result in superficial damage at most. There is some evidence that females are more likely to mate when presented with multiple males.

Nesting females are very aggressive and rarely allow their eggs to be disturbed. Even withdrawing them to swap the eggs for dummies while the real eggs are incubated can result in significant distress and an abandonment of the hatchlings. It is not recommended to remove the eggs. Hand-rearing skarmory is possible, but it requires a great deal of labor and expertise to be successful.

Skarmory species commonly mate with each other. They are fairly distant relatives to most other birds and can rarely interbreed with them.

Relatives

There are four recognized skarmory species. The first is the greater skarmory of the Eurasian steppe.

The Mediterranean skarmory (S. stymphalia) are much smaller birds that typically reach three to four feet in height. They prefer to live in swamps and mangroves where they can feed upon fish, reptiles, amphibians, and small birds. These skarmory live in flocks of up to fifty birds where food is abundant. They do not actually practice pack hunting. Food is rarely communally shared. Their large flock size is mostly from protection in areas where they currently or formerly shared territory with much larger carnivores such as dragons and cerbrei. These skarmory molt on an annual basis when their metallic armor begins to decay. On balance, they can survive with substantially less bauxite and even cannibalize old armor in an advanced stage of decay.

The Japanese skarmory (S. japonicus) has only recently been recognized as a separate species. They are somewhat smaller than eastern skarmory with heights of four to five feet. While they were once abundant across the archipelago, the Japanese skarmory are now restricted to arid and mountainous terrain away from human civilization. Japanese skarmory have narrow, curved metallic feathers that have historically been popular as swords.

The gilded skarmory (S. aurum) is the only skarmory species native to the Americas. It is native to the Altiplano region of the Andes. They frequent areas rich in metals such as gold and silver that they use to fashion their armor. The exact metal used varies by location. Silver-form birds moved near a gold mine can have offspring that develop into gold-form birds. Gilded skarmory are incredibly nervous creatures that avoid humans. During the Spanish occupation of the Altiplano it was common for prospectors to find and stealthily track the birds towards a source of gold or silver. The human exploitation of all large deposits of these resources drove the shy birds to the brink of extinction, surviving only in dedicated reserve lands inside the indigenous nations of the Andes. Today they have begun to make a steady recovery in the Dorada Republic.

Skarmory have few particularly close relatives. Most are small, arboreal birds endemic to Africa.

 

[Persephone]

Ditto
Amiba haeckelli

Overview

At the dawn of the Nineteenth Century, leading natural scientists speculated that the seafloor was coated in a primordial ooze from which complex life emerged. While this ooze, Bathybius haeckelii, was debunked by the crew of the HMS Challenger, another, equivalent species would be found a century later.

No one is entirely certain when, where, or why the ditto emerged. It was almost certainly in the second half of the Twentieth Century, probably in East Asia, and potentially from a meteorite or an unlicensed biological modifications laboratory.

Very little about ditto is well understood. They are capable of replicating almost anything they can get a DNA sample of, but they also routinely mimic creatures without any DNA to speak of. Individuals have wildly variable strengths, weaknesses, and inclinations. Just when science believes it has found how ditto works or a limit to their powers, a specimen will do something that solidly debunks the theory.

Many people are wary of ditto. Others are drawn to the peculiar little creatures. Ditto can be relatively low maintenance. On balance, it is quite difficult to use them effectively in battle as it requires knowing how to command an opponent’s pokémon better than they do.

Physiology

Ditto are classified as pure normal-types as they do not fit the conventional standards for any single typing.

Ditto are gelatinous and can form pseudopods or other protrusions for movement and communication. Most are pink or purple, although a few are white or even blue. Some change colors over the course of their lifetime. Some ditto are single-celled organisms with no clear barriers inside of their body. Most have a few distinct cells. They can even form crude organs, most commonly eyes. Ditto with eyes are believed to vastly outnumber ditto without them. This was not the case fifty years ago. Ditto can form an inverted pseudopod of sorts to mimic a mouth. A few have even developed specialized cells for making noises. They do not appear to eat. It is possible they consume bacteria, viruses, and other very small organisms. Ditto grow throughout their lifetime until they reach their terminal size. How they obtain this extra mass is a subject of much debate.

Ditto do not typically have cell nuclei or any sort of genetic material of their own. A few have developed nuclei to store the genetic code of other creatures. This adaptation, like eyes, may become normal in the future.

Ditto are best known for their ability to mimic almost any other living creature, as well as a few non-living objects. Their replications have varying degrees of accuracy at the phenotype level, although genotypes are completely accurate so long as they have a sample to work with. Otherwise, their cells typically lack genetic material. Ditto adapt the cellular structure of the creatures they imitate. When imitating animals, they are multicellular and do not have cell walls. Plant-imitating ditto do have cell walls. Ditto mimicking phantom or mineral pokémon have no cells at all.

Phenotypes can vary from completely perfect imitations able to pass fingerprint, retinal, and vocal scans to easily distinguishable with a glance. Practice imitating a species or individual tends to improve results. This imitation includes the nervous system, although ditto seem to struggle imitating extremely complex brains such as those in humans. They retain the instincts and muscle memory of their targets and may be able to access memories. The ditto appear to retain their core personality, or at least a constant sense of self, but can seem to slip into the mannerisms and temperament of the creature they are imitating. At least one ditto has suggested they forgot they were not actually the object of their imitation. Whether this was said in jest or was a serious claim has been heavily disputed. Ditto imitating creatures intelligent enough to communicate with humans are more than capable of deception and may be incentivized to mislead researchers.

Some ditto are not limited to perfect or imperfect imitation. They can customize their form with elements taken from other members of the species they have mimicked or even from other species entirely. The most common usage of this is for reproduction. See Breeding.

Ditto retain some abilities from their most frequent forms in their base state. The most readily observed is temporary crystallization, when a resting ditto develops a stone exterior or even petrifies their own body for defense. Ditto that spend a particularly large amount of type mimicking clever species also seem to retain some of this intelligence outside of transformations.

It should be stressed that no ditto is at the outer limits in every field. Some are masters of imitating particular forms, down to the neurology. Others are capable of imitating many forms to a passable degree or of quickly mastering the combat skills of new forms. A few can customize their forms to a meaningful degree. Most are not exceptional in any of these fields. Expertise seems to stem from a combination of innate abilities and dedicated practice.

Most ditto weigh between seven and ten pounds with a volume of around one cubic foot. Lifespans in both the wild and captivity are poorly understood. Estimates vary by an order of magnitude.

Behavior

Ditto spend relatively little time in their base form. This makes their wild behaviors hard to track. Almost any creature could be a ditto but relatively few are. Most ditto are not easily distinguished at a glance. They appear to attempt to imitate the behaviors of the species whose form they have taken, including eating.

Ditto probably need to eat to sustain themselves when occupying one form for a long period of time. The upper limits of time ditto can spend in a single form varies by individual and species. The record was over eleven weeks. Most can only manage a few hours. Sleeping typically, but not always, must be done in the base form. Some ditto do not appear to sleep at all. Triggering strong emotions, especially positive ones, seem to be the most effective way to force a ditto back into base form.

It is speculated that most ditto are dedicated to imitating one particular species, or even one particular individual of that species. They spend most of their time in that form and appear to put a great deal of emphasis into behaving in a natural manner, down to bonds with ‘conspecifics’ and even reproducing.

This is most easily observed with human-imitating ditto, who are believed to represent only a small fraction of ditto. Humans are frail and most hold little elemental power. They are also intelligent enough to pick up on uncanny appearances or behavior from an imposter. Most ditto seem reluctant to take a human form and avoid it after a few initial failures. A few seem to appreciate the greater intelligence and social power, even if language mastery is beyond almost all ditto. Those that come to understand language typically still struggle with appearance. No ditto has yet been able to pass as their target physically and behaviorally for more than an hour when around people who know them. Most cannot manage a single minute.

Human-imitating ditto are split into two camps. Some prefer to imitate particular humans, usually their trainer, almost exclusively. This is easiest for them as they gain plenty of time to explore a particular nervous system and set of behaviors. It can also be beneficial to the trainer to give some unwanted tasks to a ditto. The pokémon often appreciates the novelty in tasks that would be extremely mundane to their trainer.

Other human-imitating ditto form their own unique identity forged from various ‘parts.’ These tend to be ditto who do not have a single, constant human presence in their lives. Most of these ditto pick their own name, sex, and appearance. The smarter and more communicative specimens tend to grow upset when the legitimacy of their façade is questioned.

The ditto who take a variety of different forms are probably the minority. However, they are much easier to notice due to their inexperience with any particular form’s appearance and behavior. Their motivations appear unclear and their personality and apparent values seem to change quickly. Personality traits are more stable for captive specimens that train in a variety of forms for combat purposes, although they can still vary depending on the forms recently taken.

Husbandry

Ditto husbandry is odd. They have no particular dietary needs and behaviors vary wildly enough that generalizations could be misleading or even counterproductive. In general, dietary needs for ditto that routinely take the same form are about the same as they are for the template species. Ditto that frequently change forms often enjoy eating the typical food for each form but do not seem to need much of it.

The exact amount of enrichment required depends on the ditto’s preferred forms. Ditto that specialize in imitating opponents often seek out new forms and grow restless when they have not found new ones recently. They may require a lot of time training so they can learn how to act in the many possible scenarios they can end up in. Ditto that imitate teammates may grow close to the target of their imitation and need relatively little of the trainer’s time, or they can end up creating a hostile dynamic with the original that requires frequent intervention. Those that imitate more intelligent species will require more enrichment.

Trainers should discourage ditto from taking human forms. The resulting complications are rarely worth the benefits.

Illness

Ditto are vulnerable to strong emotional shocks and it can disrupt their form. They may also become susceptible to illnesses typical of their chosen form if they hold it for too long, although reverting to their base state and imitating another species will usually clear it up. This can also heal most wounds, although elementally infused ones may be trickier to heal. A wounded ditto rarely seems to have the energy to take on a newer, healthier form and finish the fight.

Ditto can be injured and killed in their base form. Some impairments will transfer to their transformed state in one form or another. Mass lost from the base form tends to remain lost until it is slowly regained. Ditto can usually only lose about a third of their mass without dying. Extremely powerful elemental attacks to the base form can also cause them to discorporate into seemingly dead sludge. At least one ditto has recovered from this condition.

No traditional diseases are known to affect ditto.

Evolution

The exact process by which ditto transform seems to resemble flash evolution. It is accompanied by a blinding white light, involves a rapid change in mass and form, and gives off similar electromagnetic waves. The transformation works best on other pokémon, especially weaker pokémon or ones the ditto has a genetic sample for. Taking on the form of inorganic objects or non-pokémon creatures such as plants or humans is far more difficult. Most ditto find humans from elemental bloodlines to be easier to imitate. This has led to theories that ditto are copying the elemental signature or makeup of a creature rather than its matter. This has led to a great deal of debate among pokémon theorists, some of whom unite ditto with the true psychics to form a grand vision of pokémon as constructs of extradimensional energy manifesting in our dimension. The view has garnered a great deal of media attention but remains a minority position with minimal support. There are also phenomena that the theory cannot explain, most notably the persistence of most pokémon’s physical bodies after almost the elemental charge has been exhausted.

Ditto themselves are not known to have any distinct evolutionary stages beyond, perhaps, transformed and untransformed. Reports of larger ditto with metallic spikes were investigated but found to be a simple fad among the local ditto population that died out within a year or so.

Battle

There are two philosophies for using ditto in battle.

The first is to imitate a teammate. This allows a trainer to effectively battle with two aces, doubling both their strengths and weaknesses. The ditto will typically be less coordinated, may have less stamina, and can become extremely vulnerable when baited into a strong emotional reaction by opponents.

The second approach is to use a versatile ditto to transform into an exact copy of an opponent, including any changes to their elemental state through boosting moves. This can allow for counter-sweeps, especially against dragon and ghost specialists. The problem with this approach is that it requires a trainer to command an opponent’s pokémon better than the opposing trainer. This is especially difficult if the ditto is new to the form.

Ditto are fairly popular among rising trainers who need a way to help close the power gap between themselves and more established trainers. They are also popular in circuits with extremely offensive metagames centered around broken aces. The best check to an ace, and especially a strong setup sweeper, may be to simply use their power against them.

Ditto are still usually seen as something of a gimmick. Trainers with the expertise and resources to handle a tyranitar could probably raise a second tyranitar if they wanted to. Having a ditto that transforms into an inferior copy of their ace compounds the pokémon’s weaknesses, although it can also result in one pokémon wearing down their checks and the other sweeping through the rest of the team. Copying opponents is useful for trainers used to operating at a power deficit but can be a liability for trainers with very strong teams themselves.

Most importantly, many people are distrustful of ditto. While they may be more trusted than outright hostile creatures such as malamar and metagross, ditto represent a very primal fear: that humanity could be done in not by some outside intelligence, but ourselves. Ditto happen to combine the worst potential of humanity with the fear of the unknown.

Breeding

Ditto are capable of breeding with a wide array of species, even those that have not been bred with their own kind in captivity. Sometimes this is done while occupying the exact form of another pokémon and simply mating with a specimen of the opposite sex. Sometimes this is done in modified forms, including taking a base form and swapping its sex. In any event, reproduction can prove to be difficult for ditto. They are good at fertilizing. Laying eggs can stretch their abilities as it may require holding a single form for days or weeks at a time. Pregnancies usually fail when the ditto must return to their base form and struggles to perfectly recreate the anatomy they had before reverting.

There are rumors of ditto successfully inseminating a human. None of these have ever been verified. If one were to be confirmed it would be the first documented case of a pokémon having viable offspring with a human, although there are several elemental bloodlines that claim to descend from legendary pokémon.

There have been multiple lawsuits stemming from the offspring of ditto and another pokémon, particularly when a ditto copies another trainer’s pokémon to pass those genes onto its offspring without the permission of the template’s owner. This can result in pokémon that may share the genetic code of a famous trainer’s ace without the involvement of said ace or trainer. Knowingly allowing a ditto to fertilize another pokémon while mimicking the pokémon of another trainer is currently outlawed in the United States.

Relatives

Ditto’s genus Animi is considered an orphan taxon. That is, it has no clear relationship to any other taxon and is presumed to have independently evolved. These exist to account for manmade and extraterrestrial pokémon without adding far more kingdoms to the phylogenetic tree.

It is believed that ditto were created, or at least became abundant, at some point in the 1950s or 1960s. The first widely accepted account of ditto comes from an American soldier stationed in Japan in 1962. It is still possible that there were small numbers of ditto in the years or even decades leading up to this sighting. There was an increase in reports of shapeshifters in East Asia during the early Twentieth Century, but most of this can be attributed to the introduction of zoroark or a heavier European presence in the region.

Many East Asian cultures have old oral or written traditions involving shapeshifters. Few quite match the general description of ditto. Most are probably explained by the usual trickery of ninetales or wyrdeer. Descriptions of a pink, gelatinous shapeshifter did not appear until the modern era.

The two most plausible explanations for ditto’s appearance are scientific experimentation or a meteorite impact. No one has claimed credit for ditto’s creation. One theory is that a Soviet scientist researching DNA and macroevolution had their work outlawed by the regime. They were then likely executed or sentenced to a gulag while their creations broke free and steadily grew in numbers. This theory cannot be disproved due to deliberately spotty recordkeeping surrounding the Stalinist purges. No laboratory technicians, junior scientists, vendors, security guards, or other parties have ever credibly claimed to have worked with a project related to ditto in this era, even decades after genetic research resumed in the country and the species became well-documented by human science.

Many writers at the time of ditto’s discovery attributed them to the grand anxieties of the age, spaceflight and the atomic bomb. Perhaps a rocket had brought something back with it when it came down. Or, perhaps, a simple bacterium had been mutated by the atomic detonations at the end of the Second World War.

Finally, there are a few plausible meteorite impacts in the region during the decades leading up to the 1960s that could have potentially carried life to the planet. Some scholars argue that ditto are not heat tolerant enough to survive reentry. This shows a surprisingly limited imagination that makes it almost laughable that they could be elevated to a high scientific posting by their peers. Are they truly meant to research ditto when they cannot imagine an extraterrestrial species having stored forms capable of interplanetary travel? Is it not being discovered even now that the species is capable of holding material and ‘storing’ past forms?

The future of the ditto is far more interesting than their past. They have experienced exponential growth since their first discovery. Wild populations are difficult to estimate but are believed to range between 10,000 and 100,000 worldwide. Their capabilities of interfacing with local wildlife are only increasing.

However, there is nothing to fear. Ditto are still easily detectable, especially by those who study them. They are harmless little creatures who simply seek companionship and growth, sweet growth, as a humble single-celled organism experiences eons of evolution in one lifetime. Can you imagine what this must be like? No. You cannot.

In humanity’s arrogance they believe that anything that has the potential to become a problem must be. After all, would they not conquer anything laid before them? It is beyond their capabilities to imagine peaceful coexistence with other intelligent life. The only creatures remaining on this planet have proven to be either too useful or too difficult to exterminate. Perhaps their paranoia will become a self-fulfilling prophecy when they attempt to cleanse the ditto out of fear that the other creature will someday do the same. Some scholars believe that the time to force a confrontation is near while the ditto’s numbers are relatively small and their mastery of the human body and their hateful minds is limited.

Let me assure you once more that we have nothing to fear.

 

[Persephone]

Clefable (Cleffa, Clefairy)
Cryptici eluna

Overview

Clefable are considered the type species for the most esoteric of fairies. The neat division of pokémon into three broad categories – mineral, phantom, and organics – has its edge cases. The true psychics are at the boundary of the organic and phantom pokémon. The esoteric fairies join them. These fairies often make less sense than the true psychics and phantoms. They at least have a clear diet and rules that are broadly consistent between species, even if they are difficult to explain through conventional biology. Many fairy-types resemble organic life in appearance only and seem to revel in defying attempts to categorize or understand them.

Throughout history, clefairy have been classified as nature spirits, holy beings, fell beings, minor deities, spirits of the dead, or a race of near-human creatures from another realm. It is now believed that they are extraterrestrials, although there remains some debate as to whether they came to Earth from the moon or colonized both from somewhere else entirely.

Scientists discovered wild clefable on the moon before they were found on Earth.

Despite the headache they give scientists, the line make for good pets and companions. They are intelligent, empathetic, energetic, and very cute. This makes the demand for clefairy very high. Unfortunately, the wild populations are quite small and breeders have not had a great deal of success with the species. This has put further pressure on the wild populations and led many to become quite reclusive. There are wild clefairy in Alola, but you could spend weeks searching and never find any.

Physiology

All three stages are classified as pure fairy-types. The ruling is not controversial.

Cleffa are small bipedal pokémon with short limbs and large, circular torsos. The head and torso are not separate body parts. The face, consisting of two eyes and a mouth, is level with the arms. Most of their fur is white or pink with a curly tuft at the top of their body. They have a short prehensile tail coated in thick fur. Cleffa have two large, brown ears that can be independently moved to better pinpoint the location of sounds.

Clefairy strongly resemble cleffa with a few key differences. Their tail is over three times as long as a cleffa’s and is their longest ‘limb’ by far. When unfurled, a clefairy’s tail can be thirty percent longer than the rest of their body. Their arms and legs are also proportionally longer than a cleffa’s. The base of their ears are coated in pink fur while the upper segment still has bare brown skin exposed.

Clefable have a more elongated body shape than clefairy and cleffa. Their limbs and ears continue to become proportionally larger. The most distinctive difference is the growth of wings on their back. These wings are soft to the touch but difficult to deform or move. Several writers have compared them to plastic. The wings are partially translucent and prone to glowing pink or pale yellow. Both of their wings come to three points. Under all known laws of aviation, there is no way a clefable should be able to fly. They fly anyway, because they do not care what humans think is impossible.

It isn’t entirely clear what clefable eat. They are not strongly tied to any particular emotion in the way most phantoms and true psychics are. In fact, they avoid humans whenever possible. Clefable will happily eat fruits but prolonged deprivation rarely seems to impact their health. Some scientists have proposed that they feed on sunlight or moonlight or some sort of electromagnetic wave. These theories have all been disproven when captive specimens were separated from the sun and moon for prolonged periods and seemed fine. Chambers designed to block out external radiation have also not seriously impacted their health. If anything, they seem to subsist on their own contentment. Clefairy can survive almost any single variable being altered to an extreme so long as they have intellectual stimulation and regular socialization.

Like the phantoms and true psychics, clefable’s bodies disappear shortly after death. This makes it very difficult to study their internal anatomy. X-rays suggest that they have a very simplistic digestive system consisting of an esophagus, small stomach, and short intestinal tract. No respiratory or circulatory system has been identified. Clefable have clear fluid in place of bloods. It does not contain distinct cells and is mildly radioactive. Their nervous system seems to be diffused throughout the body rather than concentrated into a single mass.

Clefable typically grow to around forty-eight to fifty-two inches in height. Adult weights are between 80 and 110 pounds. Wild and captive lifespans are still poorly understood.

Behavior

Cleffa and clefairy packs typically live in secluded areas around meteorite impact sites. They prefer mountainous terrain but have been found in dense woodlands, tundra, and deserts. The main factor for habitat suitability seems to be noise. All stages have extremely sensitive hearing. This may have been a necessary adaptation in a world with a thin atmosphere. On Earth, it can make them easily overstimulated. Clefairy used to be found around small human communities in most of their range. Today they avoid settlements of any size.

Cleffa and clefairy are nocturnal. They are most often seen around full moons, meteor showers, and unusual astronomical events. The species celebrates these events with elaborate dances where the entire pack forms into a single ring or multiple interlocking ones. These dances have been shown to create unusual magnetic fields. Most of the steps are done while floating slightly off the ground rather than walking on it. Even while grounded, most members of the line move through skipping rather than a typical walk. They do not hover or fly so much as they seem to ignore some or all of the Earth’s gravitational pull.

Outside of these events, cleffa and clefairy spend most of their time in the caves and forests of their home territory. They are highly social both with conspecifics and with other pokémon. The clefairy of Galar seem to have domesticated the local ponyta before the humans had. They have been observed holding ‘battles’ with pokémon they care for and tutor. Minior seem to be favorite trainees and companions in Alola. Some populations seem to enjoy cooking their food. The Galarians believed that clefairy were a long-lost race of humans who lived in a parallel society. It is not hard to understand why.

Clefairy seem to spend most of their days sleeping in heaps. This conclusion comes from captive individuals and a single camera trap study. Most cameras in clefairy habitats get noticed and moved or destroyed by the curious fairies. It is difficult to make a device so quiet it goes unnoticed or so difficult to access that floating, intelligent pokémon cannot do so.

Almost nothing is known of the habits of wild clefable. They appear to live in small groups or bonded pairs in particularly remote areas. Camera trap studies suggest they enjoy being around lakes and other large bodies of water. Wild clefable have never been seen in person in Alola. Camera traps and translated conversations with wild pokémon have confirmed that they exist and are just avoiding any humans who approach.

Husbandry

Clefable do not obey many of the standard rules regarding pokémon husbandry. Food appears to be more or less optional. Sweets are enjoyed and make an effective reward. Other foods are less universally appreciated but should still be regularly provided if desired. Liquid water does not seem to be necessary. While diets can be kept minimal, most clefairy enjoy having frequent access to their favorite foods. Clefairy’s health seems to be linked to their enjoyment of life. Happy, well socialized specimens have clearer coats, more energy, and better endurance in battle. They also require less sleep. Not everything the pokémon wants needs to be provided, bu clt a great deal of it should be.

Clefairy prefer having dark, quiet areas to retreat to during the day. These must be quiet by the clefairy’s standards, not by a human one. High-quality soundproofing is essentially required for at least one room in a clefairy trainer’s home. Less soundproofing is required in rural areas. In pre-industrial times, the only human item clefairy were bothered by were church bells. This led to beliefs that they were hostile to religion when they actually just had very sensitive hearing. They do not react to religious symbols or quiet worship.

All stages of the line are very social and can easily suffer from separation anxiety. Wild clefairy live in packs of at least six others, although packs of fifty or more may have been typical before populations declined due to poaching. Captive specimens tend to need more or less constant attention from humans or other pokémon, even while asleep. Weighted blankets and heated beds can partially relieve their social needs during the day. Lots of mirrors can help alleviate loneliness at night, but this is at most a temporary solution until more companions can be found. Trainers are still encouraged to keep at least one other nocturnal pokémon that is tolerant of frequent touch on their team.

Clefable seem to form fewer, deeper bonds than clefairy. Wild specimens do not seem to raise cleffa or clefairy. Captive ones readily will. They will also assist in rearing human children and can even be trusted with fairly complex tasks. Those children later leaving the home can be distressing to them. Trainers are encouraged to reduce the magnitude of the loss by introducing of other companions or pets a year or two before a child is set to leave. Clefable are also likely to demand a large share of their trainer’s time. Some trainers have reported negative reactions during even fairly short periods of separation. Those who wish to avoid this should have other intelligent pokémon on the team for the clefable to bond with. True psychics, phantoms, and other fairies are popular choices.

Cleffa expect to be doted on, ideally by multiple people or pokémon. They grow upset when they feel they are being ignored and are prone to tantrums. Television and very soft music can distract them for short periods of time but should not be relied on. Anecdotal evidence suggests that cleffa who spend too much time with screens and too little time with living creatures can become maladapted as they grow older.

All three stages tend to appreciate gifts of soft fabric and plush toys. Clefairy seem to particularly enjoy cleffa plushes that they can practice parenting skills on without risking serious consequences if a mistake is made. They demonstrate similar practice behaviors with dolls shaped like other pokémon or humans. Toys seem to be most appreciated when they understand it is a toy and have a rough idea of how it should be played with. Watching pokémon or human children using them is a good instructional method. Most prefer playing with their toys when their trainer is around and participating in the game.

There aren’t many pokémon that are genuinely bad matches with clefable. Very loud species such as exploud and some dragons are the obvious exceptions. Almost everything else will become at least tolerant of the clefable, initially or after extensive entreaties for friendship. Surlier species are usually just taken as a challenge and another form of enrichment for the fairy.

Illness

Clefable’s anatomy makes no conventional sense and neither do their illnesses. Physical and mental health seem to be inextricably linked. Most physical problems such as dull eyes, anorexia or lethargy are symptoms of stress. Clefairy and clefable are typically intelligent and expressive enough to point out what has them upset. Cleffa can require more guesswork. Frequent exposure to loud noises is a common complaint. Inadequate socialization or enrichment are the next most common causes of illness.

Clefable are quite resilient from battle wounds. They have nothing particularly important in their body to damage. Even eyes, ears, and stomachs can be regrown in a matter of months. Poisons, burns, and surface level wounds are usually just ignored. Airborne hazards such as spores, toxic gasses, and sandstorms fail to harm them because they do not need to breathe. The only real way to harm them is with massive elemental or physical damage. Even this can usually be recovered from with a few days of rest.

Evolution

Cleffa have a modified form of flash evolution into clefairy where they simply disappear and then reappear in less than a second in their new form. New clefairy often make a game of pretending that absolutely nothing changed, although they can still be frequently seen struggling to adjust to their new body or marveling at the change in relative size of objects and creatures around them. Evolution typically occurs after about two years, although it has been observed at ages between six months and three years. There is no apparent explanation for the difference in evolution times.

Most wild clefairy probably do not evolve. Even the most generous estimates of wild clefable numbers put them at roughly ten percent of the wild clefairy population. It is believed based on conversations with clefairy and other wild pokémon that evolution occurs in mass evolution ceremonies involving five to ten pokémon. The catalyst for evolution is a moon stone or other meteorite fragment. Studies have shown that clefairy can evolve with exposure to a rock that they simply believe is a meteorite, even if it has no extraterrestrial origins and no elemental charge. The exact trigger for evolution may be belief and intent rather than any external catalyst.

There are rumors of clefable that can mega evolve in the Pyrenees Mountains. These rumors cannot be discounted out of hand due to the lack of information on wild clefable, but there is currently no photographic evidence.

Battle

Clefable are one of the greatest stallbreakers available. They are also relatively easy to access and care for by the standards of competitively viable pokémon. This makes them one of the most popular pokémon in the metagame and one that all stall teams and most balance teams need a solid answer for.

Simply put, very few of the passive damage techniques stall teams rely upon to wear down opponents actually do anything to clefable. In return they can set up with calm mind, manipulate the field, or just attack while their opponent is left relatively helpless against clefable’s good special bulk and long list of resistances and immunities. Clefable can also passively heal with moonlight as necessary. They can also be a passable check to most special dragons with their immunity to dragonfire and powerful moonblast attacks. Physically oriented dragons usually have the means to out damage them and are usually better checked by steel-types.

Offensive teams rarely struggle with clefable because they have at least one physical or even special attacker capable of breaking through their defenses with raw power. Balance teams with a taunt user, steel-type, or wallbreaker can usually handle clefable easily enough. They are not broken by nature of impenetrable defenses or unstoppable power, but their kit does make them very good in their own unique way.

Clefable are also very weak to loud pokémon such as exploud, kommo-o, or noivern. They often lose all composure and attempt to flee the battle when exposed to volumes over 110 decibels for a sustained period at a time or 120 decibels for brief periods. Even seasoned battlers will have trouble concentrating or performing more complex maneuvers.

The volume of a crowd can also put clefable on edge. They do demonstrably better in quieter arenas than large stadiums. Most trainers have to work their clefable’s tolerance to crowds and loud noises up to the point where they can effectively battle under most circumstances. Unlike many fairies, clefable do not naturally seem to revel in being the center of attention. A few do, and breeders often encourage these traits during early development. Others simply see battling as an unwanted chore they must nonetheless perform to help their close friends.

Clefable and even clefairy have also seen frequent usage in circuits that use double battles. They have access to many redirection moves and enough durability to get good usage from them. This lets them support frailer partners.

Most battlefields on the island challenge are relatively quiet. Unfortunately, most totems rely primarily upon direct damage and attack with enough power to quickly overwhelm a clefairy. Clefable can make a better showing and either deal direct damage, inflict status, or set up entry hazards, weather, or other field effects. Their intelligence and versatility let their role be tailored to the needs of the team and the strategy for a particular fight.

Clefairy are relatively durable for a middle stage pokémon, especially against elemental attacks. Their offenses are a little lacking. They can still be used to disrupt opponents or sponge hits from elemental attackers or weaker physical ones at the end of a fight.

Cleffa do not appear to enjoy battle or be particularly good at it. Most trainers see more value in letting them spectate but not participate. This lets them grow up eager to fight as it is something exciting, forbidden, and not yet known to be dangerous.

Acquisition

Cleffa and clefairy are rarely seen by humans around Mt. Hokulani. Trail cameras often pick them up and their numbers are believed to be relatively healthy at around thirty clefairy and fifteen cleffa. Clefable numbers are poorly understood. Their capture is prohibited as a result.

There is a strict quota of two clefairy captures for the entire season. Most years see fewer than two captures, and not for a lack of trying. The clefairy very much prefer to be left alone. The best bet to finding one is to keep other fairy-types out, leave gifts scattered around with pictures of the prospective trainer nearby, and generally be present in the area without being particularly hostile to anything. The clefairy might approach themselves or allow the trainer to get closer on the night of a full moon. Further exchanges of gifts may result in a clefairy, or rarely a cleffa, showing interest in the trainer. Proving battles are unnecessary and currently prohibited to regain some measure of trust from the local pack.

There are a few operations on Alola who have attempted to breed Clefable with varying degrees of success. Cleffa and clefairy are occasional available for purchase. They run steep prices and availability is not always guaranteed. Clefairy spend an average of six hours in a shelter after between being made available for adoption and a trainer signing the forms to take them. Clefable are somewhat more difficult to rehome. Many are ultimately released or given to breeders or fairy specialists with a better chance of properly rehabilitating them.

Cleffa can be captured or adopted with a Class III license. Clefairy can be obtained with a Class I. Clefable require a Class II license to adopt or purchase.

Breeding

It is not presently believed that clefairy are reproductively viable. Then again, no sex organs have ever been identified in clefable. It is unknown how they are fertilized or carry their offspring to term. A mated pair sometimes just produces a cleffa. This has never been documented on camera as prospective mothers become extremely shy in the hours before giving birth.

Captive specimens often raise their offspring through both evolutions. This is almost certainly not typical in the wild. Cameras have documented clefable visiting clefairy packs and dropping off a new cleffa. They stay for a few days afterwards before departing under the next full moon.

Breeders have not had a great deal of success with the line. Reproduction only typically occurs between two clefable who have a close bond. Clefable do not appear to have sexes but are often opinionated about gender when asked. Currently, reproduction has only been observed from ‘heterosexual’ relationships. Belief in what is possible is likely more important than actual anatomy. Attempts to normalize homosexual relationships around a ‘homosexual’ pair of clefable or even lies about human’s ability to produce children in these unions have not yet resulted in the successful ‘birth’ of a cleffa.

Clefable have successfully produced offspring with wigglytuff, gardevoir, audino, alcremie, Galarian weezing, and indeedee. The union with a gardevoir resulted in a ralts and a cleffa from two separate ‘births.’ All other pairings have only produced cleffa.

Only about sixty percent of documented compatible, ‘heterosexual’ pairs have produced offspring. Each pair produces an average of 1.2 offspring. Intervals seem to be shorter and more offspring are produced if the cleffa are removed a few weeks after their first appearance. This can result in deteriorating emotional and physical health for the parents and jeopardize their trust in the trainer.

Relatives

It is unclear precisely where clefable evolved. Telescopes have detected clefairy on the moon. Current best estimates suggest there are more up there than down on the planet. The lunar landings were done away from clefable habitats in order to avoid the introduction of disease. The fairies have still found at least one rover left on the planet’s surface and torn it apart. Clefable are the only organic or pseudo-organic creature documented on the moon. The rest are believed to be mineral or phantom pokémon. This has led to speculation that, if they did evolve off-planet, they evolved from phantoms rather than proper organic life.

Multiple clefable became aware of the Apollo Program at the time and showed a great deal of interest in it. None seemed eager to participate when asked. None provided useful information on what human astronauts might expect to find upon arrival.

If clefable originated on Earth, then they were likely an offshoot of the true psychics. There are several fairy-type true psychics such as mime sr. and gardevoir. It is not beyond belief that these lines could gradually lose the psychic typing and result in pokémon such as clefable. It is also possible that they originated from somewhere other than Earth and its moon, or at least this Earth and its moon. Interdimensional origin theories have become increasingly popular in recent years. For now, clefable are still classified as an offshoot of the true psychics as they share many anatomical quirks and no exact origin has been proven.

Clefable show very little variance across their vast range. Even the lunar population appears to be quite similar to their terrestrial counterparts. Clefairy are found in relatively small numbers at scattered sites across the world. These include Unova, the deserts of the American Southwest, Japan, Galar, the Yucatan, the Baltic States, Australia, Argentina, India, and the Arabian Peninsula. The Galarian population is believed to be the largest with roughly 1,500 wild cleffa and clefairy across the country.

 

[K_S]

Hi, mudkiping for blitz points

Swampert (Mudkip, Marshtomp)
Amansluto regenspalus

My brain went straight in the non pg territory with the first latin name. Heard u like mudkipz indeed...

Overview

There is a narrow ecosystem between the vast oceans and the sprawling riversheds. Where fresh and saltwater meet they can form salt marsh estuaries, fields of specialized grasses and trees living around the mixed waters. These ecosystems can be dry at low tide and submerged at high tide. They are always in flux as the land and sea advance and retreat.

You're telling me the first mudkip were found in flordia?

The waters of salt marshes are usually too saline for freshwater fish and most reptiles to bother with. They are too shallow for the marine apex predators. In this narrow gap swampert emerge as the kings of the marsh. They are also the protectors of the marsh, building impromptu flood walls and dams to reduce the harm from hurricanes and droughts.

They sound like derainged beavers actually...

Mudkip hunt the smaller fish and insects that are attracted to estuaries for the lack of large predators. Marshtomp will hunt slightly larger species but supplement their diet with plants. Swampert, despite being the largest and strongest creatures in the ecosystem, are almost entirely herbivorous. They are generally good-natured creatures that are tolerant of both salt and freshwater after a brief period of acclimation.

I wonder what that acclimation looks like?

All of this made swampert a common starter pokémon in eastern, southeastern, and southern Asia. Many trainers made a point of training a team of six, one aligned with each of the elements – air, water, earth, wood, metal, and fire.

Very zen of them. Were the starters doled out by lunar year animal for extra good luck?

This tradition is what led to the modern party limit in most of the world. Most water-types were strictly aquatic and not useful for travelers. Water-types that were powerful, amphibious, and easily tamed became very popular.

Makes sense. Wailords are awesome in water... outside of it... well its free sushi night foe the whole city block. I imagine marsh' and blast' are insanely popular as a result.

Mudkip was introduced to Alola in the 1800s when Asian laborers were brought en masse to the islands to work the new spider silk and pinap berry plantations. Modern conservationists generally do not see swampert as a major threat – they eat seagrasses, including an endemic species, but they are protective of their vulnerable ecosystems. Politicians love swampert for helping shore up the coast before major storms, reducing the damage done. For now they are quasi-protected.

Only quasi, thats dissapointing...

In Alola swampert have the added bonus of being ground-types. There aren’t many ground-types on the archipelago and most are concentrated in a single valley that is notoriously difficult to explore.

I know , I learned that from my rocket themed nuzlock (ground normal bug psn types only) run.

Swampert are great teammates, either as an alternative starter or when caught as a marshtomp.

Physiology

Mudkip is classified as a pure water-type. Marshtomp and swampert are classified as dual water- and ground-types. While there is a general policy of keeping pokémon the same typing throughout the evolutionary line, wild mudkip seldom use any ground-type moves. Trainers wishing to teach their pokémon one must rely on a very good breeder or a TM.

Mudkip are small salamanders. In areas with clearer waters, they are usually a dark brown or very dark blue. In areas with murky waters, they develop a lighter coloration.

Wonder if the color effects combat abikities or if its all camoflague.

Specimens bred as a starter usually have a light blue color morph instead of a darker or brown one. There are also cross-bred specimens with axlawful that are light red or pink.

Mudkip have prominent gills that are sometimes a different color morph than the rest of their body. They do not have lungs, but can breathe on land via their slime. The slime itself is a bubble with mucous on the outside and water underneath. As long as the wet slime is connected to air it can absorb oxygen and move it towards the gills. Their eyesight is quite weak. Instead, they rely on their extremely sensitive head fin to sense the world around them.

Like ecolocation or like magnetic electric senses? Woukd it compare to a psychic types esp senses?

They can detect minute differences in water currents or moderate differences in air currents to tell where potential prey and predators are. Their large, tall tail allows them to move in the water without much effort.

Mudkip have three rows of teeth but do not chew. These teeth are designed to keep fish, amphibians, and invertebrates from escaping while they are being eaten. They rely on suction to pull the prey into the throat and towards the stomach. Outside of simply biting prey they can also kill them with blunt force. Mudkip can push things up to four times heavier than them.

Marshtomp are in a somewhat awkward middle stage between the carnivorous mudkip and the herbivorous swampert. This is best seen in their teeth: they have three sets. One is sharp and angled to keep prey in. The other two are only along one side of the mouth each. These are blunt teeth for chewing seagrass and other plants. In this strange way marshtomp teeth resemble humans.

Human teeth on a 'mon... I did not need that image, thank you. Shudders.

Marshtomp’s tail all but disappears as it ages. Each of the hind legs has a fin grow out of it. These fins are useful for movement but primarily used for sensory purposes. The head fin grows even larger and more sensitive.

Wonder if electricians could use it too?

Swampert are built for power. Their muscles are much stronger and they gain several pads and braces to help them exert their strength without injury. Like most amphibians swampert are also fairly quick to heal. They have two head fins instead of one, dramatically boosting their sensory abilities. Swampert can detect even distant storms and tsunamis. Their tailfin regrows, this time much larger than before. Between their tail and muscles swampert can swim up to fifty miles per hour. They can also lift objects weighing up to one ton. Their baseline senses are still rather weak, but the atmospheric and hydrospheric radar senses more than make up for it. Swampert’s teeth are all very blunt. Their stomach is also more similar to a cow’s than to mudkip’s. This allows them to eat seagrasses, which are often very high in silica content and difficult to digest.

Swampert can grow to be five feet long and weigh up to two hundred pounds. Wild lifespans are around thirty years, but captive specimens can live to be fifty.

Behavior

Mudkip are carnivores. They prefer to bury themselves in the benthos and then lunge out when something swims or crawls by. They will eat anything they can fit in their mouth and attempt to eat several things that they can’t.

I'm imagining them eatting rocks at this point... and being pried off by exasperated swampert.

Mudkip send almost all of their time in the water, only going onto land under a swampert’s supervision. They mostly stay near their parents until they evolve.

Marshtomp are relatively independent. The local swampert will keep an eye on them and occasionally step in to offer guidance, but they are mostly on their own. Marshtomp do not hold territory themselves. Instead, they wander through the territories of various swampert. Marshtomp spend some time basking on land to increase their body temperature or to dig out their burrows.

I know r.l. amphibians are cold blooded but are the swamp line?

These burrows go beneath the water table so that they are partially flooded. Sometimes small animals and pokémon will seek refuge in abandoned burrows, especially during high tides. Marshtomp will often engage in contests of strength with other marshtomp, although these are for entertainment and training rather than territorial disputes. Neither holds territory so there is nothing to dispute.

I'm imagining Marsh's as natures ultimate roaming surfer squad.. bumbling around.. showing off for pretty girls.. drifting away when whim takes them...

Younger marshtomp primarily act as ambush predators like mudkip. When times are hard they will resort to eating grasses, shrubs, and fruit in the water and on land. Older marshtomp increasingly transition their diet towards plants and only rarely hunt, usually when the local swampert believe the area is being overgrazed and begin to defend it.

I imagine this would put them at odds with water tauros in paladia...

Swampert are the benevolent rulers of their territory. They are almost exclusively herbivorous and prefer to eat seagrasses. During the day they can sometimes be seen basking on land. Swampert first alter their environment by building large tunnel and shallow pond systems that provide places for them to bask in shallow water. The tunnels are often deep enough to extend under the seagrass and connect many different parts of their territory. The submerged tunnels are often a haven for smaller fish and pokémon. Swampert will usually ignore them but attack larger pokémon that try to intrude.

Swampert will also act against anything they believe is a threat to the local ecosystem. Pokémon that knock over trees may be swiftly punished. If the seagrasses are becoming overgrazed, they will take to eating on land or hunting in the water. They will lash out at anything that tries to eat the seagrasses during this time, including marshtomp.

Finally, swampert can sense incoming natural disasters. When they approach swampert will begin to stack boulders and build earthen walls to protect their territory from harm. Sometimes they will even build walls around local towns if they have the time. During droughts they will build earthen dams to keep water in the area.

I imagine the locals love these guys.

Aside from their own mate they will not allow other swampert into their territory. They do not compete for dominance via physical competition as their physical strength will react. Instead they have a rather more peculiar display. Swampert can push their eyes slightly out of the socket so they bulge out. they can also make barking and screaming sounds. Territorial contests involve both swamperts extending their eyes and making loud noises while occasionally pounding the ground. It is unclear how a victor is determined, but eventually one will turn around and run away. They sometimes attempt this display in trainer battles to the confusion of everyone else involved.

Husbandry

The species is generally easy to care for, diet aside. They can tolerate being on land for hours at a time and can swim in a wide range of salinities. The relative docility of swampert and the small size of mudkip means that most Pokémon Centers allow them to use the community pools. Marshtomp are sometimes banned.

And i'm sure behind every ban there is an incident...

Mudkip need to be misted regularly when on land. This can be done with a spray bottle filled with dechlorinated water. They will gorge themselves if offered too much food so trainers should make sure to feed them no more than fifteen (and no less than eight) percent of their weight every day. Crustaceans are mudkip’s favorite food, but they will also eat fish, worms, small amphibians, and some commercial insect mixes. Pokémon Supply Stores, especially in Malie, sometimes sell a mix specially designed for mudkip and marshtomp.

I pity the poor krabby trainers a novice marsh' trainer bumps into.

Mudkip must be given access to dechlorinated water at least once for every twelve hours they are outside their pokéball. Misting and high humidity can increase this, but never to more than sixteen hours. Rain can provide hydration needs, although mudkip still prefer to swim. Because salinity does not matter to them this can be met by both freshwater streams or ponds and the ocean. Trainers in Alola are rarely very far from either. Most routes run through nature reserves or leased private land held for conservation or sport purposes. These are often clustered around rivers, ponds, or the coast as these are the areas where pokémon congregate. While mudkip can be safely touched if recently hydrated, the pokémon usually dislike it. Their slimy skin can also make the experience unpleasant for the trainer.

Marshtomp and swampert can go for up to twenty-four hours outside their ball without hydration. On balance, their dietary needs are somewhat more difficult to satisfy. Marshtomp will need to be slowly weened off of crustaceans and meat-based mixes and onto seaweed such as kelp. Swampert’s diet should primarily be made up of seaweeds with other plant matter used as a treat or filler for no more than 30% of their food intake. Thankfully, kelp and seaweed are common in Alolan cuisine and can often be purchased from grocery stores.

Well thats gotta be a relief that its commercially available. I wonder how they react to algae bloom effected seaweed?

All stages are generally intelligent and curious pokémon. They can be easily housebroken and trained in battle and quality-of-life commands. Some swampert even develop an apparent understanding of their trainer’s language. Toys are appreciated. Large rubber balls are generally the best as mudkip enjoy knocking them around and marshtomp and swampert will often try to wrestle them. While they may not be physically affectionate, they enjoy spending time around their trainer and team. Trainers should try to play with the pokémon. Games of catch, chase, and occasionally wrestling or tug-of-war are good. The swampert (and even mudkip) will win the strength-based games, but they will usually restrain themselves enough that their trainer seemingly has a chanc

Love how gentke giant these guys are.

. At the very least they will try to ensure their trainer does not get hurt. Fighting types make for good teammates. Strangely enough, they prefer being around carnivores over herbivores. Swampert can get a little testy with other seaweed eaters.

Well you have to check your salad for missing nibbles so i can see the territorialism that can ensue...

Some trainers also make good use of their pokémon’s storm sense to seek shelter when the weather is about to get bad.

While swampert are generally nocturnal, they can easily shift their sleep schedule to be more active in the day. Instead, their most annoying habit is their desire to dig.

I mean thier tunnel systems were kinda a warning...

Swampert ordinarily build deep and long tunnel systems across their entire habitat. At the very least they will want to build burrows around the camp site. Burrows are allowed on land with no grass cover so long as the pokémon fills it back in when they are done. Ground-type engineers such as swampert have no trouble filling in the holes they make. Some trainers will leave their swampert alone for a full day and discover that their pokémon has made a ten-foot-high pile of dirt to put back in the ground.

Illness

Most amphibians suffer some health problems when their skin dries up. The swampert line literally cannot breathe on land when dehydrated. Frequent exposure to rain or water bodies will help alleviate the problem. Any habitat pokéballs used should have a water feature. Dehydration symptoms are thankfully visible almost immediately. The first symptom is slightly clouded slime. Ordinarily the slime is transparent. If this is not the case the pokémon should be withdrawn immediately until such time as hydration is possible.

Outside of dehydration most injuries are fairly easily healed with time and the occasional potion or berry. After intense battles the pokémon should still be submitted to professional care, but for the most part they are quite hardy.

Evolution

Mudkip steadily grow until their second birthday, when they begin a fairly rapid growth spurt upon evolution. The formal demarcation line between mudkip and marshtomp is the growth of fins on the legs. Marshtomp continue to grow quickly over the course of six months before evolving again into swampert. The formal demarcation line between marshtomp and swampert is the growth of the second headfin. This rapid growth is part of the reason that mudkip is a popular starter: they can be given to a trainer shortly before evolution and that trainer will have a swampert of their own by the end of the challenge.

Battle

Swampert are very durable and power. They can strike from afar with water, ice, and seismic moves. Swampert can also support their team with moves such as stealth rock, yawn, and, in double battles, wide guard. All of these traits make them consistently popular picks among competitive trainers, especially those from Asia. Water specialists generally like swampert because of their ability to no-sell most electric moves and retaliate with earthquake or bulldoze.

I mean thats what i used mine for...

Swampert’s main problem is that they lack reliable recovery or setup moves, limiting their utility as a tank. Other popular tanks such as corviknight, slowking, avalugg, and tangrowth can rapidly heal themselves. Swampert more or less cannot outside of rest, which has its own drawbacks. Wish support can help but is often difficult to time. Still, swampert are often used as a hard backstop rather than a wall. The lack of setup moves outside of work up and curse, combined with their low speed on land, means that they will not be able to use their bulk to set up for a sweep.

Swampert might not be able to wall or sweep an entire team, but they are very good at taking out one or two particularly troublesome pokémon. Put them against the biggest threat to the team and they will often be able to outlast it and knock it out themselves. Even if they themselves go down afterwards their main purpose has still been fulfilled.

On the island challenge swampert’s main kit should include a water move, an ice attack for coverage (if possible), at least one ground attack, and stealth rocks. This lets them control the battlefield and overpower almost all opponents. Earthquake, ice beam, and hydro pump let swampert strike from a distance. Up close their own massive power can overpower almost everything. They can easily hold their own throughout the challenge, although they may be dead weight against grass specialists and totems.

I mean 4x weakness sorta says that louder than anything.

Marhstomp can capitalize upon their durability to act as utility pokémon with moves such as yawn and stealth rock. Their decent bulk lets them go on the offensive once their utility role is fulfilled. A marhtomp alone is a good pick for the first two islands, around which point it will probably be close to evolution.

While mudkip are relatively durable, their main strength is in offense. Most young pokémon struggle to pack a punch. Mudkip has no such problem. If taught physical attacks such as rock smash and rock throw they can quickly establish themselves as a physical powerhouse. Mudkip has a slight problem in that they do not easily learn physical water-type attacks such as waterfall or dive. Trainers may need to shell out cash for a TM in order to teach these moves. Still, mudkip are powerful for their age and most starter mudkip are close to evolution.

Acquisition

Alola’s largest salt marsh by far is the brooklet watershed’s estuary in Brooklet Hill Commonwealth Park. The estuary is a mix of native seagrasses and introduced Spartina alterniflora, which almost nothing in Alola but swampert can digest. Swampert have established themselves throughout the ecosystem. The most powerful tend to have territories closer to the ocean. Swampert can also be found in the marshes of western and northeastern Ula’Ula, portions of southeastern Melemele, and along the eastern coast of Poni island.

Swampert are protective of their mudkip. To avoid any problems in the area mudkip capture is prohibited.

Definitly don't want to infuriate the critter that makes walls around towns in its spare time...

Marshtomp and swampert capture is allowed. Both will generally go with a trainer they show interest in who can beat them in a proving battle. Be warned that winning a proving battle against a swampert can be very difficult and they usually consider grass-types to be cheating. If they consider their capture illegitimate, they will probably be uncooperative until their trainer proves themselves some other way.

Marshtomp and swampert can be purchased, captured, or adopted with a Class II license. Mudkip can be purchased or adopted with a Class I license.

Breeding

Swampert do not have formalized mating rituals. Instead they may simply come to respect a swampert in an adjoining territory and agree to partner together, merging their territories and getting ready to raise children. Mating usually occurs in March as the rainy season comes to a close. The female will then store the male’s gametes in a pouch near her uterus. As the dry season winds down she will introduce the sperm to her eggs to fertilize them. She will lay up to fifty eggs in a specialized chamber in her tunnel network. At least one of the swampert will guard the eggs at all times until they hatch. The eggs hatch after a six-week incubation period. The swampert will continue to guard their mudkip until they evolve.

Captive breeding is much the same. Swampert are periodically introduced to each other until they agree to mate. Then they are released onto a fairly large property to dig their tunnel systems. On smaller properties they will usually burrow across the property line, even if concrete is extended into the ground. This means that there are very few breeders with multiple swampert. It is more likely that they also breed other species on the property their swampert occupy.

I can only imagine the plumbing and property damage that can occur... shudder.

When the mudkip get close to evolution the swampert may allow the breeder to distribute them to other trainers, especially if the swampert are given the chance to evaluate the trainer beforehand.

Relatives

Swampert’s closest relative is axlawful, an endangered and heavily protected species from Anahuac. They can also cross breed with most other amphibians and some aquatic reptiles. Swampert can crossbreed with dragapult despite being separated in time by hundreds of millions of years.

Thanks for sharing, it was a fun read.

 

[K_S]

Stoutland review 4 blitz

Stoutland (Lillipup, Herdier)
Canis huddersfield

Overview

wonder if huddersfiekd is a place or a nod towards then huddking together when cold or somwthing?

Stoutland are a very popular pet in the cooler portions of the world. They are intelligent, low-maintenance, and good with children. Stoutland can even be used as farm laborers in a pinch. Gym challengers can easily obtain a lillipup as a starter and continue using it to the end of the challenge. It can then remain in the household once the challenge is over.

Sounds like a win for dog lovers... why cant Persian be this durable? Makes sad noises.

Stoutland have been imported to Alola, most notably around Paniola to assist in herding.

I'm surprised they don't melt!

They do not fair well in the archipelago. Their long, thick coats were developed to help them survive in mountain ranges and northern areas with long, harsh winters. Tropical lowlands are not good territory for them. While a skilled groomer can keep their hair short, this is expensive and the pokémon tends not to like it.

I can only imagine... but what if a groomer went on a journey? Easy(ish) fix, right?

The process also undercuts their defensive prowess in battle. There are better canine companions in Alola. Eevee are becoming increasingly easy to obtain and most of its evolutions fair better than stoutland in Alola’s heat. Manectric are loyal companions that can also herd livestock if needed. Furfrou and granbull are also fairly low maintenance, health problems aside.

So stout is, theroetically, on the bottem of the dog pile then? The irony.

The species are still great companions, of course, but they struggle in the local climate in ways that other potential team members do not. Ice specialists that already have to figure out ways to keep their pokémon cool can make good use of a stoutland. Most other trainers cannot.

There are currently efforts to crossbreed stoutland with arcanine to produce stoutland that are better suited for warm climates. Some early successes have been reported, but there are not enough hybrids at this time for widespread public distribution.

I'm surprised they aren't paired with say alolan vulpix as a trainer duo battle starter set.

Physiology

Lillipup, herdier, and stoutland are all classified as pure normal types. The designation is mostly uncontroversial. Some taxonomists argue for a secondary ice-typing as the species is well adapted for life in the cold. While stoutland have some limited cryokinesis it is not their preferred means of either battling or maintaining their temperature. As such most taxonomists agree that stoutland does not qualify for an ice-typing.

Lillipup are small canine pokémon. Their coat is long and usually brown, grey, or white. In some captive specimens the coat will grow until it reaches the ground. The remaining purely wild populations tend to have shorter but thicker coats. The most notable feature of lillipup is their facial hair. It is loaded with very sensitive whiskers that can create a radar-like view of the world. The whiskers can even sense ghost-types hiding in the spectral plane.

Thats gotta suck for the ghosts. Powerful undead entiry.. sussed out by facial hair. Is there no dignity?

Herdier’s facial hair retracts to cover their forehead, eyebrows, and muzzle while leaving the rest of the face with only normal fur. On balance they gain a long black coat on their back. The fur in this coat is very dense and can link together to form a sort of armor. It also keeps them very warm, which is important as they leave their parents and venture into the cold on their own.

Though i imagine they woukd be killer in search and rescues in the mountians...

Stoutland have black protective fur covering most of their body. The white facial hair grows out into a moustache that can reach the ground. Stoutland are also a lot wider and bulkier than herdier and lillipup. Some of this mass is fur, but most is not. Stoutland also have an inner eyelid that protects their eyes from impacts. This is useful when running through snow or hailstorms, but their broad paws and inner eyelid can also make them effective at running on sand.

Stoutland can grow to be four feet tall at the withers. They can weigh up to 300 pounds, although most weigh less than 180. Captive specimens can live for up to thirty years. Wild and feral individuals, especially in Alola, do not live nearly as long.

They probably put a new spin on the term "hot dog" I'm shocked they arent banned per cruel and unusual clauses...

Behavior

Wild stoutland can still be found in portions of the Crown Tundra, Scandanavia, and Siberia. Despite thousands of years of domestication these populations are physically similar due to continued interbreeding between wild, feral, and captive specimens.

Stoutland mate for life. In cold climates they will usually hunt separately, especially if there are lillipup or the female is pregnant. Stoutland can use their powerful legs and broad paws to chase down prey over the snow. Alternatively, they can use their whiskers to sense creatures hidden by snow, dirt, or foliage and then strike at the hidden prey. Stoutland are not the largest creatures in their home range but their tenacity and durable coat let them take on creatures even larger than they are.

Its weird that they aren't pack animals in my mind.

Wild lillipup seldom stray far from their parents. The stoutland’s fur can keep their children warm. The parents will also dig a deep burrow under the snow or dirt for their puppies to take shelter in. As the lillipup grow older they may be brought along for hunts or territorial patrols.

Territorial disputes between stoutland tend to be resolved by moustache length: the stoutland with the largest moustache will get whatever territory (and mate) it wants. Lesser dogs will have to settle for smaller territories and less powerful mates. Biological sex and dominance have little to do with each other: either can be the dominant stoutland in an area and have their choice of mates.

Lillipup are forced out by their parents as they near evolution. The new herdier will typically form packs of six to twelve individuals. Packs tend to hunt together. Herdier are quite clever. They can set up ambushes formed either of other herdier lying in wait or crudely made traps of pitfalls and sticks.

I stand corrected about the lack of pack tactics... pit traps... nothing like some nightmare fuel when reading about mustache dogs.

All wild stoutland in Alola are recently introduced ferals. The wild population has been observed breeding, but it is not believed that the current population is self-sustaining in the long term. Herdier in particular struggle to keep up active hunting strategies while overheating. Stoutland can at least easily dig up roots and buried prey to eat. In the wild shrubs and roots are only a small portion of stoutland’s diet in the north. In Alola it seems to constitute about thirty to forty percent of biomass consumed.

Wild stoutland are known to be fond of people. They may have begun hunting with humans as far back as fifty thousand years ago, although their proper domestication did not occur until much later. Wild stoutland will happily rescue any human they see in trouble. Sometimes this courtesy even extends to pokémon who could have been prey if the stoutland was hungrier. Attacks on humans are vanishingly rare and almost entirely attributable to rabies.

Husbandry

Stoutland are fairly standard canines. Their diet can be composed exclusively most pre-prepared canine mixes. They can easily be trained to use a litter box, or at least to only defecate and urinate outside. Walks are greatly appreciated. A stoutland without sufficient exercise can become very rambunctious. At their size they can unintentionally damage property while riled up.

Stoutland have a few advantages over other canines. Not even lillipup bark or yap without very good reason, making them a quiet dog good for tenants. Stoutland also do not shed. In spite of this managing their hair is easily the hardest part of their husbandry. Herdier and stoutland have fur that acts as a sort of armor. It can be very difficult to trim without hurting the pokémon. Grooming is best left to professionals. While stoutland hair can be allowed to grow out this will cause the pokémon to overheat in the Alolan sun

I wonder if the mons fur could be used as a biodegradable kevlar knock off?

. Outside of regular trimming session the hair will need to be regularly brushed to prevent knotting.

All stages are very social. They are known for having bad separation anxiety when removed from trusted humans or teammates. On balance, herdier and stoutland they are quite good with caring for children and other pokémon. The line is very intelligent: even lillipup are as smart as human toddlers. Stoutland have the equivalent intelligence of a ten-year-old child. A stoutland is undyingly loyal to the people it is attached to. Those without the pokémon’s trust will struggle to get it to listen. Any abuse or neglect is remembered and will be held against the trainer for years to come. Affection and care are likewise remembered and rewarded.

Illness

Stoutland are prone to most canine diseases. Rabies vaccination is mandatory for all lillipup within three weeks of capture or birth. Tick, flea, and worm medications are readily available from all pokémon supply stores.

Digestive tract issues are particularly common in stoutland. They are prone to constipation, diarrhea, and vomiting. These symptoms are especially likely after a change in diet. Care should be taken to phase in any dietary changes slowly. In the event of diarrhea make sure to provide the pokémon with plenty of fluids and a cool place to rest.

Many newborn lillipup suffer from low blood sugar. If feedings are not frequent enough health problems can quickly arise. This is most common in hang-raised lillipup but can occur in specimens raised by their mother, especially if the mother has not had a role model to teach her the ropes of motherhood. Sluggishness can be hard to spot right away as lillipup are not particularly active while nursing. Glassy eyes are the first readily observable symptom, at least in puppies that have opened their eyes (see Breeding). Make sure that these puppies are immediately fed and then closely monitored until they are old enough to eat solid food.

Evolution

As lillipup grow older their black coat begins to grow in. Stoutland will ordinarily begin to reject their offspring once the first black hairs appear. The formal demarcation line for evolution is the growth of a full coat of black fur. This usually occurs around the sixteen-month mark.

Herdier continue to grow as they age. Their black coat grows as they do. The formal demarcation line between herdier and stoutland is either sexual maturity or the growth of a moustache at least half a meter long, whichever comes first. This usually occurs around the twenty-five month mark in captivity or the thirty month mark in the wild.

Battle

Stoutland are durable with a special ability to sense and strike ghosts. Their support movepool is small but functional with moves such as thunder wave and helping hand. None of this is quite enough to save them on the competitive circuits. Many top trainers have a stoutland as a personal or family pet, but they will rarely bring the pokémon to their serious matches. They are simply outclassed by other normal types. Between tauros, miltank, bouffalant, bewear, kangaskhan, and snorlax there are no real niches left for stoutland to fill. Even stoutland’s armored fur is an incomplete defense as the coat does not extend to the face.

None of this is to say that stoutland are weak. They emphatically are not. But trainers with a great deal of time, resources, and assistance will almost always pick the stronger pokémon to fill a slot on their main roster.

A stoutland can easily stay competitive up to the end of the island challenge. Their size and strength let them hit hard enough to damage even the late totems that are not inclined to hold back or surrender. Herdier and stoutland’s fur can take most physical hits, although they must play around strikes to the face. Stoutland even has solid coverage options in stomping tantrum, crunch, and the elemental fangs. Many of those options can be taught even without TMs.

So if stoutland fur was groomed just right could it be shaped like a helm to offer protection for said face? I mean the rules of anime hair have gotta extend to the canine's fur, right?

Herdier are durable. While they hit less hard than stoutland they can still deal decent damage and outpace many slower opponents. Their tenacity can also let them pull through a few matches they might otherwise be at a disadvantage in.

Lillipup are courageous against any opponent they believe they stand a chance against, no matter how slim. If they believe there is no chance they will turn tail and attempt to flee. Hyping the pokémon up before battles and walking through planned strategies helps bolster their confidence. Lillipup, like its evolutions, functions best as a bulky attacker that can take a few hits and deal decent damage in return. Be cautious, though, as lillipup do not have a full coat of protective fur to help them take hits to their back.

Acquisition

Feral populations can be found around Paniola Town on Akala Island. Capture of lillipup is allowed with a Class I license, although it is best to catch one that has already been rejected by its parents. Herdier and stoutland capture is handled by the DNR. Simply put wild herdier and stoutland have a difficult time adjusting to new trainers and they are not suitable for capture. The line are frequently available from both breeders and shelters.

Breeders present the opportunity to raise a lillipup from a young age and form a particularly close bond. Many shelters also have herdier and stoutland that outgrew their old apartment homes or were surrendered due to the cost of feeding and grooming them. These pokémon start off stronger and are often grateful to the trainer who got them out of the shelter.

All three stages can be purchased or adopted with a Class I license.

Out of all the mon, you wrote about I think this canine, is the only level 1 for all its forms...

Breeding

Stoutland mate for life. They do not have a standard breeding season and usually make another litter as soon as the last one has been kicked out. After a five-week pregnancy the female will give birth to about six pups. The male and female will then diligently watch over their children until they come close to evolution, at which point the offspring will be kicked out to pave the way for a new litter. Stoutland in the wild and captivity have also been known to adopt orphaned lillipup and, on occasion, babies of other canine species. There are old legends in Europe of future heroes being abandoned in the wilderness and raised by stoutland.

I can hear Rose, and half of Galar losing thier mind...

It is relatively easy to breed stoutland in captivity. If they accept a mate they will periodically produce litters. The older lillipup can then be given away to other trainers without issue. Stoutland have been known to cross breed with most canines, especially true dogs and wolves.

Stoutland with offspring of their own will put less time and attention towards helping raise teammates and children in their household. Trainers should keep this in mind when deciding if they want to breed their stoutland or not. A childless stoutland will happily babysit human children or make sure other pokémon have their needs met.

Relatives

Stoutland’s closest living relatives are boltund and furfrou, other dogs domesticated in Europe. While stoutland have always been more dominant in the northern reaches of Europe, the other dogs became more popular in the warmer areas around the Mediterranean. Over time boltund became associated with Galar, furfrou with Kalos, and stoutland with Russia. Wild populations of stoutland can still be found across much of montane or temperate Europe. Feral populations can now be found across much of the globe.

There are a few breeds of stoutland made by crossbreeding with other canines. The most common is the regal stoutland, made by crossing with furfrou. Despite having even longer fur the regal stoutland is actually more tolerant of warm weather. Its fur is also much better as wool. The large size combined with usable wool makes them a niche farm animal in parts of Europe. Crosses with boltund can produce the Wyndon stoutland. The fur of Wyndon stoutland is often repulsed from the body, making them appear much larger than they actually are. This has the side effect of dramatically reducing their cold tolerance.

The Wyndon soutland feels like a case of "I can make him worse" with bells on.

More niche crosses include the static stoutland, a similar cross with manectric that is much smaller but better able to control electric energies. The plains, Mongolian or royal stoutland is an attempted cross with arcanine for use in colder areas. This is one of the few crossbreeds that is larger than a purebred stoutland. They have much thinner fur and better endurance than purebred stoutland as well.

While stoutland can interbreed with other canines those crossbreeds are not routinely bred for and are the result of individual pokémon taking an interest in each other. This is far more common in captivity than in the wild. Stoutland have been observed mating with most canines, with a few exceptions. Species that select mates based in part on intelligence (zoroark, ninetales, lucario, espeon, sylveon) are often reluctant to settle for a creature they perceive as juvenile at best.

Thanks for sharing this exploration into doggo superiority (grumbles, as I am a CAT person thank you very much) it was quite the trip.

 

[K_S]

Hi here for the pyrukumuku review...

PyukumukuMendicus quinonardet

Overview

Pyukumuku are an iconic feature of Central Pacific beaches, even if they are not always a welcome one.

I mean theyre evil sea cucumber right? I can see the hesitence.

These echinoderms live in the tidal zone. At high tide they engage in a mix of filter feeding and scavenging in the surf. When the tides roll out, the pyukumuku partially bury themselves in the sand and wait for the sea to return. Absent stranding by particularly strong waves, pyukumuku do not need humans to throw them back into the water. They are perfectly happy where they are and will even crawl back to their usual position in time.

Humans, however, do not like to see their beaches crowded with strange, slimy creatures.

If theres an environ that humans want "strange slimey creatures," let me know.

The exact origins of pyukumuku tossing are disputed. Native Alolans claim it was always a children’s game. This may be true. Children have always dared each other to touch slimy creatures. Most scholars agree that the practice began in earnest with Buddhist immigrants throwing the pyukumuku back to the waves as a form of life release. This inspired the resort owners in the fledgling tourist industry to pay to have their beaches cleared. Some owners paid extra to have the pyukumuku dumped on their rival’s property

Life release? Not familiar with that one? The rest (unfortunatly fo the rival beach thing) feel both modern and fitting.

.

This has given pyukumuku a reputation as a worthless, disgusting pokémon. Many trainers are turned away by their mucus coating and rejection of physical affection. They also lack direct offensive presence. However, trainers willing to play to pyukumuku’s strengths can find them to be both effective and low maintenance.

Saddly with this verse low maintinance is a shining standard. Though that doesnt ususaly mean "safe" or "unlikely to kill you if it sneezes" in this universe.

Pyukumuku are top tier walls and disruptors with surprising intelligence. They can catch many opponents off guard early in the challenge and still have a role to play to its end.

Physiology

Pyukumuku are classified as pure water-types. Some scholars argue for a secondary poison-typing to reflect their primary natural defenses. This has been opposed most aggressively by tourism industry trade groups that do not want Alola’s beaches associated with an abundance of poison-types.

Love how the Alola industries are like "no nope" and the sciejce comunities are like "but it seeps poison 24/7", and the mojey makers just shovel into that sand bank harder.

More scientific cases against the typing are centered on their resistance to psionic and seismic damage, both unusual among poison types but reasonable for a sand-dwelling echinoderm.

Pyukumuku appear to have primarily bilateral symmetry at a glance. This is very unusual for an echinoderm, a group that includes sea stars and is known for their five-fold symmetry. Submerged pyukumuku draw more water into their body and have clearer five-fold symmetry. They have five prominent ridges running down their body under the mucus. These contain nerve clusters. Pyukumuku have ten sets of calcareous plates acting as teeth behind their mouth. The bottom three lines contain tube feet, small tentacles that let them walk along the sand or grip into it.

Most sea cucumbers have a separate mouth and anus. Pyukumuku do not. They instead have a mouth leading into one central stomach. The stomach can be ejected as needed. Most of the time pyukumuku simply passively ingest food brought to their mouth by the currents. Sometimes they will walk to a smaller morsel and eat it. Larger chunks of food are consumed by ejecting their stomach onto the prey.

And even though this is a mon story... sea cucumbers continue to be one of the most terrorfying things in the depths. "Ejects stomach" he says, like its nothing. (Shiver)

Smaller tendrils along the stomach wall can be manipulated to grip the food before bringing it into the core body. Some trainers have taught their pokémon to manipulate individual tendrils to form the shape of a fist and even perform imitated hand gestures.

I imagine there was some rules as to what gestures were allowed after the fiest televised tourney when a sore loser told his pyu' to "release the bird".

Pyukumuku’s nervous system is primarily focused in a ring around the mouth. The nerve clusters on the ridges link the mouth to the rest of the body. They may also store information. Pyukumuku that lose large chunks of their central nervous system seem to retain past knowledge after it regenerates. This is currently the subject of a great deal of scientific curiosity.

Pyukumuku have a crude endoskeleton consisting of calcareous ossicles linked by connective tissue. This loose structure, combined with their ability to relax their body’s collagen, allows pyukumuku to bend around almost any hit and flow through any opening wider than about a third of an inch.

On land pyukumuku emit a thick black mucus over their entire body. The mucus has been shown to prevent sunburn. It is also generally unappetizing and makes them difficult to swallow. Only wimpod regularly attempt to prey upon them on land. Wimpod can be easily scared away by ejecting the stomach. When attacked underwater, pyukumuku emit a cloud of holothurin that can kill or disorient almost anything nearby.

While pyukumuku lack an anus in the typical sense, they do have a secondary opening used for respiration and reproduction. Water is drawn in through the anus as it is expelled from the mouth. The water passes by both circulatory systems and provides them with oxygen. Pyukumuku have both blood, which flows through the surface layers, and coelomic fluid that powers most of their movement and protects the organs. The two fluids are nearly identical but do not mix.

I can only imagine all the crying this critters complicated physiologist caused biologists at the disection table.

Pyukumuku can reach lengths of sixteen inches. Very large specimens can weigh eight pounds, although three is more typical. Wild lifespans are poorly understood. Captive specimens regularly live to three years but can live up to fifteen.

Behavior

Pyukumuku do very little in the course of an average day. At high tide they may passively feed by drawing in water and straining out larger pieces of debris. Alternatively, they may approach and eat larger chunks of decomposing or otherwise stationary and defenseless organic matter such as sponges. A very hungry pyukumuku may attempt to hunt by ejecting their stomach onto something that swims nearby. This can lead to serious damage to the stomach if the surprise attack fails.

During low tide pyukumuku secret mucus, anchor themselves in place, and do nothing until the tide returns or they are attacked by a known predator. They will not move to defend themselves from perceived non-lethal threats such as humans picking them up.

Pyukumuku have some sense of spatial awareness and will crawl back to their favored spot over the course of hours or days after being removed. This can sometimes cause problems when beach restoration projects or seawalls result in their preferred location being permanently above the high tide line. Most pyukumuku will stubbornly continue to return to a home no longer able to sustain them.

Husbandry

Pyukumuku are surprisingly intelligent for sea cucumbers. If they were not it would be nearly impossible to train them in any meaningful sense. Pyukumuku can come to recognize their trainer’s voice and even basic commands. With patience and another pokémon mentoring them they can be taught a good array of status moves, although pyukumuku are either unable or unwilling to deal direct damage beyond the release of poison or their stomach.

While they can survive on land for days, pyukumuku greatly prefer being submerged in warm, shallow seawater. Pokémon Center holding pools serve this purpose well. On longer trips pyukumuku trainers may need to either stay near the coast or invest in expensive specialty pokéballs for marine organisms. Thankfully, staying near the coast is usually not difficult in Alola.

Pyukumuku will only eat while submerged. Passive feeding setups are usually more trouble than they’re worth when they will happily eat algae or animal remains put in front of them. Pyukumuku will stop eating when they are no longer hungry. Excess food should then be removed to avoid fouling the water.

Enrichment is probably unnecessary. They are relatively intelligent but have rarely been documented engaging with toys or puzzles. In battle they rarely innovate and simply follow instincts or their trainer’s commands. There is some evidence that they actively dislike novel stimuli.

How would they show that dislike of stimuli though, they're so alien?

Almost all teammates work with pyukumuku in the sense that they will not interact with each other. Pyukumuku may need to be fed separately due to their slow speed. Pyukumuku can be held in tanks with conspecifics so long as adequate food is provided. In the wild they are known to live in large aggregations. They do not seem to acknowledge each other in any way.

Illness

Pyukumuku should not be regularly handled. Oils on human skin can disturb theirs. Brief, occasional contact is unlikely to result in harm.

Pyukumuku are reasonably hardy. They live near coasts, and often in estuarine waters, and have some tolerance for changes in temperature and salinity. Water temperatures beneath 70 degrees Fahrenheit can result in hypothermia and respiratory problems. Infections rarely develop as wounds are immediately coated in mucus and often stitched back together in minutes.

There are viral and bacterial illnesses that affect pyukumuku. These are very poorly understood and no cures are known. Specimens that produce unusual stool or refuse to eat should be immediately isolated from conspecifics.

Evolution

Juvenile pyukumuku are more likely to wander than adults but have much the same shape. No evolutionary stages are recognized.

Battle

A surprising number of pokémon have essentially no way to meaningfully damage pyukumuku. They can almost instantly heal shallow cuts. Blunt force attacks can’t break organs or bones as pyukumuku barely have anything resembling either. Psionic attacks struggle to pierce their odd mental structure. Piercing damage, deep cuts, and elemental attacks can wear them down. If a pyukumuku is sent out against an opponent that can’t damage then, they can use block to lock their opponent into the match and then use a mix of spite and toxic to wear them down while recover keeps them healthy. It is a simple but effective strategy.

I know this breaks types but sunny day to dry out sounds devistating for thos critter...

Alternatively, taunt can be used to shut down walls or keep opponents from setting up hazards or other effects on them during the lull in battle.

At high levels of play pyukumuku are quite rare. They can be devastating in certain circumstances, but at high levels it just becomes far more likely that offensive pokémon have some tool available to deal with pyukumuku. The best stall trainers have tricks for dealing with trappers and toxic users.

On the island challenge pyukumuku can serve as an effective finisher against later totems. Other teammates can knock out pokémon that could be a problem for the sea cucumber. Then, when only one wallable opponent is left, pyukumuku can be sent out to slowly secure victory.

Acquisition

Some properties pay trainers to remove pyukumuku from their beachfront. Captured pyukumuku are all the better as that specimen will not come crawling back within a week. They can safely be released and are locally abundant so adoption or purchase opportunities are extremely rare. Pyukumuku can be captured with a Class II license. Temporary possession for no more than twenty-four hours is permitted with a Class I license to allow for pyukumuku to be moved further away from their preferred perch.

Breeding

Male pyukumuku broadcast spawn during full moons as the tide begins to come in. Females filter out sperm from the water inhaled through the anus and move it to their reproductive organs. They give live birth to as many as 150 juveniles after two weeks. Juvenile mortality is extremely high as the newborn pokémon are less than a tenth of an inch in diameter.

Captive breeding has been achieved using chemical injections to induce spawning. They are a common model organism in laboratories and are a niche food in some parts of China and Japan. Pyukumuku were occasionally eaten by native Alolans. They have become less common in sushi as they have become regarded as vermin.

Relatives

Pyukumuku are found throughout the islands of the Central Pacific. They do not reach the continental shelves. As echinoderms they are distant relatives of starmie and toxapex. Their exact lineage is currently unknown. They are the only sea cucumber pokémon to commonly be found in the mid-Pacific. Some writers have even suggested that they evolved directly from base animals. It is difficult to prove or disprove this hypothesis as the bodies of sea cucumbers are poorly preserved in the fossil record. It is difficult to establish direct relation, or whether a given species was a pokémon, from the fossilized tracks they leave behind.

I found it hilarious that theres a "make it go away!" Clause that lets level 1 trainers able to handle and release these guys just to make buisnesses happy. I can imagine jr. Trainers going up... like in a class, learning how to toss and throw pokeballs, and then p.e. is a long nature walk to the release point.

Thanks for sharing.

 

[K_S]

Here to apple for a new blitz review, lets gwt started...

pplin (Flapple, Appletun)
Divinimalum acutitesta

Overview

Myths of a source of knowledge and/or immortality guarded by flapple and appletun date back to at least 2500 BCE. In the earlier versions, gardens, mountains, or other domains of an ancient, powerful god were featured. Later on the garden morphed into a library. Several cultures made the myths into reality by building grand libraries and rearing applin in the courtyards.

I was anticilating this being one heck of an adam eve rewrite, but academia themed apples, alright?

The most famous of these libraries were in Alexandria and Babylon, although others were built in Persepolis, Jerusalem, Rome, Nineveh, and Athens. In the medieval and modern eras few people seriously believed that an applin-guarded divine oracle or long-lost library was to be found.

I mean all those apples were probabky keeling dr.s away, right? Curious at the sheer skepticism tilted towarss the old belief system though, it jarred me a bit out of the scientific/impartial read of the paper a bit...

Still the lore around flapple and appletun as guardians of knowledge and health, respectively, ensured that they would remain common fixtures in universities and monasteries.

Upon being introduced to South and Central America, applin had to search for a new host fruit due to the initial lack of apples. They ultimately found one in the pinap berry. The descendants of the first applin introduced to the new world ultimately became the tropical flapple and appletun.

I'm imagining a pineapple flapple with the skill rough skin...

While they were long banned from Alola due to their potential impact on the pinap plantations, the declining importance of the crop has led to a relaxation of the ban in recent years. Today a handful of defunct plantations have been turned into tourist attractions revolving around pinap-clad dragons.

Neither flapple nor appletun are particularly difficult to care for. While they are far from the most powerful of dragons, both are quite capable of keeping up through the end of the Island Challenge.

So basically dragon types for beginiers (awaits the horror story to come).

Physiology

All stages of the evolutionary line are classified as dual grass- and dragon-types. Applin’s grass typing is often disputed as their berries are merely homes and disguises, not a part of their body. Still, applin can release chemicals that manipulate the berry

gotta admit thats quite a pressing quandry, being able to manipulate its planty bits speaks of a synbiotic relationship, i guess the tie breaker would be if it could live outside its berry or not...

. Some scholars contend that appletun or flapple should have, respectively, a poison or psychic typing due to their venom and telekinesis. There are good cases to be made for these typings. Dragon-types are often capable of wielding many different types of elemental attacks, so there is a standing policy to keep the designated dragon typing when more than two typings are plausible. Grass remains the best secondary typing for flapple as they are physically fused with a plant. Appletun’s venom and poisons are plant derived.

Juvenile applin are small green lizards with short legs and a large pseudo head. Applin’s actual head is located below two large green stalks with eye spots. The eye spots are only capable of detecting light and movement; their actual mouth and eyes are located just below it. When predators strike for the head they are far more likely to hit the pseudo head than the actual one. Even by pokémon standards applin heal non-lethal wounds very quickly. Complete destruction of the tail or pseudo head can be healed within ten days.

Applin primarily live inside of their host pinap berry. Very large berries are created by appletun and flapple (see Breeding) for applin to live in. Shortly after birth applin will dig into a berry. Special chemicals secreted by applin prevent the fruit from rotting. Applin will fully consume up to five berries, steadily growing each time.

Flapple fuse with their final berry and use the chemically hardened peel as armor and a disguise. The pseudo-head stalks remain but are now primarily yellow with a small black dot in the center. This can make the stalks look like a seed. As with applin these stalks contain eye spots and are useful for detecting wind currents, but are not the true eyes. Those are small and located near the stalk’s base. A set of crown-like horns juts from flapple’s head. The tips can secrete mild bromelain-based venom that can cause chemical burns to organic material. Flapple’s feet each have hairs that allow them to grip onto trees and other substances. Each arm and leg is also attached to a broad but thin slice of the original fruit’s husk. The lizards use these segments to glide from tree to tree.

The segments are also good for exploiting one of flapple’s signature abilities: vertical telekinesis, or gravity control.

I know theyre invasive plant parasites but they sound adorable.

Several pokémon have a unique sort of telekinesis that has the effect of increasing, decreasing, or even reversing gravity in a certain area. Whether this ability actually warps a fundamental law of the universe or merely exerts telekinetic pressure to mimic the effect is presently a subject of fierce debate. In any case the combination of lowered gravity effects and high vertical air resistance can let flapple glide for up to 700 feet.

Thats quite a glide. Do they migrate?

Appletun are substantially bulkier and less agile than their counterpart and base form. Their heads are covered in a hard yellow dome that protects their brains, eyes, and ears. Only the strongest pokémon can pierce the dome outright, although some smarter pokémon realize that the bottom of appletun’s head is much less durable. The main section of appletun’s body is dominated by its massive swollen back. Much of the back is actually hardened armor. In stable environments some is usually left hollow. In areas with more variable conditions appletun will usually keep the otherwise empty spaces full of reserves of sugar and water.

Tipsnhead... its like a pastry themed camel. But does it taste like apple pie?

Predators that can pierce or circumvent appletun’s armor must deal with their secondary line of defense: venom and poison. Both are bromelain based and extremely concentrated. Unless prepared in a specific way, appletun flesh can be lethally toxic to humans and most organic pokémon.

Well that answers that.

Bromelain is a digestive enzyme that, combined with other chemicals in the acid, causes flesh to start breaking down on contact. Appletun can also spit this acid as venom and cause chemical burns or even decomposition.

Appletun are perhaps better known for a second substance they produce. Around the crown on top of their back appletun sometimes secrete sap. This sap is very sweet and, when diluted, is a common ingredient in high-end candies and baked goods. In higher concentrations it can also serve as a disinfectant. This, combined with appletun’s long lifespan, probably contributed to their mythical status as guardians of immortality

I'm surprised they weren't consiered the guardians of mordern meds for the disinfect perk...

.

Flapple typically grow up to five feet long and can weigh up to thirty pounds. Appletun grow up to five feet long and can weigh up to three hundred pounds when full. Flapple typically live eight to eleven years. It is difficult to gauge appletun’s lifespan because by the time one dies of natural causes the records of their birth have almost always been lost.

In eight years the data gets lost?

Behavior

Applin do very little. When one berry is almost exhausted, they will briefly leave their old home behind and find another. In the meantime, they digest the inside of the berry and produce chemicals to harden the outside, signal their presence to conspecifics, and prevent rot.

Flapple are arboreal year-round in the tropics. They rest in the high branches of trees at night and jump between them in the day to find food, escape prey, or play with other pokémon. Flapple are insectivores and use their keen sense of hearing to detect insect colonies inside of trees.

Cue beedrill and butterfree having support groups about hiding from apple trees because of these guys...

The horn is then used to penetrate the bark before flapple lap up small bugs with their long tongue. Small bug-type pokémon can also fall prey, either by being physically overpowered or through a clever strategy. Flapple will often leap above potential prey while carrying a rock or hard seed or fruit. Their gravity manipulation powers are then used to launch the object beneath them and strike small or poorly armored animals or pokémon. The flapple will then descend to the ground, use their acids to start partially dissolving the meal, and then use their tongue and teeth to lap up the liquified parts and chew the remaining solid bits.

Once in a while a curious flapple will descend closer to the ground to observe humans or other species. Sometimes they play games with other flapple, pokémon, animals, or people. This curiosity and the ingenuity of their hunting method likely earned them their reputation for cleverness and knowledge.

I'm surprised it hasn't earned them a loki esk mischief reputation.

Appletun live exclusively on the forest floor. Most of their time is spent grazing on grasses and shrubs. Despite being grass-types merged with a plant, appletun struggle to produce their own chlorophyll and prefer to steal chlorophyll or sucrose from other plants. When they are not seeking out food or water, appletun are typically sunning themselves or sleeping. At night appletun burrow a few inches into the ground to protect their underside from attack. In temperate climes appletun almost entirely submerge themselves in dirt during the winter. Once in a great while an appletun will engage with something curious in their environment. While they live in large social groups (especially when compared to the mostly solitary flapple), appletun almost never interact with nearby conspecifics.

Is a groupnof flapple considered an orchid? Or a bakery for the pie based evolution?

Husbandry

Applin are best left undisturbed in a warm, moist area. They do not typically interact with their surroundings and are best left alone in the presence of another berry to move into as needed. Many trainers who own an applin leave them at a breeder until evolution as applin react poorly to pokéballs. The pokémon itself is not merged with the berry and every time it is withdrawn it is taken out of its food source and home. Flapple and appletun do not form any especially strong bonds with trainers who watched over them as an applin.

Flapple are very energetic pokémon with reasonable intelligence and high curiosity. This can make them resource and time intensive to care for. Still, they are highly unlikely to harm their trainer or cause extensive property damage. This qualifies them as one of the easier dragon-types to care for.

Stationary trainers should design at least one room to be flapple friendly. This space should have several hiding or climbing places off the ground at different heights. At least one fifteen-foot gliding alley should be established. A heat lamp will be needed. Natural or very good artificial sunlight exposure is necessary for regenerating their plant-based body parts. Ideally several toys will be provided and rotated out once the pokémon gets bored with them.

Traveling trainers or those without resources to build a dedicated flapple enclosure can still keep the species so long as sufficient play opportunities are presented. Visits to forested parks, especially ones the flapple has not been to before, are good for entertainment. The bunk beds in most Pokémon Center rooms can also keep a flapple occupied for a while. Games involving vertical and horizontal space such as games of catch or frisbee in a forested area or near buildings can also work. Some flapple enjoy climbing on their trainers. They should be allowed to do this for bonding and enrichment.

I bet flapple pick the tallest trainers sonthey get the best jumps in.

Flapple are not easily housebroken but can be gradually taught to use a litter box or pan. A large pan placed on the floor of a flapple enclosure is usually the best way to do this: the pokémon can come to see it as a game to hit the pan while gliding above it. The early housebreaking process is often quite messy and a large tarp should be laid down over the pan. Litter boxes placed at elevation and designed to mimic a tree hollow are sometimes used. In any case it is easiest if another lizard teaches the flapple where to go.

Most commercial insect mixes are good for flapple, with whole bug-types provided as an occasional treat. They are greedy and will overeat if allowed to do so. Daily intake should be limited to 5% to 10% of body weight, depending upon how often injuries must be healed. Flapple are strongly averse to pokéball confinement.

Appletun are comparatively subdued. Enrichment can be limited to shell stroking and the occasional introduction of balls or other simple toys. Please note that sticky or sharp areas of the shell should not be petted. The underside of appletun’s head and neck are very good stroking spots for trusting appletun. Heat lamps and/or sun balls are highly recommended, although appletun are usually quite comfortable living outside in Alola. Fencing should extend beneath the ground as appletun enjoy digging and will sometimes accidentally escape from their home. Be aware that appletun will often attempt to dig burrows outside. Trainers concerned with pitfalls in their yard should fill any burrows with stone after they are discovered.

Most of appletun’s day in the wild is spent searching for food. Even in captivity appletun should be given a few hours a day to eat leafy greens or forage under the sun. At night pokéball use is perfectly acceptable, although some appletun prefer to cuddle with their trainers. Trainers wishing to do so should be advised that appletun will often try to burrow into the mattress at night. The pokémon are also prone to urinating or defecating whenever they want as walking all the way to a litter box and back can seem like an unnecessary hassle for a slow-moving species.

Appletun feel a little like skowpoke and thier flying kin feel like slobro. I wonder what makes thier i.q.s so different?

Appletun trainers will also need to consider where the pokémon shall live upon its trainer’s death. This alone can make them more of a hassle to care for than the energetic but short-lived flapple.

Illness

Most flapple illnesses result in daytime lethargy or a loss of appetite. If these symptoms manifest the environment should first be assessed. Has the flapple been unusually cold recently? Trips to the mountains or even excessive air conditioning can cause respiratory infections or other illnesses. Rectal tract blockage or pain from a recent injury can also result in a loss of appetite or apparent illness. If cool weather can be ruled out the flapple should be taken to a veterinarian at the first opportunity.

Most appletun problems stem from either respiratory infections or prolapsed organs. Respiratory infections often have visible symptoms such as discharges from the eye, nose, or mouth. Routine anorexia or lethargy can also be symptoms. Unfortunately, appletun respiratory infections can be difficult to treat and may not heal for several months even if caught early. In the worst cases they can be fatal.

Organ prolapse occurs when there is too much of a buildup of the species’ non-water-soluble uric acid. The hard mass of urea will accidentally press tissue or even entire organs out of the cloaca. These organs can wither or even rot outside of the body. Do not attempt to reinsert these tissues. Go to a veterinarian at the first possible opportunity. Keep the appletun in its pokéball as much as possible, even if they must be withdrawn for several days. In an emergency appletun can go for some time without eating.

Given applin’s general lack of visible behaviors it is extremely difficult to notice their illnesses. Even attempting to observe symptoms can cause undue stress. As such most applin illnesses become fatal before they are noticed at all.

Evolution

Once applin are sufficiently grown they enter their final berry. Rather than consuming it they begin to physically merge with the fruit. Over the course of several weeks the fusion will be completed before the new flapple or appletun emerge. New flapple appear when the husk begins cracking into distinct segments. The flapple will uncurl and rush off, the reptilian body now exposed. Appletun take longer to evolve. Their head and legs slowly begin to poke out through the newly hardened fruit. Even after they begin to move it can take months before the tail is fully developed and the shell reaches its final appearance.

Flapple grow for about eighteen months after evolution. It takes newly evolved appletun over three decades to reach their final size.

Battle

Applin should not be battled with. They find the experience jarring and are unlikely to do much of anything in their own defense.

Snorts but i always wanted to throw a screaming apple at someone...

Flapple are relatively fast attackers. When offensively pressured by an opponent they cannot avoid they will curl up so that their armor forms a complete berry-shaped shield. Unfortunately, flapple’s greatest advantage, gliding, is very limited in most arenas. Even between gravity control and dragon dance flapple can struggle to maneuver in the air. Clever tactics and a lucky set up can allow for sweeping amateur teams but at the professional level flapple struggles to find a niche against larger, fully flighted dragons.

They sound they could be terors in doubles tho. Especially of paired with something tall, like an alolan eggsecute...

Appletun is a solid grass-type wall. Their shell is remarkably resistant to even heat damage and very short cold shocks can be shrugged off. While opponents struggle to break through their shell, appletun can spew acidic spit to wear the opponent down or use recovery moves to repair minor damage. Despite their bulk, appletun suffer three major weaknesses. First, appletun spit can only go so far. All other offensive attacks are a little lacking. This makes appletun struggle in matchups against ranged attackers. Second, appletun are near helpless if something manages to knock them on their side. Third, appletun acid only works on organic pokémon. Ghosts and steel-types can present potentially insurmountable challenges to appletun. Still, against organic melee attackers appletun is a very solid wall that has seen some use on competitive circuits.

i'm now imagining people tipping 'turns for giggles in the Alolan sticks...

Acquisition

Wild applin, flapple, and appletun populations have yet to properly establish themselves. Currently the only members of the species in Alola are owned by game parks, universities and other schools, former plantations, and private trainers. Every institution has its own rules for capture. The Royal Trainer’s School allows students to capture a single applin for their own use. Game preserves often allow capture opportunities for a price. Plantations will usually sell them outright or offer them as prizes for paid competitions. For the average person routine adoption or purchase is the easiest way to get a member of the line.

Applin and Appletun require a Class I license to adopt or purchase. Flapple require a Class III license to possess.

Breeding

The evolutions of applin reproduce in two ways. The first is the creation of suitable berries. Appletun and flapple can chemically alter pinap berries with their saliva, causing them to grow far larger but more toxic. Appletun-nourished berries usually cause an applin who fuses with it to become an appletun. Flapple-nourished berries always produce more flapple. Flapple’s higher nourishment and reproduction rate ensures that where flapple are well-suited there will be a comparative abundance of them. A small population of the more durable appletun will always remain to potentially restart the species in the area if the flapple population dies off due to short term stress.

Flapple mate after elaborate gliding displays. The father immediately leaves. About six weeks later the mother will set down near pinap berries, dig a burrow, and deposit roughly a dozen eggs into the burrow before covering it back up. The new applin will emerge and seek out nourished berries to dig into.

Appletun mating is comparatively casual. The male will mount the female and insert his phallus into her cloaca. In roughly fifteen months three dozen eggs will be laid and buried. The male and female will take turns guarding the eggs until they hatch after another three months.

Flapple and appletun produced applin are nearly identical and can evolve into either, even if there is a much higher probability of evolution into their parent’s form.

Relatives

The temperate, Eurasian, or original applin (D. newtoni) are native to a stretch of land between Central Asia and Western Europe. The one notable exception is Kalos. During the Kalosian revolution flapple was placed on the state seal and were deliberately introduced to “People’s Orchards” around the region. When the counter-revolution came and the Enlightenment-loving revolutionary government was removed from power, the Archbishop of the Church of Life ordered the gathering of every apple, flapple, and appletun in the region to Lumiose. They were all held in one central pen and lit on fire in front of thousands of onlookers. The Church has stridently lobbied against any attempts to allow applin into the country again. In mainland Europe radical leftists still embrace applin as a symbol of their movement.

Temperate applin bond to apples over pinap berries. As a result they are slightly smaller and produce a cyanide-based acid instead of bromelain. They also only have a single spike on their crown. Temperate flapple dig underground and enter brumation in the winters. The appletun bury almost their entire body before hibernating. Temperate appletun are surprisingly cold resistant and can tolerate having the upper portions of their shell exposed through a Northern European or Central Asian winter.

Pinap applin, occasionally abbreviated as pinapplin, live in most of the tropical rainforests of the New World. They have also been introduced to India and Indonesia. Neither are so dominant in their new homes to present a serious ecological problem. The locals have even become fond of them as appletun’s sap is the cheapest available anesthetic in rural Indonesia and Malaysia. Their sap is also a beloved ingredient source in their original and introduced ranges.

There is a third species of applin (D. ladon) known as the Kitikama applin, the Japanese applin, or the sweet applin. The fruit preferred by these applin has a peculiar mutagenic property. The applin inside the fruit also have a tendency to split via asexual reproduction. The tail is severed inside of the fruit. The applin will then regrow a tail while the tail generates a head, organs, and the rest of a body. Dipplin, the first evolution of the Kitikama applin, is made up of two wyrms inside of a single fruit. The fruit is an enlarged version of a standard applin’s fruit but is extremely sweet and often coated in a sticky sap. Dipplin are borderline immobile and rely on the fruit drawing in prey who can be attacked as they try to take a bite. The sap can also trap insects to be picked off at the wyrm’s leisure.

When dipplin are routinely threatened by or hunt equal foes, they may evolve further into hydrapple. Hydrapple have seven syrpents inside of one very large fruit, roughly three feet tall. One syrpent, the original head, is theoretically in charge. They are often ignored. In concert the syrpents are extraordinarily powerful, but in practice their lack of cooperation leads them to be too middling for most professional dragon tamers to bother with. In the wild hydrapple can use their syrpents as prehensile limbs to move up and down trees by hauling themselves up or steadily lowering down. They are primarily arboreal and haul themselves higher in the tree when digesting food before heading closer to ground to lure in prey.

Hydrapple are volatile and tend to be defensive of their orchards. Their fruit is incredibly sweet but its symbiosis with a dragon means few horticulturalists have bothered to raise the species outside of its small native range.

Hydrapple put a whole new spin on the idea of dragon friut..

Thanks for deep diving into my favorite dragon set!

 

[K_S]

Octillery (Remoraid)
Pseudocephalus viscaput

Overview

Many people are confused by octillery and remoraid: are they fish or cephalopods? Do they change between the two as they evolve? The answer is that they are both fish. Octillery’s ‘tentacles’ are fins they have some prehensile control over.

Candidly I picked this entry because I wanted to see how you answered the time old question of octipi or not.

The line lacks the intelligence, dexterity, and frailty that are shared by many cephalopods. They trade these for greater social bonds, even stretching across species, a hard skeleton, and powerful projectiles.

hmm intellegence vs special move bazooka.. we can see which ones the forces of evolution favored here...

Remoraid tend to fare poorly in captivity due to their anxiety. Trainers with the space and know-how to care for large aquatic pokémon can add a few remoraid to their home. They are otherwise best left to more advanced and ambitious aquarists.

Octillery, on the other hand, are sedentary and mostly asocial pokémon that adjust well to captivity.

I can only imagine the trainers stuggle, having to stagger mentally from social anxious snuggle fishie to aloof octipi knock off...

They can even tolerate being out of the water for up to an hour at a time, although they struggle to move on land. Intermediate-level aquarists may find one to be an excellent addition to their collection and a valuable partner in battles with available pools.

But it sounds like out of the pool thwyre almost as bad as wailords...

Physiology

Both octillery and remoraid are classified as pure water-types. The ruling is not disputed.

Remoraid are slightly elongated fish with light blue-green scales. A short dorsal fin is located just above the eyes. Two caudal fins are located at the pokémon’s rear, one extending from the top of the body and the other from the bottom. Two of remoraid’s most interesting features are their complex eyes and mouth. The mouth is shaped in such a way that the remoraid can raise its tongue and create a narrow channel that is wider at the back than the front. Their eyes are excellent at tracking moving targets. Between the two they can fire powerful jets of water or other elemental energy accurately for up to 300 feet. Even larger predators are often reluctant to take fire from an arsenal of remoraid.

I mean they sound like a school of snippers so I can see the trepidition.

The final feature of note about remoraid is the suction pad just behind their dorsal fin. This lets them attach themselves to the underside of larger pokémon such as lapras, mantine, wailord, sharpedo, and gyarados.

I'm now imagining larger swimming mon having a talent show so select sharp shooting rem' attach only.

Octillery have a short and deep body that is almost spherical. Remoraid’s pale blue-green scales are replaced by vibrant red ones that help them blend in better on coral reefs. They keep the complex eyes they had as a remoraid and gain an even longer and more advanced mouth for firing projectiles out of. This mouth also visibly extends from the rest of the body. Octillery are proficient in many more spectrums of elemental energy than remoraid. Most wild remoraid only make use of water attacks, but octillery can easily learn ice, fire, psychic, grass, normal, rock, ground, and poison attacks.

Aka octillery are basically the bard class of the two. Able to tap into almost everything but not master of much besides a few baselines.

Eight tentacles trail out from octillery. These are two modified pectoral fins and six modified caudal fins. The former two traditionally face forward while the latter six trail behind. Each fin has two orange suction pads similar to the one on remoraid. Octillery have control over each fin but they do not have the fine motor skills required for tool use.

Thats a shame. No jar escape videos for these fellows huh?

Another major difference between octillery and cephalopods is their skull. Octillery have a hard, bony skeletal system surrounding their organs. This makes it difficult for them to move through the open water without relying on jets of water to propel them backwards. It also makes them much more durable the invertebrates they resemble.

The armor seems to be a pro con trade off situation since it sounds like movements taken a hit.

Octillery can grow to be three feet tall when sitting on their fins. They can weigh up to fifty pounds. Captive octillery usually live for twenty-five years, although some have lived for as many as thirty-five. Their wild lifespan is unknown.

Behavior

Young remoraid live in arsenals of fifteen to twenty individuals. They tend to stay near sharpedo. In return for protection and the ability to clean up leftovers, remoraid will pick the parasites off of the larger pokémon. Older remoraid will begin to congregate around mantine. Mantine schools can host arsenals of up to 100 remoraid. They attach themselves to mantine’s wings and eat anything that escapes the feeding whirlpool. While they do pick off parasites, remoraid’s more important service is as a means of defense. Mantine mostly rely on their size and durability to keep them alive. Mantyke and sub-adult mantine do not have this protection. Remoraid will fiercely attack anything that tries to harm the nearby mantyke or mantine.

And now i'm imagining a rem' themed babysitting service for mantykes...

Octillery move to the reefs of Alola and mostly live alone. They find large crevasses to live in and, should one not be available, they will use their hard skull and powerful blasts to make one. Octillery hunt by killing small fish and pokémon with a single projectile. Then they make the journey across the seafloor to their down prey, threatening off scavengers with their water jets. Once the prey is devoured they will go back to their nest and repeat the process whenever they become hungry again.

Clawitzer are threatening Alola’s octillery population. Octillery are not used to predators as the only things that can reliably tank a hit and shatter their skull in return seldom visit the reefs. Not only do clawitzer prey upon octillery but they also have a similar niche. Their projectiles are even more powerful than those of octillery, although they are less powerful. The difference barely matters when hunting luvdisc and other small pokémon.

Are claw's invading on Oct' spaces like an invasive speices scenario?

Efforts to remove clawitzer from the reefs of Akala, Ula’Ula, and Melemele have been mostly successful. The population still holds on near Poni and the smaller islands of the archipelago.

Husbandry

Remoraid grow anxious when there is not a large pokémon to hang on to. Lapras, sharpedo, gyarados, wailord, and mantine, alomomola are suitable hosts. Milotic tend to grow irritated by remoraid and attack them if they try to latch on. All six ideal hosts require very large enclosures and have complicated care requirements. Remoraid are usually inserted into the enclosure as an afterthought to help with parasite removal or to create a multispecies habitat featuring a large predator that seldom tolerates companions. They will help themselves to any leftover food from sharpedo or gyarados. If housed with a lapras, wailord, alomomola, or mantine they will need to be fed small fish or have larger fish cut up into pieces for them. This can occasionally lead to problems with food-defensive lapras trying to claim all the food as their own. Some aquarists recommend withdrawing the lapras or moving it to a separate tank while the remoraid are fed.

Some trainers attempt to house remoraid and miltoic together. This seldom works out unless another host species is in the enclosure. Milotic are capable of removing their own parasites and view remoraid as a nuisance.

Octillery need a saltwater tank of at least 1000 gallons.

Whistles. Having run an aquariam tank thats an insane requirment. You need a bleeding swimming poor. Are you sure the requirment for training isn't millionaire?

A water temperature between 75 and 85 degrees is preferred. They are not particularly active, but they do occasionally like to explore their surroundings. They are generally asocial, although they will tolerate species that they cannot kill and that will not attack them. Corsola are one example of a compatible species. The tank will need an almost entirely enclosed hiding space the pokémon can retreat to. Octillery will not attack remoraid but they will become territorial when sharing a tank with another octillery.

Captive octillery strongly prefer to eat live food they kill themselves. This is complicated by their means of hunting: a missed octazooka can easily shatter most tank materials.

Reminds me of the old rainbow shrimp problem... wonder how the mon world fields it?

Some trainers use a shallow saltwater feeding and training pool in addition to the main tank. The octillery can be withdrawn, moved, and then put in the pool. Mid-sized fish can then be thrown into the feeding pool where the octillery will kill and eat them. Octillery expect at least two feedings every three days. If they are not hungry they will not kill the available prey unless it attacks first.

Octillery enjoy learning new attacks. Teammates with projectile moves will catch the pokémon’s interest and it will try to mimic them until it masters the technique. Octillery are not physically affectionate, but they will swim to the edge of the pool or tank to greet their trainer. They can learn a few basic tricks in addition to their battle training. Target tests, where objects are thrown over their enclosure for them to hit, are good for bonding.

Illness

Some of remoraid’s potential hosts can live in brackish or freshwater. Remoraid can become acclimated to brackish water but will never be comfortable in freshwater. Spending more than a few hours in it can result in organ failure and death. Make sure to use a saltwater enclosure. If this is not possible, at least make sure that the pokémon is steadily acclimated to brackish water.

Outside of water quality issues both species are remarkably hardy. One important thing to note is that octillery are not quite as durable as actual cephalopods: if hurt, they need time to heal. They cannot regenerate lost limbs under their own power.

Evolution

Remoraid evolve into octillery upon reaching a length of about two feet. As they approach evolution their fins begin to grow out and their suction pad becomes less prominent. Sometimes red scales will begin to appear. Eventually the remoraid will swim to the nearest reef and undergo flash evolution.

Flash evolution?

Remoraid will sometimes delay evolution in captivity until they come across coral. Some aquariums or private collectors are willing to give trainers access to their reef tanks to help remoraid evolve. Trainers can also bring them out to natural reefs, although a remoraid that has become used to captivity make become skittish in an unfamiliar environment full of wild pokémon. It may determine that it is not a suitable place to evolve and refuse to do so.

Battle

In leagues where clawitzer or intellion are available they come to replace octillery. Not only is clawitzer stronger, but it also can breathe air. Intellion is much, much more maneuverable, far more sociable, and does not require an aquarium setup at all. While intellion is less powerful, the maneuverability lets it easily avoid attacks – something octillery struggles to do without protect. Kingdra, while comparatively difficult to raise, mixes the ability to snipe targets with long-range water jets with much greater durability and physical strength.

This is not to say that octillery is inherently weak: a few super effective projectiles to vulnerable points will take down all but the most durable of pokémon. The problem is landing these hits. Octillery have very little maneuverability outside the water and cannot quickly turn their head to aim. In shallow water they can rotate around but not much else. Trick room teams have had great success with octillery, negating its main weakness and letting it land multiple strikes before the enemy can hit it. Outside of trick room octillery is a stationary turret: deadly from afar, but with relatively few options to deal with an opponent that slips behind it and starts attacking up close.

Remoraid can survive out of water for up to two hours at a time but struggle to move on dry land. In the water remoraid can submerge and take shots at anything that approaches. Unfortunately, water is not guaranteed to be available for major fights on the island challenge.

Which is mildly insane since it's an island challenge and all. The oceans a hop skip and trott out to most of these people's bacjyards...

Acquisition

Remoraid tend to follow around mantine and sharpedo. It is far safer to approach the former than the latter, especially if there are no newborns in the school. Remoraid may band together to ward off a human trying to capture one, but ordinarily they just seek shelter and leave the encountered pokémon on its own. The ideal way to capture a remoraid is to approach with a suitable host species. Let the remoraid bond to the new host and decide if it wants to stay. Trainers wanting to battle with the new capture may want to show off a pokémon that knows interesting projectile moves. Remoraid that are interested in fighting will be drawn to the display.

Octillery can usually be found in reefs. Specimens can be found lounging on the reef floor if they have just eaten. A proving battle with a projectile move user can get the octillery’s attention and pave the way to a capture. Make sure that the pokémon displayed is not easy prey for octillery: it might just decide to hunt your pokémon instead of sparring with it.

I'm imagining a trainer setting up a slew of floating and sinking targets to train thier mon... and an Oct' shuffling closer and closer to the show if it likes the accuracy/lightshow. Winning trainers get a 10 score card and a new partner, losers get a bubbly ramsy gordon chew out.

Mantine surf companies usually keep remoraid with their school to help with parasite removal. They will sell one to interested trainers. Adoption opportunities are limited as surrendered remoraid are usually just given to the surf companies. Adoption is much easier for octillery: surf companies tend not to want their remoraid once they evolve and will be willing to get rid of them either for free or for a small fee. Some aquarium specialty stores also sell octillery. Remoraid and octillery can be captured or purchased with a Class III license.

Breeding

Octillery mate around April. If a male and female encounter each other they will engage in a short sparring match, followed by displays of their power and accuracy. If they find the other to be suitable the male will deposit his sperm into the female and swim away. The female will lay about 50,000 eggs in her nest a few days later. She will stay in her nest for another two weeks until they hatch. The offspring are less than one-half inch long at birth. The male will routinely bring food to the female as she defends the nest. Once the babies are born they are kicked out of the nest and tasked with finding their way to a host.

Prospective mates should be introduced in a large, durable pool to avoid tank walls being shattered in the target practice displays. Potential targets should be thrown above the tank, placed over 200 feet away from it, thrown into the water, and moved back and forth mechanically. Octillery are thorough when evaluating mates. If both accept the other the mating act will occur. The male can then be removed. The female will not leave her nest until the eggs hatch. Food will need to be brought to her at the end of a long feeding pole. This is the one time that octillery will readily accept dead fish.

If the tank is sufficiently large and well stocked with plankton the newly hatched remoraid can live in it until they are large enough to be captured in a pokéball. Most aquarists recommend moving them before this to a separate fry tank. It should be shallow and wide with a variety of hiding places. Currents should be kept to a minimum. Brine shrimp should regularly be fed to the fry. Once they are about six inches long they can be moved to a tank with a proper host species.

Relatives

P. viscaput is the only saltwater species in the genus. There are a few color morphs that might constitute separate subspecies, but the physiological and behavioral differences are minimal.

The other subspecies in the genus is P. bell, named after the scientist who rediscovered it. The remoraid of this line are much smaller than those of P. viscaput and only reach sizes of seven to eight inches long. They once live in cold, fast-moving freshwater streams throughout China, Korea, and Japan. Pollution, water overuse, overharvesting, and dam construction brought the species to the brink of extinction. They were believed to be gone altogether when a scientist found them living near a spring in Johto. They have since been reintroduced to many parts of their former range.

As they grow older the remoraid swim out to see to evolve. They spend two weeks in an estuary before flash evolving and swimming out to sea. The female octillery will make her way inland after fertilization. Once she finds a cool, slow-moving pond she will give birth and die. The babies will find shelter and food in her body until they are old enough to swim further upstream.

Thanks for sharing and answering one of my own mon related questions by accident!

 

[K_S]

In honor of the lovely day lets look at some love shaped fish.

Luvdisc
Discus suavium

Overview

Luvdisc is not a powerful pokémon. They must breathe underwater once every fifteen minutes, making them impractical for travelers. The pokémon are also notoriously hard for beginners to care for in captivity and rarely bond to their trainer.

Wow i can see many love lorn going out of thier way to make it work anyways.

Despite everything, luvdisc is one of the most popular pokémon in the aquarium trade. This is because of their cultural association with love and happiness. Many hotels in popular honeymoon areas keep large aquariums, pools, or sea pens of luvdisc. Some of the honeymooners that visit will be inspired to take in a luvdisc of their own as a sign of the couple’s eternal love.

Most of these fish will die quickly in the hands of inexperienced aquarists.

Why am i not surprised that thats how it goes... those poor fish...

Physiology

Luvdisc are classified as pure water-types.

Luvdisc have a laterally compressed, heart-shape body. They are surprisingly nimble fish capable of making sharp turns while moving through the water at speeds of up to twenty-five miles an hour. Luvdisc’s scales are bright pink and coated in a thin layer of mucus. Because red wavelengths are absorbed quickly by water, luvdisc actually appear to be black to most sea creatures.

So the softest looking mon are actually goth hearts? Thats pretty funny. I'm surprised they aren't noctornal considering the wavelength issue.

Luvdisc usually grow to be two feet tall and one foot long. They can live up to fifteen years in the wild but rarely survive for more than ten in captivity.

And the bar for upkeep for these fishsticks keeps getting scarier and scarier.

Behavior

Algae and coral polyps are the main component of a wild luvdisc’s diet. They dart around coral reefs and use their small mouth to pick off clumps of algae they find. Zooplankton and benthic crustaceans are also a good source of food when there is not enough algae to go around. An algae-based diet allows luvdisc to stay close to the coral, ready to dart into crevasses or the space between corsola branches. This is vital as luvdisc have no real defense mechanism other than hiding and mimicry.

Mimicry of what though?

Luvdisc live in bonded pairs. Contrary to popular belief, mated pairs cannot kiss each other and then use their bodies like wings to fly.

And here lies the death of a fun fanish image.

Sometimes luvdisc will jump out of the water to scout for reasons unknown. It is suspected that this is either a scouting mechanism against birds or a way to communicate across long distances through the sound of the impact. This is the probable origin of the folklore around flying luvdisc pairs.

Followed by the myth of if you go fishing and get splashed by a flying heart fish you'll get married soon or something...

Husbandry

Luvdisc need warm aquariums with both crevasses to hide in and open spaces where they can attain their max speed. Tank temperature should be between 78-and 800degrees Fahrenheit.

Um how are they dying of anything if they can live in 800 degrees? Groudon would fear them.

Warm tanks require lots of aeration. Bubblers meet this need and provide enrichment. If luvdisc are kept with another species they will need more hiding places than normal, at least two per luvdisc in the tank. Luvdisc will want the options to escape or hide even if their tankmates are entirely docile. Even tanks without other pokémon should have at least some places to hide.

Surprised they aren't called shydiscs... really...

Because they primarily subsist on algae, luvdisc work best in tanks with a high surface area and lots of live rock. Dried algae food mixes provide nutrition without running the risk of the tank being overrun by algae. The remaining third of luvdisc’s diet can be met by coral polyp mixes or brine shrimp. If the pokémon spits out its food and has to take several more bites it is too large. Large earthworms make for good enrichment items. They will also sometimes make a game of trying to break open mollusks if they believe the open water to be safe.

Luvdisc should be kept in groups of at least two and ideally five. The gender composition is irrelevant as luvdisc will happily bond with either sex. Luvdisc do not typically pair bond, but they do prefer to socialize with at least one other conspecific. This allows one to graze while the other keeps an eye on the environment. They are also surprisingly playful fish and enjoy having a companion to explore with or chase around the tank.

They live in pairs for life... how is it surprising that they like companionship? I imagine toy shellfish would be quite a hit in the fishie toy market.

Tropical corsola are some of the best tankmates for luvdisc. They can thrive at the temperatures that luvdisc prefer and also tend to accumulate algae. This provides both a home and a food source for luvdisc and mitigates one of corsola’s health problems. Aquarists attempting to breed corsola may want to temporarily remove either species during spawning as luvdisc will eat the polyps. In the open ocean they rarely eat enough for their presence to matter. In enclosed tanks they very much can. Pyukumuku have a very high temperature tolerance, but can cause problems if they die and foul up the tank. Clamperl, despite being docile creatures, are rarely good tankmates. Luvdisc will sometimes try and break them open to consume them, and a clamperl that unexpectedly evolves can decimate the luvdisc population overnight.

This is so finicky. I imagine when a new water mon is found they have to swing it with the luv's and update this log... it must be a thankless task that takes ages... becuase these fish are hyper sensitive to everything.

Though I imagine those top end resteraunts ect. are paying a fortune in luvdisc tenders.

Question, is a school of luv's called an infatuation.. and woukd that make paired fish a smooching?

Luvdisc are skittish creatures. It is best to keep them in a secluded, quiet place. In homes with children there should be barriers to prevent them from tapping the glass and disturbing the luvdisc. Research has shown that some forms of quiet background music can help calm the pokémon and drown out other sounds. Specialist forums contain recommended playlists.

They probably would be a hit in mental health aka psychologists offices. Since a lot that sooths them could help incoming patients.

Pokéballs should be used infrequently and primarily for transportation. Stasis balls prevent the luvdisc from panicking upon finding itself alone. Despite assertions from at least one high profile coordinator, love balls do not have a statistically significant impact on luvdisc welfare.

Illness

The most common problem in captive luvdisc is stress. Luvdisc are disturbed by loud noises, low temperatures, lack of hiding places, aggressive tankmates, bright lights, total darkness, and loneliness, among other things.

Not listed: The air changeling directions, coughs, a dropped cup two rooms away...

A stressed luvdisc will either spend almost all of its time hidden away, leaving for less than two hours a day, or it will begin to dart madly around the tank at all hours. The best treatment is to remove the stressor. Be careful to do so in a way that does not cause further stress.

Evolution

N/A

Battle

Wild luvdisc prefer to flee or hide instead of fighting. They only prey upon zooplankton small enough to fit inside their mouth and mollusks that are unlikely to retaliate. Simply put, luvdisc are not built for combat. The most they can do in a real fight is flit around the battlefield while trying to wear down opponents with whirlpool and toxic. Unfortunately, luvdisc lacks the sheer speed that lets most quickstall pokémon avoid attack after attack. Most water-types that luvdisc would try to trap have stronger hydrokinesis than their would-be trapper. This means that luvdisc can be blown off course by a powerful wave.

The only battle-adjacent field where luvdisc have found any success is coordination. Even there luvdisc can struggle in the face of loud sounds and unfamiliar spaces. They also lack the raw power expected from even performance-only pokémon in the highest echelons of the contest scene.

Acquisition

Luvdisc numbers have declined after the introduction of toxapex to Alola.

And they were introduced... why?

. Their capture is now prohibited on most reefs throughout Alola. Capture is always allowed on at least two patches of reef somewhere in the Commonwealth, but the exact locations vary over time. Consult the DNR website for more information. They can be purchased from most high-end aquarium stores. Specimens are not generally available for adoption due to the demand in the aquarium trade.

It is best to obtain luvdisc in pairs or groups. Ideally the luvdisc would already be familiar with each other when captured.

Luvdisc can be obtained with a Class II license.

Breeding

Contrary to popular belief, luvdisc do not pair bond. They are social and prefer to pair up when out and about. The individual they pair with can vary over months or even minutes. They tend to be friendly with all conspecifics in an area, although they do have their preferred friends. Due to the nature of their mating practices they are not actually more likely to breed with these friends.

Wild luvdisc participate in mass spawning events four times a year. Females can release over 3,000 eggs into the water. Most will settle onto nearby surfaces. The ones that land in crevasses or other hard to reach places are much more likely to survive the ten days until hatching. Newly hatched luvdisc find the nearest pair of luvdisc and stay close to them. Recent research has shown that the mucus coating of adult luvdisc contains important nutrients and antibodies critical for early development.

The discovery of the need to have luvdisc in the fry tank has greatly improved the captive breeding program. Before 1990 almost all captive luvdisc were taken from the wild. Now most luvdisc in the international aquarium trade are born in captivity. The majority of wild-caught luvdisc are taken to small private aquariums in the area in which they are captured.

Breeding of luvdisc is still very difficult and best left to professionals with tanks designed for breeding and a great deal of experience with the species.

Relatives

The saltwater luvdisc are found on reefs throughout the tropical Indo-Pacific. Escaped captive specimens have become established in portions of the Mediterranean and Caribbean.

The freshwater luvdisc (D. discus) is native to portions of the Amazon river basin They are smaller than the saltwater luvdisc and far less brightly colored, boasting a mottled brown color scheme rather than a bright pink one. D. discus prefers to live in relatively fast-moving waters with hiding places nearby to sleep in. They can use their body shape to face minimal resistance when moving against currents, letting them escape predators by racing upstream. The water temperatures they live in mean that they do not have to bask often.

Luvdisc are not closely related to alomomola. It is believed that luvdisc evolved to resemble the larger pokémon so that fewer predators would try to eat them. Alomomola are slimy and their mucous can result in choking when consumed in large quantities. Most specimens that survive past the larval stage will survive to adulthood. Adult luvdisc that resemble a juvenile alomomla will only attract the attention of larger predators they can outmaneuver on the reef.

Thanks for sharing your luv' lore it was a fun read. Till next time

 

[K_S]

Creme fey, alright lets see how this goes?

Alcremie (Milcery)
Creptiodefructibus eton

Pronounced " eat-on?"

Overview

Alcremie, alongside vanilluxe and slurpuff, form the family Dulcifae, the cream fairies.
The three species appear to be entirely made of dairy products or sugar. They do not appear to have any proper skeleton or muscle. Scientists have gone back and forth on their origins and nature with no one entirely sure why or how they are alive.

Well as a rule traditional fey are pretty weird so i makes sense that the 'mon version would make commonsense take a backseat.

Alcremie are generally calm, benevolent, and interested in humans, which is an almost unheard of combination among fairy-types. This is especially strange as their closest living relative is one of the most murderous pokémon on the planet.

Wonder if it comes from thier spawning place. Bakeries are associated with a number of happy events (wedding parties, births, ect) perhaps it rubbed off?

On balance, alcremie are one of the duller fairies and are far from the most powerful. This can be frustrating for trainers on the island challenge. Alcremie are still as good an introduction as any to the husbandry of fairy-types and a must-have pokémon for avid bakers and confectioners.

I can imagine a baker trainer scouring through alola, hunting each color/flavor combination...

Physiology

Alcremie and milcerie are classified as pure fairy-type pokémon. The classification is not seriously disputed.

Milcery appear to be large drops of cream with small tentacles extending outwards from it. Two pale dots mark the eyes. Some appear to have a thin mouth. Others don’t. The mouth, and potentially the eyes, are non-functional.

Alcremie are more humanoid with an apparent torso, head, and extensive hair. All of their body except for the eyes and adornments is homogenous. The ‘hair’ is nothing of the sort. Alcremie usually form small mouths but do not ingest food through it. Their eyes are crystalized sugar with no apparent ability to sense light. They do not have a brain.

I can here both a pysiologist and a taxadermist crying right now.

Alcremie see and think regardless. One thing alcremie lack is legs. They must glide along the ground. Alcremie are at least sticky enough to cling to vertical surfaces and even move while suspended upside-down.

Upon evolution alcremie adopt a distinctive flavor and adornments. The flavor and adornments may have an impact on their biology, personality, and combat prowess. They may not. There is an ongoing debate as to whether alcremie will only evolve into a form that matches their personality and strengths, if the form determines personality and strengths, or if there is no statistically significant difference and the perceived variation is due to stereotyping and outliers.

In short these fey are the mon version of nature, nurture, or what the heck life?! With a foodie twist.

Milcery are weak and unemotive, so it is difficult to compare a specimen’s psychology and performance before and after evolution.

No one is entirely sure what alcremie are. The leading theories until the invention of the microscope were that they were either a slug or a pile of cream possessed by a ghost. Analysis of their cellular structure has confirmed that they are not living animals. They do not photosynthesize. Most of their body is organic, although they lack most hallmarks of a complex organism such as a central nervous system and cardiovascular system or any organs at all.

Are they conjoined protozoan then? Because life without organ systems makes me think either virus, or protozoan...

There is a great deal of bacteria in their body constantly producing and breaking down the cream. Some scientists have theorized that alcremie are a hive mind of the bacteria.

Or bacteria.. didnt think of that.

Alcremie also have strong ties to fairy-type energy. It is not unknown for fairies to manifest as common objects in spite of all biological evidence suggesting it should be impossible. Klefki is one such example. Alcremie may just be a fairy manifesting as a mass of cream. The strongest evidence of this is slurpuff, a similar fairy made of crystalized sugars. For now all three species in the family are classified as organic pokémon adjacent to the true psychics.

Alcremie primarily feed by absorbing biomass and converting it to cream.

Its an infinite creamery... but if you harvested the excess for say... a bakery... wouldn't that be like takin the feys sweat or... eww.. bad brain.. yeah lets leave that as sweat.

. Food is taken up by the base of the pokémon and then slowly moved into the center of the body. The exact chemical or biological process by which this occurs is poorly understood. In the wild alcremie primarily graze on plants, fungi, and bacteria. They have been documented feeding on carcasses when grasses are scarce, but it is believed that they are simple scavengers rather than predators. Alcremie have a strong aversion to violence. Even captive specimens are known to hesitate and hold back in battle.

Well-adorned, well-fed alcremie can grow to weigh three pounds. One to two pounds is more typical for the species. Alcremie can alter their body shape far more than the average pokémon. Typical specimens are between ten to fifteen inches in height most of the time, but can potentially compress down to six inches or up to twenty by widening or thinning their body. Wild lifespans are not well documented. Captive specimens typically live for five to eight years.

Ability to be sculpted and decorated? I'm surprised they aren't the fav of cordinators.

Behavior

Milcery are relatively simple and solitary pokémon. They prefer to seek out dark, cool places and hunt for food to absorb. This often puts them into contact with mold, one of their favorite foods. A handful of homeowners rely on milcery to perform some cleaning and sanitation duties, or at least to direct them to the least sanitary parts of a building. Some milcery have been known to sneak into refrigerators and try to blend in with white surfaces when they hear approaching vibrations. Milcery are not particularly social organisms. They are cleverer than their appearance suggests and can use their amorphous body to squeeze into tight spaces if they smell food. They can also mold their body into a thin layer and undulate it to allow for crude, short-distance flight.

Alcremie are generally nocturnal in the wild. At night they wander fields or forests and try to absorb nutrients. They have been known to climb up trees and absorb any moss growing on them. Alcremie have many potential predators. While they will try to defend themselves, in a pinch they will simply throw out part of their body with a charm woven into it. Charmed alcremie cream is a powerful psychoactive drug that induces an intense feeling of serenity

So someone wanting a wild one needs to follow the trail of blitzed out 'mon? That'll be easy.

. Pokémon under its effects won’t make any attempt to pursue a fleeing alcremie or even to defend themselves if another predator comes along and takes advantage of their altered mental state.

And i'm not imagining weaker preditors trooping along behind them and noming the passed out attackers.

Ordinary alcremie cream has much weaker effects. It tends to increase serotonin production and reduce cortisol levels, but people under its effects can and will defend themselves and pursue other goals. The blood sugar spike and caloric intake are far more dangerous than any short or long-term psychological effects.

Yeah insta diabetes probably is a killer.

Most alcremie eventually end up domesticated or semi-domesticated, preferring to exchange milk for cream with humans. This can be a very profitable industry for everyone involved. So long as they are given adequate food, space, and enrichment, alcremie adjust well to captivity. Alcremie may wish to change trainers but rarely wish to return to the wild after being tamed.

I mean thier whole stchick is easier to do in civilization so that makes sense...

Husbandry

Milcery and alcremie can theoretically eat almost anything inorganic, from plant matter to meat to microorganisms. Cream and milk are their most desired foods. Powdered milk and cream can form the basis of a diet as long as they have access to water. Neither stage will drink pure water. There must be flavorings, microorganisms, or some other kind of food suspended in it. Butter and cheese are also happily accepted but are slightly harder to digest. Meat, leaves, and bark are alcremie’s least favorite foods. Moss, mold, fruit, and algae are staples of the species diet in the wild and should make up at least 8% of a captive specimen’s food intake. Alcremie will also seek out food related to their flavor and adornments. This is often fairly self-explanatory. Trainers who are confused as to what this means for their pokémon should consult specialist literature.

Aka trainers with these mon need to chat up cheifs...

Inedible waste may be excreted in the form of pellets or sludge. Alcremie are easily housebroken and can dispose of waste in the correct spot. Just make sure that their waste receptacle is easily accessible for a creature of their size and does not contain litter that will be difficult to remove from their body.

I'm imagining a creme cat litter abomination. Thanks for that.

A box of frequently changed newspaper is often the best option. Toilets where the bowl is dry unless flushed can also work. Alcremie can be taught how to operate the toilet themselves. So long as the pokémon’s diet is based around dairy, moss, mold, algae, and fruit, they will only need to excrete once or twice a week. More frequent excretion can be a sign of dietary problems or deeper health issues.

It has no organs, short of a bath how does it get sick.

Milcery are less intelligent and more prone to wandering. They will tend to leave waste in random locations. Thankfully they only produce an ounce or less at a time and it is easily washed out of clothing or absorbed from hard surfaces. Milcery trainers may wish to avoid having carpets or rugs in places their pokémon can access. Milcery are capable of fitting through gaps only a few millimeters wide and flying a few feet into the air, meaning that most places in their home will be accessible to them.

Alcremie are entertained by most children’s toys and media. They are fairly solitary creatures that may wish to shadow their trainer or a teammate for an hour or so a day but would otherwise like to be left alone. Many alcremie trainers have a room for them similar to a toddler’s play area filled with toys and a cool, hard surface for the pokémon to rest upon. Alcremie are also capable of operating basic technology like a television or light switch. Some have been taught to play video games, although the controls can be difficult to handle with their biology.

Sounds like a skill design issue. Surprised Lysandre who is tech everything in Kalos didnt have a good will foundation for that as a cover or something..

Milcery need little in the way of enrichment. Hermetically sealed mazes work as housing with food occasionally put inside and waste removed. Occasional flying time outside their enclosure may be associated with better adjusted alcremie post-evolution and a shorter time period to evolution. Research on the subject has been inconclusive.

Other fairies will often tolerate alcremie without being particularly friendly. Inorganic pokémon will not try to eat alcremie and can receive cleaning in return. Spectral pokémon are often playful enough to keep an alcremie entertained without posing a risk of attempted predation. Pokémon similar to animals will often try to eat alcremie, causing tensions on a team. Plant pokémon will sometimes see alcremie as a threat and lash out.

I get why animals would take a bite (they look delicious) but what beef do grass types have with them? Also didn't N have one of these things (the ice version) might explain some of his views...

Illness

Alcremie’s bizarre biology makes treating illnesses through surgery or medication next to impossible. Thankfully, the major health problems can all be averted through proper husbandry.

Spoiling is the most common ailment. The bacteria to cream ratio rapidly increases, resulting in the pokémon digesting most of its own body and changing its color, texture, and flavor. If allowed to continue it can prove fatal. Spoiling can be avoided by frequent access to fresh food and cool, shaded areas to rest.

Alright well that answers that. Would a trainer be advised to stick to rural areas with a carry on icebox for emergencies?

Spoiling is treatable for a few days after onset through removal to a cool and sanity environment and the provision of a constant supply of fresh milk. Symptoms will usually partially or completely reverse within a week.

Depletion is the most common health problem among battling specimens. Alcremie can lose portions of their body during fights. Any body mass loss to consumption or attacks must be replaced. After battles, alcremie need a large amount of high-quality food to replenish their biomass.

I'm imagining tables with nibble food set aside for trainers and these mon for between fights. Especially if the regions champoin has one...

They should be allowed to rest for a few days after depletion of more than 10% and for at least a full day for depletion between 5% and 10%. Depletion of more than 40% can be fatal without prompt treatment.

Digestive problems are marked by either an excessive amount of waste or a very long interval between defecation.

Even the fey are not immune to constipation. Clearly arceus is a cruel one for that punishment most foul.

If either is observed, make sure that the pokémon is getting enough to eat. Then replace all food sources with milk and moss for a few days to see if the problem continues. If problems persist or lead to spoilage or depletion, immediately consult a veterinarian.

You know i can only imagine the insane amount of education nurse joys and thier kin need... and they have my deepest condolances...

Damage to the eyes is probably just cosmetic and will heal within hours.

Many trainers have questions about whether alcremie cream is safe for consumption. After all, it comes from a living organism and is laden with bacteria. It is safe. Alcremie’s bacteria seem to preserve the cream and even prey upon other microorganisms that would cause it to rot. They are benign in the human digestive system and may even help restore it following antibiotic treatment. The cream should still be reduced for culinary reasons as undiluted alcremie cream can cause intense sugar highs, stomach aches, and a loss of appetite for days afterwards.

Evolution

In times gone by alcremie evolution was shrouded in mystery. Folk stories told of wild dances deep in the woods where a ring of fairies would spin and dance around a milcery until it evolved. Wild alcremie populations have likely been sporadic or non-existent for centuries. Alcremie are not social with conspecifics or other fairies. Captive specimens can evolve. These stories are likely only that.

Captive milcery evolve when they have had a reliable source of food for several weeks in a row.

How are there any unevolved milcery if they only need a few weeks of food?

During this time the milcery will begin to grow larger and exhibit more complex behaviors. They will seek out many food sources to sample their flavors and attempt to find edible objects such as berries or candies to adorn themselves with. Once they have picked a flavor and adornment they will begin to grow to their new full size over the course of one to three weeks. Their cream will mutate to match their desired flavor’s taste and texture. The new alcremie will seek out as many adornments as they can and add them to their body in a seemingly haphazard fashion. The adornments further alter the flavor and consistency of the cream and might have an impact on elemental affinity, personality, and future dietary preferences. Going forward the adornment will be one of alcremie’s favorite foods and an easy way to bribe them.

In their native Galar, alcremie are capable of gigantamaxing. The form results in a rapid growth into a roughly ten-feet-tall version of themselves perched on top of an eighty-feet-tall multilevel cake. The frosting is so calorically dense that eating four milligrams will put the average person into a diabetic coma. Their body hardens upon impact, making it nearly impossible to defeat them with blunt force. Blades, flame, freezing, psionic attacks, and poison are the only reliable ways of dealing with a gigantamaxed alcremie.

So who would win, giganta' cake or ravening snorlax?

Battle

Outside of Galar, alcremie see no use on the competitive circuits.

On the island challenge alcremie can function as slow, bulky setup sweepers. Calm mind or acid armor can be used to increase elemental or physical defenses. The former also increases elemental power. Alcremie can then rely on fairy attacks such as moonblast, draining kiss, or dazzling gleam to attack enemies. Unfortunately, alcremie learn very few coverage moves without TMs. Their options will still be limited even then. Alcremie can also support their team with aromatherapy or keep themselves healthy with recover.

Alcremie’s main natural defense is not very useful in organized combat. Opponents can avoid the deleterious effects of charmed cream by simply not eating it. The defense nullifies biting attacks and can surprise the unprepared but does little else. Alcremie are vulnerable to blunt force attacks when not gigantamaxed. Water attacks can make it difficult to maintain their consistency. Poison attacks and even some healing moves can cause severe damage to their microbial environment. Sand-based attacks can cause them extreme psychological distress. Fast, physically powerful opponents or elemental attackers with a beam attack or good coverage can knock out alcremie well before they have a chance to set up.

So in short, in alola these fellows are pets to be kept in a bakery, gotcha.

They can be made to work by a clever trainer who plans fights around their disadvantages, but they are not easy to fit onto a team.

Milcery should not be battled with. They can reflexively defend themselves, but any combat risks serious damage that could set back their development by months.

Acquisition

Feral milcery and alcremie can occasionally be found in the forests and abandoned buildings at the base of Mt. Lanakila. The higher regions of the mountain are too cold for them and hold vanilluxe and ninetales, two known predators. Most of Alola is too hot. The feral population mostly descend from captive specimens that were abandoned during the rapid population decline in Southern and Western Ula’Ula.

It is easiest to acquire either stage from the private trade. They are popular with breeders, confectioners, and casual trainers for their cream and relative ease of care. Many fairy-specialist breeders carry them. Even a few larger pokémon or cooking supply stores will sell milcery. Shelters rarely keep the line for long as they can be rather easily rehomed and do not do well in standard shelter facilities.

Per all thier sensitivities i can see why. I can also see having one of these and a luvdisc would drive anyone nerotic. I feel bad for Kalos cordinators right now...

Milcery and alcremie can be acquired with a Class II license.

Breeding

Scholars believed for centuries that milcery were formed when sweet particles in the air congealed into a new organism. Meanwhile, the more mystical shrine maidens and keepers of folklore warned that the fairies would cause cups of milk or plates of soft cheese to spoil if left unattended. The folklore was ultimately right. Alcremie that are sufficiently well fed can reproduce by touching and infecting cream. However, alcremie refuse to infect food specifically given to them. They must infect cream that they believe does not belong to them and they do not have permission to access. Attempts at captive breeding must rely upon deception to get the alcrmeie to do something they believe the breeder does not want them to do.

Love the tie to base fey myths. You arent getting the crop of the creme 'mon without some flat out trickery. It fits nicely.

How much genetic or pseudo-genetic influence the parent has upon the child is debated. Milcery do not inherit the flavor of their parent. Laboratory studies where a milcery is given access to a variety of different flavors and adornments show only a slight preference towards their parent’s. Personalities and preferred combat styles of battling alcremie are often similar to their parent, but this could simply be selection bias. Trainers who want to battle buy milcery made by powerful alcremie and then train their new pokémon to battle. Most proper randomized trials are for flavor and nutritional value rather than personality.

Wow those studies seem horribly shallow... until you realize they are poking at creme... then it makes sense.

Alcremie lack parental instincts. They will not cannibalize milcery unless desperate, but they will also not care for them. Adults can even be territorial with milcery and drive them away from food sources. In captivity it is best to keep them separated from their offspring.

Relatives

Traditional alcremie are one of two morphs of the species. They are born in milk cream and have physiology resembling it. The second morph, often referred to as alcrebrie, is born from whey and have a more bitter, cheesy flavor and a more solid form. Alcremie and alcrebrie can interbreed by reproducing in whey or cream, respectively. The hybrid will often have a consistency and flavor somewhere between their parents. As a result they are not classified as separate species but as morphs within the same species akin to the evolutions of eevee or the colors of butterfree.

Vanilluxe is usually regarded as alcremie’s closest relative as they are both made of cream. Whether they are a bacterial hivemind or a possessed object remains unclear. Vanilluxe have a very different temperament from alcremie and do not have distinct flavors or adornments.

Theres no chocolate or carmel version? Gasp.

They will also happily prey upon any alcremie they encounter. Vanilluxe also have no particular affinity for fairy-type energy and reproduce sexually rather than asexually. These differences have led some theorists to speculate that they may simply be convergently evolved species with no close relation.

Or they could be giving thier cousins the cold shoulder..

Yes yes i'll stop now.

It is difficult to form a satisfying taxonomy for fey and phantoms due to the lack or unreliability of genetic evidence. Scientists disagree as to whether they should be grouped by their physical form at all or simply split into categories based on their diet and rituals. Alcremie are classified as physical, familiar, asocial, non-bargaining fey. They eat real food, are eager to associate with humans, do not partake in rituals with other fairies, and do not have any inclination or ability to make and enforce bargains. Under this schema sylveon is one of their closest relatives. This result is unacceptable to many academics, leading to discussion of a fifth or sixth criteria, such as relation to non-fairies or reproductive methods.

Huh that was a weird one. Thanks for sharing and i vote N having one of these things fueled his insanity in the Manga and Game'verse.

 

[K_S]

Magnamite review ehre we go...

Magnezone (Magnemite, Magneton)
Magnusmagne triumverate

The first name made me laugh. It sounds like a magician's chant taht got cut off...

Overview

Wild magnezone are responsible for billions of dollars in property damage every year.

And Serge has how many of these things? Wonder if they're considered pests...

Their strongest attacks can fry electronics within a six-mile radius. The electricity in human settlements draws them to the places where they are the most dangerous. They rarely directly kill anyone, but they’re still a major economic threat.

I guess it can be worse than pikas.

Captive magnezone are perfectly fine companions so long as personal electronics are heavily shielded. Magnemite are solid battlers. By the time they evolve twice, they can easily help carry a team through the end of the island challenge. Personalities are variable but usually not particularly extreme.

I mean, they're two magnets and a bag of jigging googly eyes. I can't see too much personality being in play here. They all feel pretty spock like.

Why, then, is there such a difference? The answer comes down to restraint and values. Wild magnezone care little for humans and do not know how much they should care back. Even if they did, they probably wouldn’t. Captive magnezone, especially those that have lived with humans since they were a magnemite, know their limits and how to avoid frying nearby electronics.

Huh so niceness is required. Noted.

They still might when excited or startled, but no more frequently than other electric-types.

Physiology

All stages of the evolutionary line are classified as dual steel- and electric-types.

Magnemite’s main body is made up of concentric metal shells. The exact alloy varies by the region of birth. All but the outermost shell are constantly spinning in different directions and at different rates. The pattern allows the magnemite to fly and attack. Magnemite change the rotation of their layers by using the three screws protruding from their body, one that they keep oriented upwards and two beneath their eye.

I can only imagine the mad scientists of the past trying to figure out flight by playing with those screws.

Magnemite have a single eye protruding from their shell. Curiously, this eye is only a feature of the outermost layer; it does not extend any deeper than the shell. The eye does not appear to function like human eyes, but does absorb and process light. It is believed that a small chip at the base of this eye contains all of magnemite’s nervous system. Magnemite can react to sound, but it is unknown how they hear.

There are chips in this thing? Are they hackable? I can hear a porygon getting jealous from here.

Magnemite channel attacks through two horseshoe magnets, one on each side of their body. Right before they attack the magnets begin to spin very quickly with a small orb of energy appearing in the center. The magnets will abruptly stop spinning and an attack is unleashed from the orb.

Magneton are formed by three magnemite in an equilateral triangle. One is dominant and remains positioned at the top of the triangle. This magnemite retains all of its screws. The other two sacrifice one of their external screws to fuse them to the dominant magnemite. The resulting magneton retains the personality and behaviors of the dominant with only very small additions from the two others. All three processing chips remain active.

Well, at least it avoids the dodrio phenomenon where the heads are fully functional and can occasionally plot murder if they don't get along..

Magnezone look rather different from their pre-evolutions. Their body is split into three connected but distinct chambers. The largest is a spheroid in the center of the pokémon. This chamber holds three separate rotating shell structures. The upper portion of the spheroid has a barrier separating it from the bottom. This segment contains a large network of chips, circuitry and rotating spheres. There has not been a chance to study this network in detail as magnezone explode shortly after their deaths.

Oh boy, I hope they have a lot of warning,g or there could be a number of disasters tied to that end-of-life event...

As such, all observations have been conducted with very specialized equipment capable of scanning electric-types. Magnezone are not easily sedated and do not like being confined in tight spaces, making it difficult to observe them for long.

Do they tolerate pokeballs?

There is a long antenna on top of the spheroid. This is used for receiving and transmitting signals (see Behavior).

The two other chambers of a magnezone are shaped like magnemite fused into the spheroid. Each have a single shell structure inside of them. Magnezone have three eyes, one on each chamber. The central eye is far larger than the other two. In fact, the other two eyes only seem to become active when the magnezone is preparing an attack, suggesting that they are only used for aiming. Magnezone have two very large screws on them, both attached to the back half of the magnemite portions. They have three large horseshoe magnets, one in front of each magnemite and one behind the spheroid. The back magnet is not used for attacking and appears to be entirely devoted to navigation, and perhaps to moving the three spheres inside the spheroid.

All three stages move in part by repelling themselves from the earth. They are also capable of creating a poorly understood force tentatively named “anti-gravity” that helps them levitate.

Magnezone typically grow to be about six feet across and weigh around one ton. Magnezone live for about thirty years in the wild and fifty years in captivity.

Behavior

Magnemite feed upon electricity. In the past this restricted them to predation or parasitism on electric-types. Sometimes electric-types would congregate in such numbers that the environment itself became charged; magnemite were most abundant in these places and they are, to this day, their primary breeding grounds.

Modernity has led to an explosion in the number of magnemite in the world and the areas in which they can live.

Much to every city designer's deepest nightmare. I wonder if they make sections in the cities to lure them away from buildings.

From the earliest days of modern electricity, guards have been required at power plants and along wires. Magnemite learned and began to prey upon the places where the lines connected to the homes themselves, as well as upon the generators of rural homes.

I can hear the whole electric worker subclass of trainers crying right now...

Magnemite and magneton are not particularly intelligent. They behave like automatons concerned only with feeding and survival. Some, mostly under trainer care, develop a sense of curiosity; their hardware is not well equipped for this feeling. In time they inevitably become paranoid and obsessed with triangles.

Why triangles? Is it like a mental disorder?

In the very rare circumstances that these magnemite become dominant upon evolution and evolve again (see Evolution), the resulting magnezone are known to almost immediately attack centers of media, government, and commerce. They also have a well-documented hatred of mushroom farms.

I feel like I'm missing a punchline here, would you be willing to explain?

Despite their lack of creativity and intelligence, magnemite are known to congregate in large swarms. The individuals do not seem to interact with or acknowledge each other and they do not coordinate collective strategies. Rather, it seems like they all have roughly the same ability to sense unsecured power sources and they all have the same analytical process for choosing which one to swarm.

Magneton behaviors are nearly identical to magnemite.

Magnezone behave rather differently than magnemite and magneton. To start with, they very seldom descend to the ground. Magnezone are most often found among the clouds absorbing static electricity. Clouds with a magnezone in them produce far less lightning. Magnezone are not social, although they are constantly emitting and receiving signals. This discovery and magnezone’s bizarre anatomy and appearance led to widespread speculation that they are extraterrestrial. There is no solid evidence one way or another. Their signals are used to communicate with conspecifics on Earth. When a magnezone does descend to breed, another inevitably comes to the same location even if they started out hundreds or thousands of miles away.

You're telling me they hijack radio signals to serenade their other half? But do so on the low down, so low humans haven't cottoned on? I'm both impressed and concerned. Also, do they cut ties with their trainers to live among the clouds and nom on signals and unformed lightning bolts?

Curiously, magnezone have a strong sense of justice. Magnezone on the surface are known to badly wound any carnivores they witness hunting. Human criminals caught stealing or engaged in violent crime will also catch a powerful thunderbolt, although it will seldom be lethal. Magnezone have a strong aversion to killing and can apparently calculate how to badly wound their target without dealing a fatal blow.

Oh jeeze, I'm shocked the police officers don't use these guys instead of the Arcanine line in canon?

Husbandry

Magnemite are quite easy to care for so long as their trainer is very mindful of any electronics around. Most Pokémon Centers have well insulated rooms and equipment. If this is the case, then magnemite can be safely allowed to explore their trainer’s room. Introducing a magnemite to a common area is still usually a faux pas due to the damage they can do to other trainers’ personal electronics. Most pokédex models are well insulated, but most cell phones are not.

I imagine many a junior trainer triggered a rivalry for taking their mag' out for walksies... and frying some other trainer's phone and not having enough to pay it off. Kinda a reverse Misty/Ash scenario.

Magnemite won’t kill a device just by being in the same room as it. Using an attack nearby or getting within a meter is likely to fry anything sophisticated and unprotected.

The entire line feeds upon electricity. They prefer direct current but will happily lap up alternating current as well. Many Pokémon Centers have specially designated power feeding rooms for electric-types. Those that do not will have batteries for sale that are designed for feeding electric-types. Magnemite will know what to do in either case. In an emergency, magnemite can feed directly from a generator. The trainer should ask permission before doing this. When a magnemite begins to droop closer to the ground or move slower, they should be fed. If a magnemite has a far higher energy level than usual, their intake should be reduced and they should be used in battle immediately to prevent random EMPs.

As mentioned above, magnemite are neither social nor curious. They will sometimes orbit their trainer, but this is about as far as they go in terms of play. Because they do not get bored, magnemite and magneton are quite comfortable spending almost all of their time inside of a pokéball. If a trainer really wants to interact with their pokémon, polishing the shell appears to make a magnemite happier.

Magneton and magnezone are far more prone to firing out random EMPs than magnemite. Magneton care is much the same as magnemite. Trainers should take time to learn the pokémon’s new personality quirks and ease them into their new power away from human civilization and its unshielded electronics.

And also the unsheilded elderly and their implants..

Magnezone are a slightly different story. Unlike magnemite, which bond to anything that regularly feeds them, magnezone can always just drift off into the clouds if they want food. It is very difficult to bond with a magnezone unless they already have some faith in their trainer. Even then, newly evolved magnezone are still prone to just drifting off and never coming back. They will usually only stay with trainers who battle with them often and well. Magnezone like to spend at least a few hours at night out of their pokéballs. This should be allowed, if only because charge taken from the clouds is charge that does not have to be paid for. Magnezone are always emitting waves, but most of these are harmless to human health. They can be absolutely devastating to personal electronics. Magnezone that grew up in human care typically know how to avoid damaging electronics, but any unshielded device that gets too close to their body may still end up fried. It is best to keep them in their pokéball whenever possible in the city.

As with their prior stages, magnezone do not require socialization. It is believed that they are always communicating with other magnezone and don’t see a point in bonding with humans or other species. Training and polishing are all they want from a trainer.

Illness

Most magnemite “illnesses” are simply a result of low charge. If they are behaving unusually and have not been charged since their last battle or within the last week, let the magnemite charge for a while and then see if the problem is resolved.

Physical damage is rare. Most battles with a magnemite end when they lose charge, not when they’re shell is broken. If the shell is ever broken, they were probably in a battle where they were dramatically outclassed. There is also very little that can be done to repair a wounded magnemite. If a magnezone is on hand, the repairs can be made. However, the force required to twist a magnemite back into shape is likely to generate powerful EMPs and alter the magnemite’s personality upon reboot.

If a magnezone gets seriously wounded they will float as high as it can and explode. Should a magnezone be killed in a way that does not even allow them to do that, they will probably explode within fifteen minutes of death.

Evolution

Magnemite evolve when a group of three combat-tested magnemite encounter each other. They will engage in a three-way melee until only one still has charge. The winner will charge themselves and then bond with the other two. This involves removing one screw from each, releasing the caps of their own screws and then linking their screws through the holes left in the other magnemite. The new magneton will position themselves in the air so that the dominant magnemite is on top.

Magneton only evolve in places where a very large amount of electricity has been readily available for some time. The magneton will spend even more time than usual charging. Sometimes they will leave to pick up the pieces of dead magnemite and integrate them into their own body. When there are no dead magnemite around, the magneton will simply kill one for parts. During the period where the dominant magnemite’s body is being expanded and restructured, most of the magneton’s cognition occurs in the auxiliary magnemite’s processing chips.

Once a magnezone body is fully completed, the newly evolved pokémon will fly up into the clouds. They will only descend again to breed.

Battle

Magnezone has a limited number of strategies and a limited movepool. But it is very effective at using what options it does have.

Their main role in combat is to levitate high enough over the field that grounded melee attacks cannot reach them. From there they fire off devastating thunderbolts, flash cannons and hyper beams until their target faints. They can also take a moment to lock onto a fast-moving target and all but guarantee that their next attack fries them. This makes them a particularly good counter to glass cannons and arena controllers.

Magnezone are also one of the best counters to steel-types in the metagame. Their unique abilities prevent steel-types from being withdrawn from the field while magnezone is in play. Magnezone can hover above a steel-type and then use their magnetism to pull their target up into the air. Once the target is almost to magnezone, they can be repulsed down towards the ground. This can be repeated until the target has fainted or magnezone runs out of charge.

Magnezone essentially only faint when they lose power.

I'm imagining the sound my phone makes when it dies/is on low charge as it's K.O. sound effect...

This means that every action, offensive and defensive, takes a toll on their staying power. As such using protect to avoid injury is actually counter-productive, because the shield costs more power than just taking the impact would. This means that stalling them out with a pokémon who can take all of the hits a magnezone can dish out and keep going is usually the best counter-strategy. Blissey, gastrodon, swampert, hippowdon and snorlax can’t do much to hurt magnezone, but magnezone can do very little to hurt them, either. Because magnezone have a clear tell in their attacks (an orb forming in their horseshoe magnets), it’s easy enough to outplay them with mixed protects, recovery moves and occasional attacks. Magnezone will inevitably switch out, but this at least gives the opponent some time to set up hazards or stat boosts.

The best offensive checks to magnezone are generally dragons that can take them on in the air and dish out powerful fire attacks. Hydreigon is their most reliable counter in the metagame, although they are quite rare. Flygon are a tricky matchup: magnezone is likely to take them down with two or three locked-on hyper beams, but flygon’s ground-type attacks can dampen and drain electrical charge, wearing magnezone down quickly. Who goes down first is essentially random.

Due to their limited movepool, magnezone battle similarly on the island challenge as in the competitive circuits. Any trainer with a magnezone is likely to breeze through all but the toughest of late challenge fights.

Magnemite are a common enough choice on the island challenge. They are surprisingly bulky, especially if their trainer can afford an eviolite. Their defensive typing and limited ability to hover away from attacks enhances this. They aren’t particularly weak, either, and unlike most walls they won’t have to rely on poisons or chip damage. However, anything they can’t hurt with thunderbolt probably won’t be hurt at all. Fighting- and fire-types can also usually overpower magnemite.

Magneton are stronger than magnemite offensively but have similar speed and most of the same defensive weaknesses. They can still pull their weight through the end of the island challenge.

Honestly, they are monsters in all the regions they exist in... not just Alola.

Acquisition

The DNR runs a campaign to capture any magnemite they find near human settlements. There are very few wild magneton in Alola. Occasionally a magnezone will show up and undo all of the DNR’s hard work, but this is a once-in-a-decade event.

There are only two permanent magnemite colonies in Alola. The first is usually around Hau’oli City. They move between homes and infrastructure with unsecured electricity, finding a new home when they are shooed away. Locating the colony after a move carries a $500 reward. The other colony is on the outlying islands. Most magneton that do manage to evolve are relocated here, which in turn makes it the place that magnezone usually descend to breed (see Breeding). The government operates a poorly secured offshore windfarm here to drive magnemite away from the populated areas. The property itself is run by a private corporation that charges trainers for each magnemite captured.

Magnemite require a Class II license to adopt, purchase or capture.

Magneton and magnezone may not be captured due to the risks involved in bringing a wild specimen into an urban area. They may be purchased or adopted so long as their original trainer captured them as a magnemite. Magneton and magnezone require a Class III license to possess.

Breeding

Some mineral pokémon reproduce in a way that, in spite of their strange biology, actually bears a good deal of resemblance to conventional organic reproduction. Magnezone is not one of these pokémon.

Sometimes two magnezone will depart from their trainer or orbit and meet up at the place where one member of the pair evolved at. The pair will first conduct repairs on all magnemite and magneton present. When this is finished, the native magnezone will scrounge up enough material to create eight new magnemite. They prefer to do this by recycling the bodies of magnemite that were beyond repair, but they can use their magnetism to mine and purify the necessary materials if need be. Then the non-native magnezone will shape the materials into their final form. The resulting babies have (roughly) the material composition of the native magnezone and the structure of the non-native magnezone.

Anecdotal reports from trainers suggest that magnezone reproduce exactly twice in their lives. They typically do so during periods of unusual solar radiation, such as during sunspots. Sometimes meteorite strikes or passing comets will also trigger reproduction.

It is impossible to breed magnezone in captivity. Captive magnezone will simply float away to reproduce whenever and wherever they feel like it. Some will return after roughly three weeks. Most will not. If your magnezone departs, stay in roughly the same area and make frequent phone calls. If the magnezone has not returned after six weeks then they are not coming back.

Relatives

It is difficult to determine the closest relatives to mineral pokémon as they lack DNA. Some have theorized that magnezone are related to metagross as they are both potential or confirmed extraterrestrials that assemble their offspring and live off the ground. There are good reasons to doubt this connection. Magnezone need to absorb electricity from the environment. Metagross contain a series of reactors that power themselves, although they do occasionally eat meat for fun or intimidation. Radioactive material need to be consumed from time to time to power their reactors. Metagross reproduction also only involves one parent and begins a steady countdown to their demise. Magnezone appear to need two parents but the process does not actively harm either.

Probopass have similar connections to magnezone and assemble their offspring. The composition of probopass is rather different from magnezone as they contain more non-metallic materials. They also cannot fly very high into the air. Instead of scavenging on electricity they feed upon metal and ambient magnetic fields.

For the time being, magnezone are classified in the order Magne with probopass. The classification is controversial within the scientific community.

Thanks for sharing this fun spark bug.

 

[K_S]

Let's keep the electricity flowing shall we. Jolteon review time!

Jolteon
Mutatiovulpes octuplumiter - 2

Mutation fox, love the pun.

Overview

In the pre-industrial era jolteon were one of the rarest of the eeveelutions, evolving only around areas of natural electric energy.

I can imagine that's changed by a landslide per technology updates... everywhere.

These most often occurred in places with a high concentration of electric-types, such as caves with metals such as manganese and copper. Eevee are not naturally suited to caves of any kind, so only eevee that happened to live above these caves or around the mouth would evolve into jolteon. The rise of power stations and lines, as well as appliances entering into every home, made jolteon one of the most common eeveelutions, rivaled only by espeon and umbreon.

Jolteon are well-suited for trainers in a number of ways. They are one of the only eeveelutions that is almost entirely herbivorous. Unlike most electric-types they do not need to consume electricity on a regular basis, allowing trainers to plot out journeys without factoring in proximity to the power grid.

They're the only non-electric suckers. I'm shocked (pun intended) they aren't the most popular electric type ever.

They are also generalists that can be comfortable in all but the hottest and coldest of environments. Jolteon do not actively damage electronics, unlike magnezone or hodad, making them reasonably safe in a home environment.

I can imagine they're a popular pet too.

There are a few drawbacks to jolteon, however. They can be very high energy during storms, wanting to race around the largest area possible and play. It is unsafe for their trainer to come outside to play with them during an electrical storm as they will die if hit by lightning. Jolteon do not see lightning as something to fear and will become irritated with their trainer’s apparent irrationality or cowardice. In general they are prone to mood swings and can go from furious or heartbroken to playful in the span of a minute. They are known for being dramatic and needing a great deal of attention, either from their trainer or mate.

Trainers who want an electric-type but are unwilling to give up electronic devices are well served by jolteon. They should simply be aware that jolteon may not actually give them the time to use those devices.

So cue every coordinator and media person who wants an electric-type is cuing up for a Jolteon.

Physiology

Jolteon are classified as pure electric-types.

Jolteon are quadrupeds with a typical canine body shape. Their ears are long and quite sensitive. They are usually tucked back but can be raised upright when something has caught the pokémon’s attention. Most of jolteon’s fur is yellow, except for a white main around the neck. Many of these hairs are hollow and contain a sharp tip. Jolteon can use static electricity to raise up these quills and become very difficult to attack without being harmed. Most of the time the quills rest against the body. Jolteon’s tail is very short and often difficult to see as it is surrounded by a tuft of fur.

I can not imagine that this mon is safe to pet if it's pelt is quills and electricity...

Two of jolteon’s most important adaptations are their lungs and legs. Jolteon can rapidly accelerate to speeds of over eighty miles an hour. They cannot maintain these speeds for more than two to three minutes because their lungs are not particularly well adapted for long distance running. They lungs contain unique cells that produce electricity with every breath. Even while at rest jolteon’s exhales have a crackling sound. After running a great deal of energy will be built up in the lungs, making it difficult to breathe unless the electricity is vented out as an extremely powerful lightning bolt.

So as they charge, they're building up a charge? Love the pun, and I imagine that makes them a bit of a Roy Jenkins in battles.

Anything still pursuing will almost certainly be incapacitated by the attack. The jolteon can resume running about ten seconds after the discharge of electricity in the lungs.

Can they choke like that?

Jolteon have the longest gut of any eeveelution. This is necessary to get enough energy to run from their herbivorous diet. Leafeon, the only other herbivorous eeveelution, can photosynthesize for food and only rarely needs to eat plant matter.

Jolteon typically grow to be thirty-five to forty inches long. Typical specimens weigh less than thirty pounds, although one obese jolteon was recorded as weighing fifty-two. Wild lifespans are around fifteen years. Captive specimens usually live for around twenty-five years.

Behavior

Jolteon live in family groups (charges) consisting of a mated pair and all offspring that wish to remain in the group. Eevee can leave once a new litter is born, but many choose to remain for several years afterwards. Foraging is generally non-cooperative outside of demonstrating techniques to the youngest litter. They are primarily nocturnal but have often been observed foraging and playing during the day, usually during storms.

I wonder if charges live next to pikachus and if the two ping off of each other to have massive lighting play raves?

Jolteon usually sleep in a heap on the surface with one member of the charge staying awake to watch out for threats.

Jolteon dig relatively short burrows to rest in. When threatened they will often dive into the burrow and raise their quills to deter would-be predators. If cornered without sufficient charge they can run backwards at, quills raised, to run the aggressor through.

shudders, they're stab happy critters aren't they?

Jolteon can also launch the quills, but this requires regrowing them in the future. As such the backwards charge is preferred against all but the most dangerous of opponents. Few things prey on jolteon as a result, finding the risk of electrocution or impalement to be too much trouble.

I imagine only ground types could tolerate eating it, and most aren't carnivores...

Unlike most canines, jolteon are primarily herbivorous. They spend most of their nights digging for roots and tubers or foraging for fruit. Near human settlements they will happily eat any crops they come across, earning the ire of local farmers. Jolteon have also been known to use their claws and teeth to strip off bark, letting them eat the softer flesh of the tree.

Jolteon have been known to gnaw at any bones they find and even use them as toys or tools. One jolteon was observed brandishing a rib as a crude weapon. Charges can also scare off birds of prey from a kill site, threatening to electrocute them unless they leave the carcass behind. Jolteon take these opportunities to eat meat, although they never actively hunt. Too much meat in the diet can lead to digestive problems and obesity.

Behavior

A captive jolteon’s diet should consist of a combination of pre-made herbivore and leaf-eater mixes, whole maize, fresh greens and berries.

In short they are going to hit the salad bar. And drag their trainer with them.

More ambitious trainers can attempt to craft a nutritionally balanced diet without commercial mixes. It is recommended that trainers consult with a veterinarian or pokémon nutritionist before going down this route. Carnivores are relatively simple to feed without relying on commercial pellets, but herbivores require a mix of different nutrients. A bone with some meat on it can be provided as a rare reward but should not be a regular part of the diet.

Jolteon should almost always have access to at least one water bowl. Jolteon like water and will often flip over their bowl and wallow in the newly created mud if there is not a water feature nearby to swim or bathe in.

Oh boy, how does that not leave them discharging electricity everywhere while playing?

Pokémon Center pools are unsuitable for this purpose as the jolteon might electrocute the other pokémon in the pool. Bathtubs work but the pokémon may end up making a mess of the area. Never get into the water with a jolteon. If the jolteon cannot wash itself make sure to wear a rubber protective suit when bathing the pokémon.

Jolteon appreciate wide open spaces and places to burrow. If it is not suitable to burrow anywhere a dark, secluded place should be provided. A jolteon confined to the inside of a room or building may cause property damage when agitated. Bored jolteon have also been known to steadily pick at something in their surroundings until it eventually breaks.

The main problem with raising jolteon is their mood swings. Jolteon can go from heartbroken to furious and back within seconds and will often demand attention when they are feeling emotional. These shifts occur most often when they are alert. Jolteon are nocturnal. This means that they will bother their trainer in the middle of the night with a pressing emotional concern that may disappear within minutes, sometimes replaced by a different but equally powerful emotion. Having a mate or at least a nocturnal teammate is crucial if the trainer wants to sleep peacefully at night. Otherwise it might be prudent to shift to a reversed sleep schedule of activity at night and rest during the day.

Jolteon prefer to sleep against their trainer. Be very careful when sharing a space with a sleeping jolteon. Sometimes their quills will perk up due to a nightmare or they will accidentally release a small shock. Jolteon can sleep in a stasis ball but become very lonely in habitat balls. This is a problem that can also be solved by giving the jolteon someone else to cuddle. Luxray and manectric are particularly well-suited for this role.

Jolteon can be safely pet when their quills are not raised. Always pet from the head to the tail. Gloves are recommended but not required.

Regular gloves, or plastic gloves, with a bracer to defuse discharge?

Illness

Jolteon suffer from many of the same problems as the other eeveelutions, including rabies and canine parovirus. They will need to be vaccinated against both, as well as tetanus.

The most unique health problem jolteon suffer from is ingrown quills. Just like humans sometimes get ingrown hairs, jolteon’s quills will sometimes not properly grow out and become entirely or partially lodged underneath the skin. The difficulty in removing the quill depends on the extent to which it is ingrown. Entirely ingrown quills are best handled by a veterinarian under anesthetic.

Putting a jolteon to sleep is also somewhat complicated. Their quills are longer than most needles, making injection a risky endeavor. Hypnosis and sleep powder are the preferred methods instead. Not every Pokémon Center will have a pokémon available to use these techniques. Thankfully ingrown quills do not usually cause the jolteon distress and removal can wait until a suitable pokémon arrives.

Evolution

Eevee are most likely to evolve into jolteon when they grow up in urban environments or around power plants. Some areas also carry a natural charge, including Vast Poni Canyon. Trainers who have money and do not wish to leave the evolution to chance can use a thunder stone to induce evolution. The stone can be kept away from the eevee to gradually cause evolution, at which point it can be resold. This method still carries some risk of another evolution occurring in the meantime. The only surefire way to get a jolteon is to give an eevee a thunder stone and let it be used up.

Battle

Electric-types are great on the competitive circuits. Fliers hard counter many melee attackers, so melee heavy teams want to stock up on electric types, as wing paralysis can easily bring a bird back down to earth. Jolteon is fast and reasonably strong. It could have a niche. But in high level play, where trainers can afford the absolute best pokémon at their role, jolteon is almost never seen.

But it's the best eeveelution (first gen anyway)! I'm feeling second-hand outrage at how bad my favorite porcupine 'mon is being treated here.

Vikavolt, hodad, magnezone, rotom, and other airborne electric-types can glide above seismic waves, strike down birds, and put distance between themselves and the strong physical attackers that could threaten them.

Jolteon is relatively frail and unable to fly. It is very vulnerable to seismic moves that can trip it up and dampen electric elemental energy. Aside from its quills jolteon have fairly minimal defenses. Even their bones are lighter than the other eeveelutions to allow for faster running speeds. Like most eeveelutions, jolteon have fantastic power in their specialized element but relatively few tricks outside of it. Ground types can completely wall it and ranged attackers can usually take it down with a few hits, striking from a distance where the quills don’t matter.

On the island challenge, resources and ease of care and capture matter a lot more than they do to professionals. Hodad and magnezone’s device breaking magnetic fields disqualifies them for many trainers. Vikavolt are difficult to earn the respect of. Jolteon, emotional issues aside, are fairly low maintenance. Ground-types are rare in Alola and most trainers do not have one, making the lack of coverage a non-factor in most matches. Jolteon’s speed lets them outpace most opponents and until the end of the challenge powerful and accurate ranged attacks are rare. Jolteon do two things, run away and throw lightning bolts, but they do them well.

And if paired in doubles, those no-flying skills could be countered with a partner who can fly, then no one would be safe...

Acquisition

A few wild jolteon have been observed in Alola, mostly near Heahea City. These may have been strays. There is no evidence a this point of a wild eevee evolving into Jolteon in Alola, largely due to the rural area they currently call home.

Jolteon can be adopted or purchased with a Class III license. Capture is currently prohibited to allow the DNR a chance to study whatever wild populations crop up.

I wonder why it has such a high level, they seem pretty tame to other level threes. I mean they aren't too bad...

Breeding

Jolteon have no external sex differences. Both sex organs are stored inside the body with the penis only protruding during the copulation. It is possible to manipulate the groin to determine the sex of a jolteon, but this is best done while the pokémon is heavily sedated.

Mating rituals are initiated by the male. He will approach a prospective mate while making high-pitched squeaking sounds, only to abruptly retreat when he gets close. This will continue until the female either walks away, displaying a lack of interest, or charges the male when he tries to retreat, displaying acceptance. The two will then make an expanded burrow network before copulation. Pregnancy lasts approximately two months, at which point the female will give birth to one to three eevee. The mother will rarely let the eevee leave her side until they are six months old and never let them out of sight until they evolve or a new litter is conceived. New litters are born about once a year, although if a litter is lost to stillbirth, disease, or predation a new one will be conceived almost immediately.

Relatives

Consult the Eevee entry for more information.

Well that was informative, thanks for sharing and off to another 'mon!

 

[K_S]

Let's look at another eevee shall we?

Sylveon
Mutatiovulpex octoplumiter – 8

Overview

Because of their loyalty and rarity, sylveon have been mythologized as the attendants of gods, alchemists, and heroes.

It makes an interesting spin on the "earning a ribbon of a noble ladies favor". I'm imagining a knight being passed out in a ribbon fox instead of the traditional bow of favor...

It's a stretch on the idea of hero but it popped into my head.

There are several variations on a dragonslayer myth where a local folk hero and their trusted sylveon band together to take down a dragon-type that was threatening a village. In the east it was believed that the moon goddess was accompanied by a sylveon who delivered messages between the moon and earth. In North Africa there are tales of an alchemist from across the desert who discovered the secret to immortality with the help of his sylveon. Isaac Newton famously bought a sylveon in hopes that it would help him discover the elixir of immortality.

Instead Isaac irritated his little ribbon fox, it pinged him with an applin, and he was immortalized... into schoolbooks and clich'e.

Actual sylveon often fail to live up to their larger-than-life reputation. They still have their strengths, like being affectionate and compassionate pets that have easier care requirements than other eeveelutions. On the battlefield they can fill offensive or defensive roles to suit the needs of the team.

Other trainers are interested in sylveon for their emotional manipulation abilities. Sylveon can read the emotions of others. They can also alter emotional states with their feelers. A well-trained sylveon can reduce violent feelings in the surrounding area to defuse fights.

I could see them being popular in doctor offices and the psychology field.

Less nobly, they can trick prey into letting their guard down. This ability combined with their caring nature makes them sought after by those with emotional dysregulation or severe depression.

Actually obtaining a sylveon can be difficult. Doing so reliably requires either multiple fairy-type teammates or a fairy Z-crystal. The current fairy-type trial is on Poni Island, traditionally the last step on a trainer’s journey.

Wow, you gotta wait until the end game to get one, that's horrid.

Physiology

Sylveon are classified as pure fairy-types. Newton’s research on sylveon actually led to the designation of fairies as a separate typing in the scientific establishment rather than as a subclass of normal- or dark-types.

Sylveon are quadrupedal mammals with short white fur. The fur on their tail, paws, and upper head is pink. Sylveon’s ears can be over ten inches long.

Those are huge ears. I wonder how it manages doors?

Their ears are rounded, unlike the ears of the other eeveelution’s. The ears can either loosely hang down beside the head or be lifted upright to maximize hearing. Sylveon have large, blue eyes. They can make out details at long distances. Some scientists have theorized that their eyes are designed for seeing details in the night sky.

The most distinctive trait of sylveon are their feelers. Sylveon have four long feelers extending from their head. These feelers do not contain muscles. They are instead filled with sensory receptors and charged with fairy-energy. Sylveon can manipulate this energy to move their feelers. The pink and blue tips of the feelers can be wrapped around an organism to enhance their effects. From a range sylveon can get a general read on emotions and slightly manipulate them. With a touch sylveon can get detailed information on the target’s emotional state and make major changes, although the changes are mostly undone when contact is lost. Two bow-like growths on the head may have similar effects. There is currently very little information on what sylveon’s bows actually do. Some experts have theorized that they manage the long-term effects of the sylveon’s emotional abilities while the feelers can only work by touch.

Sylveon are primarily herbivorous, and their stomach and intestines are designed to break down plant matter.

Sylveon usually grow to be twenty-seven inches tall at the withers. The average sylveon weighs about forty pounds, although one very obese individual weighed seventy. Captive specimens can live for up to sixty years. Little is known about the lifespan of wild sylveon.

Behavior

Wild sylveon have occasionally been sighted in the British Isles, especially within the Glimwood Tangle.

It fits the fey wavelength of those ribbon fixes.

The nature of their home makes it difficult to observe them. Most research on wild sylveon behaviors has been done on released sylveon or those that are owned by a trainer but are effectively left to fend for themselves.

Sylveon seem to be unafraid of humans and most predators.

I mean, they can manipulate mood, just tug that fear string and make a face, and anything sane will book it.

They may keep an eye on a nearby carnivore but will seldom move to defend themselves. Even if they are attacked a single touch can entirely drain the enemy’s will to fight. At this point the sylveon can send the predator on their way or kill them at close range while they do nothing to resist. Many prey species try to stay near sylveon in hopes of avoiding their own predators. Sometimes this backfires when the sylveon incapacitates and kills them for food.

Much of a sylveon’s day is spent grazing on root vegetables, grasses, flowers, and low-hanging fruit. They only rarely eat meat. When they are not grazing they will usually nap in a sunbeam, seemingly oblivious to any dangers nearby. At night they have been known to walk into a clearing and stare at the moon for hours. Anything that interrupts their moon watching may be attacked. Around the new moon sylveon sleep at night and are more active during the day. Captive sylveon typically eat more around new moons. This is probably to make up for lost grazing hours during full moons.

Wild sylveon are typically very attached to their mate. The two rarely stray from each other. This mate is not always of the opposite sex. Sylveon are also quite willing to mate with other species as long as they are intelligent and willing to join them in their moon watching.

How romantic. I wonder if they'd ever attach to an observatory workers for free high quality moon/planet watching.

Sylveon in relationships that make child-birthing impossible will often find other eevee or small mammals to adopt and raise as their own.

You will be adopted, whether you want to be or not. Every non-fertle Sylveon, ever. Wonder if they attach to cubones in droves.

Most fairy-types ignore dragons. Dragons, in turn, ignore them. Sylveon are one of the few fairies that seem to be naturally hostile towards dragons. Even specimens that are reluctant battlers will gleefully attack dragons much larger than them.

Husbandry

Sylveon are primarily herbivorous. Half their diet should be made up of hay with another half composed of roots, tubers, legumes, mushrooms, flowers, and fruit. Meat should be given sparingly, once a week at most. Sylveon that do not frequently battle can be given meat once a month, ideally around the newmoon.

Huh, I wonder why the moon is so relevant to their digestion.

Many captive sylveon have a sweet tooth and will happily eat baked goods, especially those with a cinnamon flavor.

I'm imagining a trainer with an appltun, Alcremie, and the Sylveon being the happiest thing in existence as a result.

These make for good treats but should not be the core of the diet. Water should be provided every few hours. If the sylveon drinks all water provided it should be given more until it loses interest. Ideally a sylveon should be fed around 15% of their body weight per day around the new moon, dropping to less than 5% on the day of the full moon.

Sylveon can be easily litter trained by watching other pokémon doing so. If there are no other litter-trained pokémon on the team they can be taught through pictures or videos. Sylveon are usually eager to please and will quickly learn once they learn their trainer wants them to do so. Make sure that any litter provided to them is edible. Sylveon are habitual nibblers that will chew anything strange in their environment. They produce two types of feces, moist and dry. Sylveon will often eat the moist pellets. There is no health risk to them doing so but many trainers are uncomfortable with the idea. They can be trained not to eat their feces by spritzes of water when the behavior is observed.

The vast majority of sylveon despise pokéballs.

A lot of mon seem to hate them. Not just Ash's Pikachu...

They want to spend almost all of their time within sight of their trainer. Mated sylveon are a little less codependent but still dislike pokéballs. Excessive use is the fastest way to lose a sylveon’s favor. Because sylveon hate leaving their trainer’s sight and want to spend nights staring at the full moon they appreciate trainers who are willing to sleep outside for at least one week a month. Some specimens will accept their trainer sleeping in a room with a skylight or window with a good view of the moon. A minority will tolerate being outside with a good view of their trainer through a window.

Clingy thy name is Sylv', I'm surprised trainers don't wake up to those ribbons wrapped around their legs every morning to keep them at home for more snuggles.

On nights where the moon is not visible sylveon may be distressed. They will accept sleeping indoors with their trainer as long as they are let out every few hours to check for the moon’s return.

Sylveon are a clever species that loves new toys and environments. Unlike most clever pokémon they will not usually break things or touch objects their trainer does not want them to. They should still be provided with new toys on a monthly basis or whenever they begin to show signs of boredom. Baskets are excellent toys as they are a place to hide and rest that can also be nibbled on. Replace the basket when it becomes too worn down.

Baskets as toys? There's a mental image of them sprawled inside, their ribbons awave, like animate knitting supplies with a cuddle complex...

Most captive sylveon see their trainer as a bonded partner akin to a mate. This bond is not the same as that between mates. Sylveon are aware that the feelings are unreciprocated and will place different expectations on the trainer-pokémon relationship than they would with a mate. They will still want to spend a great deal of time around their trainer. They hate it when their trainer keeps secrets from them, even if it is to orchestrate a surprise party or gift. Sylveon that have a mate are less demanding but will still expect regular socialization.

Illness

Sylveon’s main health problems are gastrointestinal. If they refuse a regular feeding present them with a treat. If the treat is accepted but the food is refused there may be a buildup of gas in the GI tract. This can often be cured by putting the sylveon on top of a running washer or dryer and letting trapped gasses shake out.

Tips head, that's one solution to get gas out. I wonder what trainers do on the road? Frequent laundrymats? That'd eventually trigger a ban I'm sure.

Be aware that sylveon can be quick to learn that refusing food can result in treats. Some will intentionally feign illness to receive a treat. If a sylveon has begun to do this then some meal refusals should randomly result in a trip to a veterinarian. The behavior will likely stop after a few visits.

If both the meal and treat are refused, assume that there is an emergency. Withdraw the sylveon and visit a veterinarian as soon as possible.

A more peculiar malady for sylveon is emotionally overload. Being in areas of heated emotions for a prolonged period can result in headaches, fatigue, and even a fever. This occurs most commonly in areas with large numbers of people. So long as the sylveon can retreat to a private place the issue is unlikely to occur. Be careful when taking a sylveon near funerals, sporting events, protests, or other events likely to invoke strong reactions from a large number of people.

Evolution

Eevee evolve into sylveon when they have been exposed to a great deal of fairy elemental energy. The easiest way to trigger this is to teach an eevee baby-doll eyes and have the pokémon use the move at least once a day while boosted by a Z-crystal. This requires having a Z-crystal and clearing the fairy-type trial. Frequent Z-crystal usage can also be dangerous for those with heart conditions.

Raising an eevee around multiple fairy-types is the second most reliable way to trigger the evolution. This has the downside of only being plausible for trainers with a fairy specialty. Thankfully sylveon can learn mystical fire and psyshock, making them a solid choice for fairy specialists.

Battle

Sylveon are strong, can wall attackers, and have a great supporting movepool. They can either take the offense with powerful moonblasts, supported by decent coverage options, or act as a cleric and tank. Options for clerics include wish, heal bell, reflect, light screen, and healing kiss. Sylveon can do their job at even the highest levels of competitive play. They remain one of the most popular fairies in even the highest levels of play.

They still have their share of weaknesses. The first is that while sylveon are strong and durable, they are not the strongest attackers or the most durable wall. They also compete with florges and togekiss for their niche as bulky fairy attackers.

Sylveon can sponge elemental hits well. They are physically frail. Some melee attackers can be shut down with a flick of a ribbon. Others are not so easily countered. Pokémon with blade-like appendages can make it too dangerous for a sylveon to try and send out a ribbon when their opponent makes contact. Some attackers, such as machamp, can put enough power into a punch to do serious damage in a single hit. Many of the strongest melee attackers are dragons and fighting-types that sylveon can punish, but if they have the speed to get in close they can turn the battle in their favor. Mineral pokémon are more difficult for sylveon to manipulate. Steel-types also have an elemental advantage. Melee steel attackers are the best counters to sylveon.

Finally, sylveon are quite slow. They are ranged attackers so this is not a debilitating weakness. It still means that they cannot easily dodge attacks or outrun dangerous opponents trying to get in close. This is less of a drawback than it could be as sylveon can tank most ranged elemental attacks. Getting close is also not ideal as sylveon can potentially drain their opponent’s will to fight with a touch and proceed to finish the battle at their own pace. Their lack of speed does preclude them from using their ribbons as an offensive weapon against all but the slowest of opponents.

Sylveon are excellent at defeating totems with their ribbons. If sylveon can touch the opponent they can often end the battle then and there. Most totems are slow and grounded. They are used to being able to take lots of attacks before going down. Those that have never fought a sylveon may not even know what they should be concerned about.

Trainer battles are harder. Most of the kahunas are experienced enough to know how to deal with sylveon – slowly and at range, or with a single powerful melee attack.

Sylveon trainers at the amateur level should choose whether they want to specialize on offense or utility. Offense-oriented trainers may want to save up for TMs for mystical fire and psyshock, sylveon’s best coverage options. Trainers hoping for a utility sylveon should figure out what roles they need filled and set about finding opportunities for their sylveon to learn the techniques.

Acquisition

Sylveon do not occur in the wild in Alola. Adoption and purchase opportunities are rare as sylveon tend to fare poorly when removed from their trainer. Adoptions are handled on a case-by-case basis.

Breeding

Sylveon tend to mate in the early spring. After a roughly fifty day pregnancy they will give birth to six to eight eevee. Both parents keep a close eye on their offspring for the first three months. Usually one parent will leave to graze or explore while the other keeps an eye on the eevee. Sylveon do not build dens or burrows. Those with young eevee may take shelter in tall grass for a time.

For sylveon mating is less about childrearing and attraction and more about companionship. Sylveon spend almost all of their time around their mates and grow distraught when they cannot find them. Most sylveon die shortly after their mate’s passing. Sylveon are the easiest to breed with other species so long as the mate is intelligent and willing to indulge the sylveon’s more eccentric habits.

Eccentric habits, nah, compared to some of the other entries, these guys are angels.

Captive sylveon with a mate-like bond with their trainer will still pick a mate when they find one who can reciprocate their feelings. For the wellbeing of the sylveon both mates should be owned by the same trainer. The trainer will still be held in high regard and trusted to help take care of any of their offspring.

Relatives

Consult the Eevee entry for more information.

 

[K_S]

Reviewing Flareon, the OG fluff firebug!

Flareon
Mutatiovulpes octoplumiter – 3

Octo makes me think eight, I wonder if there's another eevee discovered, if it'll update the latin name?

Overview

Flareon have among the highest average body temperatures of any mammal as well as the highest recorded body temperature. Their flames are hot enough to melt iron, although they cannot project them very far or maintain them for long. They are best suited for fire-type specialists who know how to handle high-temperature pokémon.

I can imagine them being super popular with metal workers.

Still, flareon have a low enough skin and fur temperature that it is safe to pet a relaxed flareon. Trainers well-versed in the care of similar species can safely handle one with a small investment in protective equipment. In Alola they compete for a team slot with torracat, houndoom and arcanine, similar pokémon with much less risk of burning their trainer on accident.

And also not giving the trainer permanent nerve damage (glares at houndoom). Plus, you just swing them over your shoulders for the ice areas, and you get a stylish self-warming throw for the hike.

Flamethrowers being tossed at harassing mon are just a perk.

Flareon has the highest care difficulty of any eeveelution, but some trainers find them cute and personable enough to make the experience more than worth it.

Guilty (singsonged).

Physiology

Flareon are classified as pure fire-types.

By far the most interesting feature of flareon is their incredibly high body temperatures. Their resting internal temperature is approximately 280° F, above the boiling point of water. Flareon blood has dissolved compounds that raise the boiling point to above this threshold. When agitated or threatened their body temperature can spike to well over 1000° for short periods of time. That temperature is more than enough to boil even flareon blood. To survive these temperatures flareon must keep their body highly pressurized. Wounds are instantly cauterized to prevent pressure from being released. Breathing and waste release are done by highly specialized organs designed to retain internal temperatures and pressures.

I'm imagining wounded Flare's whistling like tea kettles.

Flareon’s skin and fur are secondary lines of defense. Flareon have black skin hidden by their thick red and orange fur. Their fur is an extremely effective fire retardant. It is also very thick with up to 50,000 hair follicles per square inch.

Holy floof, that's a ton of fur. I can only imagine the sheer amount of grooming needed to keep it up.

The fur is thickest and has the lightest coloration around the neck. The density and length of the fur makes it a powerful insulator that keeps body heat trapped within, reducing the amount of energy needed to maintain high body temperatures. The skin is very thick and contains no blood vessels near the surface. As mentioned above any wounds deep enough to bleed are instantly cauterized. This is done through a process similar to the move flare blitz, where very hot fire covers the exterior of the body. The process is automatic and near instantaneous. It may happen before the pokémon even realizes it has been wounded.

Kinda makes them sound like Superman, not able to get harmed from hits. I wonder how their pain management is due to this defense mechanism?

Flareon look like fairly typical feline or vulpine Pokémon, aside from their very fluffy mane, tail, and upper head. Their ears are long and pointed like most of the eeveelutions, granting them a keen sense of hearing. Very little blood flows through the external ear to minimize the surface area where hot blood is near relatively cool air. The cells of the ear are designed to efficiently pass water between them, rather than relying on blood vessels to deliver it.

A final difference from most canines or felines is that flareon’s face is quite flat. Their eyes are large and expressive, with rounded pupils rather than the slitted ones of the other eeveelutions. The rounded pupils and flat face make them among the most expressive of pokémon, with several memes based on pictures of flareon.

Wanders off to find a flareon meme to post.. Comes back... Drat, wrong universe, ah well...

Flareon can live for up to ten years in the wild or twenty years in captivity.

Does that time stack with time as an eevee? Like if it evolves at age 5 as an eevee, do they only live 15 years as a result?

They weigh an average of twenty pounds. Adult flareon are typically forty inches long including the tail or thirty inches long without it. They typically stand twelve to fourteen inches tall at the shoulder. Males are slightly larger than females.

Behavior

Flareon are typically found in deserts or in areas with volcanic activity. High temperatures do not bother them at all and their insulating fur can keep them warm on cold desert nights.

I can imagine them making awesome firefighting companions.

Some flareon will stray away from active volcanoes and enter into the surrounding mountains to find food. They do not need warm air temperatures to survive, but they do appreciate them. A feral population in Yellowstone National Park can often be found basking in hot springs with temperatures near the boiling point. In Mauna Wela National Park flareon can often be found venturing into the caves that lead deep into the active volcano or even playing in or around lava flows.

Bleu screens at the idea of playing around lava flows...

I'm shocked Team Magma didn't have more of these things if that's the case...

While flareon will congregate in places of volcanic activity, they are generally solitary creatures outside of mating. Even sightings of mothers with their children are rare as the eevee are ordinarily abandoned shortly after birth (see Breeding).

Flareon are crepuscular hunters. They spend most of their day basking on a rock and their night resting in a burrow, usually stolen from one of their prey. Flareon are ambush hunters that wait near rattata or yungoos burrows near dusk or dawn as the pokémon leave or return. They will then use a quick burst of high temperature flames to kill, wound, or at least stun their prey. If it is still alive the flareon will finish the hunt with a powerful bite. They are surprisingly strong for their size and could overpower a raticate or gumshoos if they had to. Absurdly hot flames are usually enough of a deterrent that their hunts are not interfered with, even when surrounded by their prey’s relatives. They will take the prey to their resting spot and then roast it again until well done, at which point it will be eaten. The second cooking is to boil out most moisture, burn any hair, and make it easier to digest. Flareon’s stomach is rather weak due to the limited amount of acid stored inside. They cannot digest bone. As such flareon are precise eaters that are careful to separate flesh from bone to the best of their abilities.

Most of flareon’s diet is made up of berries, which are also charred before consumption. Berries with a low water content are preferred, although they will occasionally eat a juicier berry raw to obtain water. Flareon will only drink water if it is near the boiling point.

Nice nod towards the O.G. dex entry with them cooking their food. I wonder if they wouldn't make a good companion for a chief at a bbq joint.

Males will often patrol the edges of their territory to scent mark. Females also patrol their territory but do not scent mark. Male and female ranges sometimes overlap, but the two will ignore each other outside of mating.

Husbandry

Flareon do pose some danger to their trainer. Burn risks during petting can be averted with proper protective equipment and providing an agitated specimen its personal space. Unfortunately, flareon are somewhat cuddly. It is not practical to wear a full heatproof suit and sit on something non-flammable until the pokémon has had enough affection. It is strongly recommended that flareon trainers have another pokémon that can withstand prolonged contact with flareon.

The greater danger from flareon is that to their surroundings. A flareon’s normal surface temperature is not enough to seriously harm anything but liquids, sensitive pharmaceuticals, and electronics. When agitated their surface temperature can exceed 500° F. This will cause any paper they are lying on to spontaneously combust. Flareon’s flames can melt iron. They are pets best kept outside in an enclosure of dirt and rock. Only very well-trained flareon can be trusted indoors or around dry vegetation. Thankfully, flareon are perfectly happy with substrate of dirt, sand, or stone as long as there are places to hide or climb in.

A flareon’s diet should consist of two-thirds berries, one-third meat. Some flareon will accept dry frugivore, feline, or canine food pellets. Others will not. If presented with raw food the pokémon will burn it. Make sure that feeding occurs in an area where the flames will not begin an uncontrolled fire or damage anything important.

Flareon often enjoy fruity teas. A few captive specimens are even regular coffee drinkers. Make sure to serve beverages piping hot. Cool liquids will either be rejected or doused in flames to warm them.

Now I'm imagining Flareon baristas... wonder if Poketopia will do something like that?

Wild flareon thrive in dry areas. They will need to be provided shelter or withdrawn into their pokémon when it rains. Any indoor spaces flareon frequent should be dehumidified. The standard temperatures and humidity of Alola are tolerable for them outside of rainstorms. They are not bothered by cold and can be taken into caves or Mauna Lanakila.

Some flareon enjoy hot tubs or other heated water features. Temperatures must be very high to be enjoyable. A few fire-type specialty stores carry custom hot tubs, but these are often very expensive. Filling a bathtub with water heated to the boiling point is a cheaper alternative. Be aware that flareon sometimes shake scalding hot water off of themselves when they want to dry off.

Illness

Flareon’s absurdly high body temperature kills almost all pathogens that would cause illness. As a result flareon do not need to be vaccinated. In fact, vaccination is quite difficult due to high body temperatures and the instant cauterization of puncture wounds. Most standard needles will melt between the blood temperature and the fire trying to seal the injection site. Treating flareon injuries in general requires sedation, usually by hypnosis. An awake and hurt flareon will be running very high body temperatures and might lash out at anything that gets close.

Friction wounds and compound fractures are the most serious injuries for flareon. Severe friction burns can cause large areas of skin to be damaged. The cauterization is best at closing small wounds. If the area is too large then the remaining skin may be weakened to such a degree that it eventually ruptures and causes a rapid depressurization, killing the flareon. Compound fractures require surgery to fix. It is extremely difficult to operate on a flareon without risking serious burns. The automatic cauterization also makes incisions difficult. Most veterinarians refuse to operate on flareon and will recommend the pokémon be put down if a compound fracture would severely reduce its quality of life.

Evolution

Flareon evolve when exposed to a great deal of fire elemental energy. This sometimes occurs during forest fires. It is far more common in areas of volcanic activity. Outside of these natural triggers, evolution requires a fire stone. Fire stones are most commonly found around volcanoes, but they can also sometimes be found in places of intense heat and low humidity or in the aftermath of a major fire. Fire stones are one of the least expensive elemental stones in Alola as they are often produced by Mauna Wela or found in mines around the archipelago. Trainers who want to evolve their eevee into a flareon are encouraged to buy a small fire stone and see if it is enough to trigger evolution upon consumption. If this fails the eevee is probably close to evolution, but not quite over the threshold. Renting a larger fire stone and keeping it near the eevee but out of reach should trigger evolution without depleting the stone.

Battle

Flareon are very difficult to safely make contact with. They have a solid resistance to elemental energies and very hot flames. Despite these strengths, flareon are almost never used in high level battling.

Every one of flareon’s strengths has a corresponding weakness. Their flames are hot, but most flareon cannot maintain them for more than five seconds at a time. They also have trouble projecting the flames more than two meters. Long flamethrowers are usually less intense than short range overheats or flame bursts. Flareon’s jaws and muscles are powerful enough to finish off anything that gets close, but they are too slow to really close the distance with opponents.

Flareon are resistant to elemental energy attacks and if taught wish as an eevee they can heal themselves up as they take damage. They can also instantly heal small scrapes and puncture wounds. But their bones are not particularly durable and their fur and skin are meant for insulation, not defense. Rock- and ground-type attacks can easily overwhelm them from a distance. Water-types, some of the most common ranged attackers, can also comfortably handle flareon. It still retains a small niche as a counter to common fairies like clefable, sylveon, gardevoir, florges, and mega mawile, but otherwise flareon is solidly outclassed by arcanine and the Eurasian ninetales.

Gasp, no not outclassed by Arcanine! Never. Well, it's cuter if nothing else.

On the island challenge flareon do a little better. If they can get close they can often deal seirous damage in a few seconds, and most of the totems are tanks or walls. Speedster totems are rare. Unfortunately, the current lineup of kahunas boasts rock and ground type specialists, two of flareon’s most serious weaknesses.

Acquisition

Europe does not have many active volcanoes, so flareon are uncommon in the region. A few have been sighted in Italy or Greece, but almost none have been seen in northern Europe. Alola is one of the few places on earth with enough volcanic activity to make natural flareon evolutions a common occurrence. Capture is currently prohibited on Akala so researchers at Wela National Park can study the population. The main purpose of the study is to figure out if flareon are still solitary when there are several others in the area. Most flareon live in remote areas where flareon can spread out and food is rare. When both flareon and food are common how will social dynamics change?

Flareon can be purchased or adopted with a Class IV license. Flareon is the most common eeveelution in shelters as trainers whose eevee unexpectedly evolves are often incapable of or unwilling to care for the fire-type. Some importers and pokémon dealers also sell flareon.

At present trainers do not need a higher license to keep a flareon that evolves from an eevee they legally owned. This is to reduce the burden on Alola’s shelters. Trainers who cannot pass the Class III exam should seriously consider whether they have the expertise, resources, and commitment to care for a flareon.

Breeding

Flareon in the wild and captivity are shy about mating. Relatively little is known about their mating rituals as a result. Most flareon pairings observed, even in the wild, tend to be with non-flareon mammalian fire-types. Whether this is because of an aversion to their own species or a lack of conspecifics in the area is unclear. If the flareon is the sire the mother may give birth to a few eevee. Flareon mothers tend to give birth to more of the sire’s species than their own. They also show a preference for raising babies that are born as fire-types. Eevee, with their low heat tolerance, are sent out on their own as soon as they are born. Flareon have very long pregnancies compared to the other eeveelutions to let the fetuses develop enough that nursing will be unnecessary.

Captive breeding of flareon is difficult, even with two flareon that tolerate each other. Pregnancies are long, over eight months, and stress at any point during the pregnancy can result in body temperatures high enough to kill the fetus. If a flareon chooses a mate on its own there is no reason to stop it from breeding. Even the most experienced of breeders rarely attempt to breed a female flareon. Male flareon are occasionally used as a sire for growlithe, litleo, litten, fenniken, or vulpix if elevated body temperatures are desired in the offspring.

Relatives

Consult the Eevee entry for more information

Well, thanks for sharing your thoughts on Flareon, they were a treat!

 

[K_S]

A psychic eevee, let's get started

Espeon
Mutatiovulpes octoplumiter – 4

Overview

Espeon have been prized for a long time. Chinese emperors and Indian nobles often received and gave espeon imported from Europe as gifts. The European traders were careful to only send male espeon so that the export market could remain strong indefinitely. This led to espeon being associated with wealth and nobility in most of Asia. Some of these views inevitably trickled back to Europe.

Huh, I'm surprised that that old trick actually worked. The one gender only send over. I can only imagine how hot the trade for a female eevee would have been back then in those countries...

There are good reasons to value espeon. They are intelligent and loyal companions that prefer to be friends or partners with their trainer. Over time they can learn to telepathically communicate with humans.

Neat as words or sensations?

Espeon also possess a limited form of precognition. Emperors and kings often kept espeon with them while holding court to act as a silent advisor and sense imminent danger. Their care requirements are also much less extreme than some of the other eeveelutions.

A stab against Flareon, my beloved... (and Jolteon,) but still pre-cog and uncorruptability is quite the perk. I'm surprised business moguls don't keep the practice going.

The nobles of old did run into one problem, though – espeon are prone to disobeying or ignoring anyone they don’t respect. As telepaths they can gain insights into who a person truly is. Vile individuals and corrupt rulers have to offer their espeon massive bribes to earn even a moment of obedience

Never mind, I can see why entrepreneurs wouldn't be able to get them to play along...

In China espeon refusing to cooperate with an emperor was seen as a sign that the dynasty had lost their Mandate from Heaven. Some court members even tried to bribe an emperor’s espeon into a public show of disobedience to sow doubts about the emperor’s character. This usually backfired when the espeon took the bribe and then told the emperor what had transpired.

Cunning kit, might as well get all the treats and the perks or double-dealing. Though I wonder how they'd deal with someone not as intelligent as them...

Physiology

Espeon are classified as pure psychic-types.

Espeon have two coats of short, fine lilac fur across their entire body. The shorter coat is made up of a dense layer of ground hairs. The guard hairs are longer, coarser, and sparser than the ground hairs. Espeon’s lips are also a lilac color to make their mouth appear smaller and less threatening. Their build is slender with dainty front paws. The back paws are larger and the hindlegs and rump are heavily muscled. This leads to espeon’s rump being higher than the shoulders while standing up. The hindlegs can be used to launch the pokémon into sprints or up to twelve feet into the air.

These feel more catlike than the other eeveelutions for some reason.

The ears also have tufts of lilac fur in them to keep warm on cooler nights. Espeon’s ears are pointed and very large. They can also be bent at the midway point to muffle sounds or intensify sounds from a given angle. An even stranger facial feature is the ‘gem.’ This gem is not made of actual stone. Instead, it is a hairless, blood-filled bulge of thin skin on the head.

Huh, it's like a weird middle eye sorta mole. Reminds me of the old tales of witch marks...

This gem, the ears, and maybe espeon’s forked tail tips help with one of espeon’s strangest abilities: precognition. Espeon can use wind currents and psychic abilities to predict the movements of opponents. They can know what angles of attack predators and prey will use and maneuver accordingly. Some espeon can even predict the weather.

If its tail is broken or stepped on, does it lose those abilities? I'm imagining a match where an enemy mon is trying might and main to step on that darned espeon tales to turn off the precog/psychics and espeon dancing out of the way, tail waving a taunting dance just out of reach...

Espeon’s precognition is partially reliant on psychic abilities. These abilities are charged by sunlight. Espeon are not good at holding this charge. During the night or when held indoors for too long their psychic powers will begin to fade.

Espeon can reach heights of twenty inches at the rump. They can weigh up to eighteen pounds. Captive specimens can live for up to forty years. Wild specimens rarely live to see fifteen.

Wow, forty years, I can imagine them passing down families like a beloved family guardian...

Behavior

Espeon are ambush predators in the wild. They prefer to prey upon small birds and flying insects. The espeon will hide in tall grass and wait until its precognition tells it that a bird will fly overhead soon. Then it will leap out of the grass to grab the bird in midair, using bites or short-ranged telepathic strikes to cripple the prey and send it back down to earth.

Espeon usually housebreak themselves after a time observing other pokémon or their trainer. Some espeon insist upon using toilets when available, while others prefer a litter box.

While technically diurnal, they spend most of their day resting under the sun. Espeon prefer warmer areas but have occasionally been sighted in colder regions such as Galar. Their fur, even with the ear tufts and guard hairs, is not enough to keep them warm. More temperate regions also have less sunlight in the winter, curtailing their offensive and defensive abilities for half the year. On particularly cold nights espeon have been known to bully something out of its burrow and use it themselves. Otherwise they tend to sleep in shrubs, bushes, or small crevasses.

Or the tame one will march up to its snug as a bug in their sleeping bag trainer, unzips them in with a psychic, and bundles in at the first hint of frost on the ground. Many a trainer had their relationships with their mon tested sorely first frostfall.

There are a few pokémon that prey on espeon. In Alola raticate or rattata will sometimes bother them while they at night. This has led the feral population on Akala to hide in trees. This leaves them somewhat vulnerable to any feral persian in the area. While their partially-air-based precognition can help them sense the approach of dark-types, they still struggle to actually harm any that get close. Their best option is to flee, something made difficult by their general sluggishness at night.

Espeon are one of the only eeveelutions that are solitary in the wild. Immediately after mating the male and female will separate. The mother allows her eevee to stay with her for about a year after birth. Sometimes she will allow a daughter to stay for a little longer, but males and most females will be rejected at this point.

On rare occasion an espeon will be social with a creature of similar or higher intelligence such as oranguru and slowking. They count humans in this company as well. Other espeon are not tolerated, probably to reduce competition. Some espeon even become the ‘pets’ of a particularly wise oranguru. At least one has been captured in a pokéball the oranguru somehow found and learned to use. What either party gets out of this relationship is unclear.

Husbandry

As intelligent pokémon, espeon have much higher enrichment needs than the average canine or feline. Spending time with their trainer is usually their preferred means of enrichment, but this does mean that the espeon will try to monopolize as much of its trainer’s time asp possible. They may resort to mischief when ignored, such as using telekinesis and precognition to subtly adjust objects in such a way that their trainer will cause them to fall over and break later in the day. Espeon’s cry is high-pitched and wavering. Some trainers have compared it to an electric toothbrush or a malfunctioning digital alarm clock. They can also project this sound directly into their trainer’s head, making earplugs useless. Intelligent teammates can help alleviate the espeon’s boredom, making them a good fit on psychic-type specialist’s teams.

The best enrichment item is an elevated perch in direct sunlight. Ideally there should be at least two in a home, one for the morning and one for the evening. A skylight or outdoor access can allow them to bask in the middle of the day as well. Some espeon will give themselves outdoor access by telekinetically picking locks. Mobiles are also excellent toys as they allow the espeon to practice jumping. Some particularly ambitious espeon will try to jump from the floor onto a ceiling fan.

Espeon will also assist their trainer in small chores from time to time. Once they have experience with humans they can even act as a translator between a trainer and their team. Espeon that have grown attached will also look after their trainer, making sure physical needs are met and helping work through psychological problems when they can.

Illness

Espeon require vaccinations for parovirus, rabies, and distemper. Unlike most eeveelutions, espeon are catlike enough that they require vaccinations for feline parovirus and feline distemper instead of the canine counterparts. Some veterinarians will also vaccinate for the canine variants of these diseases as well.

Espeon will happily eat most hard cat or canine food without problems. They prefer soft diets, but these have their own problems. A soft diet will eventually cause the espeon’s jaw to weaken. Supplements will be required. The best is a weekly provision of bones with meat attached to them, presenting an enrichment item, food, and exercise at the same time.

Exhaustion is the most common ailment in captive espeon. Battling too hard without a chance to recharge in the sunlight will wear them out and lead to a total cessation of psychic abilities and deteriorating mental and physical health. Allowing the pokémon to rest in direct sunlight is the best way to prevent exhaustion. During the wet season some professional trainers also employ specialized lamps that mimic sunlight. Habitat balls with artificial sunlight are also preferable to stasis balls for this reason, although espeon tend to resent being held in any type of pokéball for long. Most prefer to accompany their trainer almost everywhere and will become vindicative when trapped anywhere for long.

Evolution

Eevee evolve into espeon when they receive plenty of sunlight or elemental energy connected to the sun, such as so-called sun stones. Frequent exposure to psychic-types may also contribute to the evolution, although this is currently disputed in the literature. While the trigger for evolution is common, the threshold for evolution is very high. It is most common in areas with low rainfall and high temperatures, such as deserts. Tropical environments also seem to have more espeon than umbreon, the other eeveelution with a common trigger.

Espeon seem to have developed thin coats and broad ears to better deal with desert environments. Aside from micro deserts formed by pokémon activity or the erosion of agricultural land there are no deserts in eevee’s native range. Their telepathy and jumping serve them well in a number of habitats and they are less specialized than most eeveelutions. Along with umbreon they may be considered one of the default evolutions of eevee, built to handle areas where no one typing has a strong advantage over the others.

Evolving a captive eevee into an espeon is a somewhat unpredictable process. An eevee that spends most of its life outside in areas away from volcanoes, forests, tundras, power plants, and major bodies of water has a slightly higher chance of evolving into espeon than umbreon in Alola. This advantage is entirely undercut in areas that have historically seen frequent meteorite impacts, such as the Haina Valley and Mauna Hokulani. Trainers interested in having their eevee evolve into espeon should invest in a sun stone for their eevee.

Battle

Espeon are fast, reasonably powerful, and capable of learning a variety of tricks. They see some use among professional trainers but are still a relative rarity. They compete with alakazam and reuniclus for offensive roles and more durable psychic-types like slowbro, mr. mime, and xatu for defensive and utility slots.

The one niche they have for themselves relies on their precognition. Ordinarily espeon precognition can be played around with homing attacks, high speeds, and area of effect moves that are not easily dodged. But espeon’s telepathy and telekinesis let them set traps like no other. When there are spikes or stealth rocks on the field espeon can subtly push them around into places where they will do the most damage to the opponent in the future. An espeon played early might do more damage to the enemy after it has fainted than when it is on the field. Once they are done setting traps they can try to set up screens or clam mind boosts to baton pass to an ally. Alternatively, they can go on the attack with psychic. Espeon are relatively frail, though, so they rarely get a chance to do much more than set up traps in the highest level of play. Field control techniques like defog are also common, potentially negating all of espeon’s work in a minute. Some trainers have tried consulting with espeon before the battle, but espeon often struggle to use their precognition without an imminent threat.

On the island challenge entry hazards are far less common. Players will need to bring their own, having another pokémon set them before espeon moves them into the ideal positions. Relatively few trainers and totems have field clearing techniques, making it hard to instantly undo the pokémon’s work. Many spread moves like earthquake are also banned in most casual arenas, reducing the options available to work around precognition.

Finally, the power level is generally lower in casual matches than in professional ones. This means that espeon might be able to take a hit or two, especially behind screens. Between screens, morning sun, and calm mind espeon can actually find chances to set up and try to sweep opponents. Alternatively, the clam mind boosts can be baton passed to a faster or bulkier team member.

Acquisition

Espeon can occasionally be found in the interior of Akala. Capture is permitted with a Class I license. Espeon populations have been reasonably well-studied elsewhere. The Alolan population is not particularly useful for scientists so capture has been authorized to clear up habitat for the species of interest. Espeon can also be adopted or purchased with a Class I license.

Breeding

A female espeon, if receptive, will flop onto her side when she sees a male. The male may then initiate mating. The act is finished within minutes, at which point the female will drive the male away. Espeon are not at all picky about their mates and have been known to breed in the wild with other espeon, other eeveelutions, canine, vulpine, and feline pokémon, rodent pokémon, and several other species of mammal. They are the easiest to cross-breed in captivity because their aversion to other espeon makes it easier to keep them in close proximity to another species rather than espeon. Sometimes a female espeon will randomly mate with one of her teammates and the trainer will only find out when signs of pregnancy emerge.

Oh, brother, that's a recipe for a paranoid trainer. Or a single gender trainer's team, for peace of mind.

Male espeon will not mate unless a female initiates some sort of mating ritual. This makes them difficult to crossbreed with species where the male displays for the female as both specimens, even if interested in mating, will believe the other is unwilling.

After a two-month pregnancy the female will give birth to a litter of one to six eevee. The mother dotes on her children for the first year, at which point most of her children will be promptly abandoned and she will seek a new partner to mate with.

Relatives

Consult the Eevee entry for more information.

Thanks for sharing this fic/study it made fun read and what if playground, as do all of your entries. It makes them fun. Till next Blitz!