Pokémon The Alola Pokedex

[Persephone]

Eevee
Mutatiovulpes octuplumiter

Overview

Eevee have experienced an astounding rise in popularity over the past quarter century. Previously they were an unpopular species confined to a dwindling range in Europe. Now they are consistently ranked as one of the most desired pokémon in the world. Before eevee ownership was mostly limited to scientists working with radiation or attempting to unravel the secrets of pokémon.

Currently pokémon science is mostly limited to figuring out how things work. There are eighteen (or so) variations of elemental energy and every pokémon links better to some parts of the spectrum than others. Moves are similar patterns of energy use employed by multiple pokémon, even those without the anatomical support for such an attack. Flash evolution occurs in some species but not in others for reasons unknown. Eevee, with their multiple elemental evolutions and high sensitivity to radiation, might be the key to beginning to figure out why things work instead of just how they do. Or they might not. Research so far on the species has not actually answered any of the biggest questions scientists want answered.

In the meantime, eevee became one of the most popular pokémon in the world thanks to a few well-placed coordinators and pop stars as well as a TV series about a bandit in the American Southwest. Some eevee are cute, although their mutations can easily trigger the uncanny valley effect or make them outright disturbing to look at. Its evolutions are at least more genetically stable. As breeders have bred more and more eevee to keep up with demand the species has become a popular alternative starter for even middle-class families. One starter can potentially evolve into one of eight forms down the road, letting the trainer figure out what they want once they have actual experience working with pokémon and a vague idea of what their final team will look like.

Eevee are generally friendly. They are also not nearly as mischievous as most other foxes. Trainers willing to put up with their health issues until the pokémon evolves may find one to be a rewarding companion.

Physiology

Eevee are classified as normal types. Some have a very deep connection to this element and can charge their attacks with neutral elemental energy. Others have no particular affinity. Eevee can also take on the traits of different types as they age, even before evolution. Normal is a sort of a placeholder typing in most cases.

Eevee are vaguely canine quadrupeds. They usually have brown fur, although variants with white, black, silver, red, and even blue coats have been observed. The average eevee has long pointed ears on top of their head. Their eyes are typically large and front-facing. A mane of light-colored fur covers their neck. Their bones are usually lighter than the average dog pokémon but sturdier than the average feline.

It is hard to be more specific when discussing eevee because of their most notable quirk: rapid mutation. The same ability that lets eevee evolve into at least eight different forms also means that their appearance and anatomy are constantly in flux. Traits from nearby pokémon and even humans can be gained or discarded over the course of the pokémon’s life. An eevee raised primarily around furfrou will gain a very fluffy coat, while one that grows up in the presence of reptiles may gain some crude scales. There are many reports of an eevee’s face coming to resemble that of its trainer. The resulting face can be cute, awkward, or disturbing.

Eevee lifespans are variable. Most do not live past two years in the wild or captivity. Those that grow up around extremely long-lived pokémon can live for up to ten years without evolving. In any case, evolution increases the pokémon’s lifespan.

Size and weight are also variable. Most eevee grow to be around twenty-four inches long, including the tail, and weigh around ten pounds. Some are heavier, some are lighter.

Behavior

Eevee are generalists by nature. They can eat insects, small mammals, fruits, and fungi. Their exact diet depends on the local conditions. Most are good at climbing and digging but struggle to swim. Those in coastal areas may sometimes become strong swimmers as they age. In fact, behavior patterns, from sleep cycles to diet, vary considerably by region and parentage.

Eevee spend most of their early life under the protection of their families. Childhood experiences depend on the exact parents. This applies to the evolution (vaporeon raise their young kits in dens only accessible from the water, espeon build nests in trees) but also to the evolution’s mate. In most species crossbreeding is rare in the wild. Eeveelutions crossbreed about as often as they mate with other eeveelutions. Some of the other parent’s natural childrearing practices will be incorporated as well.

Wild eevee are usually shy around humans. This comes as a shock to many trainers as captive eevee are generally quite friendly and will actively seek out affection. They have been selectively bred for these traits. Wild specimens are not so quick to trust and will sometimes be wary of trainers they have known for months or even years, only coming close to accept treats. The explanation is relatively simple: eevee are a prey species and humans are a large, unfamiliar creature. Against most predators eevee’s best defense is to remain hidden. If that fails they will attempt to run, dig, or climb away before resorting to combat. Most wild evolutions are similarly wary, with espeon and sylveon as notable exceptions.

Husbandry

Eevee can eat a wide range of items. Live insects and raw meat can be the staples of a diet. So can fruit and nuts. Ideally there would be some mix of both, with emphasis on the items the teammates primarily eat. Cat and dog kibble can also work, with occasional raw meat thrown into to provide taurine. Any meat will do. Some eevee enjoy maize as a food that is somewhat difficult to eat (and can be wrestled by small eevee).

Captive-born eevee are generally affectionate. They will follow their trainer around and crave cuddling, playing, and brushing. Some are very fond of sitting on their trainer’s upper back or head whenever they bend forward. Wild-born specimens, as mentioned above, are usually content to watch from a safe distance.

Eevee scentmark their territory. They can be trained to only mark outside but they will still need frequent walks or they will begin to pee on everything they find and consider to be theirs. Eevee also naturally have a distinct scent. This can be somewhat reduced with fox-specific grooming products but will probably not go away. Eevee are also fond of making caches of food in secluded places. Sometimes they will get back to this food before it rots. Sometimes they will not. Trainers will need to either watch their pokémon eat or do frequent inspections of their territory.

The ideal outdoor enclosure for eevee has a variety of places to explore. There should be opportunities to climb and dig. Boxes just big enough to fit in are excellent toys and hiding places. Mulch attracts insects, which are excellent prey and/or toys. Plants give shade and interesting scents, as well as drawing insects. Oleander, however, can be toxic and should be avoided. Slides are also an excellent toy. Jury-rigged water slides are twice as interesting.

Eevee are social creatures by default. They should be provided with some sort of companion at most times, either the trainer or a teammate. Wild-caught eevee will prefer playing with other small-to-mid-size mammalian pokémon. Captive-born eevee prefer attention from their trainer.

Eevee have an unfortunate habit of seeking out radiation of all sorts. At its most benign the impulse manifests as sitting in direct sunlight for hours at a time. Sometimes they will also seek close contact with microwaves, which double as box-like hiding places. Take care to ensure your eevee cannot get in. In the worst case scenarios eevee will attempt to run away to uranium mines or nuclear power plants. Trainers near these areas will need to take great care in building their eevee’s enclosure to make it escape-proof.

Illness

Eevee have inherently unstable physiology. This makes them versatile pokémon that can adapt to almost any environment and evolve into at least eight different forms. It also saddles them with less useful adaptations. Eevee are particularly prone to cancer due to their unstable genetics. Even if they do not get cancer the growth of new traits from nearby pokémon can sometimes mesh poorly with existing ones. Regular checkups are required for eevee, even in mutation-resistant specimens. Eevee are drawn to the radiation in some medical equipment and will gladly go to Pokémon Centers to investigate.

In addition to their more unique problems, eevee still suffer from some of the same issues as ordinary mid-size omnivorous mammals. They must receive a rabies vaccine within two weeks of birth or capture and then again every six months after. Eevee’s rapid changes can sometimes render old vaccines ineffective or lead to new ones being required, such as avian flu if the eevee has picked up adaptations from birds on the team. Eevee will also need regular deworming and anti-flea medication as long as they are allowed outside on a regular basis and have not developed a means of naturally combatting parasites.

Evolution

Eevee can evolve into at least eight different evolutions. Covering all of these in one article would be impractical due to the length of the resulting entry and the differences in care requirements between all eight. The requirements for triggering each evolution will be discussed in the articles for each.

Some eevee cannot evolve. A handful of breeders have been selecting for eevee with less mutation potential. In minor cases the eevee will have a deeper connection with normal-type energy and more resistance to adverse mutations, in exchange for higher thresholds for evolutions. A few of the resulting eevee cannot evolve at all but are also highly resistant to all mutations. Cancer has not been observed in so-called static eevee to date, although the small sample size makes it impossible to draw broader conclusions at this point. Static eevee also seem to have some enhanced connection to the eight elements that a normal eevee could specialize in upon evolution.

In Galar eevee can gigantamax. The process increases the size of eevee’s mane and appears to make them more playful, something that is extremely dangerous when the pokémon is upwards of ninety feet tall. Gigantamax is legal in Galar within stadiums built to handle the unique challenges associated with the phenomenon. It is impossible everywhere else.

Battle

Eevee are versatile pokémon, but they are not particularly strong ones. Sometimes they can compare favorably with other pokémon their age, but if they do not evolve they will find themselves quickly falling behind on the second island of the island challenge.

Eevee bred to have a deeper connection to normal energy are the most dangerous in battle as their take downs and even quick attacks can do serious damage. Other eevee must rely on a mix of weaker normal attacks, coverage moves, and options like sand attack to gradually wear an opponent down.

Alternatively, eevee can use their wide utility movepool and decent durability to act as a cleric. The combination of wish and heal bell can keep the team healthy or be used to heal up the eevee itself. Wish can be difficult to teach, but a teammate that knows the move can greatly accelerate the process.

Finally, eevee have access to a unique Z-move in Alola, Extreme Evoboost. When used the Z-move charges the eevee with energy from across the spectrum, dramatically increasing its defenses, offenses, and attack. This boost can also be baton passed to another pokémon. At least one trainer has combined the Z-move, a static eevee, baton pass, and a sweeper to good effect. The first problem with this strategy is that it requires using an eevee. Even static eevee lag well behind most adult pokémon. Obtaining the necessary Eevium-Z is also difficult as only a few are in existence. The Tapu and Lunala can apparently produce more by converting more common Normalium-Z crystals, but they are difficult to contact and not prone to answering small requests.

Acquisition

Eevee can be purchased from most high-end pet stores. A few breeders on Akala also regularly produce litters. A few escapes from these ranches, combined with releases of undesired evolutions, has allowed for a small but stable feral population to establish itself in central and northwestern Akala. Capture is currently limited to one per trainer. The rule is not based on environmental protection as eevee are invasive. Rather, it is to keep the wild population as a tourist attraction. The Commonwealth government has openly discussed releasing eevee on Akala to bolster the population’s numbers.

Eevee can be purchased, adopted, or captured with a Class I license.

Breeding

Every evolution creates and raises its children in a different way. These topics will be discussed further in the articles on the individual evolutions. Instead, a brief overview of the care of orphaned newborns will be given here.

Sometimes eevee are orphaned, rejected, or otherwise taken from their mother before the point of self-sufficiency. They can still survive with human intervention. The first two weeks before the eevee opens its eyes are critical. A warm, secluded place must be provided. A popular setup is a box lined in blankets with a weak artificial heater underneath. Other pokémon or at least plush replicas should be provided for the eevee to cuddle. Eevee will accept milk from more or less any mammal. Miltank milk is the cheapest and contains all necessary nutrients, although the eevee might overindulge and put on too much weight if allowed. In any case the baby fat will probably be lost fairly quickly after the pokémon begins to exercise.

Eevee are also very accepting of other pokémon as surrogate mothers. If they are inserted into a litter of other newborn pokémon and the surrogate mother agrees to raise the eevee it will grow up healthy, although its physiology and behavior will be tweaked to match its surrogate mother and siblings. Bottle-fed eevee will need to be regularly cuddled by a human or adult pokémon to learn the scent of its ‘mother.’

Relatives

Eevee DNA is extremely difficult to analyze. More static specimens appear to be related to ninetales and thievul. Some eevee’s DNA can become closer to cats, rabbits, or even fish. Some scientists argue that their closest relatives are not foxes but ditto.

A somewhat more interesting question is where eevee came from and why their relationship to elemental energy is so strange. Most early writings from Europe were lost in the Bronze Age Collapse, the fall of the Imperium, or the subsequent rise of the Church of Life. What we do know is that 3,000 years ago the population of Kalos dramatically declined and a monumental graveyard was constructed south of Cromlac’h. There are different accounts of the event: it may have been a plague, the intervention of Yveltal or Xerneas, or even an ancient weapon of mass destruction.

Some scholars have argued in favor of the last point citing eevee as evidence. They do not appear in any early cave drawings or the surviving records of the ancient world. Eevee and its evolutions also do not appear in the fossil record until approximately 3,000 years ago. Wild eevee also appeared to undergo a dramatic population increase following the invention of atomic weapons and power plants. Perhaps they emerged following a nuclear blast near Cromlac’h.

This theory is undercut in a variety of ways, however. The economic and industrial support network needed to mine the necessary ore and construct the bomb simply did not exist before the Industrial Revolution. Bronze Age Kalos did not have firearms, so making the jump to atomic weaponry seems unlikely. It is also quite possible that the timing of eevee’s rise and the population decline in Kalos is simply a coincidence.

 

[Persephone]

Vaporeon
Mutatiovulpes octuplumiter – 1

Overview

Vaporeon have always been somewhat uncommon in the wild. They only naturally evolve near areas of high-water elemental energy. These include some shores with an abundance of water-types and particularly pristine lakes and rivers. As these pristine places became more and more uncommon in the age of industrialization, vaporeon numbers rapidly declined. Now wild vaporeon only occur in a dozen or so European parks. However, most of these parks are often in the northern reaches of the continent or near high-altitude glacial meltwaters, meaning that the eevee there are just as likely to evolve into glaceon as vaporeon. Only in Czyste Jeziora National Park in Poland are vaporeon the most abundant eeveelution.

Vaporeon are intelligent, playful, and useful in battle. They make for excellent companions for any trainer able to satisfy their needs for pure water and whole fish.

Physiology

Vaporeon are classified as pure water-types.

All of eevee’s evolutions have strange physiology. Vaporeon’s is perhaps the strangest. Their body type is similar to a typical canine or feline, but they also have prominent gills and fins, including a broad fluke at the end of their tail. One fin extends from either side of the face. These cheek fins help pump water over the gills. They also contain distinct markings unique to each individual. Specimens will extend their cheek fins when encountering another vaporeon. A dorsal fin is located on top of the head. It is a hard, bony fin that makes it difficult for opponents to bite down on the head. Behind the head fins is a set of gills. Behind these is a white frill with more identifying markings. It can be extended to make the pokémon appear larger than it is. Scientists have speculated it may also help with gill function. A long dorsal fin extends down the length of the body. It is supported by series of spines.

Vaporeon also have a handful of adaptations for life on land. Their legs are strong enough to allow them to dig or climb. Climbing is assisted with claws at the end of each digit. The feet are also webbed to assist in swimming. More importantly, vaporeon have lungs in addition to their gills. They can breathe freely on land or in the water.

The strangest adaptation that vaporeon possess is hinted at by their pale blue coloration. Vaporeon can entirely dissolve into water for short periods of time. This makes them intangible to predators and invisible to prey. It also leaves them very vulnerable to current-based attacks or poisoning. Upon reforming in polluted or poisoned water vaporeon will ingest the toxins directly into their body. This limits vaporeon’s range to very pristine bodies of water such as springs, glacial meltwater, and continuously protected streams or lakes running from these sources. In the past vaporeon could also be found around coastlines, but seawater is now too polluted for them everywhere except Antarctica and portions of coastal Greenland. These places are too cold to make for ideal vaporeon habitats.

Vaporeon typically grow to be five feet long, including the tail, and twenty inches tall at the withers. One weighed in at sixty pounds, but thirty to forty is more typical. Wild vaporeon typically live for about fifteen years, but captive specimens routinely live to be more than thirty.

Behavior

Early studies reported that vaporeon had ‘alpha pairs’ who were the only ones allowed to breed. This is technically true. Wild vaporeon live in pairs with a few newly evolved children and any unevolved eevee. The parents are dominant over their children and typically kick out any vaporeon that become too rebellious. Offspring that evolve into something other than a vaporeon are immediately exiled.

Vaporeon spend most of their time in the water. About half of their day is spent hunting for fish pokémon such as magikarp, feebas, or basculin. In waters pure enough to allow it, ambush tactics employing their liquid state are preferred. Otherwise they often wait at the edge of the water and lunge in after any prey that come too close to the edge. Sometimes vaporeon will work together to herd larger prey towards the waters edge where they can be driven onto land and killed.

At night vaporeon rest in their burrows, which can be complex systems with multiple chambers and entrances on land and in the water. One vaporeon or eevee will stay awake as a sentry and alert the rest of the flow to anything trying to enter the burrow. Smaller intruders can be scared off or killed for food, depending on their power. Larger predators entering from the water will be fled from. Those entering from land will be fled from if there are no eevee present. If there are eevee present one vaporeon will stall for time while the eevee cling onto the other vaporeon as they escape. Eevee can hold their breath for long enough to survive a quick swim out of the burrow and to relative safety.

Vaporeon do not contend with many amphibious predators capable of posing a threat to them. Quagsire can swim in the water or walk on land and they are competent burrowers. They are also far too slow to outpace vaporeon either on land or in the water.

When they are not hunting or sleeping, vaporeon play. If a vaporeon is alone it will amuse itself by harassing other species or exploring the environment. Vaporeon living in pairs or family groups will engage in games of chase, hiding, wrestling, climbing, or exploring new “toys” they come across. Vaporeon pairs will often sleep in heaps with each other and their offspring. They are also highly vocal and have over twenty types of recorded vocalizations, variations on which can produce complex expressions akin to language.

Vaporeon keep latrines near their dens. They prefer to defecate on land rather than in the water, although nursing individuals have been seen doing so. Visiting vaporeon and other eeveelutions will begin their visit by inspecting the latrine.

Husbandry

Vaporeon husbandry is relatively simple with two notable exceptions: their needs for fish and clean water. Wild vaporeon almost exclusively eat fish. Captive specimens will sometimes take a berry as a treat, but fish should compose the bulk of their diet. This can be small non-pokémon fish or fresh or frozen fish pokémon. They will usually reject highly processed fish. If the fish is frozen before consumption, then a supplement of Vitamin B1 and Vitamin E will be required. Stationary trainers can meet this need relatively easily. Traveling trainers will need to either rely on wild-caught fish, which is sometimes illegal and often inadvisable due to mercury or other toxins in the area or haul their own fish for long distances without it beginning to rot. Ice-type powered freezers are more or less required for this. Because they are frequently handling fish without frequent chances to shower, traveling vaporeon trainers will also begin to smell like fish on long journeys.

Vaporeon also require frequent access to bodies of pure water. They can and will drink water offered to them, but at some point they will still need to submerge for their physical and psychological health. These water bodies must be free from any significant concentration of toxins, including chlorine. There are maps of Alola pointing out springs and other areas of high-quality water. Some of these are public. Others will require the permission of the landowner. Vaporeon trainers may be best off leaving their pokémon in stasis as much as possible on drier trails. Spending all of their time in an ultra ball can double the time a vaporeon can go between trips to fresh water.

Most small Pokémon Centers and larger trail stops will accommodate requests for a small tub of filtered water for a vaporeon to swim in. Larger pokémon centers sometimes have pools of very high-quality water for particularly sensitive pokémon.

Vaporeon are diurnal, so they thankfully will not be bothering their trainer at night. Wild vaporeon sleep in heaps inside their burrows. Captive specimens will often crawl under sheets or blankets to cuddle with their trainer. Sometimes they will attempt to dig into the mattress. Unlike most canine or feline pokémon, spraying vaporeon with water to discourage a behavior is less than useless. Thankfully they are quite intelligent and obedient and a few reprimands will drive the point home.

It is also possible to have a rough understanding of vaporeon’s language without a translator. They are very vocal and some of their sounds can be identified. Growls mean a vaporeon is about to attack while screams are for play fights or driving away intruders. Whistles and barks typically indicate curiosity about something. Humming is a sign of affection.

Vaporeon are natural explorers in the wild and captivity. They will approach anything they do not reasonably believe to be a threat and attempt to sniff, touch, or watch it. Wild specimens have been observed forming complex games from simple objects, some resembling a sport. They are also hoarders who will take intriguing objects into their burrow for further study.

Vaporeon are very playful and will frequently want to play with their trainer or teammates. A trainer without a great deal of free time should form a team of similarly intelligent and energetic pokémon so they can at least play with each other. Vaporeon in general do not do well on small teams. Trainers who have their own favorite games can try to teach them to their vaporeon. The species can figure out most sports and learn to play them. Some have even been taught to play board or video games. At least one minigolf course has a vaporeon as a mascot; she occasionally hops out of water features to play alongside the visitors. She holds a stick in her mouth to use as her club and is apparently quite proficient at the game.

Vapoeon are quite good with children. They have similar energy levels and intelligence, and it is very hard for children to actually hurt the pokémon.

Most vaporeon can easily learn how to use toilets or latrines. They are happier urinating and defecating in the same place as their trainer than in a litter box. Sometimes they will even help other teammates use the toilet, although initial results may vary by anatomy and intelligence.

Vaporeon will dig their own burrows if they stay in one place for more than a few days. They should be allowed to do so if possible. If it is not then a series of tubes, boxes, and blankets can form a suitable faux burrow. Pokémon Center staff are usually willing to loan out equipment to form these burrows, if only to reduce damage to the landscaping around the building.

Illness

Vaporeon will need to be vaccinated for canine distemper, parovirus, and rabies within thirty days of capture.

The most common health problem for captive vaporeon is obesity. They are greedy eaters and will beg or steal to get more fish. A vaporeon should be limited to 10% of its weight in food on a normal day, with up to 18% being allowed following difficult battles that inflict injury.

Vaporeon can heal most injuries by fading into the water and reforming. This instantly heals most minor cuts and abrasions and removes any parasites. More serious wounds will require an increase in food, lots of time in pure water, and veterinary supervision to heal. But almost all injuries they survive will be recovered from without any scarring or lasting health consequences.

Evolution

Eevee evolve into vaporeon around strong sources of water elemental energy. Particularly pure lakes, especially those home to springs or powerful water-types such as suicune, are full of this energy. Other bodies of water, particularly the ocean, also have water energy. The vaporeon that evolve in these areas may not survive long due to pollution, though.

The most reliable way to evolve an eevee into vaporeon is to purchase a water stone and let the eevee absorb the energy within it. This will usually trigger a flash evolution into vaporeon, although very small stones may not be enough to trigger the process. Spending lots of time in Brooklet Hill Commonwealth Park can also result in an eevee evolving into vaporeon. Some older eevee will also evolve after a short visit to the park.

Battle

Vaporeon can summon rainstorms by vibrating the fins on their head. The rain does not immediately begin, unlike storms summoned by politoed or pelipper. Rather, the storm will gradually grow over the course of fifteen to twenty minutes. Thankfully, vaporeon are quite capable of stalling for that long. Their durability and utility makes them popular on more defensive rain teams.

Even without access to water, vaporeon heal quickly and take most elemental hits well. They can use aqua ring and rest to heal themselves throughout the battle. Passive damage inflicted by whirlpool and scald can help them stall out most opponents. Haze can negate the boosts of opponents that try to set up on them. Several pokémon, especially fire-types, are hard walled by vaporeon even outside of the water. With access to the water vaporeon can heal minor wounds immediately and make itself very difficult to hit by fading into the water. This leaves them particularly vulnerable to electrical, poison, and water attacks, but allows them to completely negate some blows.

Vaporeon can also support their team by setting up with moves like acid armor, aqua ring, and work up before using baton pass to transfer the boosts to a teammate. But their main utility lies in their ability to keep the team healthy with moves such as heal bell and wish. A team with a vaporeon is resistant to status effects and can heal up any team member that is weakened but not knocked out. This gives them a niche over even more durable water-types such as milotic and slowbro. They occasionally see use at even the highest levels of competitive play, usually on stall, rain, or baton pass teams.

On the island challenge vaporeon’s attacks still pack enough of a punch to be effective. Vaporeon can function as a bulky attacker with strong moves like hydro pump, ice beam, and shadow ball. Alternatively, they can use their standard competitive tactics of wearing down opponents with slow acting moves like scald, toxic, and whirlpool. Vaporeon can also help restore opponents who cannot quickly heal themselves, both in battle and after it is offer.

Acquisition

A few wild vaporeon have been seen in Brooklet Hill Commonwealth Park. Whether these were released by trainers who did not want a vaporeon or evolved from wild eevee is unclear. In any event capture has been prohibited for the time being in hopes of observing a rare wild vaporeon population establish itself. It is also illegal to capture any eevee that may be born to a wild vaporeon until such time as they have been kicked out of the family unit.

Trainers who want a vaporeon of their own should either evolve it from an eevee or look to shelters in the Brooklet Hill area where vaporeon are sometimes dropped off following an unwanted evolution. Some breeders and pokémon stores will also sell vaporeon from time to time. Vaporeon require a Class II license to adopt or purchase.

Breeding

It is very difficult to breed vaporeon in captivity or to observe reproduction and childrearing in wild specimens. Vaporeon are ordinarily curious and friendly towards humans. Pregnant or nursing vaporeon suddenly become very afraid of human contact. Loud noises or unfamiliar humans can cause pregnant specimens to miscarry or nursing mothers to abandon their children. Captive breeding can only occur if the mother is given a quiet, secluded area and contact with all humans is minimized until the eevee are weaned. The stress will remain to a lesser degree as long as there are eevee living in the family unit. The loss of an eevee can send the parents into a spiral of depression that ends in them losing or abandoning their territory.

In any case, it is easiest to obtain eevee by breeding another evolution. Mated females will be stressed around humans from the time their pregnancy begins to the time their last eevee evolves or turns two. It is strongly recommended to spay or neuter vaporeon that are intended to be long-time companions.

Like most of eevee’s evolutions, vaporeon will crossbreed with a wide variety of species. They strongly prefer vaporeon or other eeveelutions, but will also mate with most canines, felines, and pinnipeds. They have even been observed mating and producing viable offspring with some fish or serpentine pokémon. Any children born to a female vaporeon will be fairly standard eevee, regardless of what species the father was. Children sired by a male vaporeon may still bee eevee if the mate is a canine or feline. More distantly related mates will result in offspring entirely of the female’s species.

Relatives

Consult the Eevee entry for more information.

 

[Persephone]

Jolteon
Mutatiovulpes octuplumiter - 2

Overview

In the pre-industrial era jolteon were one of the rarest of the eeveelutions, evolving only around areas of natural electric energy. These most often occurred in places with a high concentration of electric-types, such as caves with metals such as manganese and copper. Eevee are not naturally suited to caves of any kind, so only eevee that happened to live above these caves or around the mouth would evolve into jolteon. The rise of power stations and lines, as well as appliances entering into every home, made jolteon one of the most common eeveelutions, rivaled only by espeon and umbreon.

Jolteon are well-suited for trainers in a number of ways. They are one of the only eeveelutions that is almost entirely herbivorous. Unlike most electric-types they do not need to consume electricity on a regular basis, allowing trainers to plot out journeys without factoring in proximity to the power grid. They are also generalists that can be comfortable in all but the hottest and coldest of environments. Jolteon do not actively damage electronics, unlike magnezone or hodad, making them reasonably safe in a home environment.

There are a few drawbacks to jolteon, however. They can be very high energy during storms, wanting to race around the largest area possible and play. It is unsafe for their trainer to come outside to play with them during an electrical storm as they will die if hit by lightning. Jolteon do not see lightning as something to fear and will become irritated with their trainer’s apparent irrationality or cowardice. In general they are prone to mood swings and can go from furious or heartbroken to playful in the span of a minute. They are known for being dramatic and needing a great deal of attention, either from their trainer or mate.

Trainers who want an electric-type but are unwilling to give up electronic devices are well served by jolteon. They should simply be aware that jolteon may not actually give them the time to use those devices.

Physiology

Jolteon are classified as pure electric-types.

Jolteon are quadrupeds with a typical canine body shape. Their ears are long and quite sensitive. They are usually tucked back but can be raised upright when something has caught the pokémon’s attention. Most of jolteon’s fur is yellow, except for a white main around the neck. Many of these hairs are hollow and contain a sharp tip. Jolteon can use static electricity to raise up these quills and become very difficult to attack without being harmed. Most of the time the quills rest against the body. Jolteon’s tail is very short and often difficult to see as it is surrounded by a tuft of fur.

Two of jolteon’s most important adaptations are their lungs and legs. Jolteon can rapidly accelerate to speeds of over eighty miles an hour. They cannot maintain these speeds for more than two to three minutes because their lungs are not particularly well adapted for long distance running. They lungs contain unique cells that produce electricity with every breath. Even while at rest jolteon’s exhales have a crackling sound. After running a great deal of energy will be built up in the lungs, making it difficult to breathe unless the electricity is vented out as an extremely powerful lightning bolt. Anything still pursuing will almost certainly be incapacitated by the attack. The jolteon can resume running about ten seconds after the discharge of electricity in the lungs.

Jolteon have the longest gut of any eeveelution. This is necessary to get enough energy to run from their herbivorous diet. Leafeon, the only other herbivorous eeveelution, can photosynthesize for food and only rarely needs to eat plant matter.

Jolteon typically grow to be thirty-five to forty inches long. Typical specimens weigh less than thirty pounds, although one obese jolteon was recorded as weighing fifty-two. Wild lifespans are around fifteen years. Captive specimens usually live for around twenty-five years.

Behavior

Jolteon live in family groups (charges) consisting of a mated pair and all offspring that wish to remain in the group. Eevee can leave once a new litter is born, but many choose to remain for several years afterwards. Foraging is generally non-cooperative outside of demonstrating techniques to the youngest litter. They are primarily nocturnal but have often been observed foraging and playing during the day, usually during storms. Jolteon usually sleep in a heap on the surface with one member of the charge staying awake to watch out for threats.

Jolteon dig relatively short burrows to rest in. When threatened they will often dive into the burrow and raise their quills to deter would-be predators. If cornered without sufficient charge they can run backwards at, quills raised, to run the aggressor through. Jolteon can also launch the quills, but this requires regrowing them in the future. As such the backwards charge is preferred against all but the most dangerous of opponents. Few things prey on jolteon as a result, finding the risk of electrocution or impalement to be too much trouble.

Unlike most canines, jolteon are primarily herbivorous. They spend most of their nights digging for roots and tubers or foraging for fruit. Near human settlements they will happily eat any crops they come across, earning the ire of local farmers. Jolteon have also been known to use their claws and teeth to strip off bark, letting them eat the softer flesh of the tree.

Jolteon have been known to gnaw at any bones they find and even use them as toys or tools. One jolteon was observed brandishing a rib as a crude weapon. Charges can also scare off birds of prey from a kill site, threatening to electrocute them unless they leave the carcass behind. Jolteon take these opportunities to eat meat, although they never actively hunt. Too much meat in the diet can lead to digestive problems and obesity.

Behavior

A captive jolteon’s diet should consist of a combination of pre-made herbivore and leaf-eater mixes, whole maize, fresh greens and berries. More ambitious trainers can attempt to craft a nutritionally balanced diet without commercial mixes. It is recommended that trainers consult with a veterinarian or pokémon nutritionist before going down this route. Carnivores are relatively simple to feed without relying on commercial pellets, but herbivores require a mix of different nutrients. A bone with some meat on it can be provided as a rare reward but should not be a regular part of the diet.

Jolteon should almost always have access to at least one water bowl. Jolteon like water and will often flip over their bowl and wallow in the newly created mud if there is not a water feature nearby to swim or bathe in. Pokémon Center pools are unsuitable for this purpose as the jolteon might electrocute the other pokémon in the pool. Bathtubs work but the pokémon may end up making a mess of the area. Never get into the water with a jolteon. If the jolteon cannot wash itself make sure to wear a rubber protective suit when bathing the pokémon.

Jolteon appreciate wide open spaces and places to burrow. If it is not suitable to burrow anywhere a dark, secluded place should be provided. A jolteon confined to the inside of a room or building may cause property damage when agitated. Bored jolteon have also been known to steadily pick at something in their surroundings until it eventually breaks.

The main problem with raising jolteon is their mood swings. Jolteon can go from heartbroken to furious and back within seconds and will often demand attention when they are feeling emotional. These shifts occur most often when they are alert. Jolteon are nocturnal. This means that they will bother their trainer in the middle of the night with a pressing emotional concern that may disappear within minutes, sometimes replaced by a different but equally powerful emotion. Having a mate or at least a nocturnal teammate is crucial if the trainer wants to sleep peacefully at night. Otherwise it might be prudent to shift to a reversed sleep schedule of activity at night and rest during the day.

Jolteon prefer to sleep against their trainer. Be very careful when sharing a space with a sleeping jolteon. Sometimes their quills will perk up due to a nightmare or they will accidentally release a small shock. Jolteon can sleep in a stasis ball but become very lonely in habitat balls. This is a problem that can also be solved by giving the jolteon someone else to cuddle. Luxray and manectric are particularly well-suited for this role.

Jolteon can be safely pet when their quills are not raised. Always pet from the head to the tail. Gloves are recommended but not required.

Illness

Jolteon suffer from many of the same problems as the other eeveelutions, including rabies and canine parovirus. They will need to be vaccinated against both, as well as tetanus.

The most unique health problem jolteon suffer from is ingrown quills. Just like humans sometimes get ingrown hairs, jolteon’s quills will sometimes not properly grow out and become entirely or partially lodged underneath the skin. The difficulty in removing the quill depends on the extent to which it is ingrown. Entirely ingrown quills are best handled by a veterinarian under anesthetic.

Putting a jolteon to sleep is also somewhat complicated. Their quills are longer than most needles, making injection a risky endeavor. Hypnosis and sleep powder are the preferred methods instead. Not every Pokémon Center will have a pokémon available to use these techniques. Thankfully ingrown quills do not usually cause the jolteon distress and removal can wait until a suitable pokémon arrives.

Evolution

Eevee are most likely to evolve into jolteon when they grow up in urban environments or around power plants. Some areas also carry a natural charge, including Vast Poni Canyon. Trainers who have money and do not wish to leave the evolution to chance can use a thunder stone to induce evolution. The stone can be kept away from the eevee to gradually cause evolution, at which point it can be resold. This method still carries some risk of another evolution occurring in the meantime. The only surefire way to get a jolteon is to give an eevee a thunder stone and let it be used up.

Battle

Electric-types are great on the competitive circuits. Fliers hard counter many melee attackers, so melee heavy teams want to stock up on electric types, as wing paralysis can easily bring a bird back down to earth. Jolteon is fast and reasonably strong. It could have a niche. But in high level play, where trainers can afford the absolute best pokémon at their role, jolteon is almost never seen. Vikavolt, hodad, magnezone, rotom, and other airborne electric-types can glide above seismic waves, strike down birds, and put distance between themselves and the strong physical attackers that could threaten them.

Jolteon is relatively frail and unable to fly. It is very vulnerable to seismic moves that can trip it up and dampen electric elemental energy. Aside from its quills jolteon have fairly minimal defenses. Even their bones are lighter than the other eeveelutions to allow for faster running speeds. Like most eeveelutions, jolteon have fantastic power in their specialized element but relatively few tricks outside of it. Ground types can completely wall it and ranged attackers can usually take it down with a few hits, striking from a distance where the quills don’t matter.

On the island challenge, resources and ease of care and capture matter a lot more than they do to professionals. Hodad and magnezone’s device breaking magnetic fields disqualifies them for many trainers. Vikavolt are difficult to earn the respect of. Jolteon, emotional issues aside, are fairly low maintenance. Ground-types are rare in Alola and most trainers do not have one, making the lack of coverage a non-factor in most matches. Jolteon’s speed lets them outpace most opponents and until the end of the challenge powerful and accurate ranged attacks are rare. Jolteon do two things, run away and throw lightning bolts, but they do them well.

Acquisition

A few wild jolteon have been observed in Alola, mostly near Heahea City. These may have been strays. There is no evidence a this point of a wild eevee evolving into Jolteon in Alola, largely due to the rural area they currently call home.

Jolteon can be adopted or purchased with a Class III license. Capture is currently prohibited to allow the DNR a chance to study whatever wild populations crop up.

Breeding

Jolteon have no external sex differences. Both sex organs are stored inside the body with the penis only protruding during the copulation. It is possible to manipulate the groin to determine the sex of a jolteon, but this is best done while the pokémon is heavily sedated.

Mating rituals are initiated by the male. He will approach a prospective mate while making high-pitched squeaking sounds, only to abruptly retreat when he gets close. This will continue until the female either walks away, displaying a lack of interest, or charges the male when he tries to retreat, displaying acceptance. The two will then make an expanded burrow network before copulation. Pregnancy lasts approximately two months, at which point the female will give birth to one to three eevee. The mother will rarely let the eevee leave her side until they are six months old and never let them out of sight until they evolve or a new litter is conceived. New litters are born about once a year, although if a litter is lost to stillbirth, disease, or predation a new one will be conceived almost immediately.

Relatives

Consult the Eevee entry for more information.

 

[Persephone]

Flareon
Mutatiovulpes octoplumiter – 3

Overview

Flareon have among the highest average body temperatures of any mammal as well as the highest recorded body temperature. Their flames are hot enough to melt iron, although they cannot project them very far or maintain them for long. They are best suited for fire-type specialists who know how to handle high-temperature pokémon.

Still, flareon have a low enough skin and fur temperature that it is safe to pet a relaxed flareon. Trainers well-versed in the care of similar species can safely handle one with a small investment in protective equipment. In Alola they compete for a team slot with torracat, houndoom and arcanine, similar pokémon with much less risk of burning their trainer on accident. Flareon has the highest care difficulty of any eeveelution, but some trainers find them cute and personable enough to make the experience more than worth it.

Physiology

Flareon are classified as pure fire-types.

By far the most interesting feature of flareon is their incredibly high body temperatures. Their resting internal temperature is approximately 280° F, above the boiling point of water. Flareon blood has dissolved compounds that raise the boiling point to above this threshold. When agitated or threatened their body temperature can spike to well over 1000° for short periods of time. That temperature is more than enough to boil even flareon blood. To survive these temperatures flareon must keep their body highly pressurized. Wounds are instantly cauterized to prevent pressure from being released. Breathing and waste release are done by highly specialized organs designed to retain internal temperatures and pressures.

Flareon’s skin and fur are secondary lines of defense. Flareon have black skin hidden by their thick red and orange fur. Their fur is an extremely effective fire retardant. It is also very thick with up to 50,000 hair follicles per square inch. The fur is thickest and has the lightest coloration around the neck. The density and length of the fur makes it a powerful insulator that keeps body heat trapped within, reducing the amount of energy needed to maintain high body temperatures. The skin is very thick and contains no blood vessels near the surface. As mentioned above any wounds deep enough to bleed are instantly cauterized. This is done through a process similar to the move flare blitz, where very hot fire covers the exterior of the body. The process is automatic and near instantaneous. It may happen before the pokémon even realizes it has been wounded.

Flareon look like fairly typical feline or vulpine Pokémon, aside from their very fluffy mane, tail, and upper head. Their ears are long and pointed like most of the eeveelutions, granting them a keen sense of hearing. Very little blood flows through the external ear to minimize the surface area where hot blood is near relatively cool air. The cells of the ear are designed to efficiently pass water between them, rather than relying on blood vessels to deliver it.

A final difference from most canines or felines is that flareon’s face is quite flat. Their eyes are large and expressive, with rounded pupils rather than the slitted ones of the other eeveelutions. The rounded pupils and flat face make them among the most expressive of pokémon, with several memes based on pictures of flareon.

Flareon can live for up to ten years in the wild or twenty years in captivity. They weigh an average of twenty pounds. Adult flareon are typically forty inches long including the tail or thirty inches long without it. They typically stand twelve to fourteen inches tall at the shoulder. Males are slightly larger than females.

Behavior

Flareon are typically found in deserts or in areas with volcanic activity. High temperatures do not bother them at all and their insulating fur can keep them warm on cold desert nights. Some flareon will stray away from active volcanoes and enter into the surrounding mountains to find food. They do not need warm air temperatures to survive, but they do appreciate them. A feral population in Yellowstone National Park can often be found basking in hot springs with temperatures near the boiling point. In Mauna Wela National Park flareon can often be found venturing into the caves that lead deep into the active volcano or even playing in or around lava flows.

While flareon will congregate in places of volcanic activity, they are generally solitary creatures outside of mating. Even sightings of mothers with their children are rare as the eevee are ordinarily abandoned shortly after birth (see Breeding).

Flareon are crepuscular hunters. They spend most of their day basking on a rock and their night resting in a burrow, usually stolen from one of their prey. Flareon are ambush hunters that wait near rattata or yungoos burrows near dusk or dawn as the pokémon leave or return. They will then use a quick burst of high temperature flames to kill, wound, or at least stun their prey. If it is still alive the flareon will finish the hunt with a powerful bite. They are surprisingly strong for their size and could overpower a raticate or gumshoos if they had to. Absurdly hot flames are usually enough of a deterrent that their hunts are not interfered with, even when surrounded by their prey’s relatives. They will take the prey to their resting spot and then roast it again until well done, at which point it will be eaten. The second cooking is to boil out most moisture, burn any hair, and make it easier to digest. Flareon’s stomach is rather weak due to the limited amount of acid stored inside. They cannot digest bone. As such flareon are precise eaters that are careful to separate flesh from bone to the best of their abilities.

Most of flareon’s diet is made up of berries, which are also charred before consumption. Berries with a low water content are preferred, although they will occasionally eat a juicier berry raw to obtain water. Flareon will only drink water if it is near the boiling point.

Males will often patrol the edges of their territory to scent mark. Females also patrol their territory but do not scent mark. Male and female ranges sometimes overlap, but the two will ignore each other outside of mating.

Husbandry

Flareon do pose some danger to their trainer. Burn risks during petting can be averted with proper protective equipment and providing an agitated specimen its personal space. Unfortunately, flareon are somewhat cuddly. It is not practical to wear a full heatproof suit and sit on something non-flammable until the pokémon has had enough affection. It is strongly recommended that flareon trainers have another pokémon that can withstand prolonged contact with flareon.

The greater danger from flareon is that to their surroundings. A flareon’s normal surface temperature is not enough to seriously harm anything but liquids, sensitive pharmaceuticals, and electronics. When agitated their surface temperature can exceed 500° F. This will cause any paper they are lying on to spontaneously combust. Flareon’s flames can melt iron. They are pets best kept outside in an enclosure of dirt and rock. Only very well-trained flareon can be trusted indoors or around dry vegetation. Thankfully, flareon are perfectly happy with substrate of dirt, sand, or stone as long as there are places to hide or climb in.

A flareon’s diet should consist of two-thirds berries, one-third meat. Some flareon will accept dry frugivore, feline, or canine food pellets. Others will not. If presented with raw food the pokémon will burn it. Make sure that feeding occurs in an area where the flames will not begin an uncontrolled fire or damage anything important.

Flareon often enjoy fruity teas. A few captive specimens are even regular coffee drinkers. Make sure to serve beverages piping hot. Cool liquids will either be rejected or doused in flames to warm them.

Wild flareon thrive in dry areas. They will need to be provided shelter or withdrawn into their pokémon when it rains. Any indoor spaces flareon frequent should be dehumidified. The standard temperatures and humidity of Alola are tolerable for them outside of rainstorms. They are not bothered by cold and can be taken into caves or Mauna Lanakila.

Some flareon enjoy hot tubs or other heated water features. Temperatures must be very high to be enjoyable. A few fire-type specialty stores carry custom hot tubs, but these are often very expensive. Filling a bathtub with water heated to the boiling point is a cheaper alternative. Be aware that flareon sometimes shake scalding hot water off of themselves when they want to dry off.

Illness

Flareon’s absurdly high body temperature kills almost all pathogens that would cause illness. As a result flareon do not need to be vaccinated. In fact, vaccination is quite difficult due to high body temperatures and the instant cauterization of puncture wounds. Most standard needles will melt between the blood temperature and the fire trying to seal the injection site. Treating flareon injuries in general requires sedation, usually by hypnosis. An awake and hurt flareon will be running very high body temperatures and might lash out at anything that gets close.

Friction wounds and compound fractures are the most serious injuries for flareon. Severe friction burns can cause large areas of skin to be damaged. The cauterization is best at closing small wounds. If the area is too large then the remaining skin may be weakened to such a degree that it eventually ruptures and causes a rapid depressurization, killing the flareon. Compound fractures require surgery to fix. It is extremely difficult to operate on a flareon without risking serious burns. The automatic cauterization also makes incisions difficult. Most veterinarians refuse to operate on flareon and will recommend the pokémon be put down if a compound fracture would severely reduce its quality of life.

Evolution

Flareon evolve when exposed to a great deal of fire elemental energy. This sometimes occurs during forest fires. It is far more common in areas of volcanic activity. Outside of these natural triggers, evolution requires a fire stone. Fire stones are most commonly found around volcanoes, but they can also sometimes be found in places of intense heat and low humidity or in the aftermath of a major fire. Fire stones are one of the least expensive elemental stones in Alola as they are often produced by Mauna Wela or found in mines around the archipelago. Trainers who want to evolve their eevee into a flareon are encouraged to buy a small fire stone and see if it is enough to trigger evolution upon consumption. If this fails the eevee is probably close to evolution, but not quite over the threshold. Renting a larger fire stone and keeping it near the eevee but out of reach should trigger evolution without depleting the stone.

Battle

Flareon are very difficult to safely make contact with. They have a solid resistance to elemental energies and very hot flames. Despite these strengths, flareon are almost never used in high level battling.

Every one of flareon’s strengths has a corresponding weakness. Their flames are hot, but most flareon cannot maintain them for more than five seconds at a time. They also have trouble projecting the flames more than two meters. Long flamethrowers are usually less intense than short range overheats or flame bursts. Flareon’s jaws and muscles are powerful enough to finish off anything that gets close, but they are too slow to really close the distance with opponents.

Flareon are resistant to elemental energy attacks and if taught wish as an eevee they can heal themselves up as they take damage. They can also instantly heal small scrapes and puncture wounds. But their bones are not particularly durable and their fur and skin are meant for insulation, not defense. Rock- and ground-type attacks can easily overwhelm them from a distance. Water-types, some of the most common ranged attackers, can also comfortably handle flareon. It still retains a small niche as a counter to common fairies like clefable, sylveon, gardevoir, florges, and mega mawile, but otherwise flareon is solidly outclassed by arcanine and the Eurasian ninetales.

On the island challenge flareon do a little better. If they can get close they can often deal seirous damage in a few seconds, and most of the totems are tanks or walls. Speedster totems are rare. Unfortunately, the current lineup of kahunas boasts rock and ground type specialists, two of flareon’s most serious weaknesses.

Acquisition

Europe does not have many active volcanoes, so flareon are uncommon in the region. A few have been sighted in Italy or Greece, but almost none have been seen in northern Europe. Alola is one of the few places on earth with enough volcanic activity to make natural flareon evolutions a common occurrence. Capture is currently prohibited on Akala so researchers at Wela National Park can study the population. The main purpose of the study is to figure out if flareon are still solitary when there are several others in the area. Most flareon live in remote areas where flareon can spread out and food is rare. When both flareon and food are common how will social dynamics change?

Flareon can be purchased or adopted with a Class IV license. Flareon is the most common eeveelution in shelters as trainers whose eevee unexpectedly evolves are often incapable of or unwilling to care for the fire-type. Some importers and pokémon dealers also sell flareon.

At present trainers do not need a higher license to keep a flareon that evolves from an eevee they legally owned. This is to reduce the burden on Alola’s shelters. Trainers who cannot pass the Class III exam should seriously consider whether they have the expertise, resources, and commitment to care for a flareon.

Breeding

Flareon in the wild and captivity are shy about mating. Relatively little is known about their mating rituals as a result. Most flareon pairings observed, even in the wild, tend to be with non-flareon mammalian fire-types. Whether this is because of an aversion to their own species or a lack of conspecifics in the area is unclear. If the flareon is the sire the mother may give birth to a few eevee. Flareon mothers tend to give birth to more of the sire’s species than their own. They also show a preference for raising babies that are born as fire-types. Eevee, with their low heat tolerance, are sent out on their own as soon as they are born. Flareon have very long pregnancies compared to the other eeveelutions to let the fetuses develop enough that nursing will be unnecessary.

Captive breeding of flareon is difficult, even with two flareon that tolerate each other. Pregnancies are long, over eight months, and stress at any point during the pregnancy can result in body temperatures high enough to kill the fetus. If a flareon chooses a mate on its own there is no reason to stop it from breeding. Even the most experienced of breeders rarely attempt to breed a female flareon. Male flareon are occasionally used as a sire for growlithe, litleo, litten, fenniken, or vulpix if elevated body temperatures are desired in the offspring.

Relatives

Consult the Eevee entry for more information.

 

[Persephone]

Espeon
Mutatiovulpes octoplumiter – 4

Overview

Espeon have been prized for a long time. Chinese emperors and Indian nobles often received and gave espeon imported from Europe as gifts. The European traders were careful to only send male espeon so that the export market could remain strong indefinitely. This led to espeon being associated with wealth and nobility in most of Asia. Some of these views inevitably trickled back to Europe.

There are good reasons to value espeon. They are intelligent and loyal companions that prefer to be friends or partners with their trainer. Over time they can learn to telepathically communicate with humans. Espeon also possess a limited form of precognition. Emperors and kings often kept espeon with them while holding court to act as a silent advisor and sense imminent danger. Their care requirements are also much less extreme than some of the other eeveelutions.

The nobles of old did run into one problem, though – espeon are prone to disobeying or ignoring anyone they don’t respect. As telepaths they can gain insights into who a person truly is. Vile individuals and corrupt rulers have to offer their espeon massive bribes to earn even a moment of obedience. In China espeon refusing to cooperate with an emperor was seen as a sign that the dynasty had lost their Mandate from Heaven. Some court members even tried to bribe an emperor’s espeon into a public show of disobedience to sow doubts about the emperor’s character. This usually backfired when the espeon took the bribe and then told the emperor what had transpired.

Physiology

Espeon are classified as pure psychic-types.

Espeon have two coats of short, fine lilac fur across their entire body. The shorter coat is made up of a dense layer of ground hairs. The guard hairs are longer, coarser, and sparser than the ground hairs. Espeon’s lips are also a lilac color to make their mouth appear smaller and less threatening. Their build is slender with dainty front paws. The back paws are larger and the hindlegs and rump are heavily muscled. This leads to espeon’s rump being higher than the shoulders while standing up. The hindlegs can be used to launch the pokémon into sprints or up to twelve feet into the air.

The ears also have tufts of lilac fur in them to keep warm on cooler nights. Espeon’s ears are pointed and very large. They can also be bent at the midway point to muffle sounds or intensify sounds from a given angle. An even stranger facial feature is the ‘gem.’ This gem is not made of actual stone. Instead, it is a hairless, blood-filled bulge of thin skin on the head.

This gem, the ears, and maybe espeon’s forked tail tips help with one of espeon’s strangest abilities: precognition. Espeon can use wind currents and psychic abilities to predict the movements of opponents. They can know what angles of attack predators and prey will use and maneuver accordingly. Some espeon can even predict the weather.

Espeon’s precognition is partially reliant on psychic abilities. These abilities are charged by sunlight. Espeon are not good at holding this charge. During the night or when held indoors for too long their psychic powers will begin to fade.

Espeon can reach heights of twenty inches at the rump. They can weigh up to eighteen pounds. Captive specimens can live for up to forty years. Wild specimens rarely live to see fifteen.

Behavior

Espeon are ambush predators in the wild. They prefer to prey upon small birds and flying insects. The espeon will hide in tall grass and wait until its precognition tells it that a bird will fly overhead soon. Then it will leap out of the grass to grab the bird in midair, using bites or short-ranged telepathic strikes to cripple the prey and send it back down to earth.

Espeon usually housebreak themselves after a time observing other pokémon or their trainer. Some espeon insist upon using toilets when available, while others prefer a litter box.

While technically diurnal, they spend most of their day resting under the sun. Espeon prefer warmer areas but have occasionally been sighted in colder regions such as Galar. Their fur, even with the ear tufts and guard hairs, is not enough to keep them warm. More temperate regions also have less sunlight in the winter, curtailing their offensive and defensive abilities for half the year. On particularly cold nights espeon have been known to bully something out of its burrow and use it themselves. Otherwise they tend to sleep in shrubs, bushes, or small crevasses.

There are a few pokémon that prey on espeon. In Alola raticate or rattata will sometimes bother them while they at night. This has led the feral population on Akala to hide in trees. This leaves them somewhat vulnerable to any feral persian in the area. While their partially-air-based precognition can help them sense the approach of dark-types, they still struggle to actually harm any that get close. Their best option is to flee, something made difficult by their general sluggishness at night.

Espeon are one of the only eeveelutions that are solitary in the wild. Immediately after mating the male and female will separate. The mother allows her eevee to stay with her for about a year after birth. Sometimes she will allow a daughter to stay for a little longer, but males and most females will be rejected at this point.

On rare occasion an espeon will be social with a creature of similar or higher intelligence such as oranguru and slowking. They count humans in this company as well. Other espeon are not tolerated, probably to reduce competition. Some espeon even become the ‘pets’ of a particularly wise oranguru. At least one has been captured in a pokéball the oranguru somehow found and learned to use. What either party gets out of this relationship is unclear.

Husbandry

As intelligent pokémon, espeon have much higher enrichment needs than the average canine or feline. Spending time with their trainer is usually their preferred means of enrichment, but this does mean that the espeon will try to monopolize as much of its trainer’s time asp possible. They may resort to mischief when ignored, such as using telekinesis and precognition to subtly adjust objects in such a way that their trainer will cause them to fall over and break later in the day. Espeon’s cry is high-pitched and wavering. Some trainers have compared it to an electric toothbrush or a malfunctioning digital alarm clock. They can also project this sound directly into their trainer’s head, making earplugs useless. Intelligent teammates can help alleviate the espeon’s boredom, making them a good fit on psychic-type specialist’s teams.

The best enrichment item is an elevated perch in direct sunlight. Ideally there should be at least two in a home, one for the morning and one for the evening. A skylight or outdoor access can allow them to bask in the middle of the day as well. Some espeon will give themselves outdoor access by telekinetically picking locks. Mobiles are also excellent toys as they allow the espeon to practice jumping. Some particularly ambitious espeon will try to jump from the floor onto a ceiling fan.

Espeon will also assist their trainer in small chores from time to time. Once they have experience with humans they can even act as a translator between a trainer and their team. Espeon that have grown attached will also look after their trainer, making sure physical needs are met and helping work through psychological problems when they can.

Illness

Espeon require vaccinations for parovirus, rabies, and distemper. Unlike most eeveelutions, espeon are catlike enough that they require vaccinations for feline parovirus and feline distemper instead of the canine counterparts. Some veterinarians will also vaccinate for the canine variants of these diseases as well.

Espeon will happily eat most hard cat or canine food without problems. They prefer soft diets, but these have their own problems. A soft diet will eventually cause the espeon’s jaw to weaken. Supplements will be required. The best is a weekly provision of bones with meat attached to them, presenting an enrichment item, food, and exercise at the same time.

Exhaustion is the most common ailment in captive espeon. Battling too hard without a chance to recharge in the sunlight will wear them out and lead to a total cessation of psychic abilities and deteriorating mental and physical health. Allowing the pokémon to rest in direct sunlight is the best way to prevent exhaustion. During the wet season some professional trainers also employ specialized lamps that mimic sunlight. Habitat balls with artificial sunlight are also preferable to stasis balls for this reason, although espeon tend to resent being held in any type of pokéball for long. Most prefer to accompany their trainer almost everywhere and will become vindicative when trapped anywhere for long.

Evolution

Eevee evolve into espeon when they receive plenty of sunlight or elemental energy connected to the sun, such as so-called sun stones. Frequent exposure to psychic-types may also contribute to the evolution, although this is currently disputed in the literature. While the trigger for evolution is common, the threshold for evolution is very high. It is most common in areas with low rainfall and high temperatures, such as deserts. Tropical environments also seem to have more espeon than umbreon, the other eeveelution with a common trigger.

Espeon seem to have developed thin coats and broad ears to better deal with desert environments. Aside from micro deserts formed by pokémon activity or the erosion of agricultural land there are no deserts in eevee’s native range. Their telepathy and jumping serve them well in a number of habitats and they are less specialized than most eeveelutions. Along with umbreon they may be considered one of the default evolutions of eevee, built to handle areas where no one typing has a strong advantage over the others.

Evolving a captive eevee into an espeon is a somewhat unpredictable process. An eevee that spends most of its life outside in areas away from volcanoes, forests, tundras, power plants, and major bodies of water has a slightly higher chance of evolving into espeon than umbreon in Alola. This advantage is entirely undercut in areas that have historically seen frequent meteorite impacts, such as the Haina Valley and Mauna Hokulani. Trainers interested in having their eevee evolve into espeon should invest in a sun stone for their eevee.

Battle

Espeon are fast, reasonably powerful, and capable of learning a variety of tricks. They see some use among professional trainers but are still a relative rarity. They compete with alakazam and reuniclus for offensive roles and more durable psychic-types like slowbro, mr. mime, and xatu for defensive and utility slots.

The one niche they have for themselves relies on their precognition. Ordinarily espeon precognition can be played around with homing attacks, high speeds, and area of effect moves that are not easily dodged. But espeon’s telepathy and telekinesis let them set traps like no other. When there are spikes or stealth rocks on the field espeon can subtly push them around into places where they will do the most damage to the opponent in the future. An espeon played early might do more damage to the enemy after it has fainted than when it is on the field. Once they are done setting traps they can try to set up screens or clam mind boosts to baton pass to an ally. Alternatively, they can go on the attack with psychic. Espeon are relatively frail, though, so they rarely get a chance to do much more than set up traps in the highest level of play. Field control techniques like defog are also common, potentially negating all of espeon’s work in a minute. Some trainers have tried consulting with espeon before the battle, but espeon often struggle to use their precognition without an imminent threat.

On the island challenge entry hazards are far less common. Players will need to bring their own, having another pokémon set them before espeon moves them into the ideal positions. Relatively few trainers and totems have field clearing techniques, making it hard to instantly undo the pokémon’s work. Many spread moves like earthquake are also banned in most casual arenas, reducing the options available to work around precognition.

Finally, the power level is generally lower in casual matches than in professional ones. This means that espeon might be able to take a hit or two, especially behind screens. Between screens, morning sun, and calm mind espeon can actually find chances to set up and try to sweep opponents. Alternatively, the clam mind boosts can be baton passed to a faster or bulkier team member.

Acquisition

Espeon can occasionally be found in the interior of Akala. Capture is permitted with a Class I license. Espeon populations have been reasonably well-studied elsewhere. The Alolan population is not particularly useful for scientists so capture has been authorized to clear up habitat for the species of interest. Espeon can also be adopted or purchased with a Class I license.

Breeding

A female espeon, if receptive, will flop onto her side when she sees a male. The male may then initiate mating. The act is finished within minutes, at which point the female will drive the male away. Espeon are not at all picky about their mates and have been known to breed in the wild with other espeon, other eeveelutions, canine, vulpine, and feline pokémon, rodent pokémon, and several other species of mammal. They are the easiest to cross-breed in captivity because their aversion to other espeon makes it easier to keep them in close proximity to another species rather than espeon. Sometimes a female espeon will randomly mate with one of her teammates and the trainer will only find out when signs of pregnancy emerge.

Male espeon will not mate unless a female initiates some sort of mating ritual. This makes them difficult to crossbreed with species where the male displays for the female as both specimens, even if interested in mating, will believe the other is unwilling.

After a two-month pregnancy the female will give birth to a litter of one to six eevee. The mother dotes on her children for the first year, at which point most of her children will be promptly abandoned and she will seek a new partner to mate with.

Relatives

Consult the Eevee entry for more information.

 

[Persephone]

Umbreon
Mutatiovulpes octoplumiter – 4

Overview

Umbreon have long been seen aloof creatures of the night, coming and going with a quiet dignity. Ancient Egyptians would sometimes leave offerings for the local umbreon to eat at night in exchange for the pokémon’s protection from vermin and ghosts. Pharaohs were sometimes buried with mummified umbreon to keep their treasures safe in the afterlife.

Beneath all the mystery lies a somewhat underwhelming truth: umbreon avoid humans not because they are otherworldly protectors who see themselves as above us, but because they have debilitating social anxiety. Wild umbreon often share ranges but still never socialize, preferring to walk in different directions or find something to distract themselves with when another umbreon approaches. Their dark coat, poisonous sweat, and love for hiding places are all meant to stay away from anything their size or larger, whether or not it is actually a predator. Umbreon are only calm when they are alone and hidden. Being a trainer’s pokémon is very stressful for them due to the new people and pokémon and lack of consistent hiding places. They are often seen as mean pets prone to hissing or worse at anyone who approaches. It is true that they are not good with children or loud people, but calm and collected trainers can often earn an umbreon’s trust over many quiet evenings together. When an umbreon does decide someone else is worth knowing they can become fiercely protective and loyal friends.

Physiology

Umbreon are classified as pure dark types.

Umbreon are quadrupeds with a mostly typical feline build. Their legs, toes, and metatarsals are all long, allowing them to jump and walk better than most feline pokémon. Wild umbreon can walk two miles every night without growing tired. They can also jump up to six feet vertically or fifteen feet horizontally. Their height can also be useful for peeking over grass. Their long limbs also assist in swimming or climbing.

A number of adaptations help umbreon operate as a nocturnal ambush predator. The first is their eyes. Even compared to the other eeveelutions umbreon have an abundance of rod receptors that let them see clearly in very dim light. They do not have nearly as many cone receptors, leaving them with poor color vision. Umbreon also have long, sensitive ears that can each rotate 180 degrees. The ears help them track the movements of potential predators and prey around them without leaving their current hiding place.

When threatened umbreon can light up bioluminescent markings on the skin underneath their thin, black fur. These create glowing yellow rings along the sides, forehead, ears, and tail to make the pokémon look more intimidating. If all else fails they can begin to sweat. Umbreon sweat is foul tasting and poisonous, leading to stomach problems for anything that tries to bite them. Umbreon can also release a projectile stream of sweat from pores near their shoulders, although this spray is not particularly accurate. If all else fails umbreon have thick skin and durable shoulder and rib bones to keep them safe. They can also heal themselves with moonlight and time.

Umbreon can reach heights of forty inches at the withers and can weigh up to forty pounds, although heights of thirty-five inches and weights of twenty to thirty pounds are more typical. Wild umbreon can live for up to fifteen years. Captive specimens have lived for thirty-one.

Behavior

Umbreon are solitary hunters. During the day they hide in tall grass or an abandoned burrow. They prefer to live near running water and denser forests but are almost never seen in actual rainforest. On Alola they prefer to stick to the central portion of Akala, never venturing south past Heahea or north into the dense rainforests.

Umbreon territories overlap but individuals avoid each other and live alone. The one exception is a mother raising eevee, although even her children will be run off around their first birthday. On rare occasions the sire will stay to help raise the eevee, but this is far more common in captivity than in the wild.

Umbreon spend most of their nights slinking around their territory as they search for prey. Their preferred prey are rodents small enough that they can be killed with a single pounce. Umbreon are not particularly strong or fast and must rely on ambush strategies. Wild umbreon have also been observed killing reptiles, bug pokémon, and birds. They supplement their diet by eating grasses for the fiber.

Wild umbreon have been known to cache kills in burrows, grass, or up trees. Umbreon can carry small kills as far as thirty feet up some trees. They are not as comfortable in arboreal areas as persian but they will still retreat into trees to avoid conflicts on the ground or to enjoy a safe meal.

Husbandry

Umbreon are unusually fond of pokéballs and will happily spend the entire day and parts of the night in one. They prefer habitat balls to stasis balls, but will accept either. They are also easily housebroken.

Most commercial feline or canine mixes work for umbreon. The filler grain content actually serves a dietary purpose for umbreon as they naturally eat fibrous plants in the wild. Trainers wanting to feed their pokémon a more natural diet can use poultry or red meat as the core of the diet with berries and grains as a supplement. Whole maize is a toy and a treat for umbreon as they must pull back the husk. Once the kernels are eaten the rest can be played with. Putting frozen seafood in a bathtub or inflatable pool also makes for good enrichment. Seafood is not a standard part of umbreon’s diet but it does make a fun novelty from time to time.

The main problem with captive umbreon is their anxiety. Umbreon are happiest when they have a place where they can stay hidden but still observe the world around them. Boxes, bags, real or artificial tall grass, and high perches make for good hiding places. Sometimes an umbreon will ask to be put inside of a closet or their pokéball during particularly loud situations or when small children are around and trying to play with them. If umbreon are given space they can entertain themselves. Over time they may begin to express more and more interest in their trainer and teammates, but this must be allowed to happen at their own pace. In time umbreon can become attached to a select group. This will not reduce their skittishness around strangers.

Despite their social anxiety, umbreon are still as destructive as any other vulpine or feline pokémon. They particularly enjoy tipping over water bowls, and may then become upset that there is no water for them to drink. Umbreon will scratch furniture to mark it or wear down their claws. Scratching posts alleviate furniture scratching but it will take persistent conditioning to get it to stop entirely. Umbreon can be effectively reprimanded with a stern look.

For whatever reason some umbreon are fond of having their claws marked with brightly colored nail polish. Some prefer a single colors while others will want multiple. Some umbreon accept spa trips as a reward as they enjoy nail painting and don’t mind heat, water, and grooming. These are best done with a trusted human, as otherwise the number of new humans around may make them too anxious to enjoy the experience.

Many trainers are surprised when their umbreon starts making noises. Umbreon can make a wide variety of sounds such as meows, hisses, cackles, grunts, and chirps. They will not typically vocalize unless in heat or around someone they trust. An umbreon becoming unexpectedly vocal is not a bad thing, although one that is not spayed or neutered can become a nuisance when in heat.

Umbreon do not appreciate loud teammates or those without proper boundaries. Quiet teammates, especially those of a similar size, are the best. Small rodents are seen as prey rather than potential allies. Large carnivores will unnerve umbreon and lead to frequent defensive behaviors such as poison spraying.

Illness

Umbreon in Alola are required to be vaccinated against rabies, as well as the other standard feline vaccinations. Some veterinarians will also administer canine vaccinations as well. Umbreon are more feline than canine, but as an evolution of eevee their genotype and phenotype are both not entirely feline.

Umbreon fed a poor diet can suffer from obesity, Type II diabetes, metabolic bone disease, and dental problems. Some umbreon are quite greedy and will find ways to pilfer or cache food when their trainer isn’t looking. It is important to keep umbreon food behind childproof locks, bear bags, or some other system where it cannot be easily accessed.

Umbreon are also prone to upper respiratory diseases. Colds, coughs, and sinus infections are all common. If symptoms do not go away within three days make sure to consult a veterinarian.

Evolution

Along with espeon, umbreon is one of the two generalist eeveelutions that can thrive in most environments. Exposure to lunar energy or meteorites has been known to trigger evolution, but they can evolve without unusually large exposure to these sources. Scientists are unsure of the exact trigger. High predator populations in the surrounding area, cortisol in the blood, an abundance of nocturnal prey, and cool temperatures have all been found as possible triggers for evolution into umbreon instead of espeon.

In captivity the only trigger that can easily and ethically be introduced is a moon stone. Eevee over six months old have a very high probability of evolving into umbreon when presented with a moon stone. Evolution will probably drain the stone if direct contact is allowed. Prolonged proximity to a moon stone separated by fabric can also trigger evolution without draining the stone. Be warned that an eevee might try to break into the container holding the moon stone in order to evolve, draining the stone and dramatically reducing its resale value.

Battle

Umbreon have some affinity for dark energy, but not to the same extent that the other eeveelutions can tap into their typing. Instead they rely on their durability and ability to regenerate via moonlight. They can use elemental energy to heal during the day, but it is far more effective at night. The lunar cycle also plays a role in umbreon’s ability to keep themselves healthy as a battle drags on. Several professional trainers own an umbreon as a pet and occasional team members, but their unreliability and reluctance to battle in front of crowds mean that no ranked trainer keeps one on their core team.

In battle Umbreon’s main advantage is their durability. They have a high resistance to elemental energy and a fairly durable body, letting them shrug off most attacks. What they can’t shrug off can be healed. They also have access to utility moves such as wish, toxic, taunt, charm, heal bell, helping hand, and toxic. The combination lets umbreon keep itself healthy for long enough to support the team or whittle down a particularly dangerous opponent.

Unfortunately, umbreon are not the monstrous elemental sponges that blissey are or a near impervious physical wall like steelix. Very strong hits, the kind that most ranked trainers can bring, will wear them down or outright knock them out. Their utility movepool gives them a niche, but it’s a small one. They also cannot hit particularly hard or run very fast, making them unable to deter opponents from getting close or effectively punish risky plays. Their sweat is unpleasant and can be used as a base for a toxic attack, but it doesn’t do much actual harm to opponents in the short term. Even in the long term it’s more of a nuisance than a serious threat.

The hits are not nearly as hard on the island challenge. Most battles are fought away from crowds, letting umbreon fight without strangers around. Some trials can even be done at night upon request. This lets umbreon function far better than it can on higher levels of play. The main problem is that utility moves can be harder to train than attacking ones, especially for a pokémon as reluctant to interact with its trainer as umbreon can be.

Acquisition

Umbreon can be found across most of Central Akala from Heahea City up to the national parks in the north. The wild population is allowed to continue with some supervision due to their effectiveness as rodent catchers. Capture is still allowed with a Class II license. Actually catching an umbreon is harder as they prefer to stay far out of view during the day and keep their distance from humans at night. Adoption is sporadically available with a Class II license and they can be purchased with the same license for a rather hefty price.

In any case, umbreon bond with their trainer and team much more effectively if they knew them before evolution. It is strongly recommended that the umbreon be obtained as an eevee and then later evolved with a moon stone.

Breeding

Umbreon go into heat about twice a year. The timing varies by region but is usually about thirty days before the most common local rodent gives birth. If a female in heat crosses paths with another umbreon in their territory she will begin to vocalize to draw their attention. It seems that umbreon do not particularly care whether the specimen they encounter is male or female. If both are receptive they will approach each other and continue to vocalize for about fifteen minutes before mating. The two will then separate and go back to avoiding each other. If another female was mated with the umbreon will continue to look for a male until she finds one or the sun rises. The female is in heat for approximately five days and will attempt to mate once on every night she is in heat.

Pregnancy lasts roughly sixty to seventy days. During this time the umbreon will find an abandoned burrow or cause one to be abandoned by harassing or killing the occupants. She will then give birth to a litter of one to four eevee, although two or three is far more common. The mother will look after her eevee for a year or until they evolve, whichever comes first. The older eevee will help raise the year’s second litter.

Captive umbreon will begin to get a little desperate as sunrise approaches and they have not yet mated with an umbreon. They will agree to mate with other eeveelutions, feline, canine, or vulpine pokémon, or anything that vaguely looks like another umbreon. This is how most crossbreeding is done. The male will sometimes stay with the female in captivity, especially if they were on the same team beforehand. In any case the female will need a cubbing den that only she has access to. This will make her feel secure during the pregnancy and greatly reduces the risk of miscarriage. The inside of the den should be lined with soft material such as blankets to preserve heat and keep mother and eevee warm. Synthetic fleece is not recommended as the texture is similar to that of an umbreon’s. Umbreon-born eevee will sometimes attempt to suckle on it and drink portions of the fabric, resulting in constipation.

Relatives

Consult the Eevee entry for more information.

 

[Persephone]

Leafeon
Mutatiovulpes octoplumiter – 6

Overview

Leafeon is the most biologically unique of the eeveelutions. All of the other known eeveelutions have mammalian anatomy, and almost always carnivoran anatomy. Leafeon have a body shape similar to a vulpine pokmeon, but their cellular structure is closer to that of a plant than an animal. Like plants leafeon primarily feed themselves with sugars produced by photosynthesis.

Leafeon fully capitalize on the advantage of grass-type pokémon over normal plants: mobility. In the densest of forests, they use their claws and powerful hindlegs to climb up to the emergent layer and bask in the sunlight. Any predatory birds that try to prey upon them will discover just how sharp a leafeon’s tail blade can be.

The species is best suited for old growth subtropical and tropical forests. In eevee’s native range there are few suitable habitats. The few that exist are mostly created by other pokémon, such as Galar’s Glimwood Tangle. Leafeon’s existence implies that warmer forest areas may have been more common in the region at some point within the last 3,000 years. Or, perhaps, eevee’s natural range extended farther south than was previously believed. There are scattered records of escaped espeon in India, China, and Southeast Asia producing eevee that evolved into a green creature. If true, then the leafeon in the area have either died out or retreated to the deepest portions of the rainforest.

Leafeon are popular as the lowest maintenance eeveelution. As long as they have access to warm, humid air and natural sunlight they can be content. They are reluctant but powerful battlers. Leafeon might not be suitable for a core team, but every so often they can be brought in to turn the tides of a critical match.

Physiology

Leafeon are classified as pure grass types.

Leafeon have a slim vulpine build with plant-like features. Their long, pointed ears turn green and develop a waxy texture towards the tips. A tuft of leaf-like hears grows out of the top of their head. Their long, jagged tail is deep green and has the texture of a slightly crumpled leaf. Across their body different patches of fur turn green and stick out above the rest of the coat. In truth all of leafeon’s ‘fur’ is closer in composition to pine needles than to hair. Young leafeon have a primarily cream coat with brown paws. Progressively more of the coat turns green as the pokémon ages.

Young leafeon still retain sharp teeth and a functioning digestive tract. They eat nuts and fruit for some of their diet and hunt small pokémon and animals for their remainder. Within two months the leafeon can receive 30% of its energy from photosynthesis. By the one-year mark after evolution nearly 70% of a leafeon’s food comes from photosynthesis and the remainder from plant material. Leafeon’s sharp incisors fall out and are replaced by teeth better suited for cracking nuts and chewing food. Over time the digestive tract simplifies and eventually atrophies as photosynthesis becomes the pokémon’s sole source of food.

Unlike all non-pokémon animals and most pokémon animals, leafeon have cell wells. On a celluluar level they are much closer to plants than animals and their skin and fur cells are geared towards facilitating photosynthesis.

Leafeon have sharp claws and powerful hind legs to help them jump and climb. Their stellar sense of balance and small paws help them walk along thin branches high above the forest floor. Leafeon can pour energy into their tail blade to turn it into a sharp weapon capable of cutting through bone. The process is energy intensive and only used in the wild as a last resort.

The final adaptation leafeon possess is a state of semi-dormancy. Leafeon can dramatically lower their rate of respiration and enter into a state of deep sleep. Some awareness remains to process loud sounds and make subtle adjustments in posture for balance. Otherwise leafeon simply sleep and soak up sunlight. This has been known to scare many trainers when their leafeon will not wake up. Taking drastic measures such as shaking the pokémon may wake it up but will probably wake it up in a panic. A panicked, half-asleep leafeon is likely to resort to a leaf blade attack on whatever the potential threat is. If a dormant leafeon must be awoken it is best to do so by speaking loudly or by poking it with an object longer than the pokémon’s tail.

Leafeon can weigh up to twelve pounds and stand eighteen inches tall at the withers. Their wild lifespan is poorly understood. Captive specimens can live for over fifty years.

Behavior

Young leafeon spend most of their time in the understory layer of the forest. During the day they will climb higher to bask in sunlight. At dawn, dusk, and night they will descend to find food. They need to hunt or scavenge for some of their diet. Leafeon’s mobility can help them get access to bird eggs. They can also ambush small rodents by jumping from a tree branch for a maximally powerful pounce.

As they age leafeon become progressively less active and more arboreal. The oldest known wild leafeon spend most of their time sleeping in the treetops. When they must forage for water or food they will try to find it in the canopy layer before expanding their search into the understory. Water can be found pooled on broad leaves following rainstorms. After their foraging is complete, elderly leafeon return to their favorite perch and go back to sleep.

Leafeon are solitary at all life stages. If two leafeon encounter each other they may briefly stop to sniff the other and speak before going their separate ways. They do not intentionally cross paths.

Relatively little is known about natural wild leafeon behaviors compared to the other eeveelutions. The places leafeon can naturally be found are difficult to navigate. Leafeon also blend in well with the leaves around them and are only really active after sundown. Recent drone studies of the Glimwood Tangle has advanced the understanding of leafeon’s basking habits, but the forest is notoriously difficult to navigate outside of the few marked paths. At least one field researcher entered the forest to study wild leafeon in their natural habitat and was never seen again. Similar problems arise in Floresta De Chuva Negra Parque Nacional due to the aggressive native pokémon.

The population in Alolan Rainforests National Preserve is one of the easiest to study. Biologists hope that further studies will shed light on the second least understood eeveelution.

Husbandry

Leafeon are well known for being mellow pokémon, especially compared to some of the drama of the other eeveelutions. Elderly leafeon will spend most of their time sleeping in sunbeams or under heat lamps if given the chance. Traveling with them can be difficult as they do not like to be moved. Instead it is best to find one or two solid perches, ideally attached to climbing structures, and only interact with them when they come down for water, fruit or leaves, stimulation, or socialization.

Younger leafeon are somewhat more active pokémon. They love to climb but will also accept walks. Some will gladly play with toys. Others will not. Nuts and fruit must be provided daily, with fresh fruit being better than canned or dried. Eggs or boiled poultry should be provided on a weekly basis. Water bowls should also be offered at least once every three days. They are nocturnal pokémon that will sprawl out and nap during the day if given the chance. Most dislike pokéballs, with the exception of habitat balls that simulate sunlight.

All leafeon have teeth and claws that grow over time. Older leafeon that have less reason to climb or eat must be provided with bones to gnaw on. Claw trimming is safe and painless but generally disliked. It is easiest to trim their nails when they are sleeping in a sunbeam and reluctant to move.

Leafeon produce far less waste than similarly sized canines or felines. They occasionally defecate or urinate and appreciate having a dedicated place to do so. From time to time they will also secrete sap from glands on their neck and ankles. This is most often done around the mating season (see Reproduction). Leafeon will attempt to rub this sap on wooden objects or climbing structures nearby. If their claws are not regularly trimmed they might also scratch furniture.

For better or worse, leafeon have a distinctive smell that comes to infuse their environment. Young leafeon smell like freshly cut grass. Older specimens smell like fallen leaves. Some companies use shed leaves and fur to create perfumes. Leafeon trainers may want to reach out to local companies. Shedding can be turned from a nuisance into a profit.

Some leafeon appreciate certain scents, making them effective treats. Peppermint is a much beloved scent, but some leafeon seem to have little reaction to it. Try different plant’s scents until a good match is found.

Illness

Leafeon’s hybrid anatomy makes them resistant to many diseases. They are too animal-like to succumb to plant diseases and too plant-like to be made seriously ill by most animal diseases. They are prone to minor cases of both, contributing to their lethargy. A sick leafeon will shed a lot more than a healthy one. Sometimes their color will fade and the specimen will spend more time looking for food or water than usual. Sick leafeon should receive larger portions of food. Their hybrid anatomy makes most treatments less effective so it is best to just quarantine the pokémon and wait out the illness.

Vaccinations tend not to work for leafeon and can sometimes led to severe reactions. As such they are exempt from the vaccination requirements that apply to eevee and its other evolutions.

Evolution

Leafeon evolve when exposed to a great deal of plant elemental energy. This is most common in pokémon-maintained forests, or in tropical forests with a great deal of grass-types living in them. Captive eevee raised around many grass-types will probably evolve into a leafeon in time. Leaf stones can be used to accelerate the process. The energy around Alolan Rainforests National Preserve is often enough to make a leafeon spontaneously evolve after a few days. Many eevee trainers are surprised by their pokémon’s new evolution. Some will even abandon it and acquire another eevee in hopes of getting the desired evolution instead.

Battle

Leafeon do not like to battle. They can be coaxed into it on occasion, especially with the promise of a beloved fruit or scent, but almost no leafeon truly enjoys combat. Professional trainers are often frustrated by this as leafeon can be quite powerful when they do battle.

Leafeon’s main method of attack is charging their tail blade with elemental energy. This can be further enhanced by swords dance. Some leafeon can cut metal with boosted leaf blade attacks. They can also convert pokémon-enhanced sunlight into a burst of energy, letting them fully use their nimbleness with quick, graceful attacks. Any damage sustained can then be healed with synthesis. If things get too dire, the pokémon can use baton pass to transfer the boosts on to a healthier ally. In Alola the move Celebrate can be enhanced with Z-power to create a general power boost that can be passed on or used by the leafeon.

Outside of sun teams leafeon lose much of their utility. They are still very strong, but they cannot take hits well enough or run fast enough to stay in the fight for long. Leafeon are at their best in environments where they can climb. On the island challenge leafeon can be used at the end of totem battles. The rest of the team will slow down and damage the totem, paving the way for a leafeon to finish the battle in a few strong hits. If all goes well the leafeon will not need to battle long, mitigating the specie’s lack of durability and distaste for battle.

Acquisition

Leafeon can be found in most of Alolan Rainforests National Preserve. The best time to see them is around dusk and dawn in the understory. Alternatively, trainers flying above the treetops can also spot them during the day. Capture is currently prohibited to allow for study of the wild population. The shelters near the preserve often have abandoned leafeon available for any trainer who wants one. Some breeders also sell leafeon for a price. Leafeon can be obtained with a Class I license.

Breeding

During the early dry season leafeon will begin marking branches in the understory. If one finds a scent they like they will stay near the marking for a day and wait to see if the marker returns. If the leafeon both find the other acceptable they will descend to the forest floor to mate. The mating act itself is quick, rarely taking more than five minutes. Both partners will then go their separate ways. Females can mate with as many as ten males during this time.

After approximately fifty days the female will give birth to a litter of one to five eevee. During this time the mother will find a burrow to steal in a tree hollow or on the forest floor. She will fill it with soft leaves and grasses. The mother will bask in the canopy during the day before returning to her offspring in the evening. If she finds that the burrow has been disturbed she may abandon her children and leave the area.

Once the eevee are six months old their mother will stop attending to them. Females will stay within two miles of their mother and receive occasional check-ins. Males are expected to leave the area.

There is a ‘dating app’ service for leafeon. Sap samples are exchanged via male. If two leafeon like the other’s scent they can be introduced to see if they will mate. Sap can be evaluated outside of mating season, although there is some evidence that females may have different preferences at different times of the year. The parents do not need to live together and will not be social if they are owned by the same trainer.

Leafeon are very sensitive to human interference with their eevee. It is best to give them as much privacy as possible and only interact to place food in the enclosure. Health checkups of newborn eevee are usually recommended, but they are not practical for leafeon. Trainers that do wish to take their leafeon’s eevee will have to raise them by hand. The mother may be reluctant to produce more litters in the future.

Crossbreeding leafeon is possible with a number of carnivoran and plant pokémon. Crossbreeding works in much the same way and requires the pokémon to show interest in the sap or scent of their partner. This is most easily done if the leafeon has not smelled a conspecific in over a year.

Relatives

Consult the Eevee entry for more information

 

[Persephone]

Glaceon
Mutatiovulpes octoplumiter – 7

Overview

The northern reaches of Scandanavia are home to some of the most unforgiving habitats in Europe. Glaceon find a way to thrive. Not only can they survive Arctic winters, they find them to be preferable to the summers. Wild glaceon cannot truly thrive outside of the Arctic, Subarctic, glaciated mountains, and areas kept cold year-round by ice-types.

Glaceon can make for inquisitive, captivating, and powerful pets. They are also not well-suited for Alola. Dedicated ice-type specialists with multiple pokémon that can lower the ambient temperatures can successfully care for glaceon, but most other trainers will struggle. Alolan vulpix are less temperature sensitive and share many of the same traits, although they can be considerably more disagreeable than the generally calm glaceon.

Physiology

Glaceon are classified as pure ice-types.

Glaceon are small felines with a thin but dense layer of light blue fur. Dark blue patterns run along the back, the forehead, the tip of the tail, the inner ears, and the paws. Glaceon also possess a set of dark blue whiskers. These whiskers are often soaked in water and flash-frozen to provide a ready-made ice shard.

The species has several adaptations to survive in Arctic winters. They are poikilotherms, making them literally and figuratively cold-blooded. To survive their low body temperatures their tissues are designed in such a way that they have a much lower freezing point than the tissue of other mammals. Glaceon’s blood has a freezing point considerably lower than antifreeze. These adaptations allow glaceon to survive cold winters without expending a great deal of energy heating themselves. Glaceon also possess large, broad paws that help them burrow and walk on snow.

Glaceon have a few major sensory adaptations. The first is very sensitive hearing courtesy of their long, pointed ears. Both ears can move independently to help pinpoint the location of sounds. Glaceon also have an extremely keen sense of smell and can track a beartic over thirty miles away. Thirdly, glaceon have a thermal sense that lets them detect warm bodies even through a meter of snow.

Glaceon can grow to be 32 inches tall at the withers. They can weigh up to twenty-one pounds. Most wild glaceon die within two years of evolution, but some have been recorded living for thirty years. Captive specimens seldom live for more than twenty.

Behavior

Most denizens of the tundra are only active in the summer. When winter comes they migrate away or dramatically lower their metabolism before retreating into a burrow. Glaceon do the opposite. They maintain extensive burrow networks with multiple chambers and exits. The most prominent exits are south-facing to ensure the maximum amount of heat enters the burrow. These burrows are passed down across generations and are very well-maintained. Warming climates have caused some of these burrows to collapse, leading to a decline in the wild population.

During the summer glaceon spend most of their time sleeping in their burrows. They will occasionally emerge to hunt, but for the most part they avoid the surface and the larger predators that are active in the summer. Glaceon located near the coast make one exception. When shorebirds lay eggs they will head to the coastal cliffs and eat as many eggs as they can. What they cannot eat they take back to their burrow and cache them for later. A glaceon may make several trips over the course of a week to cache the most eggs possible.

Glaceon emerge from their burrows shortly after the beartic begin to hibernate. Their thermal sense is used to locate smaller pokémon that have taken shelter beneath the snow. They will then dig down to find the pokémon. Glaceon can flash-freeze and harden their fur to provide a form of armor and make their own attacks more painful. This is seldom necessary during the winter as most of their prey is too subdued to properly defend themselves.

Cubchoo are one of glaceon’s favorite food sources. Beartic mothers hibernate so deeply that they do not wake up when they give birth or when their offspring are nursing. Glaceon can safely dig into any beartic dens they find and attack the much weaker cubchoo. Their mother will almost never wake to defend them, even when she is only a foot or two away.

Husbandry

Glaceon are the most carnivorous of the eeveelutions. Canine food often contains too much plant material. A feline food mix with minimal filler is the best prepackaged food for glaceon. Poultry, eggs, and rodent meat are excellent supplements. Some trainers and zoos feed glaceon their food in a block of ice they must shatter or hide the food somewhere in a maze. Glaceon have also been known to attack small pokémon, especially when they are asleep. A glaceon should not be given access to the sleeping spots of smaller teammates.

Because their burrows have dedicated latrine areas glaceon are easily housebroken.

The biggest problem of caring for glaceon in Alola is temperature. Even subarctic summers can be uncomfortably warm for glaceon. Alola’s high humidity and tropical heat are intolerable. Every glaceon trainer needs to have either a large walk-in freezer for their pet’s main enclosure or other ice-types that are skilled at lowering ambient temperatures. Alolan vulpix and ninetales are the best at this, but more expensive options such as aurorus can also do the trick. Misters, fans, and air conditioning can help but will not entirely fix the problem. It is best to store glaceon in a glacier ball that mimics polar temperatures.

Glaceon have some ability to cool the air around them, but this is energy intensive. They will need to eat twice what they usually would and will still be sluggish. This is best suited for short periods of time, such as battles and veterinarian visits.

When they are comfortable glaceon are curious and social creatures. They will want to play with their trainer and teammates whenever possible. Toys designed for babies and toddlers make for excellent stimulation. Glaceon also enjoy cuddling with other ice-types or with chilled pillows. These pillows can be bought at some specialty pokémon supply stores.

Above all, glaceon love to dig. They will dig through anything that they can and attempt to form tunnel systems. Sandboxes are good toys, especially if food pellets are sometimes mixed in for the glaceon to find by digging. Piles of snow are even better. Large PVC pipes forming a tube system between different chambers also help put glaceon at ease. If the pipes are wider than the largest part of the pokémon’s head they can find a way to squeeze through them. Make sure that every chamber and tunnel has air holes. Glaceon often think they can dig through fabric and furniture stuffing. They must be closely monitored when around soft furniture.

Illness

Glaceon’s body temperature is too low for ordinary parasites to survive. Most viruses and bacteria also do not appreciate the very cold temperatures. As a result glaceon do not often become sick and are exempt from most vaccination requirements. In more temperate areas the arctic rabies vaccine may be required, but it is not an endemic disease in Alola.

The main health problem for glaceon is hyperthermia. Almost all of glaceon’s body systems are designed for body temperatures below freezing. At higher temperatures the pokémon may not be able to digest food or replace dead cells. This results in an extreme case of sluggishness that ultimately ends in death. Sometimes restoring proper body temperatures will reverse the process. Sometimes it will not. Prevention is the best medicine. If the pokémon ever becomes exceedingly sluggish for long periods of time withdraw it and take it to a veterinarian.

Evolution

Glaceon evolve from eevee that are exposed to very cold temperatures or an abundance of ice-type elemental energy. This can be accomplished by locking an eevee in an industrial freezer for a prolonged period of time with water and food provided at regular intervals. Since most eevee in Alola keep short coats this may just result in hypothermia. It is safer to expose an eevee to an ice stone, to keep it alongside ice-type teammates, or to spend time with it in the enclosed buildings on Mt. Lanakila.

In the wild all eevee north of the Arctic Circle evolve into glaceon around their first birthday. Many children of glaceon also evolve into glaceon themselves due to the cold habitats their mother prefers.

Battle

Glaceon are some of the strongest ranged ice-type attackers available. Yet they are less popular in competitive battling than weaker ice-types such as ninetales, froslass, aurorus, and lapras. There are a few key weaknesses holding them back. The first is speed. Glaceon have good stamina but they are not fast runners. This leaves them unable to stay away from opponents while they launch their attacks. This would not be a problem if they had the durability to take hits, but they do not. Sharp fur is not a serious deterrent for pokémon battling on the world stage. Aurorus and lapras are better at taking hits and ninetales can at least boost their bulk with a fast aurora veil. Glaceon’s movepool is also rather shallow, limited to ice-type attacks, shadow ball, and a few utility tricks. Finally, glaceon take longer to change the weather in an arena than ninetales or aurorus, making them less popular on aurora veil hyper offense teams.

On the island challenge glaceon fairs better. They hate battling in the heat and much prefer indoor fights over outdoor ones. Their speed and durability are relatively better and their offense is just as devastating. Ice is a phenomenal offensive type and most trainers in Alola do not prepare well for it. With some training in power glaceon can knock out most opponents in a few blows. They work best as a final pokémon in totem battles. Their teammates can slow down the totem and chip armor where applicable. This lets glaceon finish things quickly without too much risk.

Acquisition

Glaceon cannot be found in the wild in Alola. There are no mountains on Akala that are regularly snow-capped. Even if there were the summit of one mountain is not enough range for a glaceon to survive in. Trainers who wish to obtain a glaceon are best off evolving an eevee of their own. Sometimes a shelter will have one after a trainer realizes the full difficulty of raising a glaceon in Alola. Pokémon importers can also obtain one for sale. Glaceon can be adopted or purchased with a Class IV license.

Breeding

In the wild glaceon test out pair bonds throughout the winter. If two glaceon cross paths they may accompany each other on hunts for a time or begin to sleep in the other’s den from time to time. If they are satisfied with the other they will form a pair bond and stay together. In very abundant areas the ‘pair-bond’ may be more complex and consist of a male and multiple females.

They will mate the next September. The female will give birth after a roughly forty-day pregnancy. The number of children born depends on prey abundance. In scarce times as little as one or two eevee can be born. In times of abundance a glaceon mother can give birth to up to twenty-five eevee.

Glaceon-born eevee are smaller than eevee born from most other eeveelutions. This facilitates the large litter sizes. They also hit life milestones more slowly. They do not open their eyes until they are two months old, although it will take another few months to actually see anything given the perpetual darkness of an Arctic winter. They do not leave the den until April or May If an eevee did leave the den for more than a minute or two during an Arctic winter they would be unlikely to survive. Staying underground and out of sight is necessary for survival.

Over the course of the spring the parents will take the eevee out on increasingly long trips. They will teach their offspring how to forage, which scents are dangerous, and the tricks of staying alive in very low temperatures. The father will continue to teach the eevee how to forage until the next year’s litter is born.

In areas of abundance fathers will continue to share the den with their male children and their families. The brothers may continue to share the den with each other after their father’s death. All glaceon will assist in raising the latest litters. In areas where resources are scare fathers are more inclined to kick out their evolved offspring and drive them away from the territory.

In captivity glaceon will also seek to form pair-bonds. These are not always romantic in nature. Glaceon can become very attached to other males, humans, and even stuffed animals and grow distressed when the target of bonding is removed for long. Pair-bonding is usually romantic, however. Glaceon show some of the greatest willingness to mate with pokémon of other species. However, the mate must be able to tolerate the glaceon’s preferred temperatures. Stoutland is the easiest species to crossbreed. Both major ninetales species can be reluctant to mate with ‘inferior’ creatures, but they have been coaxed to mate with glaceon in the past. One breeder managed to mate a male beartic and female glaceon despite the species being enemies in the wild.

Glaceon are often willing to let their trainer assist in raising the eevee. Procedures that require removing the eevee from its mother’s sight can still be stressful for all parties. When at all possible the mother should be allowed to accompany her offspring to veterinary examinations.

Relatives

Consult the Eevee entry for more information

 

[Persephone]

Sylveon
Mutatiovulpex octoplumiter – 8

Overview

Because of their loyalty and rarity, sylveon have been mythologized as the attendants of gods, alchemists, and heroes. There are several variations on a dragonslayer myth where a local folk hero and their trusted sylveon band together to take down a dragon-type that was threatening a village. In the east it was believed that the moon goddess was accompanied by a sylveon who delivered messages between the moon and earth. In North Africa there are tales of an alchemist from across the desert who discovered the secret to immortality with the help of his sylveon. Isaac Newton famously bought a sylveon in hopes that it would help him discover the elixir of immortality.

Actual sylveon often fail to live up to their larger-than-life reputation. They still have their strengths, like being affectionate and compassionate pets that have easier care requirements than other eeveelutions. On the battlefield they can fill offensive or defensive roles to suit the needs of the team.

Other trainers are interested in sylveon for their emotional manipulation abilities. Sylveon can read the emotions of others. They can also alter emotional states with their feelers. A well-trained sylveon can reduce violent feelings in the surrounding area to defuse fights. Less nobly, they can trick prey into letting their guard down. This ability combined with their caring nature makes them sought after by those with emotional dysregulation or severe depression.

Actually obtaining a sylveon can be difficult. Doing so reliably requires either multiple fairy-type teammates or a fairy Z-crystal. The current fairy-type trial is on Poni Island, traditionally the last step on a trainer’s journey.

Physiology

Sylveon are classified as pure fairy-types. Newton’s research on sylveon actually led to the designation of fairies as a separate typing in the scientific establishment rather than as a subclass of normal- or dark-types.

Sylveon are quadrupedal mammals with short white fur. The fur on their tail, paws, and upper head is pink. Sylveon’s ears can be over ten inches long. Their ears are rounded, unlike the ears of the other eeveelution’s. The ears can either loosely hang down beside the head or be lifted upright to maximize hearing. Sylveon have large, blue eyes. They can make out details at long distances. Some scientists have theorized that their eyes are designed for seeing details in the night sky.

The most distinctive trait of sylveon are their feelers. Sylveon have four long feelers extending from their head. These feelers do not contain muscles. They are instead filled with sensory receptors and charged with fairy-energy. Sylveon can manipulate this energy to move their feelers. The pink and blue tips of the feelers can be wrapped around an organism to enhance their effects. From a range sylveon can get a general read on emotions and slightly manipulate them. With a touch sylveon can get detailed information on the target’s emotional state and make major changes, although the changes are mostly undone when contact is lost. Two bow-like growths on the head may have similar effects. There is currently very little information on what sylveon’s bows actually do. Some experts have theorized that they manage the long-term effects of the sylveon’s emotional abilities while the feelers can only work by touch.

Sylveon are primarily herbivorous, and their stomach and intestines are designed to break down plant matter.

Sylveon usually grow to be twenty-seven inches tall at the withers. The average sylveon weighs about forty pounds, although one very obese individual weighed seventy. Captive specimens can live for up to sixty years. Little is known about the lifespan of wild sylveon.

Behavior

Wild sylveon have occasionally been sighted in the British Isles, especially within the Glimwood Tangle. The nature of their home makes it difficult to observe them. Most research on wild sylveon behaviors has been done on released sylveon or those that are owned by a trainer but are effectively left to fend for themselves.

Sylveon seem to be unafraid of humans and most predators. They may keep an eye on a nearby carnivore but will seldom move to defend themselves. Even if they are attacked a single touch can entirely drain the enemy’s will to fight. At this point the sylveon can send the predator on their way or kill them at close range while they do nothing to resist. Many prey species try to stay near sylveon in hopes of avoiding their own predators. Sometimes this backfires when the sylveon incapacitates and kills them for food.

Much of a sylveon’s day is spent grazing on root vegetables, grasses, flowers, and low-hanging fruit. They only rarely eat meat. When they are not grazing they will usually nap in a sunbeam, seemingly oblivious to any dangers nearby. At night they have been known to walk into a clearing and stare at the moon for hours. Anything that interrupts their moon watching may be attacked. Around the new moon sylveon sleep at night and are more active during the day. Captive sylveon typically eat more around new moons. This is probably to make up for lost grazing hours during full moons.

Wild sylveon are typically very attached to their mate. The two rarely stray from each other. This mate is not always of the opposite sex. Sylveon are also quite willing to mate with other species as long as they are intelligent and willing to join them in their moon watching. Sylveon in relationships that make child-birthing impossible will often find other eevee or small mammals to adopt and raise as their own.

Most fairy-types ignore dragons. Dragons, in turn, ignore them. Sylveon are one of the few fairies that seem to be naturally hostile towards dragons. Even specimens that are reluctant battlers will gleefully attack dragons much larger than them.

Husbandry

Sylveon are primarily herbivorous. Half their diet should be made up of hay with another half composed of roots, tubers, legumes, mushrooms, flowers, and fruit. Meat should be given sparingly, once a week at most. Sylveon that do not frequently battle can be given meat once a month, ideally around the newmoon. Many captive sylveon have a sweet tooth and will happily eat baked goods, especially those with a cinnamon flavor. These make for good treats but should not be the core of the diet. Water should be provided every few hours. If the sylveon drinks all water provided it should be given more until it loses interest. Ideally a sylveon should be fed around 15% of their body weight per day around the new moon, dropping to less than 5% on the day of the full moon.

Sylveon can be easily litter trained by watching other pokémon doing so. If there are no other litter-trained pokémon on the team they can be taught through pictures or videos. Sylveon are usually eager to please and will quickly learn once they learn their trainer wants them to do so. Make sure that any litter provided to them is edible. Sylveon are habitual nibblers that will chew anything strange in their environment. They produce two types of feces, moist and dry. Sylveon will often eat the moist pellets. There is no health risk to them doing so but many trainers are uncomfortable with the idea. They can be trained not to eat their feces by spritzes of water when the behavior is observed.

The vast majority of sylveon despise pokéballs. They want to spend almost all of their time within sight of their trainer. Mated sylveon are a little less codependent but still dislike pokéballs. Excessive use is the fastest way to lose a sylveon’s favor. Because sylveon hate leaving their trainer’s sight and want to spend nights staring at the full moon they appreciate trainers who are willing to sleep outside for at least one week a month. Some specimens will accept their trainer sleeping in a room with a skylight or window with a good view of the moon. A minority will tolerate being outside with a good view of their trainer through a window.

On nights where the moon is not visible sylveon may be distressed. They will accept sleeping indoors with their trainer as long as they are let out every few hours to check for the moon’s return.

Sylveon are a clever species that loves new toys and environments. Unlike most clever pokémon they will not usually break things or touch objects their trainer does not want them to. They should still be provided with new toys on a monthly basis or whenever they begin to show signs of boredom. Baskets are excellent toys as they are a place to hide and rest that can also be nibbled on. Replace the basket when it becomes too worn down.

Most captive sylveon see their trainer as a bonded partner akin to a mate. This bond is not the same as that between mates. Sylveon are aware that the feelings are unreciprocated and will place different expectations on the trainer-pokémon relationship than they would with a mate. They will still want to spend a great deal of time around their trainer. They hate it when their trainer keeps secrets from them, even if it is to orchestrate a surprise party or gift. Sylveon that have a mate are less demanding but will still expect regular socialization.

Illness

Sylveon’s main health problems are gastrointestinal. If they refuse a regular feeding present them with a treat. If the treat is accepted but the food is refused there may be a buildup of gas in the GI tract. This can often be cured by putting the sylveon on top of a running washer or dryer and letting trapped gasses shake out. Be aware that sylveon can be quick to learn that refusing food can result in treats. Some will intentionally feign illness to receive a treat. If a sylveon has begun to do this then some meal refusals should randomly result in a trip to a veterinarian. The behavior will likely stop after a few visits.

If both the meal and treat are refused, assume that there is an emergency. Withdraw the sylveon and visit a veterinarian as soon as possible.

A more peculiar malady for sylveon is emotionally overload. Being in areas of heated emotions for a prolonged period can result in headaches, fatigue, and even a fever. This occurs most commonly in areas with large numbers of people. So long as the sylveon can retreat to a private place the issue is unlikely to occur. Be careful when taking a sylveon near funerals, sporting events, protests, or other events likely to invoke strong reactions from a large number of people.

Evolution

Eevee evolve into sylveon when they have been exposed to a great deal of fairy elemental energy. The easiest way to trigger this is to teach an eevee baby-doll eyes and have the pokémon use the move at least once a day while boosted by a Z-crystal. This requires having a Z-crystal and clearing the fairy-type trial. Frequent Z-crystal usage can also be dangerous for those with heart conditions.

Raising an eevee around multiple fairy-types is the second most reliable way to trigger the evolution. This has the downside of only being plausible for trainers with a fairy specialty. Thankfully sylveon can learn mystical fire and psyshock, making them a solid choice for fairy specialists.

Battle

Sylveon are strong, can wall attackers, and have a great supporting movepool. They can either take the offense with powerful moonblasts, supported by decent coverage options, or act as a cleric and tank. Options for clerics include wish, heal bell, reflect, light screen, and healing kiss. Sylveon can do their job at even the highest levels of competitive play. They remain one of the most popular fairies in even the highest levels of play.

They still have their share of weaknesses. The first is that while sylveon are strong and durable, they are not the strongest attackers or the most durable wall. They also compete with florges and togekiss for their niche as bulky fairy attackers.

Sylveon can sponge elemental hits well. They are physically frail. Some melee attackers can be shut down with a flick of a ribbon. Others are not so easily countered. Pokémon with blade-like appendages can make it too dangerous for a sylveon to try and send out a ribbon when their opponent makes contact. Some attackers, such as machamp, can put enough power into a punch to do serious damage in a single hit. Many of the strongest melee attackers are dragons and fighting-types that sylveon can punish, but if they have the speed to get in close they can turn the battle in their favor. Mineral pokémon are more difficult for sylveon to manipulate. Steel-types also have an elemental advantage. Melee steel attackers are the best counters to sylveon.

Finally, sylveon are quite slow. They are ranged attackers so this is not a debilitating weakness. It still means that they cannot easily dodge attacks or outrun dangerous opponents trying to get in close. This is less of a drawback than it could be as sylveon can tank most ranged elemental attacks. Getting close is also not ideal as sylveon can potentially drain their opponent’s will to fight with a touch and proceed to finish the battle at their own pace. Their lack of speed does preclude them from using their ribbons as an offensive weapon against all but the slowest of opponents.

Sylveon are excellent at defeating totems with their ribbons. If sylveon can touch the opponent they can often end the battle then and there. Most totems are slow and grounded. They are used to being able to take lots of attacks before going down. Those that have never fought a sylveon may not even know what they should be concerned about.

Trainer battles are harder. Most of the kahunas are experienced enough to know how to deal with sylveon – slowly and at range, or with a single powerful melee attack.

Sylveon trainers at the amateur level should choose whether they want to specialize on offense or utility. Offense-oriented trainers may want to save up for TMs for mystical fire and psyshock, sylveon’s best coverage options. Trainers hoping for a utility sylveon should figure out what roles they need filled and set about finding opportunities for their sylveon to learn the techniques.

Acquisition

Sylveon do not occur in the wild in Alola. Adoption and purchase opportunities are rare as sylveon tend to fare poorly when removed from their trainer. Adoptions are handled on a case-by-case basis.

Breeding

Sylveon tend to mate in the early spring. After a roughly fifty day pregnancy they will give birth to six to eight eevee. Both parents keep a close eye on their offspring for the first three months. Usually one parent will leave to graze or explore while the other keeps an eye on the eevee. Sylveon do not build dens or burrows. Those with young eevee may take shelter in tall grass for a time.

For sylveon mating is less about childrearing and attraction and more about companionship. Sylveon spend almost all of their time around their mates and grow distraught when they cannot find them. Most sylveon die shortly after their mate’s passing. Sylveon are the easiest to breed with other species so long as the mate is intelligent and willing to indulge the sylveon’s more eccentric habits.

Captive sylveon with a mate-like bond with their trainer will still pick a mate when they find one who can reciprocate their feelings. For the wellbeing of the sylveon both mates should be owned by the same trainer. The trainer will still be held in high regard and trusted to help take care of any of their offspring.

Relatives

Consult the Eevee entry for more information.

 

[Persephone]

This entry was commissioned by suscipepe.

Downloading from The Alola Pokédex Online Appendix . . .

Aromatisse (Spritzee)
Foetidalis boursededam

Overview

There is a legend in Scandinavia of a wicked queen. She used her magic and feminine wiles to seduce the king and seize control for herself. Her tyrannical reign was ended when a hero managed to trick her into permanently taking the form of a bird. The perfumes of spritzee were seen as evil, a means for women to overpower the sound minds of men. The stench of aromatisse was said to be the evil of perfume made plain.

The species found a much warmer reception in Kalos. Originally they were imported to produce perfumes for the masks of plague doctors, which were in turn fashioned after spritzee’s face. After the Black Death ended noble women began to carry spritzee around at high class parties as a form of perfume. Noble houses competed to raise the best smelling spritzee. The practice was not fully abandoned during the Revolution, although many spritzee were confiscated and used to make diluted perfumes for the masses. Revolutionary propaganda often contrasted the pleasant, noble spritzee with aromatisse. The latter supposedly represented the many problems of the country the nobles refused to address.

Now there are many ways to obtain perfume that do not involve raising temperamental birds. There is certainly no need to carry one around on one’s person for the sake of fragrance. Nevertheless the success of period dramas has led to a small revival in spritzee ownership.

Trainers who want a spritzee for the fragrance should be warned that aromatisse have much stronger odors that can be extremely unpleasant.

Physiology

Both stages are classified as pure fairy-types. Some taxonomists believe that spritzee should have a secondary flying-type. They are birds but have limited flight and next to no aerokinetic ability. The Department of Agriculture is unlikely to review their prior ruling.

Spritzee are small owls with dense pink plumage. Their wings are small but are capable of sustaining flight for short distances. They have long hooked beaks that can be used to tear bark or flesh. They have sensitive sight and hearing. Spritzee’s eyes are large and surrounded by long lashes to make them appear even larger. Despite their association with scents, spritzee do not have noses and have a very limited sense of smell.

Within their digestive system spritzee have a strange organ known as a scent pouch. The pouch combines various elements from the diet to create gasses with particular scents. In the wild they use their scent pouches to mimic the smell of nectar or decay to draw insects near. In captivity the diet can be manipulated to produce a scent desired by the trainer.

Aromatisse lose most of the functionality in their wings. Instead they have relatively long legs and a functional three-fingered hand at the end of the wings. Their ears are much larger than those of spritzee while their eyes remain proportionally large. The head and leg feathers are purple while the rest of the plumage remains pink. Their feathers are not designed for silent flight like other owls but instead provide warmth and warn predators not to attack.

Aromatisse have a much larger and more complex scent pouch. The simple pouch now contains multiple chambers that can produce and store up to four scents at once.

Aromatisse can grow to be three feet tall. They can weigh up to twenty pounds. Their wild lifespan is ten years. Captive specimens have lived for up to fifteen, but usually only live to five or six years of age.

Behavior

When threatened spritzee can empty their scent pouch in a spray of projectile vomit. The vomit is sticky and incredibly foul smelling. It can take weeks to wear off. Because of this spritzee and aromatisse have few natural predators. One of the predators they do have is snowl, a larger owl species. Like aromatisse, snowl have a very poor sense of smell and do not seem to notice anything unpleasant about their prey’s defense mechanism.

Aromatisse and spritzee live in burrows. They are incapable of burrowing. When they can find an abandoned burrow they will move in to occupy it. If they cannot find one they will vomit into a rodent’s burrow. Rodents usually have very sensitive noses and will abandon a burrow once it is filled with an unpleasant stench.

Both stages are most active at night. Spritzee will fly up to a perch to watch the world beneath them. When they see good prey, large insects or small mammals, they will fly down to catch and kill it. If this fails they can use their excellent sense of hearing to detect insects moving underneath a tree’s bark. They can then pry away the bark and eat the insect.

Aromatisse often eat plants or decaying flesh to fill their scent pouch. They can waft out either smell to attract frugivorous insects or decomposers. Occasionally this backfires and attracts a carnivore interested in scavenging.

To further increase their odds of a successful hunt, spritzee and aromatisse collect manure and use it to line their burrows. They don’t mind the scent and the manure attracts insects that can be hunted without leaving the burrow.

Both stages are comfortable around humans. They can be found living in airports, public parks, and golf courses. The owners of these areas are often at odds with the aromatisse living on the property. Thankfully they can be relocated with few repercussions.

Husbandry

Unlike most owls, aromatisse and spritzee can drink water. A pan of water should be available for them whenever possible.

Spritzee and aromatisse diets can be specialized to create specific scents. Consult specialist literature for more information. Many of these diets can be dangerous for the pokémon and should only be undertaken with veterinary supervision.

The core of the pokémon’s diet at both stages should be insects. Large insects presented whole are ideal, but commercial blends are serviceable. Fruit and raw meat can make up 10 to 30% of the diet. More food should be provided in the fall as the pokémon instinctively bulks up for the winter.

Both stages are easily trained to use a litter pan or box. Trainers should be aware that aromatisse are prone to staking out teammate’s litter boxes and pans in hopes of collecting dung. They will then move this into tight spaces where it can be difficult to find.

Spritzee are generally easily socialized. Most have a very high tolerance for being handled. Aromatisse are equally interested in humans but humans tend not to be as interested in them.

Aromatisse should have a burrow. This should be a tunnel, container, or hollow just big enough for the pokémon to fit into. It should also be easily accessible for cleaning as it is where the pokémon will take most collected dung.

The most difficult part of raising aromatisse is their scent. They have an overpowering odor that often reeks of rotting flesh. Many aromatisse trainers eventually lose all or part of their sense of smell. Teammates with sensitive noses will hate aromatisse. Inorganic species and those with weak sense of smell make the best teammates.

Aromatisse love enrichment objects they can shred with their talons. Many trainers think that novel scents will make for good enrichment but this is not the case. Their limited sense of smell and strong odors mean that aromatisse rarely pay much attention to other scents in their environment. Most aromatisse are irrationally afraid of wheels. Toys with wheels should not be provided.

Trainers who want a spritzee but not an aromatisse should reconsider obtaining a spritzee at all. Aromatisse cannot be released in Alola and few shelters will accept them. It is often illegal to own an aromatisse within city limits. Konikoni bans Aromatisse from being outside their ball within the city.

Illness

The most common ailment for the line in Alola is overheating. Aromatisse are originally from the sub-Arctic. Even the domesticated aromatisse have thick plumage designed to keep them warm. The ideal temperature range for a domesticated aromatisse is 32 to 80 degrees. Lowland areas routinely cause them to overheat. An overheating specimen will gape with its beak wide open and occasionally ruffle its feathers. Immediately withdraw the specimen or move it into a cooler area.

Salmonella is another occasional problem for aromatisse that usually occurs after contact with another infected bird. Signs of salmonella include bloodshot eyes and ruffled feathers. With immediate treatment the pokémon’s life can be saved. Do not touch an infected bird as the bacteria can infect humans.

General signs of stress include dilated pupils, weak grip, and whines.

Evolution

Spritzee naturally evolve into aromatisse around five years of age. Battle can reduce this to three years. The species has been selectively bred to delay evolution as spritzee have weaker and more palatable scents. The formal demarcation line between the two stages is the development of a pseudo hand.

Battle

Aromatisse have not found a niche in competitive battling. Their main gimmick, overpowering scent, is less effective against very well trained pokémon. Without accounting for scent tactics the pokémon is generally inferior to clefable, sylveon, and the other most common fairies.

On the island challenge aromatisse can be quite useful. Few pokémon trained by amateurs will want to attack an aromatisse and risk being coated in vomit. They are also decently bulky and can be taught to use nasty plot and trick room to make themselves stronger and faster. Unfortunately, their scent is usually ineffective against poison and steel types.

Spritzee‘s bones are sturdier than most birds. Their plumage and bones make them reasonably durable for a small pokémon. Some specially bred spritzee can learn wish to keep themselves healthy. They are also reasonably powerful special attackers, especially after a nasty plot or calm mind boost. This makes them useful tanks in the early stages of the island challenge.

Acquisition

Spritzee can be purchased or adopted with a Class II license. Aromatisse can be purchased or adopted with a Class III license. There are not currently any wild populations of either in Alola. They can be purchased from some specialty breeders and importers, especially in Heahea and Malie.

Breeding

Wild males approach unpaired females and perform an elaborate mating dance. The female will evaluate the male’s plumage, dancing, scent, and size. If she approves she will dance along and accompany him to his burrow. After evaluating it she will either reject the male and leave or move in as his mate. Some males have two females as mates.

Aromatisse lay one egg at a time in early March. She will continue to lay one egg every day until a clutch of nine is formed. Females and males alternate incubation and hunting duties. Once the eggs hatch the female spends most of her time watching over her offspring while the male gathers food and manure. After four weeks the spritzee begin to take short trips out of the burrow. They can fly around the eight week mark. After twelve weeks the parents kick them out of the nest.

Sometimes couples will separate after their spritzee leave the burrow. Usually they remain together throughout the year.

Captive breeding usually takes place in rural areas. Breeders tend to use small aviaries with artificial burrows for raising their aromatisse. Diets are carefully controlled to reduce odor. As long as enough food is provided the male will stay in the burrow with his mate and little extra space will be required.

After twelve weeks the spritzee are collected and evaluated. The ones that gain the best scent are retained for future breeding. The rest are sold.

Relatives

The domesticated aromatisse was created in 13th Century Kalos. It is generally smaller, less pungent, and more sociable than it’s wild counterpart (F. gunnhild).

There are several breeds of the domesticated spritzee that focus on different diets for different scents. Some are capable of eating more fruit than other spritzee, making them smell like plants. One breed was crossbred to be able to eat large quantities of mint. There have been recent attempts to crossbreed aromatisse and decidueye to obtain a scent akin to pine needles. Early results are mixed. The health of these breeds tends to be worse than that of baseline domesticated specimens.

 

[Persephone]

Also commissioned by suscipepe.

Downloading from The Alola Pokédex Online Appendix . . .

Nidoran (Nidorina, Nidoqueen | Nidorino, Nidoking)
Cantorpice camporex

Overview

The African savannahs are home to some of the most iconic pokémon species. Predators such as pyroar, thermpent, garchomp, and sahellion stalk the plains. Large prey species have become incredibly powerful to deal with these predators. Examples include southern copperajah, rhydon, girafarig, plains hippowdon, cape tauros, nidoking, and nidoqueen. Most of these are not well suited for the average trainer by virtue of being too big, too aggressive, or both. The nidoran line are the most docile of the great savannah herbivores. They can become phenomenally powerful but are generally well behaved so long as evolution is avoided or handled properly. It is perhaps unsurprising that a few would eventually be imported to Alola as exotic pets, only to escape and establish themselves in eastern Ula’Ula.

The main problem when raising nidoran is their dangerous venom. A sting can be fatal if untreated. Nidoran are usually good at controlling their spines, but a sudden surprise during a grooming session can become an emergency. Antivenom is commercially available, if expensive. It also requires constant refrigeration and replacement at least once every three months.

Trainers willing to run the risk of an accidental sting may find nidoran to be powerful, friendly, and intelligent partners.

Physiology

Nidoran, nidorino, and nidorina are classified as pure poison-types. Nidoking and nidoqueen are classified as dual poison- and ground-types. There is some dispute as to the classification of nidorino, nidorina, and their evolutions. They possess extraordinary strength and bravery like a Class II fighting type. However, nidoqueen and nidoking have potent terrakinesis, making a ground-typing more justified. There is a general reluctance to give three stages of the line three different typings.

Nidoran are stout quadrupeds. They have large incisors, whiskers, and ears like rodents. Despite the resemblance, nidoran’s closest relatives are actually copperajah and donphan. The males typically have purple fur and pink skin while the females have teal fur and grey skin. Females have larger whiskers and a more sensitive sense of smell. Males have more muscles around their ears to help move the ears to almost any angle. Their ears are also slightly larger. Between the two adaptations they have a better sense of hearing than the female. They can also flap their ears to cool them down on hot days. Nidoran have incomplete thermoregulation and are unable to remain active in extremely hot and cold temperatures.

The most potent of nidoran’s adaptations is their venom. Both sexes have horns on their head that can inject a formidable hemotoxin. The venom released in a single scratch can kill a human child or severely injure an adult male. Their body is lined in quills of modified hair that can also inject smaller amounts of venom. Not every prick of a quill injects venom. Unless a quill wound is accompanied by intense pain it is not necessary to inject antivenom.

Nidorina’s ears have grown to the same proportional size and complexity as a male nidoran. Their forehead horn atrophies into a mere stub that cannot secrete venom. In exchange several clusters of quills on the back grow longer and connect to stronger venom glands. The muscles in their arms and legs strengthen and their claws grow longer and sharper. Nidorina prefer to deal with smaller attackers with brute strength alone, only using venom to deter foes much larger than them.

The pokémon’s vocal chords also become far more complex as they grow. Nidorina can create a variety of sounds in and above the pitches that humans can hear. Their language often sounds like singing. All stages and sexes sing, but nidorina and nidoqueen have the most diverse vocal chords and are the most prolific singers. Nidoran language is believed to have syntax, pronouns, and potentially adverbs. Multiple pokémon singing together can create an ultrasonic pattern that unnerves nearby pokémon and humans.

Nidorino gain a longer and harder horn. Their venom is ordinarily less potent than that of a nidoran but when adrenaline begins to flow their venom becomes stronger. Nidorino’s neck and leg muscles strengthen to allow for charging opponents and burying their horn into their hide. The resulting stab wound and venom injection can take down some of the largest threats on the savannah. Nidorino also gain a ridge of bony spikes on their back. These spikes do not contain venom but do make it harder to bite down on the pokémon. Nidorino’s quills are still venomous, but not nearly as much as their horn. The pokémon’s upper incisors grow out to become small tusks.

Nidoqueen are much taller and bulkier pokémon than nidorina. They still have quills on their back. The quills on the front have been replaced with layers of armor formed from bone plates covered by thick hide. Nidoqueen’s bones are sturdy enough to withstand pyroar bites. The armor around their groin and chest is stronger than steel. A ridge of bone spines grows along the back. The area immediately around the ridge is free of quills. A nidoqueen can put an unruly nidoran on their back and move the spines so that they hold the baby in place while the nidoqueen goes about her business. If a nidoqueen must fight they prefer to rely on tackles and terrakinesis.

Nidoking’s horns are even larger than those of a nidorino. They can be charged up with elemental energy to perform horn drill attacks capable of breaking diamonds and penetrating any armor. Their tail has grown long and powerful enough to break a copperajah’s leg in a single swing. While their hide is less durable than a nidoqueen’s, a nidoking is still capable of shrugging off low caliber gunshots without flinching. Their arms are strong enough that they can grapple with a rhydon or garchomp.

Nidorino and nidorina that do not evolve live up to ten years in the wild or twenty in captivity. Nidoking and nidoqueen can live for thirty years in the wild or fifty in captivity. When standing bipedally nidoking are about five feet tall. They typically weigh three to four hundred pounds. Nidoqueen are usually around six feet tall when standing bipedally. They typically weigh about five hundred pounds.

Behavior

Nidoran live in clans that typically consist of a nidoqueen, a nidoking, one to two dozen nidorina and nidorina, and another twenty to forty nidoran. The nidoking and nidoqueen maintain an elaborate burrow system for the clan. There are specialized latrine, nursery, sleeping, and socializing chambers. Most species with large burrow networks have multiple exits to facilitate escape. Nidoran’s only has one. The nidoqueen can usually be found guarding the entrance during the day and night.

Nidoran are most active around dusk and dawn when their incomplete thermoregulation is less of a hindrance. The nidoran scatter out to forage while the nidoking and nidoqueen keep watch over them. Smaller groups of nidoran are supervised by nidorino and nidorina that can defend the nidoran from mid-size predators. The largest predators are dealt with by the nidoking and/or nidoqueen.

Nidoran, nidorino, and nidorina eat tubers, roots, grasses, and other vegetation that can be found on the ground. Nidoqueen and nidoking eat more leaves, fruits, and bark. Their legs allow them to stand upright more easily to access higher food. When this fails they can simply knock down trees. Sometimes particularly abundant fruit trees will be toppled for the smaller members of the clan to feed on.

Aside from the nidoking and nidoqueen, nidoran clans are rather egalitarian. Smaller cliques tend to form within the clan where different nidoran, nidorina, and nidorino associate primarily within the clique. Recent research has revealed that these are often family groups where a pair of nidorino and nidorina stays close to their offspring and siblings. If one clique begins to bully another the nidoqueen will usually step in and chastise the aggressors. The family of the nidoqueen and nidoking may receive some preferential treatment when sleeping chambers are allocated. The research is inconclusive on this point as observing the inside of a nidoran burrow is extremely difficult.

On days that are warm but not hot nidoran have been observed sleeping in heaps under the sunlight. The nidoqueen or nidoking will keep watch over the rest as they sleep.

Nidoran communicate with each other primarily through song. There is some evidence that nidoran have individual names. Males sing more than females and older specimens more than younger ones. The nidoking sings the most. The nidoqueen is usually the second most vocal individual in the clan. Her call sign appears to be used more often by other clan members than the nidoking’s.

The nidoking and nidoqueen seldom have children of their own as it would take away from time spent looking after the entire clan. Nidorina and nidorino do most of the breeding and child rearing. The nidoqueen occasionally steps in to help first-time parents or raise orphaned nidoran.

Older mated males begin to search for meteorites imbued with enough energy to trigger evolution. He will use the first he finds on himself. Unpaired nidoking tend to form small clans of their own. These clans are extremely territorial of known meteorite locations and will fight and kill herbivorous pokémon and humans who approach. The government of Zululand regularly declares culls of bachelor nidoking clans.

When a nidoking finds a second meteorite he returns to his original clan and gifts it to his mate. Following her evolution the new nidoking and nidoqueen will challenge the existing ones. If the new pair are defeated in battle they will be forced out of the clan. Their immediate family will often follow them and form the foundation of a new clan. If the new pair are victorious, the old nidoking will be slain. The old nidoqueen may either be slain, exiled, or allowed to stick around to help take care of newborn nidoran. If either the nidoking or nidoqueen has already died when they are challenged the remaining one will usually cede power voluntarily and assist the new reigning couple.

Husbandry

Nidoran are highly social creatures. If raised alone they will demand a great deal of their trainer and teammates’ time. They expect to be groomed and will in turn attempt to groom allies, including their trainer. Nidoran grooming can be dangerous due to their venom. Thick handling gloves are recommended. Trainers are strongly recommended to raise a male and female nidoran together. This will reduce the pokémon’s anxiety and codependency on their trainer and other pokémon. Some trainers refuse to raise two nidoran together as it reduces the bond the pokémon has with its trainer. Any trainer who wants to raise a single nidoran should accept that they will have to play with their pokémon every morning and evening and cuddle with the nidoran most nights. This requires wearing handling costumes at night. A pair of nidoran will groom, play, and cuddle with each other.

A pair of nidoran raised together will often see their trainer as a nidoking or nidoqueen. They are a powerful protector and authority figure who will step in to help them when needed but will otherwise keep their distance. This requires the trainer to actually provide for and protect their pokémon. Serious battle injuries will dramatically undercut the pokémon’s faith in their trainer. Nidorino and nidorina are a bit more independent and have a higher tolerance for battle injuries. They will also expect more personally attention from their trainer than nidorina and nidorino do. Battle coaching can satisfy some of this need. Grooming and play can fill the rest.

Nidoking and nidoqueen will often become protective of their trainer and teammates. The nidoqueen will take on a nurturing role. The nidoking will become aggressive when he believes his trainer or team are threatened. Nidoking that were born in captivity will usually understand the concept of trainer battles and will not become hostile if his teammates sustain minor injuries.

All but the final stages of the line should be fed a mix of vegetables, seeds, and hay with fruit given as an occasional treat. Nidoking and nidoqueen should be fed a mix of bark, leaves, vegetables, twigs, fruits, nuts, and flowers. Individuals may have preferences for different foods. These can be allowed to make up a greater share of the diet so long as all necessary nutrients are provided. All stages expect to be fed around dusk and dawn.

It is easy to housebreak all stages as they are used to having latrine chambers in their burrow complex. Enclosed litter boxes are greatly preferred. It is usually impractical to have an enclosed litterbox for nidoking and nidoqueen. They can be taught to use a litter pan instead. Nidoran waste, or hyaceum, is an ingredient in some traditional medicines and perfumes. Trainers can recoup some of the cost of raising the pokémon by selling the hyaceum.

Nidoking and nidoqueen love to burrow. Many trainers have had their home’s foundation cracked when their pokémon decided to expand the home with a series of tunnels and chambers underneath it. Having a dedicated burrowing area some distance from the home helps. It may also be worth hiring a translation service to ensure that the pokémon knows not to damage buildings’ foundations.

Illness

Nidoran are very hardy and not prone to illness. They are notable carriers of leishmaniasis, a parasite that can cause skin sores or organ damage in humans. Newly acquired nidoran should be tested for the parasite.

Castration is usually a serious consideration for highly aggressive male pokémon that will not be bred. Nidoking is one of the rare cases where castration does not decrease aggression. The opposite may be true instead as the pokémon will see itself as wounded and become more concerned with displays of strength to deter real or imagined attackers.

Evolution

Nidoran naturally evolve into nidorino or nidorina after about three years. In captivity this process can be significantly shorted. Sexual maturity is the formal demarcation line between nidoran and their evolutions.

Nidorino and nidorina can be evolved by certain meteorites infused with elemental energy. These can be purchased from specialty mineral stores. Some high end pokémon goods stores will also be able to obtain them with a few days’ notice. The meteorites, commonly refused to as ‘moon stones’ in the industry, can be very expensive. Trainers may need to spend upwards of five or even ten thousand dollars to obtain one. Nidorino have some ability to sense nearby moon stones and may be able to excavate one themselves. Always consult with the property owner before digging.

The truly difficult part of evolution is not the process itself, rather it is dealing with the aftermath. Nidoqueen and nidoking are not used to submitting to anyone. A trainer who raised them for some time and then provided a moon stone will receive some level of deference. It is strongly recommended that the nidorina and nidorino not be evolved at once. Upon evolution the pokémon will challenge its trainer to a battle. If defeated by another teammate the nidoking will be much more submissive. If victorious they will be rebellious and often violent until the trainer manages to defeat them in battle.

This situation can be avoided by not evolving both a nidorino and nidorina at the same time. If the nidorino is evolved first the nidoking will not attempt to challenge their trainer’s authority until their mate has also evolved. Trainers should be careful not to evolve the nidorina as well until they have another pair of pokémon that can defeat the two in battle.

Evolving the nidorina first can lead to the male becoming somewhat standoffish with the trainer as this dynamic is never seen in nature. The nidorino can confuse the trainer as a rival for his mate’s affections. If the nidorino is later evolved he will remain wary of the trainer but usually not ask for a proving battle. This is usually the safest option.

Trainers only raising a nidorino or nidorina without a mate will not usually experience behavioral problems following evolution.

Battle

Nidoking is a mainstay in international competitive battling. They are ferociously strong, highly venomous, and more than willing to do battle. Nidoking are usually used as wallbreakers that can sue their immense strength and middling speed to take out slow-but-durable opponents. Nidoking’s earthquake and earth power attacks are also especially effective against rock and steel types, the premier physical walls of most circuits. Nidoking and nidoqueen also have deep and varied elemental wells that can be used alongside their physical power. Ice beam can be used to take out flying opponents while flamethrower can handle magnezone and avalugg.

Nidoqueen are seen less than their male counterparts but are still very effective. They have about half the physical strength of nidoking and a shallower elemental well. In exchange they are much more durable. Nidoqueen typically act as support pokémon that set up toxic spikes and stealth rocks. When they are done setting hazards they can go on the offense.

Nidorino and male nidoran are naturally aggressive in combat and prefer to be proactive. They will charge opponents in the hopes of stinging them with their horn or doing damage with their claws. Like their evolution, nidorino and nidoran have relatively deep elemental wells. Trainers with the money to afford TMs may find ice beam useful as it can handle fliers that ordinarily can stay out of reach of the grounded pokémon.

Nidorina and female nidoran are naturally cautious and prefer to stay on the defense. Female nidoran can scratch and stab opponents that get close. Nidorina have more strength and often try to slash or grapple with enemies.

None of the lower stages possess the terrakinesis of nidoking and nidoqueen. This can leave them unable to seriously harm the rock and steel-types that their evolutions can easily take down. The lower stages work best as scrappers that can tank a hit if needed. They may also get more use out of setting toxic spikes.

The real weapon of the lower stages is their venom. It can devastate most organic opponents. Some species may even be killed outright. Professionals can afford to keep enough antivenom around to heal injured opponents. Casual trainers usually cannot. This makes venom prohibitively expensive for all but the most serious of fights.

Acquisition

Wild specimens can be found in eastern Ula’Ula, particularly on Route 12. Nidoran, nidorino, and nidorina can be obtained with a Class III license. Nidoking and nidoqueen can be obtained with a Class IV license. Nidorino and nidorina can usually be captured without the nidoking or nidoqueen interceding. Some nidorino are eager to go with a trainer for the greater chance of evolving. Nidoran capture usually requires a display of strength to the nidoking or nidoqueen. Outright victory is not required, but at least some competency must be shown. Capturing the nidoking or nidoqueen will require defeating them. Even then the pokémon might be angry and attempt to return to its clan. For this reason capture is not recommended.

Breeding

In the wild most breeding is done by pairs of nidorino and nidorina. After a seven-month pregnancy the nidorina will give birth to two offspring. Related females assist in childrearing. The nidoran do not leave the burrow until they are nearly two months old. They do not leave their mother’s side for another two to three months.

Nidoking and nidoqueen remain fertile. In the wild they usually do not reproduce as it would distract them from their duties. Captive nidoking and nidoqueen do not have these responsibilities and have been known to reproduce. The nidoqueen will handle most of the childrearing but appreciates assistance from her trainer. Nidoking may be willing to watch the offspring as his mate sleeps. Nidoqueen should not be used in battle while pregnant or nursing. Pokéball use is not recommended for nidoran until they are four months old. The nidoran’s parents can get nervous when they cannot see their children. For nidorino and nidorina this can be dealt with easily enough. A nervous nidoking can destroy a building.

Interspecies breeding is difficult but not impossible. Known crosses include copperajah, donphan, heatmor, and slaking. There are unverified reports of crossbreeding with the six-eyed raticate. Cross breeding is easiest in captivity. Nidoking and nidoqueen are far more likely to crossbreed than nidorino and nidorina.

Relatives

Nidoran are naturally only found in Zululand and Namibia. Captive populations have escaped and begun breeding around the world. Once established they can become very difficult to deal with due to their venom and the raw power of nidoking and nidoqueen. Some countries have intentionally introduced them to certain areas as a tourist attraction or potential military asset. The government of Anahuac introduced several clans of nidoking to provinces near the border with the United States. The intention was that the nidoking and nidoqueen would react poorly to large military convoys passing through their territory and might slow down any invading army. The strategy’s effectiveness has yet to be seen.

 

[Persephone]

This entry was commissioned by langylee.

Weavile (Sneasel)
Manusacuta kinney

Overview

Weavile are not native to Alola. The closest genetic relative to the Alolan weavile lives in Canada. Humans did not bring them to the islands. They did not swim or fly across the oceans. Instead, they came through wormholes from worlds unknown.

The Alolan weavile’s genome reveals a genetic bottleneck that occurred between 900 and 1200 CE. Local legends say that after a great crack appeared in the sky above Mauna Lanakila the kahuna of Ula’Ula went to investigate. On that trip they found the first recorded weavile. Curiously, another population of weavile was documented appearing in Sinnoh c. 1890 during a time of frequent wormhole appearances in the region. The earliest preserved specimens of the original Sinnohan weavile have very similar genomes to the Alolan weavile. Interbreeding with Sinnoh’s sneasler population has since led to speciation between the Alolan and Sinnohan weavile.

Outside of their strange origins, weavile have many traits that make them good companions. Weavile are naturally hierarchical and will quickly learn to obey their trainer. They are also intelligent and curious pokémon. This makes them easy to train and willing to travel to see new things. Weavile are also incredibly powerful pokémon with their high speed, clever tactics, and sharp claws. Finally, weavile have a higher heat tolerance than most ice-types in Alola.

There are two drawbacks to weavile ownership. They are obsessive scent markers like most mustelids. Unlike most mustelids, weavile also insist on leaving a unique pattern of scratch marks on trees, rocks, and furniture. This behavior can be discouraged, but more often than not it will just lead to the pokémon becoming more discrete when marking. The second barrier is that sneasel capture is effectively banned for anyone who has not yet cleared all four grand trials.

Trainers that can get their hands on their own sneasel are likely to find it to be an intriguing and powerful companion, albeit one that must be watched closely around wooden furniture.

Physiology

Weavile and sneasel are both classified as ice- and dark-types. The ruling is not disputed.

Sneasel are mustelids with unusually long legs that allow them to run quickly, even bipedally. The limbs also assist in climbing. Sneasel have a short but dense layer of black fur over almost their entire body. Ovular yellow markings are found on both the forehead and chest. The tail and left ear are red. Sneasel do not naturally grow feathers. Instead, they steal some from killed birds or pilfered nests and use their thick saliva to bind it to their ear or hindquarters. The saliva is then frozen in place by cryokinesis. The saliva can be partially unfrozen and refrozen to make the feathers move. As a result of this practice sneasel have remarkable control of the temperature within one to two inches of their body.

Sneasel’s most remarkable feature is their claws. Two of the fingers on sneasel’s front paws have very long and sharp claws at the end. The sharpest part of these claws is the middle, not the tip. Sneasel can partially retract these claws into keratin sheathes so that only the relatively dull tip extends out of the sheathe. The claw fingers can also be raised up when the other three fingers are being used to manipulate objects. The back paws have five toes. The shortest ends in a long, sharp claw that can be used for disemboweling opponents with kicks. The other four toes are longer and used for balance. The claws can be charged with elemental energy to make them even sharper. Ice energy can result in instant frostbite around a wound site. This causes more pain to the target while increasing the time it takes to bleed out. Lost blood is lost nutrition so it is in the pokémon’s interest to kill with precise strikes to the neck rather than a myriad of strikes around the body.

Weavile retain many of the same characteristics as their preevolution. Their legs are comparatively shorter and they are a little stockier. The yellow oval on the chest fades with age. Weavile retain the same claw configuration as sneasel, but now the nails on the other toes have grown longer. Weavile grow a mane of red fur around their necks as they age. They also build more elaborate feather on forehead and tucked behind the ears and beside the tail. The crests of males are usually more elaborate than those of females.

Alolan weavile are about 3’ tall when standing upright, excluding the crest. They can weigh up to fifty pounds but typically weigh around thirty. Weavile typically live for around ten years in the wild. Captive specimens typically live for twenty to twenty-five years.

Behavior

Weavile typically live in fesnyngs of four to five individuals. Typically, the fesnyg is composed of one set of sisters and one set of brothers. The strongest brother will typically become the de facto leader, although females can and will leave the group if they dislike his leadership. This usually results in the remaining brothers turning on the former leader and demoting him from his position.

Weavile do not build permanent homes. Instead, they typically take refuge in trees or on top of boulders at night. During particularly severe storms they may burrow under the snow to rest. Home ranges are typically about fifty square miles. Weavile are known for their elaborate markings on trees and boulders around their home range. Every individual has a unique personal marker. The other markings have crude meanings such as “danger,” “water,” and “good prey” to give notes about the area.

When hunting in groups weavile can bring down almost any other pokémon on Lanakila. Vulpix and drampa hunts are the most difficult hunts. When hunting vulpix one or two weavile distracts the mother. The rest use sharp ice shard attacks to wound or kill the vulpix hiding in the snow or rush in and grab one before running away. This is an extremely dangerous task for whichever weavile is trying to distract a powerful fairy-type. Fortunately for weavile, ninetales do not usually hunt down and avenge the killers of vulpix that have not yet grown a second tail. Drampa hunts also require one weavile to keep the pokémon distracted while others rush in to land a hit on drampa’s long neck. Both hunts are best done during snowstorms at night when it is hardest for the defender to land a hit on the attacker.

Most of weavile’s hunts are aimed at crabrawler, absol, sandshrew, or sandslash. These hunts are far less dangerous. Sandshrew and even sandslash can be flipped over and stabbed in their vulnerable stomachs.

Weavile will also often move to lower elevations for a day to hunt birds, especially oricorio. The red feathers of oricorio are prized as they do not need to regularly be coated in blood to keep their color. Weavile also prefer to hunt for eggs. One will keep the parents distracted while the others rush the nest and gather up the eggs. weavile enjoy using their claws to break a hole into the egg before drinking the yolk.

Sneasel typically live in groups of brothers or sisters. They strongly prefer to target babies or eggs to adult pokémon. Sandshrew, the easiest prey pokémon regularly found above the tree line, have armor strong enough that sneasel can break their claws on it. Sneasel regularly take nighttime trips to the base of the mountain where prey is more abundant. Their preferred prey on these trips are birds and yungoos. Once a yungoos is tracked down it can be killed while it sleeps. Birds can be scared away from their nests so their eggs can be stolen.

Sneasel’s reputation as egg thieves has led to persecution from breeders and poultry farmers who despise the loss of their eggs. Governor Richard Morris, an avid birdwatcher, once called for the culling of any sneasel or weavile spotted within the meadows of Nohoalli National Monument and Preserve. The National Park Service rejected this proposal.

Husbandry

Sneasel and weavile are relatively social but do not require the presence of conspecifics to meet their social needs. This makes them well-suited for being a trainer’s pokémon. Their diet is also fairly basic: about two-thirds of the diet can be made up of dry feline mix food with the rest coming from eggs and frozen or raw meat. Water should be made available whenever possible, especially if the pokémon must be active during the day.

Weavile have been known to cache food for future use. On Mauna Lanakila the cold temperatures preserve the food. At lower altitudes it will quickly rot. The pokémon should be watched while it eats in case it tries to cache. Some specimens can be taught to cache uneaten food in a refrigerator. This can be dangerous as the weavile may learn to cut through other refrigerators to retrieve ‘cached’ food within them.

Both stages are possible to housebreak or train to urinate and defecate outside. Doing so requires regular reinforcement but can be done in a matter of weeks. It is much more difficult to keep the pokémon from marking wooden and stone objects with their claws. Home furniture should ideally be sparse and made of metal or plastic. When in urban areas the pokémon should be closely monitored and withdrawn if it begins to mark something not owned by the trainer. Their markings are at least shallow so in most areas it is legal for them to mark trees and rocks. Dedicated scratching posts can help reduce this behavior. Some specimens will allow their trainer to help them sharpen the middle portion of their claws. This may reduce scratching. Even if it does not it increases the bond between trainer and pokémon.

Weavile are ice-types. Most of their excursions to sea level are done at night. They can only tolerate Alolan daytime temperatures for a few hours before becoming overwhelmed. Misters and fans can help with this problem. Still, trainers are best off letting their pokémon be active at night and sleep in their ball during the day. Habitat and stasis balls are equally tolerated by most specimens.

As intelligent pokémon, weavile will need frequent enrichment. This can take the form of new rubber balls to tackle and slash, toys with new scents and tastes, rudimentary puzzles and games, or arts and crafts. Weavile can be taught to paint. They will most often use this to paint any feathers they find red. Paint usually lasts longer and has less of a scent than blood, making it a better alternative for coating feathers. Some weavile come to enjoy painting their other toys and even the walls or their trainer red.

Because the dominant weavile usually has the biggest and most red feathers, frequently wearing red clothing is a good way to earn a weavile’s respect. Clothing with red feathers or hanging red straps or belts is even better. Providing weavile with their own feathers, especially long or red ones, will be met with gratitude.

Birds make poor teammates for weavile as the pokémon may decide to kill one for the feathers. Chansey and blissey are also bad teammates as the weavile will constantly try to steal and eat their egg. Exeggcute are biologically closer to seeds than eggs but weavile will still try to kill and eat them.

Illness

Weavile are susceptible to rabies and canine distemper. Vaccination against both diseases is required within the first month of capture.

Many illnesses manifest in the excrement. Consult a veterinarian if a specimen suddenly develops diarrhea, constipation, or a change in the color or texture of their feces without any corresponding change in diet.

General lethargy, even at night, can be a symptom of insulinoma. The illness is a sharp drop in blood sugar levels. If unchecked it can lead to seizures, strokes, comas, and death. Lethargy after a large meal or hard battle is normal and not a sign of concern. If it persists for more than one day consult a veterinarian.

Broken claws are the most common ailment for sneasel and one of the most common for battling weavile. Claws will occasionally break from strikes against hard materials or from outside attacks on the claws. As long as the sheathe is unharmed the claw will regenerate over the coarse of days to weeks, depending on the severity of the break. Do not battle with the pokémon during this time and increase the amount of eggs and meat in their diet.

Evolution

Sneasel gradually evolve into weavile over time. The formal demarcation is sexual maturity. Sneasel will begin to place feathers on their forehead and display to prospective mates. This usually occurs around two years of age in the wild or eighteen months in captivity.

Battle

Weavile are some of the premier physical glass cannons in competitive battling leagues. The Alolan weavile is the fastest and most agile, often utilizing jumps and flips to strike opponents with the claw on their foot. Weavile has a sprinting speed of eighty miles an hour and can easily cross battlefields and dodge attacks. Then they can use their sharp claws to inflict serious damage on most organic opponents. Even birds that can fly over weavile’s melee attacks can be brought down to earth by ice shard barrages.

Weavile match up very well against most phantom pokémon given their dark typing. Weavile can charge their claws with dark energy to create devastating night slashes. The attack is one of their favorites in the wild and is extremely potent at dispatching ghosts and true psychics.

Mineral pokémon usually have less sensitive weak points and harder bodies. Weavile also have very little in the way of defenses against the area of effect attacks such as earthquake that mineral pokémon often know.

The best counter to weavile is magnezone. The pokémon can only be hurt by weavile’s comparatively weak ice shards and has durable enough armor to withstand them. It can also use homing attacks such as magnet bomb and shock wave to ignore weavile’s agility. Even if weavile did get airborne it would still struggle to bypass magnezone’s metal armor. Other flying mineral pokémon can be similarly effective.

Machamp is another notable counter to weavile. However fast weavile move and punch, machamp can punch faster. A weavile that gets anywhere close to machamp will be struck down in one barrage of blows. Fighting-types in general match up well against weavile due to their expertise in melee battles. Lucario is another notable counter to weavile as their homing aura spheres, metallic armor, and good instincts can let them do more damage to weavile than they take in turn.

A general rule is that if weavile is not attacking it is losing. Pokémon that can outspeed it and attack from afar are good counters. Water-types that know surf can create near unavoidable area of effect attacks. Field control can decrease weavile’s speed and make it harder for them to dodge attacks.

The Canadian weavile is stronger and more durable but sees less use than the lighter European, Alolan, and Japanese species. Even the Canadian weavile struggles to take hits from the sort of pokémon used on the competitive battling circuits. Alolan weavile are unique among the species for having two claws on each hand and one on each foot. A third front claw is usually redundant since the pokémon has two more. A hind claw allows for attacks against pokémon who knock the weavile into the air or sneak up behind it. The European and Japanese weavile are more common and easier to obtain, but fans of the species maintain that the Alolan species is the most effective.

On the island challenge weavile have relatively few counters. Few pokémon will outspeed it or be able to take more than a handful of strikes from their claws. Alola has many water types but few amateur pokémon will know surf. Mineral pokémon are comparatively rare. Weavile might struggle against Hala and Olivia if they are fought last, but they are traditionally the first two kahunas fought.

Sneasel is significantly less impressive. Their claws are shorter, duller, and less easily infused with elemental energy. They prefer to use ambush strategies or theft to get their food in favor of high-speed brawls with their prey. Swords dance can be a useful move for boosting a sneasel’s ability to do damage. It requires time to use, however, and sneasel are quite frail. Sneasel might struggle at the tail end of the island challenge and against the usual early kahunas, but most juvenile pokémon are slower than them and can still be taken out in a few strikes. They may fall off towards the end of the challenge if they do not grow and evolve.

Acquisition

Sneasel capture is currently banned at altitudes less than one mile above sea level. This prevents capture of specimens venturing down the mountain to hunt for feathers, eggs, or easy prey. Weavile capture is banned outright due to the small number of total individuals that live on Mauna Lanakila. Given their fairly large ranges and small social groups, there are at most one hundred and fifty weavile on Lanakila, with another fifty to one hundred sneasel living on the mountain at any given time. Captive breeding keeps the species from being critically endangered, but it is unlikely that weavile will ever have a large wild population given the limited size of Mauna Lanakila and the relative warmth of Mauna Hokulani.

Only trainers who have cleared all four grand trials are allowed to explore the upper altitudes of Mauna Lanakila. All others must take one of the marked roads to the peak while inside of a vehicle. Leaving the car for non-emergency reasons is prohibited. By the time a trainer can catch their own sneasel only the League will remain. Even advanced trainers may find Lanakila to be unforgiving. Most Alolans are not familiar with survival in icy, mountainous terrain. Snow can conceal hazards such as crabmoinable or pitfalls. Icy crevasses requiring specialized gear crisscross the mountain.

Trainers that survive the terrain may be finished off by the pokémon that inhabit the mountain. The apex predator, ninetales, do not prey on humans. Vanilluxe and crabominable do. Weavile will happily finish off any weakened humans they encounter. Trainers that find a sneasel may be able to bribe it into the party with eggs and red feathers.

There are breeders that specialize in sneasel, but a well-bred sneasel can cost upwards of $2,500 given the demand for the species from competitive battlers. Runts and temperamentally undesirable sneasel can often be purchased for less. Shelters occasionally have a sneasel or weavile abandoned after it scratched up something important.

Sneasel can be captured, purchased, or adopted with a Class II license. Weavile can be purchased or adopted with a Class III license.

Breeding

After six months of age sneasel are kicked out of their mother’s fesnyng. The sneasel will split off into two groups – one of the brothers and one of the sisters. They will stay in these groups until evolution. At this point unrelated female and male groups may cross paths and decide to form a fesnyng together. The group is polyamorous with all males (hobs) typically mating indiscriminately with all females (jills), and vis-versa.

Pregnancy lasts three months. Females will continue to hunt until the two-month mark. At the end of the pregnancy the female will give birth to six to twelve sneasel. Upon birth the sneasel are only four inches long and weigh about three ounces. They are born with white fur. Their teeth have not yet erupted. Over the first three weeks of life the sneasel will grow quickly. Sneasel open their eyes after about two weeks. Between three and six weeks the sneasel will begin teething. Claws begin to develop after twelve weeks. Fur also begins to darken around this time. All members of the fesnyng help raise the sneasel. After six months the sneasel are sent out into the world. The mother will begin mating again about two months after her last litter has left.

In captivity weavile breeding is relatively easy. Weavile are happy to mate with any male that meets their standards and will do most of the childrearing on their own. During this time the temperature in their environment should be kept as low as possible, except for a warm nest box with bedding. Assistance is usually not necessary during childrearing. Attempts to get near the sneasel may be met with threatening displays. Some jills will allow their trainer to assist, or even grow upset if their trainer does not offer to help. Attitudes vary by individual. As the sneasel leave the nest a bin of snow should be provided to dig in and interact with. Alolan breeders will often get this snow from Lanakila. Others will use snow created by a ninetales or other ice-type.

The offspring can be given away at six months with few consequences. It is not advised to separate a jill from her offspring before this point.

Crossbreeding is possible with most mustelids. There are some reports of interbreeding with bears and canines, but these pairings seldom produce reproductively viable offspring. This must be done with a hob, as jills will not

Relatives

The alpine weavile (M. gabriela) is native to mainland Europe. A Galarian king subsequently introduced them to the island sport hunting. The alpine weavile is the smallest species. They have three claws, but one is much longer than the other two. The smaller claws are usually only four inches long, compared to the seven-inch middle claw. Even the weavile mostly try to kill sleeping prey rather than actively hunt. During the winter they retreat to mountain ranges and the northern reaches of Galar. In the winter their range expands to cover most of Western and Central Europe. Alpine weavile are known for being docile around humans and having longer, thinner fur than the Alolan and Japanese weavile. The combination has made plush weavile popular children’s toys in Europe, although the long claw is usually switched to the second finger rather than the third.

The largest species of weavile is the Canadian weavile (M. howlett). The Canadian weavile is substantially stockier and larger than their Alolan counterparts. Some individuals can stand fifty-four inches tall without the crest and weigh over ninety pounds. Part of this weight comes from their habit of eating small amounts of metal. The metal gradually builds up in parts of the claws and skeleton to make them even more durable than their frame would suggest. Canadian weavile are classified as dual ice and steel types. Their permanent range covers most of Canada and parts of the northwestern United States. Some individuals will migrate as far south as Unvoa during the winter.

The modern Japanese weavile (M. akhiro) are descended from the original sneasel species of Sinnoh and an and an alien population that came through wormholes. The original Japanese sneasel (M. hudson) were venomous and diurnal. Early reports from Sinnoh indicated that the sneasel, while mischievous, would help humans on occasion. There are photographs and reports of one adult helping carry its trainer up the cliffs of a mountain. The evolution of this sneasel had the claws of weavile but was substantially lankier and taller and did not make a headcrest. At the time this evolution was dubbed ‘sneasler.’ The venom of the species was a neurotoxin. When diluted it could be used as a painkiller. One application of the poison may have been to get prey to run away without realizing they had been hurt. The high blood circulation from running would accelerate the time it took to bleed out. The sneasler would then follow the blood trail at its own pace and use its claws to finish off the injured creature if necessary.

Sneasler went extinct due to the difference in mating standards between male and female weavile. Females carefully evaluate and often reject males that try to join them. It is the males who must make the most elaborate headcrests. It is the males who must show the females an impressive kill to convince them to mate. Females simply evaluate. Female sneasler were solitary and did not evaluate mates for caretaking or companionship. They would often mate with any male they crossed paths with in their very large home range. Male weavile would often mate with female sneasler, producing offspring that were behaviorally and physically distinct from both species. Sneasler would mate with these offspring, female weavile would not. Female weavile would only mother sneasel if both parents were weavile. Sneasler’s genepool became more and more diluted as the remaining sneasler mated with hybrids or weavile instead of other sneasler. The resulting hybrids were often less capable of acting as venomous diurnal predators than sneasler and also not well suited for being pack-based nocturnal hunters like weavile. Over time they went extinct due to their declining fitness.

Female weavile would mate with some hybrids that were behaviorally and physically close to weavile. This process resulted in the Japanese weavile inheriting some traits from the now-extinct sneasler. They have mild venom they can release through their claws. Japanese weavile are also fond of leaving their prey with a grievous wound and then letting them run away, avoiding a prolonged fight and still eventually getting to eat their kill when it dies of blood loss. Japanese weavile also have two long claws and a somewhat shorter third claw between the two.

 

[Persephone]

Serperior (Snivy, Servine)
Smugleaf oculacomedentis

Overview

Serperior are one of the most popular serpentine pokémon worldwide. Their relative intelligence, sociability, hardiness, and power make them an excellent choice for a first pokémon.

The catch is, snivy are not actually snakes. Snivy are dragons. They are not even serpentine pseudo dragons like dunsparce, gyarados, and milotic. Snivy are draconic lizards closely related to applin. As they grow their legs become less prominent until they are reduced to little more than flaps. In exchange, serperior have long vines they can manipulate with a high degree of power and dexterity.

Serperior get almost their entire diet from sunlight and tree sap. As far as dragons go they have an excellent mix of power, temperament, and ease of care.

All of this has led to many snivy being imported to Alola over the years. Some have invariably been released with good intentions in forests home to a variety of grass types.

This has had unintended consequences. Female serperior can reproduce through parthenogenesis, creating male offspring they can mate with to form a self sufficient population from one founder. Unlike most true snakes, serperior do not eat birds. This spares the rowlet population from another stressor, but means that decidueye don’t go out of their way to kill serperior. All the while serperior are damaging the often endangered trees of the forests they live in.

Capture of wild snivy, servine, and serperior is encouraged in order to combat this problem. Trainers can obtain an excellent party member and help the archipelago’s environment at the same time.

Physiology

All stages of the evolutionary line are classified as dual grass- and dragon-types. The designation is uncontroversial.

Snivy have long, lithe bodies with short limbs. Their underside is cream colored while the back is green but not photosynthetic. The tip of the tail contains a flat, leaf-like growth that is photosynthetic. Snivy derive much of their energy from the tail. The rest is gained from tree snap.

Small nubs extend from six points along the lizard’s back. Each of these can be extended into hollow vines with a sharp tip. The vines can pierce the soft flesh of some tree species and extract sap directly from their vascular system. Snivy’s specialized digestive tract can then digest this sap.

Snivy have a small “hood” of yellow scales extending behind the neck. The hood’s primary purpose is intimidation. Snivy have large eyes and very impressive glares, further complimented by the hood making their head look larger than it is. If this fails snivy are mildly venomous. The venom is not a danger to humans and usually only causes mild bruising. It is very painful for a short period and often tricks attackers into thinking the snivy is far more of a threat than it really is.

It is commonly believed that tropical snivy lash out at the eyes when attacked. In some parts of Central America they are even known as “eye eaters.” These claims are false: snivy are reluctant to put their head anywhere near an opponent’s jaws.

Servine are longer than snivy. Their forelimbs are little more than flaps while the back limbs have been greatly diminished. Servine usually move by slithering and are surprisingly fast. Some servine can move at speeds up to twenty miles per hour in short bursts.

Servine also gain several more leaflike growths around their back. These are partially for photosynthesis and partially for camouflage. Most of servine’s back scales are photosynthetic. In order to operate efficiently they must be regularly cleaned. Servine use their flexible body and long tongue to meticulously clean themselves several times a day. At times they will even swim in relatively clean bodies of water to wash off.

Serperior are much longer than servine. Up to two-thirds of the body length consists of the tail, identified as anything behind the cloaca. The limbs are reduced to small, useless flaps. Serperior are still very agile between their powerful muscles and long vines. On flat ground serperior can slither at up to forty miles per hour. Even while climbing in dense rainforest canopies serperior can move atover thirty miles per hour, rapidly weaving between different limbs and even jumping from tree to tree.

Almost all of serperior’s scales are green. The scales on the stomach are light green and not photosynthetic. The back scales are a rich emerald green and contain chloroplasts. Serperior get most of their food from photosynthesis and only rarely drink tree sap. Captive specimens that battle frequently will still need it as a major component of their diet to keep up with the energy demands of combat.

Serperior also have a pair of yellow horns extending from the back of their head. These help with intimidation and make it harder to bite their head. In a pinch they can also be used to parry attacks.

The strangest part of serperior’s anatomy is a system of organs that refine and convert photosynthetic and elemental energy. Serperior are extremely efficient photosynthesizers. They also have a peculiar ability to keep unleashing increasing elemental energy throughout a battle no matter how much has already been spent. Serperior can fire off draco meteors and life storms for an hour and only get stronger as time goes on. After the battle ends they will crash and go into a near comatose state until they have absorbed enough energy. For the duration of the battle, however, serperior can come to match some of the strongest pokémon in the world.

All of this is especially odd as serperior go out of their way to avoid fighting. Not only do they have a very long hood, now supported by finger-like bones, they can also transmit elemental energy with a glance that can lock up the muscles of their opponents, providing serperior time to slither away without a proper fight. Part of serperior’s glare is psychosomatic: opponents that are not intimidated have a high resistance to the paralytic effects of the attack.

Serperior typically to be fifteen feet long and weigh one hundred pounds. The largest specimen recorded was a female that was twenty feet long and weighed two hundred pounds. In the wild they typically live for around twenty years. Captive specimens can survive for sixty years.

Behavior

Snivy and Servine spend almost all of their time in the upper canopy of rainforests. During the day they venture to the very top levels of the canopy and bask in sunlight. At night they retreat to the lower levels. They are careful to camouflage themselves with the surrounding leaves at all times to avoid catching the attention of harpyre. They rarely drink as they absorb their liquids from tree sap. On occasion they will find water pooled in a leaf and drink from it.

Serperior are too large and heavy to be as fully arboreal as their juvenile forms. They prefer to live around rivers where they can be no more than fifty feet off the ground but still in direct sunlight. Sometimes serperior will venture to the shore or into the water for a time. If a harpyre or pantherma approaches they can race into the water to ward off the fire-type predators. Within the water itself very little will attack a serperior and risk taking a leaf storm in retaliation.

Outside of basking, socializing with conspecifics they cross paths with, and the occasional swim, the species is fairly inactive and prefers to stay still and camouflaged at all times. The species is not territorial but prefer but do not live in groups, except for serperior concentrated around a river. These groups are referred to as vineyards. Serperior within a vineyard will occasionally socialize or share advice. The groups are not hierarchical and the members usually ignore each other unless a major threat appears. Even then the serperior will only form a joint defense if a member is unable to get into the water in time.

Alola does not have harpyre and pantherma. Exeggutor Island’s biggest predator is pinsir, which serperior can easily outrun. In groups they can overpower the beetle. Sometimes individuals can even scare one off with a glare. The forest is also less dense than in Central America or the Amazon. As a result serperior spend most of their time basking on the ground, only approaching trees to drain their sap. Snivy and servine are still arboreal because of their instincts.

All stages stay away from the coastal portions of the island that are occasionally visited by braviary or mandibuzzz. Because of the lack of predation the serperior population has rapidly grown on the island. It is estimated that there are around thirty serperior and as many as two hundred snivy and servine living there. A full scale elimination would require thoroughly examining the entire canopy of the island and also provoking a vineyard of dragons in the middle of a protected area. For now the DNR is simply allowing trainers to catch the lizards, hoping that the value of snivy as a starter and serperior as a partner will take care of the problem on its own without the pokémon realizing they are the targets of an elimination campaign.

All stages are most energetic and active during the late stages of the day and get progressively more sluggish as the night wears on. If attacked right before dawn they might not even have the energy to defend themselves.

Husbandry

Snivy tend to be much more sociable in captivity than in the wild. Even wild-born specimens will often crawl over their trainer during the day and sleep curled up next to them at night for warmth. They are intelligent and inquisitive but rarely destructive. They may, on occasion, break something that cannot support their weight when they try to climb on it.

The most important behavioral quirk to know about the line is their pride. Snivy hate losing face and will not tolerate pet names or anything they find humiliating while other humans or pokémon are around. Handling should be done sparsely in favor of letting the pokémon decide what it wants to do. This pride can also lead to them staying in against opponents past the point where they should. They may be upset when withdrawn for their own safety. Eventually the grudge will past and they will go back to being sociable.

Serperior can get almost all of their energy from basking in sunlight. Snivy and servine love to spend most of their time basking, but also need a great deal of tree sap substitute. It is usually not permitted to let a pokémon feed directly from a tree. The line can eat substitutes such as nectar, diluted maple syrup, or fruit juice. Some reptile or grass-type speciality stores also sell powders that can be put in water to create artificial sap. Stationary trainers may want to buy a property with at least one tree big enough to be perpetually fed from.

Solutions will need to be found when travel does not allow the pokémon to bask as much as they would like. Snivy can sleep on top of a pack with a few strategic hooks and loops. Servine may be too heavy for this. Serperior always are. Solar balls simulate sunlight for photosynthesis while within the artificial habitat. These balls are also very expensive. Trainers on a budget may want to shift their travel plans towards moving in the early morning or late evening or only traveling short distances a day.

Servine and serperior frequently groom themselves. Sometimes they will swim in clear waters when offered. Never directly bathe a servine or serperior. They see this as an insult and they may retaliate to preserve their honor.

The line generally get along with other pokemon. They may object to particularly energetic teammates that do not respect their boundaries. Serperior get along best with other lizards and dragons. They may be hostile to fire types until boundaries are established.

Illness

Serperior are hardy creatures like most dragons. They are unlikely to get sick from communicable illnesses. Despite being grass types, serperior are also immune to most plant based illnesses on account of being lizards.

The most common serperior illnesses are tied to nutrition and overexertion. A specimen that has not received enough liquids may appear to be shriveled up, especially around the photosynthetic areas. Specimens without enough sugar will be very drowsy and may lose some color. Serperior deprived of sunlight for too long will begin to wilt and stop moving. Thankfully, serperior are intelligent and can usually learn to recognize enough of the human language to answer yes or no questions about what is wrong with their health. After being given adequate sunlight and tree sap the symptoms will fade.

Serperior are very vulnerable to cold. In Alola this is seldom an issue. Trainers traveling on Mt. Lanakila should keep their serperior in its ball as much as possible. If the pokémon is not needed for the ascent it may be practical to leave it with a friend near the basin for a few days and then have the ball sent up the mountain by express delivery. Minor cold shocks from combat can be healed from by letting the pokémon soak in warm water. More severe cold shocks may require veterinary attention, especially if they resulted in unconsciousness or may have frozen tissue.

Serperior will become exhausted after firing off an escalating barrage of leaf storms. They will lie sprawled out and rarely move. This is normal. Make sure they have adequate sunlight and tree sap available and keep a guard pokémon around to make sure that predators don’t take advantage of them in their vulnerable state.

Evolution

Snivy slowly grow into servine over the course of a year. Frequent battle and healing can accelerate the process and lead to evolution in as little as six months. Servine take another year to evolve when unstressed, which again can be reduced to about six months. This means that trainers who obtain a two month old snivy at the onset of their journey can have a serperior by the end. The formal demarcations for evolution are the loss of function in the forelimbs for servine and the hind limbs for serperior.

Battle

Serperior see a good deal of use in international circuits and American regional leagues alike. They boast a combination of durability, intelligence, speed, and power that lets them pulls off a number of roles successfully. Tropical serperior compete with the other two species for usage. Compared to the other two they are the most vulnerable to cold but also the strongest and fastest. Southern serperior are the most durable but also the slowest. Northern serperior are the least vulnerable to cold and nearly as fast as the tropical serperior at the expense of raw power.

All serperior strategies revolve around leaf storm and draco meteor. As the attacks are used throughout the battle more and more power comes available to the pokémon. Most strategies revolve around giving the serperior enough time to really get going. These include the use of leech seed or synthesis to stay healthy. Substitute, calm mind, light screen, and/or reflect reduce the damage of incoming attacks. Taunt can be used to prevent other pokémon from setting up on serperior as it steadily boosts. Any combination of two of these moves with draco meteor and life storm can be a winning set.

Serperior’s biggest weakness is their extreme vulnerability to cold. Ice-types must be eliminated before serperior can sweep. Even pokémon with ice coverage can knock them out. Their second weakness is their lack of coverage. Serperior are very skilled at manipulating grass and dragon energy but are inept at wielding other wavelengths. What coverage options they have tend to rely more on their mediocre physical strength than their elemental reserves. Steel-types can tank most of serperior’s attacks well. Their only drawback against serperior is that most steel types are slow while the lizards are fast, thin targets. Eventually serperior can overpower the threats that wall them if they can avoid being hit in the meantime.

Servine and snivy are fast and full of tricks, but lack the sheer power that serperior can build up to. They can slowly boost through calm mind while keeping themselves healthy with synthesis or leech seed. This will require purchase of a calm mind TM and training emphasizing recovery methods. The species can also provide support for trainers who can afford TMs for the screens and defog. They work best as bulky and annoying opponents that steadily whittle the enemy down. On the bright side, few young pokémon in Alola have ice coverage. Ice-types are also unpopular in the region given its warmth.

Acquisition

All three stages can be found in the wild on Exeggutor Island. The best time to catch them is just at daybreak when the pokémon are very lethargic. Most adapt to captivity quite readily after capture. Even if battled during the day others will not defend a specimen being captured unless they are a snivy under two months of age. Capture under this age is legal but not advised given that it will provide the wrath of a mother serperior.

Breeders also regularly have snivy to sell. These snivy are well accustomed to humans and are typically very loyal to the trainer they eventually accompany. Their parents are also usually skilled battlers who may have taught their young a trick or two. Snivy are a popular alternative starter, especially for recent residents of Alola who moved from the mainland.

Snivy and servine can be captured, purchased, or adopted with a Class I license. Serperior require a Class II license to capture, purchase, or adopt.

Breeding

In the wild serperior mate through an elaborate dancing display involving leaf storm and draco meteor attacks and fully flexing the hood. If a female accepts a male they will intertwine around each other and mate.

Mating occurs in March as the rainy season comes to an end. A clutch of about fifteen eggs is laid in April. The snivy will emerge in June. Mother and father will take turns sitting on the eggs. Any predator that attempts to steal one will be met with a full assault if the initial glare fails to deter them. After the eggs hatch the mother provides almost all of their care. For a time she will spend most of her time in trees with her offspring.

Mothers watch and teach their offspring intensively for two months. For the next ten months she will make daily trips to the canopy but spend her nights closer to the surface. The year after is mostly spent in usual serperior habitat with occasional trips to the canopy to check on her offspring and teach more lessons. At the end of the two years she will mate once more and lay another clutch.

In captivity most snivy are given away after two months. Mothers spend nearly all of their time with the offspring condensing two years of education into two months. At the end they are almost always willing to let their children go to trainers she trusts. Sometimes she will reflexively distrust a trainer and not allow her snivy to travel with them.

Most breeders use a greenhouse setup with no predators and adequate light for all individuals. Some breeders even use hollow faux trees with artificial tree sap stored inside. Others collect real tree sap and bring it to the snivy. The father can be kept in a separate enclosure after the children are born. If this is not the case he can be kept in a separate enclosure. If the snivy are removed by the next mating season the mother will mate again.

Relatives

Serperior’s closest living relative is applin. While flapple has a similar niche and habitat, appletun has very different behaviors from serperior.

There are three recognized species of serperior. The species in Alola is the tropical serperior, which are originally native to Central America, the cloud forests of the Andes, and the Amazon Basin. Introduced populations can be found in Indonesia, Alola, the Maldives, and Hispañola. Their ability to swim helps them thrive in archipelagos and islands, especially since these areas often lack the large predators that prey on them in their native habitat.

The northern or temperate serperior (S. borealis) can be found in the Northeast and Midwest regions of the United States, as well as in portions of southeastern Canada. The species is by far the smallest and are more adept on the ground than in trees. They spend most of their time in forest clearings but can bolt into trees if trouble approaches. Snivy are an official starter pokémon in many states and reservations, including Unova. Northern snivy are not dragon-types. As a result they are much more tolerant of the cold. During the worst of the winter the pokémon bury into the soil and go into brumation. They will occasionally surface to drink but will promptly go back into their burrow.

Southern serperior (S. bombacioris) are a largely aquatic species native to the salt marshes, bogs, and rivers of the southeastern United States. Southern serperior have far more potent venom than the other two species and can pose a serious threat to humans with their bite. They are also much heavier and wider. Some specimens have weighed up to three hundred pounds. They are still shorter than the tropical serperior and rarely exceed lengths of ten feet, although some individuals can grow to be twelve or thirteen feet long. Their weight makes it impossible for the serperior to live in trees. Instead they spend most of their time in or around the water. Serperior spend most of the day basking on land. Feraligatr, the apex predator of the region, seldom risk a confrontation with a venomous snake that can launch highly effective leaf storms. During the night the serperior retreat into the waters. They live in vineyards of five to ten serperior. Two individuals stay awake to keep guard while the rest sleep. After an hour or so they trade off watch duty.

Southern snivy and servine receive much less parental oversight than the other two species. They may occasionally venture to the water to learn from their parents. Most of their time is spent in the treetops to avoid larger predators.

 

[Persephone]

Ampharos (Mareep, Flaaffy)
Faceremachina somnus electrovium

Overview

Ampharos was one of the first pokémon to be domesticated. Through the Bronze Age it was one of the most important domesticated pokémon in the Old World. As technology advanced and more species were domesticated, ampharos gradually became less important than gogoat, miltank, mudsdale, and arcanine.

This isn’t to say that ampharos have gone away completely: they are still extremely popular as livestock in some parts of the world. Their usage has also pivoted. In the modern age ampharos are bred nearly as much for trainers as for their wool, hides, milk, and meat.

Mareep are docile and reasonably powerful pokémon. Their anxiety is a challenge to be worked around, but not a particularly difficult one. Mareep are naturally inclined to trust their trainer and aren’t terrible averse to battle. Ampharos are powerful enough to hold their own at the highest levels of competitive play. Their biggest drawback, sheering, can still be profitable with the right contacts. All of this is enough to make mareep popular as an alternative starter.

Physiology

All stages are classified as pure electric types. The designations are contested. Mareep meet some of the criteria for normal-types and have often been interbred with normal-types like dubwool. A now extinct wild mareep species were also powerful dragons and the surviving ampharos can regain some of this power via mega evolution, making a case for a secondary dragon type. Ultimately ampharos do not show enough traits of either typing to convince a majority of scientists.

Mareep are quadrupedal mammals best known for their thick wool. Most of mareep’s body is engulfed in coarse yellow wool. The exceptions are the tail, face, and ears. Mareep’s stomach, face, and limbs are blue. Their back, tail, and ears have black stripes against yellow skin. The tail is tipped in a red bulb of flesh.

Mareep’s wool holds and generates static charges. It can double in volume as static grows over time. As this happens the bulb on their tail, composed of a layer of flesh over a mass of liquids and metals, glows brighter and brighter. The static must be vented in spectacular discharges from time to time. Periodic sheering and occasional battle can reduce the potency and frequency of accidental discharges.

Mareep have long, sensitive ears and their eyes are positioned in such a way as to give them excellent peripheral vision. Mareep can hear and see what the others around them are doing and keep a close eye on the environment, even when it seems like they are distracted.

Because of their cellulose-rich diet, mareep have a four-chambered digestive system like tauros and miltank. Partially digested food is occasionally sent back to the mouth for more chewing. Mareep do not have upper front teeth. Instead, they have a pad of tough skin they grind their lower teeth again.

Flaaffy have much less wool than mareep. It tends to disappear first on the stomach and lower back, steadily working its way up the back towards the head. This is caused by static overloads over time. Too much electricity in the wool can cause burns that scar and prevent wool from growing back. These scars eventually heal, but for a time they are an ugly red color. The scar tissue is very resistant to electricity and flaaffy are much better at tanking electrical attacks than mareep are.

Flaaffy develop internal electricity generating organs as they grow. This means that, despite the loss of wool, they are nearly as powerful as mareep. Their bulb changes colors from red to blue as a more sophisticated electrical storage system develops in the tip of the tail. Flaaffy can stand upright but rarely do for more time than is needed to scout out their surroundings. When in a pinch flaaffy can shoot out clumps of charged fur to stun enemies.

Ampharos have lost all of their wool. Their scar tissue has been transformed into a rubbery yellow hide that provides almost perfect insulation from electrical attacks. It is also generally hard to cut or pierce, providing them with decent armor against anything that manages to get close. Ampharos are tall creatures with long necks. This provides them with an excellent ability to survey their surroundings but presents its own logistical difficulties. The length of the neck makes regurgitating partially digested food impractical. Instead ampharos’s stomach uses strong electrical charges to break down food at the cellular level for absorption.

Ampharos produce a great deal of electricity internally. Their tail bulbs, once again red, can act as a powerful light source that can be seen from miles away. The light can be used to blind attackers, draw the attention of the flock, or signal distant ampharos. When this fails to deter predarors, ampharos can unleash some of the strongest thunderbolts of any organic pokémon.

Another unusual property that ampharos possess is their talent for healing. While not as adept as blissey or miltank, ampharos can heal minor ailments and wounds of those around them with special elemental bursts. This can even have some restorative effects on humans, healing cuts and bruises and alleviating minor illnesses. Some mentally ill trainers even report a lessening of symptoms when around their ampharos. Empirical evidence is mixed. Scientists currently attribute the reduction in symptoms to either the placebo effect or a natural uptick in mood from being around a large, soft pokémon that enjoys cuddling.

Ampharos can reach heights of six feet and weigh two hundred and fifty pounds. Heights of five and a half feet and weights of two hundred pounds are more typical. Ampharos can live for thirty years in captivity. Feral specimens have an average lifespan of eleven years.

Behavior

The ampharos in Alola are a domesticated species. The only wild populations that exist in the archipelago are feral. Most of this section will focus on their captive behaviors, as their feral counterparts are similar.

The species typically lives in flocks of up to a hundred mareep, ten or so flaaffy, and about five ampharos. Wild flocks are a little more skewed towards flaaffy and ampharos but are still dominated by mareep. Millennia of selective breeding have led to the threshold of evolution being very high when in large flocks.

Ampharos guide and protect their flocks. They decide when and where to move. Ampharos also make sure that the mareep are healthy. When predators are spotted ampharos lead the collective defense while the mareep try to get to safety. The flaaffy take over coordinating the evacuation in these times while the ampharos fight.

Female ampharos are all of equal rank. Males compete in contests of luminosity and physical strength to determine their hierarchy. The highest ranked male makes decisions when the females disagree. When the females are unanimous their decision holds.

There is a perception that mareep are unintelligent and easily fooled. This is not true. Ampharos are actually some of the smartest livestock pokémon. Even mareep are no dumber than the average miltank. They can learn to recognize several vocal commands, learn up to five attacks at once, and understand their trainer’s emotional cues after a few weeks together. Mareep are not great planners and are quick to defer to ampharos, but they are capable of basic decisions. In captivity their deferential instincts are largely reoriented to their trainer.

All stages are vocal and communicate through bleats, grunts, baas, yelps, and whistles. They can recognize the voices of most mareep in their flock. In general mareep have high social and emotional intelligence. They are quick to comfort others in their flock and seem to have rich inner lives. Mareep and flaaffy form friends, rivals, and enemies within their flock and tend to separate into distinct cliques.

Ampharos try to place themselves as outsiders to the more mundane social disputes of the flock. They can still recognize and manipulate group dynamics to their advantage. Sometimes they will even subtly favor their old factions, although the other ampharos will often react poorly and mareep may even ignore ampharos that play too deeply into factional politics.

Husbandry

Mareep are a domesticated species that generally fares well in captivity. Their diet consists primarily of grasses, hay, and roughage. In some parts of the commonwealth they can freely graze. In others they cannot. Check local regulations before heading into the field. Some property owners will also gladly accept a mareep eating on their land as it cuts down the length of grass without removing it entirely.

Another major concern for grazing is the potential of poisons. Some pesticides and fertilizers are toxic to mareep. Before grazing on land check to see what chemicals, if any, have been applied to it. If all else fails there are markets for organic hay in most major cities. Even ampharos are not particularly good pack animals so their trainer may need to carry it themselves when safe grazing opportunities will be scarce.

Ampharos are highly allergic to copper. Too much in their system can make their blood too conductive and lead to internal burns. In general mineral supplements should be avoided for the line. Salt licks are the sole exception as they make for excellent treats and enrichment.

The line are generally happy to follow their trainer’s orders. They should be allowed and encouraged to walk alongside their trainer on trails as they are capable of keeping up and will enjoy the bonding time and exercise. Mareep are reluctant battlers but will defend themselves once a match has begun. Flaaffy and ampharos are much more eager to deal with perceived enemies of their trainer. Ampharos will need training in toning down the voltage they unleash to non-lethal levels. When ampharos are attacked they instinctively go for an instantaneous kill. If more damage than necessary is inflicted the corpse will serve as a warning to other predators.

Ampharos are happiest with other hoofstock. They can tolerate canines and felines from millennia of being domesticated alongside each other. Other predators such as dragons and birds may receive a colder response, although ampharos can eventually become friendly with almost any pokémon. Steel-types can be on the same team as ampharos but care must be taken to keep the electric-type from eating any of their mineral supplements.

All stages of the line are very affectionate and prefer to spend a great deal of time next to their trainer. Ideally, they would like to sleep in the same bed. This can be a problem with mareep as the static in their fur can shock anyone who touches them. Ampharos, despite being far stronger, almost never accidentally shock humans. There are insulating gloves and suits that can be used but these are seldom comfortable to sleep in.

Mareep and flaaffy must be frequently shorn to prevent them from becoming uncomfortably hot. In Alola it is recommended to shear them every week, although the wool can be allowed to build up for two weeks before particularly serious fights. Shearing must be done with specialized equipment to avoid the electrical charges sparking off the metal and potentially injuring the trainer. Most agricultural stores in Alola sell mareep sheers. Electric-type specialty stores usually do as well. The intricacies of safely sheering a mareep are beyond the scope of this guide. It is best to learn from an experienced trainer or herder. The more experienced mareep handler may also be able to buy any shorn wool.

Illness

Ampharos have long been kept in large numbers in high density flocks. This has made disease inevitable. Several important ones can affect pet ampharos, even if they are far less common than in flocks. Contact with flocks should be avoided to prevent the spread of disease. New mareep added to the team should be quarantined for some time before being introduced to teammates who are vulnerable to the diseases they might carry.

Worms are the most common internal parasite while lice and fleas are common external parasites. The latter can be treated by some sprays and medications. Deworming is relatively easy and inexpensive once the problem is diagnosed. The most serious parasite ampharos can harbor are maggots. Mareep that lie down in fields where large numbers of livestock have defecated will inevitably get manure into their coat and skin. Flies will sometimes lay eggs in this manure. When the maggots hatch they can bury into the flesh and cause a condition known as flystrike. The best treatment for this condition is prevention: shear mareep’s rump and make sure that it is clean. Several mareep trainers bring a portable bidet with them that can be hooked up to a campsite’s faucet. Making sure that mareep and flaaffy’s bedding is clean also helps. Unfortunately, they are a very difficult species to housebreak and all but the best trained ampharos and flaaffy will defecate and urinate wherever they please.

Foot rot is a bacterial infection of the hooves that results in bloating, oozing pus, and a breakage of the skin. It is easy to identify in an individual and can be cured with clinical foot baths if it does not advance too far. This is more of a problem in flocks where it is hard to frequently check on the health of every single individual.

A disease that is more common in pet mareep than livestock mareep is tetanus. Cuts from shearing equipment can result in a tetanus infection. Symptoms include a sudden loss of coordination, difficulty chewing, and muscle spasms. It is best to keep mareep and flaaffy vaccinated for tetanus once every six months, and potentially consider a booster if it has been more than three months since the last shot and a particularly serious cut occurs during shearing. Tetanus allowed to advance too far can have serious long-term consequences or death.

There are two zoonotic diseases carried by mareep that can easily spread to humans. The first is orf, a skin disease that causes lesions around the mouth. It can spread to humans by skin-to-skin contact but is easily treated with timely application of medicine. Less well understood is spontaneous ampharos abortion syndrome (SAAS). Ampharos will sometimes lose a pregnancy due to microorganisms living in their digestive tract. These can spread to humans who have contact with the pokémon’s bodily fluids and can result in miscarriages or other fertility issues. Pregnant women may want to limit their exposure to ampharos out of an abundance of caution.

A sick prey animal will generally try to hide the symptoms. This is true for mareep in pain during battle as they will tend to go abruptly and completely silent after sustaining injury but display few other signs of distress. Thankfully, mareep are used to going up to an ampharos to seek humans. This instinct is usually transferred to the trainer. Mareep will attempt to communicate any health problems they may be having. For external problems this is typically obvious. If the mareep is quiet and trying to catch the trainer’s attention but there is no clear malady, take the pokémon to a Center for treatment as soon as possible.

Evolution

Flaaffy and ampharos do not produce nearly as much wool as mareep. Their hides are valuable for making insulated clothing and their meat has its admirers, but they are still far less economically valuable for mareep. As a result they have been bred to have a much slower rate of evolution when in flocks. Some breeds have been specially bred for ease of care and evolution or to more easily tap into draconic power. These are usually best for trainers. Even standard mareep breeds still evolve relatively quickly when separated from a flock. Specialty breeds typically evolve into flaaffy around six months of age. More standard breeds evolve around five years of age in a flock or one year of age on their own. The formal demarcation line between mareep and flaaffy is the changing color of their tail orb.

The same factors govern the evolution from flaaffy into ampharos. For specialty breeds it usually occurs around one year of age. Standard breeds evolve around seven years in flocks or two years on their own. The formal demarcation line is the loss of all wool. After this point the neck will begin to grow as the pokémon quickly puts on weight, completing the evolution process within a few weeks.

Ampharos from some specialty breeds can mega evolve. The process results in white wool growing from their head and tail. Multiple red crystalline orbs appear throughout the wool to store and discharge the massive amounts of electricity being generated. For a short time mega ampharos can unleash extraordinarily powerful electrical and draconic attacks. Eventually the orbs will begin to shatter and the attacks will become painful and injurious to the pokémon. As with every other mega evolution the process should be done sparingly, be monitored closely, and is only legal with a Class V license.

Battle

Mega ampharos is generally popular in the circuits where it is legal. They are terrifyingly strong and are one of the best counters to birds and water-types. Mega ampharos can also brawl with dragons in a pinch, although they are rarely as skilled at utilizing dragon moves as actual dragon-types are. This can lead to them being knocked out by a particularly fast or skilled opponent. Ground-types are the best counter to mega ampharos as they can sponge most of the pokémon’s most powerful attacks while whittling it down in turn. Anything that can take a thunderbolt and then get in close can put pressure on the pokémon and start breaking orbs. Very powerful ice-types can also create blizzards of ice shards that can break several orbs at once and target the manifested draconic energy. The problem is that most ice-types are not durable enough to take multiple thunderbolts or focus blasts in the meantime. Ampharos will eventually go down, but in the time it takes to accomplish that they may be able to take one or two key opponents with them.

Pairing mega ampharos with trick room support can negate one of their biggest weaknesses and make them truly terrifying to deal with. The only things keeping mega ampharos balanced on trick rooms are bulky ground-types and opportunity cost. Most bulky ground-types, such as golem, rhydon, and hippowdon, are slow. They benefit from trick room just as much as mega ampharos and can take the electric-type down surprisingly quickly. Using mega ampharos also means that another mega evolution cannot be used. Mega ampharos is extremely strong, but their relatively frailty introduces a weakness the base form does not have. There are mega evolutions that make the user strong and either durable or fast. Not all circuits allow mega evolutions either.

Normal ampharos still sees some use in competitive play. Their blindingly bright tails can stun attackers reliant on eyesight, especially if they lack eyelids. Ampharos are also surprisingly durable and can rely on rest to keep them healthy. The resulting drowsiness does little since ampharos are not usually dodging hits with their reflexes. Outside of their light ampharos have very powerful thunderbolts and can rely on volt switch to get them out of harm’s way. Ampharos can also rely on supporting options such as heal bell, reflect, and light screen to keep the team safe.

Still, ampharos are somewhat limited compared to other electric-types. Electivire has excellent coverage, vikavolt is blazingly fast, and magnezone is durable and can float above seismic attacks. Ampharos are not bad, it’s just that experienced trainers can usually obtain a better electric-type to use. Their main use on competitive circuits is among trainers too new or poor to have obtained a stronger replacement.

Mareep are pretty useful for the early parts of the island challenge. Their shocks are relatively strong for a young pokémon and anything that gets close is liable to be hurt by their static. They can also be taught a variety of excellent supporting moves at a time when most trainers are focused solely on offense. Mareep can use heal bell, reflect, light screen, or thunder wave to keep a frail ally in the fight or slow down and trip up a totem. They are also durable for their size and age and can take hits from threats on the first island. Defensively and offensively they will begin to trail off towards the end of the second island.

Flaaffy, unfortunately, have none of the strengths of their younger and older stages. Their lack of wool limits their static, power, and durability. Flaaffy also have not yet developed the internal organs that will make ampharos into powerhouses in their own right. They are best used as screen setters and clerics that enable other pokémon rather than dealing damage in their own right.

Ampharos are powerful enough to deal serious damage to anything that doesn’t naturally resist electricity. They are also durable enough, especially with a screen, to tank several hits. Ground-types are extraordinarily rare in Alola. An ampharos may not contribute much against the traditional last kahuna. To avoid this, trainers may want to brave Poni third or even second so that ampharos does not need to be brought against the rare ground specialist.

Acquisition

Most mareep ranching in Alola occurs around Blush Mountain or Paniola Town. Breeders in these areas often keep a few battle breeds alongside the more traditional agricultural ones. Young mareep of these breeds usually cost around $1,200. Some particularly well-bred or abnormally powerful specimens can cost up to $3,000. This is far from the most expensive alternative starter, but they are still not cheap. Traditional agricultural breeds can sometimes be bought for half the price but will take much longer to evolve and will struggle to learn dragon-type attacks.

Feral mareep are most abundant on Akala. They can be found in the plains in the North-Central part of the island south of Mauna Wela and north of Heahea. Ampharos will sometimes defend the mareep in their flock from trainers but are usually tolerant of capture after a quick proving battle against the mareep. Sometimes ampharos will even use the opportunity to kick a particularly troublesome mareep out of the flock.

Flaaffy and ampharos removal risks the integrity of the flock and is currently banned. There have also been incidents in the past of trainers expecting a standard proving battle against an ampharos and being electrocuted on the spot as a threat to the flock. The DNR generally tolerates the presence of flocks on their lands as they love to eat invasive species such as kudzu. They would rather not see the flocks collapse.

Mareep and flaaffy can be purchased, captured, or adopted with a Class II license. Ampharos can be obtained with a Class I license as they are generally friendly and do not require shearing.

Breeding

Ampharos are polygamous. The dominant male mates with all females in the flock. Females are pregnant for roughly eleven weeks before giving birth to twins. They will begin mating again within two weeks of the mareep’s birth. Ampharos will only nurse their own offspring but after they are weaned all ampharos and flaaffy will look after the mareep.

Ampharos can have fertile offspring with other caprinids. They can also crossbreed with most ungulates, although the resulting offspring are not always fertile and sometimes are plagued with health problems. Hybrids that inherit static-generating wool but not insulating skin will often die of self-inflicted injuries within a year. Cross breeding is easiest with rams that are not dominant in their flock. They will be desperate for any mating and will settle for much more distant relatives than females or dominant rams.

Mates do not have a closer social relationship with each other than with other ampharos. Females can spend most of their time with a non-dominant ram and have the closest bond with him but still consistently mate with the dominant male. On teams females will be drawn to the strongest teammate that is close enough related to them to settle for.

It should be noted here that homosexuality and intersex conditions are abnormally common among ampharos. One study estimated that one in twelve ampharos are homosexual. Female homosexuality rarely creates problems as other ewes can carry offspring or, if the dominant ram is physically stronger, she can be mounted and have children of her own. Homosexuality among non-dominant rams is never a problem as they would not reproduce anyway. When the dominant ram is homosexual there can be serious social fragmentation. Ewes and non-dominant rams can conspire together to kill, exile, or demote the dominant male. If at least one male is also homosexual they may align with the dominant male against his challengers. Sometimes these power struggles are subtle and social and last for months or years. Prudent ranchers remove dominant rams that display homosexual tendencies and either kill them or move them to a trainer or a flock of exclusively homosexual rams.

Relatives

Ampharos are most closely related to dubwool, a species descended from early captive ampharos. Their closest extant wild relative is gogoat.

There are no separate species or subspecies of ampharos. There are still many breeds. Battle and agriculture-oriented breeds have already been discussed. The largest breed, the Saharah shortwool, was specifically bred by a Kalosian scientist in order to awaken the latent draconic potential of the species. The breed is elementally adept but plagued with health issues from excessive inbreeding. Specimens are rare today, although many battle breeds occasionally interbreed with Saharan shortwools.

Agricultural breeds are extremely varid. Some have been bred to evolve quickly and are mostly used for coats and meat. The rise of plastics and lab meat have led to these breeds becoming disfavored. The main divide now is between coarse and fine wool ampharos. Coarse wool ampharos grow larger and produce more wool. Fine wool ampharos are smaller and weaker but have softer wool that makes for higher quality clothing.

Some breeds do better in cold weather than hot. Others can climb well, while most ampharos breeds struggle to move up steep hills. For a species domesticated thousands of years ago there are naturally a wide variety of breeds across time and space.

The original ancestor of modern ampharos has been lost to time. The proto-ampharos, F. colchis, was found in the Eastern Mediterranean, the Caucuses, and portions of Persia and the Hindu-Kush mountains. The proto-ampharos were much larger than modern ampharos. Contemporary records and myths describe them as being phenomenally powerful and having glowing gold wool. Their healing abilities were far beyond modern ampharos and they could allegedly cure any wound. Hunting for their fleece may have contributed to their extinction. Other theories include competition for food with their domesticated counterparts, viruses spread by domestic ampharos, climate change, and potential changes in the mineral composition of the topsoil following a series of dust storms in the Arabian Penninsula. In any case ampharos disappeared from almost all of their range simultaneously around 4,000 years ago. An isolated population may have continued to exist in the Hindu-Kush mountains until 500 CE, although no fossils have been found. The alleged proto-ampharos may have simply been drampa with an unusual coat color.

 

[Persephone]

Mudsdale (Mudbray)
Protequus pedesluto

Overview

Mudsdale has long been one of the most reliable domesticated pokémon. Their ability to haul heavy loads long distances made them essential for traders, farmers, and construction workers until the invention of the internal combustion engine. Their numbers declined precipitously after fast-moving machines that didn’t need to graze or rest took over the roles they once held. Fondness for the breed, especially in the old holdings of the Galarian Empire, saved the species and have kept it going strong.

Mudsdale are the quintessential pack pokémon. They can drag up to six tons of weight on their own or ten when working in a pair. Their drawbacks are that they are slower than the average human’s walking speed, they are not allowed on all trails, and some mudsdale struggle to climb steep inclines. The most common breed in Alola, the northland mudsdale, is adept at climbing but not all breeds are. Not all mudsdale in Alola are northlands.

Their docility, strength, and friendliness make mudsdale an excellent pokémon for trainers. Those looking for a pack pokémon or ground-type should strongly consider adding one to their team.

Physiology

Both stages are classified as pure ground-types. As a domesticated pokémon some scholars argue for a secondary normal-typing. Mudsdale are not particularly resistant to ghost attacks and prefer to use fighting moves to normal ones. As such it is unlikely the Department of Agriculture reconsiders their ruling.

Mudbray are small and sturdy equine pokémon. Outside of their mane, lower legs, and tail they have very little fur. Most of mudbray’s skin is rather pale. To combat sunburn they take frequent mud or dirt baths to keep their skin covered.

Most equines are built for quick escapes. Mudbray and mudsdale are not. Their lungs are large but not well suited for short term exertions. The line’s legs are often caked in dried mud to provide a form of armor against attacks and the sun. Their bones are dense and stocky. Most peculiarly, mudsdale can relax individual muscle groups or portions of their brain in sets. They do not need to fall completely asleep for several days. All of this makes mudbray and mudsdale incredibly good at hauling weight long distances, but poor sprinters. When they must fight they rely on their strong muscles, sturdy skeleton, and thick skin to protect them. Terrakinesis can trip up opponents. Once they have fallen to the ground mudsdale will mercilessly kick their would-be-predator to death.

Mudsdale are much larger than mudbray but have most of the same adaptations. In addition to their mane several distinct strands of hair fall down over the face. These will inevitably become caked in mud, letting mudsdale later use the dried earth as an impromptu shield for attacks on their head or neck. The mud that dries on their leg fur increases the weight of their kicks.

Mudsdale can grow to be six feet tall at the withers and weigh up to 2200 pounds clean or 2500 pounds with the dried mud on their body factored in. They live an average of ten years in the wild and twenty-five in captivity.

Behavior

Alola’s mudsdale herds range in size from over thirty individuals to less than five depending on habitat fragmentation, trainer capture, predation, and available food. The smallest herds consist of a mated pair and their mudbray. The largest consist of multiple pairs and their offspring. A handful of bachelor herds have also been documented, usually made up of one or two sets of brothers.

Mudsdale prefer to live near mud. This leads to a preference towards areas with water and loose soil. Semi-arid grasslands near streams or ponds are ideal. The largest herds are found in Poni Island National Park and along the slopes of Blush Mountain. The Ula’Ula herds usually move into the mountains during the rainy season when the usually arid edge of the desert experiences enough rain to form mud. During the dry season they move to the wetter lowlands.

Smaller populations can be found in central Akala. Most of these mudsdale have captive ancestors within two generations. Some of the Poni Island mudsdale herds have been feral for nearly two centuries.

Mudsdale are vulnerable to sunburns if there is no mud present. If there is no natural mud they have some ability to make their own. Mudsdale’s saliva can mix with dirt to form an artificial mud. Mothers will often lick it onto their offspring each morning. Mudsdale can also rip out grasses and churn the earth in order to create suitable mud pits. Some older Mudsdale can even use their terrakinesis well enough to create a clay basin beneath the pit so no water is lost. This helps preserve the mud last longer when water is scarce.

Mudsdale were bred for colder climates than Alola. As a result they spend most of their day resting in the shade or wallowing in mud to stay cool. During the early morning and late evening they graze on whatever they can find. Feral mudsdale are known for destroying crops to get at foods with the energy they need. Mudsdale are particularly fond of ripping out root vegetables to eat. Even captive mudsdale on farms must be watched to make sure they do not eat the crops.

Wild mudsdale are fairly docile and will seldom bother humans or other herbivores. They can quickly form a brutal collective defense against any predators that approach, even those that do not usually attack mudsdale. Even the Commonwealth’s apex predators usually give mudsdale a wide berth. The durability, size, and power make attacks unwise. Even fast carnivores that could get in and kill a mudbray unimpeded can have difficulties dragging their prey away before the mudsdale attack.

Herds do not seem to be hierarchal. Older individuals may command more respect but are not unquestionably obeyed. Jockeying for dominance is rare, with competition being limited to displays of strength during mating season.

Husbandry

Mudsdale are a domesticated species. This makes them gentle, obedient, and good at carrying loads behind them or on their back. It also means they have been selectively bred into their modern form, leading to drawbacks that most wild species would not have.

The biggest drawback mudsdale have are their dietary requirements. Adults need up to 25,000 calories a day. A quarter of these calories should come from fat. This requirement can be met by pouring vegetable oil on their food. Mudsdale do not like the taste of vegetable oil. If oil is used as a cheap fat source it should be poured over favored foods like potatoes and alfalfa. Nuts are more expensive, especially in bulk, but are a good natural fat source. The bulk of the diet can be made up of hay after fat, vitamin, and protein needs are met. Mudsdale will not refuse meat but it should not be the core of their diet.

Water is another major issue in mudsdale care. The breed used in Alola was initially raised to handle the temperatures of northern Galar. Alola is considerably warmer than northern Galar. As a result, mudsdale will need a great deal of drinking water to offset the losses from sweating. Water should be offered at least hourly when on the trail. If the mudsdale is made to work during the afternoon or in direct sunlight it should be provided every half hour.

Mudsdale are destructive grazers that are rarely allowed to forage on the trail or in other Commonwealth or federal lands. Much of their pack load may be made up of their own food and water.

The line’s favorite toy by far are mud pits. The ideal mud pit is big enough to roll and sit in. Mudsdale will spend most of their day in the mud if allowed to do so. Air conditioned or shaded space make good alternatives. Mudsdale tend to dislike pokéballs but they can be used to prevent overheating when no other option is available. Mudsdale that must stay in the sun all day should either be coated in mud or given a layer of sunblock. Most commercial sunscreens will do the trick. Sunscreen should be reapplied every hour to prevent losses from sweat. Mud lasts longer and makes the pokémon more comfortable.

When they are not sleeping or wallowing mudsdale (and especially mudbray) like to be near their trainer. Some can be housebroken enough to be allowed indoors if the floors are durable enough. They will still leave muddy tracks wherever they go. This cannot be trained out. Air conditioned barns help make environments both trainer and pokémon can be comfortable in during the day. Walks at sunrise and sunset can also reinforce the trainer-pokémon bond.

Mudsdale are generally tolerant of all teammates. Mudbray are skittish around large predators but are otherwise fine. If a mudsdale and her child are on a team the mother may lash out at predators she had no problem with before. Be careful handling team dynamics after a mudsdale gives birth, handling every reintroduction with all the caution of an initial introduction. Immediately withdraw the other pokémon if the mudsdale shows any signs of aggression.

Illness

The most common illness seen in mudsdale is sunburn. The symptoms are much the same in the horses as in humans: pink or red skin that is hot to the touch and very sensitive. If a mudsdale is burned give it some time off from hauling loads. Let the pokémon relax in the shade with access to cool water. Aloe can soothe the pain from a sunburn. Mild burns can have mud put over them immediately to prevent them from worsening and reduce exposure to the air. Worse ones, especially those that are blistering, should be kept clean to prevent pain and infection.

Most highly specialized domesticated breeds have some genetic health problems. For mudsdale the main issue is chronic progressive lymphedema (CPL). The illness manifests as increasing swelling of the lower legs, eventually making it painful or impossible to move. The swollen area can also become infected and spread illness throughout the body. CPL is not instantly lethal. In specimens with the illness the hair in the region should be kept short to allow for regular monitoring. The mud should also be washed off for inspection every one to two days. Topical treatments and regular cleaning can keep the illness from progressing. In early cases high-intensity treatments such as blissey eggs may be able to temporarily end all symptoms. Because the disease is genetic it will eventually return. There is no known cure for CPL.

Evolution

Mudbray flash evolve after becoming sufficiently strong. This can occur with time but is greatly accelerated by training. As a result many mudbray are eager to fight and carry packages in the hopes that it will make them stronger. Pet mudbray can take up to two years to evolve. Pack mudbray usually take twelve to fifteen months. Frequent battlers can evolve in as little as eight months.

Battle

Mudsdale are slow, sturdy, and reasonably strong. They are not so strong or capable of healing that they can act as walls in their own right at the highest levels of competitive battling. What they are fairly good at is wallbreaking. Many physical walls are rock- or steel-types even slower than mudsdale. The horse can weather their hits long enough to get close and deal with their opponent with brutal high horsepower attacks. Those that are slightly faster can be tripped up by bulldoze. In the meantime, mudsdale can set stealth rocks of their own. Mudsdale are held back not only by their speed but by their power. Their kicks are certainly impressive, but some bulky threats are just too durable for them. Steelix and tyranitar are the main obstacles for mudsdale. The species also greatly struggles to aim airborne stone edges or to keep track of fliers, leaving them unable to do much against birds except set stealth rocks.

Mudsdale are much more popular on the regional circuits where monsters such as tyranitar and steelix are less common. The overall lower power level also lets mudsdale tank attacks more reliably and even outspeed more threats. At lower levels there are more grounded electric-types for mudsdale to handle. In the highest echelons of competitive play vikavolt, magnezone, and rotom are by far the most common electric-types. Mudsdale cannot deal with any of them well.

The power level on the island challenge is lower than even the regional circuits. Mudsdale can realiably deal with most slow walls and even trip up faster grounded pokémon with bulldoze. They also do not need a particularly deep kit to function well. Stealth rock is useful for dealing with birds. Heavy slam or body press make for solid coverage options. Many mudsdale will even learn heavy slam naturally. High horsepower and bulldoze complete the most common set. Some trainers opt to run rest to increase durability. Mudsdale’s unique brain makeup lets them keep more awareness while drowsy, but the further loss of speed and reaction times makes the strategy risky.

Mudbray are perfectly solid pokémon for the early stages of the island challenge. They are stalwart and determined battlers with enough physical strength and durability to come out on top against younger pokémon with limited movepools. The lack of ground-types in Alola also means they are not really competing for team slots. Their next best options either have esoteric care requirements (dugtrio, palossand, whiscash), are only found in harsh environments such as Poni Island or the Haina Valley, or are quite rare in the wild (swampert). None have the utility outside of battle than mudsdale do.

Acquisition

Feral mudbray and mudsdale can be found on Akala, Ula’Ula, and Poni. They are most common in semi-arid grasslands or agricultural areas. They can be captured from the wild and generally adjust well to human care. Attempting to catch a young mudbray may still invoke the wrath of the mother. Older mudbray will usually be parted with after a proving battle against the mudbray itself. Capture of a mudbray requires a Class I license. Mudsdale require a Class III.

The species can also be purchased relatively cheaply with a known pedigree and clean bill of health. This can reduce the chance of health scares, especially from CPL. Captive-born specimens also adjust better to trainers and are familiar with how to carry or drag a load. Some shelters may also have injured mudbray or mudsdale on hand that are no longer suitable for battling or heavy labor but will make good companions. Mudbray can be adopted or purchased with a Class I license; mudsdale require a Class II.

Breeding

Mudsdale form mated pairs. Males attempt to impress females through feats of strength such as moving large boulders or being able to knock another male to the ground. It is expected to help a downed opponent get back to his feat and these contests are rarely lethal. Being able to find or produce high quality mud is also a highly valued trait. Mated pairs forage and sleep together. They may wander off for a time to play with other members of the herd but they always find their way back together.

Mating typically takes place in early spring. After a four-month pregnancy the female will give birth to a single mudbray. Both parents take turns caring for the child, although the mother usually puts in more work in education while the father watches the mudbray while it plays. After about six months the mudbray begins to exercise more independence. It will still rarely leave its parents sight but it will spend more time interacting with other members of the herd. By the time it is a year old it will be mostly independent of its parents. Total independence occurs after evolution.

Mudsdale are rather easy to interbreed with other species and breeds due to their attraction to strength. They will happily mate with sufficiently strong rapidash, zebstrika, and other odd-toed ungulates such as rhyhorn. If both sides form a pair bond they should not be separated. If the other mate is not interested in a prolonged relationship with their mate the pair can be broken easily. In fact, not breaking the pair risks the mudsdale resorting to violence against their distant mate.

Relatives

Mudsdale were bred specifically for their labor. Faster breeds such as rapidash handled messaging duties and carried elite soldiers while mudsdale toiled in the fields and built the roads the rapidash ran on. The northland mudsdale are well adapted to hilly terrain. This makes them the preferred choice in mountainous Alola, even if the breed is stressed by heat. Belgian mudsdale are more heat tolerant but struggle to climb steep inclines.

The largest mudsdale are the Emperor’s breed. These were developed to be giant horses of war designed to keep their riders high above the battlefield. In practice the breed suffered from serious health problems and were not fast enough to be effective on the front lines. Ironically, the breed is one of the most peaceful and will rarely bother to attack predators that get close. They are popular as pets and occasionally a trainer will attempt to use one in competitive matches. Invariably the breed proves to lack the dedication, temperament, and fortitude of a proper battler and the attempt is abandoned.

The most heat tolerant and lightest mudsdale are the Australian breed. These pokémon have lighter bones and wider hoofs designed to help them move on sand and loose soils. They are traditionally covered in cloths on desert journeys to keep the sun from burning them while also keeping them lighter than if they were coated in mud. The development of paved roads in the outback has reduced the breed’s importance. A sizeable feral population remains around any water they can find in the range. Others have been crossbred with more traditional breeds like the northland and Belgian to produce heat-tolerant hybrids.

 

[Persephone]

Wigglytuff (Igglybuff, Jigglypuff)
Yoomtah yoomtah

Overview

Wigglytuff were first sighted in Germany in 1884 following an explosion in a dense forest. The first explorers on the scene found a large crater, meteorite shards, and a dozen lethargic and confused jigglypuff. The species rapidly increased in numbers over the next two decades. Their population growth was matched by their popularity growth: by 1903 they were one of the most common pets in the United States and Europe.

Wigglytuff are particularly strange because of how similar their diet and most of their organs are to terrestrial life. Wigglytuff’s elastic flesh and hypnotic voice and fur are alien, but they can subsist entirely off of fruit and have a standard mammalian digestive tract. Even their sensory organs and brains are more similar to lopunny than beheeyem or even clefable.

Wigglytuff’s friendly disposition and fairly simplistic care requirements make them an excellent introduction to extraterrestrial pokémon. Even non-specialists can appreciate them as cuddle partners and battlers. Take care to avoid their wrath and wigglytuff will prove to be invaluable companions.

Physiology

All stages of the line are classified as dual normal- and fairy-types. The fairy typing is uncontroversial as they are extraterrestrials with strong ties to the moon, a resistance to draconic attacks, and an affinity for fairy attacks. The normal-typing is disputed. Wigglytuff have some resistance to spectral attacks and a very wide elemental reserve, suggesting a normal-type. Their hypnotic voice and fur support a psychic-typing. The typing is currently under review by the Department of Agriculture. The lack of exceptional non-ranged ESP is the strongest against a psychic typing and has prevailed for the last century.

Igglybuff are a small, rotund pokémon coated in soft pink fur, aside from a small cluster of long black hairs on their forehead. Igglybuff are known for their large red or green eyes. They do not have a nose. While their mouth can appear small when closed, it can actually open up to an area of sixteen five square inches when inhaling. The pokémon’s limbs are very small for their size. Their movement is limited to rolling around or inhaling air until even weak limb movements can get them one to three feet into the air.

Igglybuff’s elastic skin and massive lungs let them bounce along quite easily. When they release most of the air in their lungs in one breath the wind can propel them further into the air. In addition to its elasticity, igglybuff’s skin contain pores that release a sweet and potentially hypnotic substance. There is some dispute in the scientific community as to whether this is true sweat used for thermoregulation or simply a release from a specialized scent gland.

Jigglypuff are larger and even more elastic. Their limbs are also proportionally larger than igglybuff’s to facilitate walking on the ground. Some specimens can grow to be eight times larger inflated than at their standard size. Jigglypuff can also vent most of the air out of their body and become nearly flat to avoid detection. They are much better singers than igglybuff. Some particularly talented individuals have obtained a twelve-octave vocal range and even become pop stars. These songs can be tuned to simulate the brain waves of deep sleep in their targets, knocking all but the most stubborn targets out in a few measures. Jigglypuff’s eyes glow when their song is being used for hypnotic purposes. The species can and does sing for reasons other than putting perceived enemies to sleep.

To accommodate their ability to stretch much larger than their minimum size, most of jigglypuff and wiggytuff’s organs are clustered around the skull. The brain and skull are also relatively broad and flat compared to most other species. The organs stay in the same place relative to the skull while the lungs expand beneath them. Their intestines are long and designed to fold and unfold with changes in size.

Wigglytuff have significantly longer and fluffier fur than igglybuff and jigglypuff. It is softest and densest around the forehead. Every spring the species sheds most of its fur and grows a new coat out. In more temperate regions their coat gets longer in the autumn to prepare for winter. Wigglytuff fur has a slight hypnotic effect that compels those who touch it to maintain contact. This applies to humans, other wigglytuff, and even pokémon trying to harm it. Wigglytuff can also sing with the same range as jigglypuff, although their pitch decreases slightly and they are less prone to singing without cause.

Unlike jigglypuff, wigglytuff’s eyes do not glow when they incorporate hypnosis into their singing. Wigglytuff’s large, expressive eyes also use another one of the line’s adaptations. Unlike most mammals, wigglytuff do not have eyelids. Their eyes are constantly kept wet by a layer of tears to wash away dust and provide a measure of protection from the environment. Even asleep wigglytuff’s eyes are wide open. Some trainers find this to be unnerving.

Wigglytuff have incredibly large lungs. Some specimens can inflate themselves to twenty times their standard volume. Wigglytuff’s brain is larger than jigglypuff’s and their organs fold less well, limiting their ability to become nearly flat. Their limbs are also longer, letting them move quite comfortably along the ground. They only regularly inflate to access fruit above their reach or to intimidate predators.

Wigglytuff’s resting size ranges between three and four feet. Their resting weight is usually around forty pounds. Wigglytuff can live for forty years in captivity but rarely live more than fifteen years in the wild.

Behavior

Several pokémon species have languages. A handful have even been translated into human ones. Wigglytuff are unique in that they seem to have multiple, mutually unintelligible languages. Some are melodic, some sound like harsh screaming, others still are spoken outside of the range of human hearing. At present six languages with an additional four dialects have been identified. Every region seems to develop its own culture of songs. Fads have also been documented, with some human items or foods becoming incredibly popular for a time before dying down.

Wigglytuff tend to live in collections of two to four adults and their igglybuff. The adults can either form a couple, two couples, or a polyamorous relationship with three or four individuals. Homosexuality may have been documented in the species, although it is possible that it was simply a strong friendship that was observed. Researchers are split on the subject.

Most of wigglytuff’s time is spent resting or foraging for food. Wigglytuff are primarily frugivorous and seek out tree fruits to eat. When they cannot find any at ground level they will float or inflate to reach them. Individuals have different tastes, but nanab berries and apples are especially popular with the species. Occasionally they will prey on applin or appletun to eat. Otherwise they are mostly a pacifistic herbivore.

Jigglypuff typically live alone around the edges of human settlements. They will often perform for humans or beg for food. If the audience is not sufficiently supportive, they may lash out. Like most fairies, the line have fickle temperaments and are prone to disproportionate retribution against those they believe have slighted them. Given their ability to make opponents sleep, jigglypuff can buy time to plan and execute revenge plots that would not be otherwise feasible.

Husbandry

The line are generally easy to care for as long as their emotional needs are me. Jigglypuff and wigglytuff are easily housebroken. Shallow water dishes should be provided whenever possible to jigglypuff and wigglytuff. Igglybuff will need to be fed from a bottle for some time. They are prone to drowning in even shallow water dishes. Older igglybuff will rarely need to drink at all as long as they are given plenty of fresh fruit.

Every individual will have their own favorite fruit. This must be provided in some form at least once a day. Failure to do so can lead to an explosive temper tantrum. Sometimes this can be met by flavored or dried food. Particularly needy specimens will require it fresh every day. Over 80% of the species diet should be made up of fresh, frozen, or dried fruit. The rest can be made up of leaves, vegetables, and insect mixes. Trace amounts of iron, aluminum, and magnesium will need to be inserted into the diet as well. This can be done through supplement powders.

All stages prefer musically inclined trainers. Singers are ideal, but trainers who can play an instrument or just dance along are also good. Igglybuff and jigglypuff will need frequent encouragement and praise as they master singing. Wigglytuff still need emotional support. Unlike jigglypuff, wigglytuff prefer to support one another through touch rather than sound or encouragement. Thankfully, wigglytuff’s fur is so pleasant that the trainer may come out more relaxed than the pokémon.

The line are known hoarders. Once they decide that something interests them, they will attempt to spirit it away to their stockpile of interesting things. These can usually be coaxed away gently after some time has passed. On rare occasions the pokémon will never willingly let it go. This is most common if it becomes a favored toy or comfort object, such as a blanket or small plush they like to cuddle. In these cases it is best to accept the item as lost.

Wigglytuff have become popular as an emotional support and service pokémon for children with developmental disabilities. Their hypnotic fur can help calm down and ground children in the middle of even severe panic attacks. Wigglytuff are also intelligent and social companions that can learn their trainer’s triggers and limitations. While they still have a ferocious temper towards those they believe deserving, wigglytuff can forgive slights from those it believe to be too immature to know what they are doing.

Illness

Because they have no nose, the line cannot inhale while they sing. If they must sing for too long without stopping, they will begin to turn red and ultimately struggle to remain conscious. The massive lung capacity of jigglypuff and wigglytuff can let them sing continuously for several minutes. Igglybuff must breathe every two minutes or risk fainting. This is particularly dangerous when jigglypuff tries to incapacitate a foe that either does not sleep or cannot hear. The jigglypuff can easily cause itself to faint from oxygen deprivation before it gives up on singing. Withdrawing the pokémon in these situations may earn its ire, but protect its health.

Evolution

Igglybuff and jigglypuff gradually evolve over time. Anecdotal evidence suggests that being around fairy-types and meteorite shards can decrease the time it takes to evolve. Battle experience does not have a significant effect on evolution times. Igglybuff usually evolve when they are about a year old. The formal demarcation line between igglybuff and jigglypuff is the development of hypnotic song. Jigglypuff usually evolve into wigglytuff when they are two to four years old. The demarcation line is the development of hypnotic fur.

Battle

Wigglytuff see some use in competitive circuits. They are durable enough to stay in play for a few hits. This gives them time to put opponents to sleep. Unfortunately for wigglytuff, pokémon have different brain patterns and require different songs to put them to sleep. Wigglytuff have some ability to passively learn what songs are needed, but this can take up to an hour. They must be prepared ahead of time for the enemies they will face. This still leaves them vulnerable to unexpected picks, pokémon that cannot hear, and pokémon that do not sleep. Inorganic steel-types can stay awake and outdamage wigglytuff.

Even if sleep setting strategies fail, wigglytuff are still decent. They can combine the move counter with their ability to inflate to turn them into punching bags like wobbuffet. Their broad elemental well and intelligence let them employ a variety of coverage or utility moves to assist the team or deal with the threat in front of them.

At the very highest levels sleep strategies are rare because they can be so dangerous. Most trainers overprepare for them with multiple pokémon able to use sleep talk and inorganic or phantom pokémon that can handle sing and sleep powder. Wigglytuff’s bulk and power are also far below those of the strongest pokémon in the world.

Wigglytuff are still quite good on the island challenge. Most totems can be put to sleep, making them a lot less dangerous. Their bulk and power are also pretty decent for the early and middle parts of the challenge. Only at the end will they begin to fall off as multiple supporting pokémon attack them as they try to put the totem to sleep.

When facing wigglytuff, be sure to attack fast and hard. Giving wigglytuff any time to sing makes taking it down in the long run more difficult. Staying far away while attacking is also helpful. Inorganic pokémon are its best counters. Deaf pokémon or those that can disrupt soundwaves can also shut down wigglytuff. In a pinch psychic and dark types have some resistance to the hypnotic effects of its song. Dark-types still have to fear fairy attacks, however.

Jigglypuff lack the power or durability of wigglytuff and must generally rely on sing and melee attacks to deal with enemies. Counter can be used for physical attackers that cannot be put to sleep. Some jigglypuff are fiercely competitive and can be surprisingly good. One even figured out how to weaponize the psionic energy used in rest to create a devastating short-range attack.

Igglybuff are not well suited for combat. In a pinch they can use supporting moves like wish or stealth rock, but they’re best not battled with at all.

Acquisition

The line are most common on Akala. The wild population there stems from released pets from Heahea and escapees from a former farm in the area. Igglybuff and jigglypuff capture is allowed with a Class I license. Wigglytuff capture is prohibited. This policy is designed to ensure continued breeding in the area, allowing island challengers to cheaply obtain a popular pokémon. Wigglytuff will not willingly part with a very young igglybuff but may allow trainers to face them in a proving battle to obtain an older one. Jigglypuff typically live alone. Singing demonstrations are more helpful than proving battles, but those can work in a pinch.

All three stages are frequently sold in pet stores. Abandoned specimens can also sometimes be adopted from shelters in major cities. All stages can be purchased or adopted with a Class I license.

Breeding

Wigglytuff select mates by touching them. If both are hypnotized by the other, they will be inseparable. If only one is hypnotized they will have to prove their strength and intelligence over time to be accepted. Sometimes wigglytuff collections can have complicated dynamics where one wigglytuff has two mates who refuse to speak to the other. Other three or four member collections have mutual mating or otherwise supportive relationships.

Wigglytuff tend to mate in the early autumn. Pregnancy lasts for four months at which point three to six igglybuff will be born. During the later stages of pregnancy the female will always appear slightly inflated to accommodate her womb. Heavily pregnant females will stop foraging and will depend on other members of the collection to obtain food for them.

Igglybuff do not nurse. In fact, wigglytuff entirely lack the ability to lactate. Young igglybuff are fed overripe or pre-masticated fruit. Childrearing duties are sometimes shared between all members of the collective equally. A four-member collection have also been observed each taking one of the four igglybuff under their wing as primary caretaker. Sometimes one member will refuse to do anything for another one’s children.

After evolution the new jigglypuff will be released to go on their own. Jigglypuff that attempt to return to their parents’ collective will be ignored or ostracized.

Captive breeding requires having a collection. Wigglytuff will not mate with pokémon they see infrequently. Interspecies breeding is possible. Female wigglytuff can have viable offspring with clefable, giving birth to a mix of igglybuff and cleffa. Male wigglytuff can mate with lopunny, cinderace, and eevee to produce offspring. Children born from lopunny and cinderace are almost never reproductively viable. Pairings with eevee usually produce viable offspring. Female wigglytuff can also mate with a male eeveelution. The species of the offspring will match the mother’s.

Relatives

Wigglytuff are most closely related to clefable. This supports the theory that wigglytuff are originally from the moon. Their internal anatomy, however, is closer to lagomorphs or rodents than most extraterrestrials. There is some speculation that wigglytuff may have originally been a terrestrial species that somehow made its way to the moon, interbred with clefable, and then eventually returned. There is no hard evidence for this theory. Wigglytuff genetics are particularly strange, mixing the bizarre snowflake structure of clefable DNA with more conventional nucleotides. Geneticists still do not fully understand their genome or how interbreeding with either clefable or terrestrial species is possible.

Three studies have attempted to figure out what terrestrial pokémon wigglytuff is most closely related to. One study posited that wigglytuff was a lagomorph like its internal biology and interspecies relationships would suggest. Another placed them as being most closely related to nidoran, using both genetic and anatomical evidence as well as nidoran’s reliance on meteorites to evolve. A third study determined that their closest terrestrial genetic relative was actually liepard.

For now, wigglytuff are grouped with clefable in the division Selinis. They are the only documented species in that division.

 

[Persephone]

Tauros | Miltank
Corniger domesticus

Nomenclature

Tauros and miltank farming is an insular profession with a great many terms specific to it. Some of these make it difficult to refer to the species in general. A mixed population of tauros and miltank is referred to as ‘tauros.’ The species in general is also commonly known as tauros, unless specifically referring to females. Tauros is also a specific term for the males, with females being known as miltank. While tauros and miltank are historically classified as two different evolutionary stages, they could just as easily be described as a single type of pokémon with significant gender differences.

The scientific name could ordinarily be used to clear up any confusion that could result from referring to both tauros and miltank as ‘tauros.’ The most widely expected scientific name, C. domesticus, is heavily disputed. Tauros consist of at least three subspecies (C. d. taurine, C. d. zebu, C. d. sanga) that have heavily interbred with each other, as well as specialized breeds that arguably qualify for subspecies status in their own right. The feral tauros of Alola are also distinct enough from other breeds that some scientists have proposed a separate subspecies for them (C. d. vancouver). All three of the most widely accepted subspecies are regularly kept as livestock, pets, or battling companions in Alola.

To resolve these issues C. domesticus will be used when referring to the species as a whole. Tauros will be used to refer exclusively to males while miltank will be used to exclusively refer to females and freemartins. “Calves” will be used to refer to young specimens instead of the still-disputed Calfpint. The three subspecies will be referred to by their trinomial nomenclature. Breeds will be referred to by the breed name (i.e. hecks for the heck tauros). The one exception is the Alolan wild tauros which will be described as ‘feral specimens.’

More specific industry terms to refer to age and castration status will not be used.

Overview

C. domesticus was one of the earliest large pokémon species to be domesticated. It is still a mystery how this was achieved as tauros can smash through most fences and routinely defeat the most common domesticated pokémon of the time. What is even more surprising is that this unlikely sequence of events happened independently three separate times. This gave rise to three subspecies. C. d. taurine, the tauros of East European origin, are best known for the ferocity of the males and volume of milk created by the females. C. d. zebu are the smallest and gentlest of the three subspecies. They were first domesticated in Pakistan and are still widely kept in South Asia. They share a common ancestor with C. d. aurochs. C. d. sanga were domesticated in the savannahs of Southeast Africa. They are descended from a larger and more aggressive ancestor than the Eurasian subspecies, although selective breeding throughout the millennia has made most breeds more docile than their European counterparts. African miltank produce the least milk relative to their size and food requirements.

The first tauros to arrive in Alola were gifted by European explorers. Because actual European breeds do not handle boats well, the gifted specimens were actually C. d. zebu. These founders would later interbreed with African and European subspecies to create the modern Alolan feral population. The feral population were originally protected by the monarchs of Alola. Even post-annexation hunting has failed to significantly reduce their numbers outside of Melemele.

The residents of Paniola Town became internationally famous for their skills working with imported C. domesticus. They established a major agriculture and tourism industry in the region that persists to this day.

All three subspecies are regularly kept in Alola. Tauros are powerful battlers that need very little coaxing to journey and fight. They are also kept on some farms for their meat and hides. Miltank are more regularly kept by farmers for their milk.

The species can be a good choice for most serious trainers. Those that want a challenge can attempt to raise a tauros, especially from the European breeds. Trainers more interested in having a ready source of milk may be more drawn to miltank. Most breeds of miltank (but especially the Asian breeds) can also make for good companions during and after the journey.

Physiology

Both tauros and miltank are classified as pure normal-types. The designation is not controversial.

Tauros are quadrupedal bovines with cloven hooves and three tails. Most breeds have long horns extending from the sides of their heads, although hornless breeds do exist. The size of the horns varies significantly between breeds with African breeds having longer horns than European ones. Asian breeds typically have the smallest horns. Most breeds also have three bony horns going up the forehead from between the eyes to the top of the skull. The Eurasian breeds often have manes of thick fur around their neck and upper torso. African breeds rarely do.

Miltank have several key differences from tauros. One of the most puzzling is their tails, or lack thereof. The vast majority of miltank only have a single tail compared to the three tauros have. Some breeds are also capable of briefly standing on their sturdy hindlegs, although they spend most of their time with all four legs on the ground. Selective breeding has also given adult miltank very large udders. Their ears are also longer than those of tauros. Finally, miltank usually have very small horns, although some breeds of miltank can rival those of tauros.

Coloration varies widely by breed. White and black are the most common colors for C. d. taurine. Red and brown are equally common for C. d. sanga and C. d. zebu.

Feral tauros are known for their comparatively small size and manes. They are typically black or dark brown in color. Feral miltank have smaller udders than their domesticated counterparts. Ferals of both sexes have longer necks and tongues than most breeds. The tauros have longer legs than most breeds. The miltank have very sturdy hind legs and are unusually good at standing upright on them. These adaptations help them survive as browsers in the forests and marshes of Alola. Most domesticated breeds are better adapted for life on plains.

C. domesticus are ruminates with a four-chambered stomach. Once food has been partially digested it will be transferred back to the mouth for more mastication. This can occur multiple times for particularly tough foodstuffs. As a side effect the species burps often. The methane they burp up has become a problem in mitigating climate change. There are some solutions, such as mixing seaweed into the diet, but these have yet to be accepted at an industrial scale.

Tauros weight and height varies dramatically by breed. The largest sanga breeds can be six and a half feet tall at the top of the hips. The heaviest taurine breeds can weigh up to two tons. More typical specimens will be five to six feet tall and weigh around one ton. Alolan feral tauros are usually around five feet tall at the withers and weigh about fifteen hundred pounds. Miltank are usually about 80% the height as tauros when standing on four legs, although they can be nearly as heavy. Some breeds can live for up to forty years in ideal conditions when not culled early. Feral specimens usually live about twenty years. Hormonal treatments that cause quicker growth and more milk yield typically reduce lifespan, although agricultural tauros are so seldom allowed to reach the end of their natural lifespan that data on the subject is mixed.

Behavior

Feral C. domesticus live in herds of up to twenty individuals. The strongest tauros is dominant over the herd and has his choice of mate. Outside of mate choice and occasional displays of submission, dominance does not actually appear to confer tangible benefits. Some miltank have even been documented rejecting the advances of the dominant tauros in favor of a lower-ranked male.

Dominance displays between tauros typically involve locking horns and attempting to overpower the other. This can result in cosmetic damage. Older dominant tauros often have large and badly damaged horns as a testament to the many challenges they have withstood. Miltank social hierarchy is based on the relative status of their mates. The most common submissive display is neck licking. Children will often lick their parents, mates will lick each other, and lower-ranked tauros will lick the dominant one. Captive specimens of both sexes will of repeatedly lick a respected trainer’s neck and face as a show of submission and affection.

For most of the year tauros are actually quite docile towards conspecifics and other species. The exception is when nursing tauros and miltank are present. Tauros and even miltank will lash out at anyone, be they pokémon, human, or animal, who comes to close. Usually they will warn off trespassers by whipping their paws around, bellowing, or stomping the ground. Sometimes tauros will not extend this curtesy before charging. Even tauros’ famed dominance contests rarely result in anything more than superficial damage. Intentionally harming an opponent leads to ostracization from the herd.

Tauros have earned their reputation from the circumstances they find themselves in on most farms. Tauros are often kept in small, frequently changing groups away from miltank and nursing calves. They seldom have the ability to wander where they please or have regular access to a mate. These situations cause stress and result in intra and interspecies aggression from tauros. The lack of socialization in a stable herd may also contribute to the problem. Tauros that are frequently battled with will also come to view any nearby pokémon as a potential rival and a threat that must be intimidated or injured.

Wild-born tauros that are treated well and battled with infrequently can be perfectly pleasant companions. Specimens raised in mixed-species herds are also usually calmer than those raised in more artificial conditions.

Feral specimens tend to be rather shy. When humans approach they will retreat deeper into the forest and attempt to avoid detection. This is a selectively bred-for response to the hunts of the last few decades of the Twentieth Century. Only the most reclusive individuals survived. Feral specimens may lash out if cornered, but can be gentle with lone travelers in their woods who do not cause them trouble.

The feral population may also play the role of a keystone species within some of their forests. They are large and strong enough to move away any small trees that block their paths. C. domesticus are also not the cleanest feeders, resulting in some of their food falling down to the ground where it can be eaten by creatures that could not reach or climb to it. Their droppings may also help fertilize the soil, helping alleviate the problem rainforests tend to have with low soil quality. Studies are currently underway to assess the ecological impact that the species may be having on Alola’s cloud forests.

Husbandry

Tauros and miltank are large pokémon with a calorically sparse diet. Lactating miltank must also dedicate energy towards producing milk. As a result the species tends to have higher care requirements than many traveling trainers are used to. Adults of the larger breeds can require thirty pounds of food and thirty gallons of water per day. Smaller breeds can require half or a third as much at the cost of power in battle. Tauros and miltank can be taught to act as pack pokémon carrying some of their food, but this can still be difficult to manage on extended trips in the backcountry.

What food is needed varies by breed and individual tastes. Alolan ferals prefer fruit, leaves, and some bark. Grazing-oriented breeds prefer hay, grass, corn, and other grains. All food must be checked to ensure that it is not moldy or rotten. Feeding food of a poor quality can result in health problems in the short and long term.

Some trainers have discovered they can get their pokémon free food by loaning them out as a lawn care pokémon while in cities. C. domesticus trim grass down to one to two inches of height and then stop. Manure will need to be removed from the property, but manure can also be sold to farmers and gardeners. Trainers with a lactating miltank can also sell milk to help offset the costs of caring for the pokémon. There is a small but steady market in Alola for tauros and miltank products made from well-treated traveling companions.

Well-socialized miltank generally get along well with teammates. They are social creatures that enjoy playing with or simply being in the presence of their friends. Tauros can be a little testy with teammates at first as they try and work out a hierarchy. Once the pokémon knows where it stands within the ranks things may get easier. However, tauros often react poorly to pokémon they believe to be weaker than them intruding on their space, food, or preferred toys. Tauros are still social and enjoy the presence of others so long as boundaries and rank are respected. It is easiest to keep a tauros when it is the weakest of the trainer’s pokémon. This is rarely the case in practice given the species’ raw power. For optimal socialization trainers may wish to consider having both a tauros and a miltank on their team. Both are powerful in their own ways and the presence of a member of the opposite sex will reduce aggression and anxiety.

C. domesticus generally relies on conspecifics to groom them. If there are no pokémon that will do so the task will fall to the trainer. Soft brushes are preferred. A brushing every one to three days will help keep the pokémon happy and bonded with their trainer. On hot days the species also enjoys being sprayed down with a hose or water-type. Most breeds can swim and some specimens will enjoy the opportunity. Others will see swimming as a last resort.

Tauros can be used as both pack and ride pokémon. Some species of miltank can be used for this purpose as well, although it is far less traditional. Be sure that the individual pokémon’s temperament and relationship with the trainer will allow for this work. Attempting to burden a skittish or standoffish tauros can result in harm to the trainer, the pokémon, or both.

Illness

As a domesticated species traditionally kept in relatively high densities, C. domesticus has a large number of noteworthy infections. The most famous of these is Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy (BSE), better known as mad tauros disease. The illness stems from a prion that results in degeneration in the brain, leading to personality shift, cognitive decline, and eventually death. There is no known cure. All infected animals must be euthanized under the law. Some trainers attempt to hide the illness to protect their pokémon. This is misguided and dangerous. Upon infection the pokémon as it previously was is either dead or dying. Even very affectionate pets can become aggressive. The earliest warning signs of BSE are a shift in behavior for no clear cause. Get the pokémon tested immediately if this occurs.

The most likely cause of BSE appears to be cannibalism. That is, feeding the species meat from other conspecifics. This is highly uncommon with trainers. On larger operations it was once common to feed meat in order to increase caloric intake and growth. The practice has since been curbed. The disease can also be spread between an infected specimen and another ruminate it has close access to.

Blackleg is another particularly worrisome ailment. Contrary to its name, blackleg has no consistent visible symptoms. Lethargy and anorexia can occur but are not reliable indicators. By the time the symptoms manifested it is usually too late to save the pokémon. It is also impossible to reliably ward against blackleg as it comes from ingesting bacterial spores while grazing. The disease is at least not contagious, meaning that the pokémon can be around teammates and its trainer before death.

Footrot, however, is what it sounds like. An infected specimen will begin to experience tissue death around the hooves, eventually resulting in lameness or death. The disease is infectious. Outside of exposure to an infected individual it is unlikely for a specimen to contract the disease. So long as all team members are checked for signs of rot before they are put on to the team infection is unlikely. The disease also escalates far more slowly than blackleg. Some specimens can live healthy lives for years or decades after infection.

Pinkeye is a common but not particularly lethal infection among C. domesticus. Flies carrying the disease will often harass the pokémon around its face, putting the infection into the eye. Symptoms include pus leaking from the eye and the eye swelling shut. Medicinal eyedrops can cure the infection within a few days.

Evolution

At present no evolutionary stages are recognized. This may be changed in the future as young tauros and miltank are quite similar in appearance, aside from the relative strength of their hind legs. Newborn specimens of either sex lack teats or horns. The females will develop teats as they mature. Both sexes of most breeds will develop horns as they grow, although the males will develop much larger ones.

Battle

Tauros do one thing and they are quite good at it. They are strong physical attackers that charge down opponents before hitting them with a powerful contact move like body slam, giga impact, iron head, throat chop, or close combat. Tauros have a wide but shallow elemental pool, allowing them to use moves like thunderbolt and flamethrower against flying opponents they can not otherwise hits. These will not be strong attacks but they do prevent them from being totally helpless in bad matchups.

Tauros are consistently popular in lower-level competitive circuits but are usually absent at the highest levels. Despite their relative power, speed, and ease of care, professional trainers with multimillion dollar budgets can usually afford to purchase or seek out a more consistent pokémon. Still, some trainers have used tauros at even the highest levels to some success. Some breeds can reach speeds of forty miles an hour while weighing well over a ton. Few pokémon enjoy taking hits from such a pokémon. However, tauros are not particularly durable themselves. Their size and musculature keeps them from being true glass cannons, but in the highest echelons they cannot reliably take a hit from many offensive powerhouses.

Miltank lack the speed or raw power of tauros. They make up for it in durability and utility. Miltank have thick bones and their organs are protected by thick layers of fat and muscle. Their milk also has short-term regenerative properties. Lactating miltank can absorb their own milk into the rest of their body as needed to keep themselves healthy. Heal bell can also ward off status conditions and heal allies. Curse further slows them down but lets miltank abuse their durability and healing to grow stronger and harder to hurt over time. Miltank also have excellent elemental resistance, particularly against fire and ice, helping them sponge elemental attacks while they boost their physical power and durability. Their lack of speed can then be mitigated by bulldoze or rollout.

None of this is enough to give miltank much use among ranked trainers, especially since it competes with blissey and snorlax for a role as a durable normal-type. Miltank are less passive than blissey and much cheaper to care for than snorlax, giving them at least a niche. Two ranked trainers use one in at least 10% of their official matches.

Miltank and tauros age at a good rate for the island challenge. Specimens caught young at the challenge’s start will have reached maturity by the time of the third or fourth island. Adult tauros and mlitank are more than capable of holding their own until the end of the challenge. Only the most durable pokémon can tank hits from tauros. On the island challenge miltank are less straightforward to use and seldom reach the same effectiveness in the average battle as tauros. Their versatility and bulk helps them in stranger and more difficult matches, especially the last few trials where tauros can be mobbed and overwhelmed if sent in too early.

Acquisition

Tauros are the rare pokémon where captive-bred specimens are usually less friendly than wild ones. This varies by breed and the type of care they receive, but is reflected in their licensure requirements: tauros can be caught with a Class III license, but only purchased or adopted with a Class IV. Miltank require a Class III license to obtain.

Many farms in Alola sell tauros and miltank. It is not recommended to buy from standard agricultural operations as the pokémon may have health and socialization problems. A handful of specialty breeders breed and raise the species to be well-suited to battle and gentle enough to work with easily. The best of these farms are on Akala, especially in the Paniola Valley where C. domesticus care first took root in the islands.

Feral C. domesticus can be found in highland forests on Akala, Ula’Ula, and Poni. Capture within Poni National Park is legal without limit to facilitate the species’ removal. Restrictions on Akala and Ula’Ula vary by season and location but are also usually rather lax. The easiest places to find them there are Route 6 and the Paniola Valley in Akala and the area north of the meadow and west of Mt. Hokulani on Ula’Ula.

When obtaining a wild specimen it is easiest to carefully wait out in the forests for several days, occasionally dispensing sweet treats. Eventually the largest tauros will approach, often flanked by other males. If any of the trainer’s pokémon can defeat the tauros in a proving battle they will part with a semi-adult tauros or miltank. This does limit wild capture to trainers with powerful enough pokémon to take on a large and powerful wild pokémon and win.

Breeding

A mated pair of tauros generally stay together until either individual dies, at which point the survivor can take a new mate. After mating the two will mate. Gestation lasts nine months. At the end one to two calves will be born. The miltank will continue to nurse her children for another nine months. Some breeds reach sexual maturity at seven months, although they will not actually take a mate until they are weaned. In captivity it used to be common to artificially inseminate miltank as soon as they were sexually mature, even if they were still nursing. This results in a higher incidence of birth defects and abandoned children. The practice was eventually phased out as a result, although some farmers still do it from time to time.

Miltank’s milk is incredibly dense in calories, nutrients, and healing agents. Children of most species will experience accelerated growth when regularly drinking this milk. In adults it can be useful in small doses when hurt, but continued usage can result in obesity.

In captivity many trainers and farmers are more interested in the milk than the calves. Once a miltank has experienced true pregnancy or hormonally simulated pseudo-pregnancy they will begin to lactate. They will continue to lactate until they stop being milked. Trainers will need to milk their pokémon at least twice a day to prevent discomfort and medical complications in the miltank.

Do not attempt to milk a feral-born miltank.

Miltank have one of the more noteworthy intersex variations among mammalian pokémon. When twin miltank and tauros are born the female will often be an intersex freemartin. She will grow larger than other miltank and display male-typical behaviors, including mating with other miltank. Some freemartins take long-term mates, others simply perform mating acts with any miltank who is unmated and willing to do so. Freemartins are rarely fertile or capable of lactation. As such their main use in miltank farming is providing a ‘tauros’ to calm down the miltank without risk of unideal pregnancies. They can also be used to figure out which individuals are receptive towards mating, and then introduce them to the preferred sire.

Miltank and tauros can mate with other breeds. As a result many breeds are not strictly taurine, zebu, or sanga, but are some mix of the three. Sanga breeds have been especially diluted by interbreeding. They can also mate and have fertile offspring with almost every known bovine and some other ruminates.

Relatives

The ancestor of the original taurine and zebu breeds is the now-extinct auraclops (C. monachusilva). There have been attempts to ‘resurrect’ the breed by selectively breeding for traits contemporary witnesses described in auraclops. This has resulted in large, reclusive known as Heck tauros and miltank.

The original ancestor of the sanga breeds is Widtusi (C. viduus). It isn’t entirely clear how nomadic tribesmen managed to domesticate such a powerful and aggressive pokémon. In addition to pure Widtusi hybrids known as Cape tauros have established themselves on the savannah. Actual widtusi tend to live in forests and wetlands.

 

[Persephone]

Entry commissioned by langylee.

Bisharp (Pawniard)
Chatrang fischer

Overview

Bisharp have long intrigued scientists for their intelligence, bizarre anatomy, and pack hunting behaviors. Their closest relative, durant, are eusocial scavengers that closely resemble non-pokémon ants. Bisharp look like no animal in nature. Instead of the surprisingly decentralized nature of a hive mind, bisharp have strict command structures with a single female leading a pack of nine males. The species has also developed a reputation for being bloodthirsty and engaging in frequent border disputes with neighboring packs and other species. The tactics used in these hunts has inspired a variety of games across their native range. At least one captive bisharp has taken an interest in the games their species inspired and become grandmasters in their own right.

Bisharp are mostly better pokémon than their reputation suggests. They are eager battlers, usually obedient, and have relatively low care requirements. Bisharp almost never lash out at teammates without reason. The most famous and most deadly behavioral problem is their tendency to kill female trainers they deem to be weak and incompetent. Women and girls are advised against training the species unless they are either physically strong and willing to get their hands dirty or possess a brilliant strategic mind.

Physiology

Bisharp and pawniard are classified as dual dark- and steel-types. The ruling is disputed as they are insects, justifying a bug-typing. They simply fit the requirements of the other two typings better. Pawniard are almost always covered in thick metallic armor. Bisharp always are. Both stages are bloodthirsty, deceptive, nocturnal, and immune to telepathy.

Pawniard are wingless insects. Under their armor they have two main body segments, a carapace and a head. Their limbs are long and sturdy. They are strong enough for the pokémon to walk upright in armor at almost all times. Most pawniard are surrounded by metallic blades that form armor. A set of circular blades surround their midsection and longer blades extend from the end of the arms. Most of the head is coated in a thick armor plating with a large, sharp blade jutting from the front. Thin plate armor covers the limbs. Pawniard armor is almost entirely black, although red and yellow accents are not unheard of. Specimens crossbred with another species can have more varied armor colors.

The exact shape of pawniard armor depends on the bisharp in charge of the pack. Pawniard’s exoskeleton is relatively soft and misshapen as it first forms. The bisharp will carefully cut away unnecessary metal to create armor it thinks the pawniard needs. Some pawniard are better suited for agile strikes while others are more sturdily defended. Others have larger and sharper blades than usual designed to pierce or bypass the armor of other pawniard. Once the armor has been carved it will begin to harden to its final density.

Pawniard can emit a substance similar to grease that lubricates their joints. The chemical may also be used to mark trees and communicate with other packs.

The species best sense is their sight, courtesy of large yellow eyes. Despite having incredibly detailed vision that holds up at night and over long distances, pawniard can only see in greyscale. Bisharp may be capable of seeing some color, although this is disputed.

Bisharp have the same general body shape as pawniard, just larger and with heavier armor. The blades on bisharp’s arms are longer and sharper than those of pawniard and can easily slice through standard pawniard armor to score a kill. The arm blades also have a secondary blade jutting from the wrist. The pokémon has control over this blade’s angle and can lay it flat against the main blade or perpendicular form it. Their biological legs do not touch the ground. Instead, they link to a set of two blades that delicately balance them and can be used to deliver devastating kicks. The shoulder and hip armor is thicker and harder than that of pawniard. Even the ‘exposed’ portions of the exoskeleton have a metallic coating over them. The blade on top of the head also curves on top and comes to two points, one in front of the forehead and one over the top of the head.

Unlike pawniard, bisharp tend to have more than just black coloration. Their arm and leg blades are usually silver or white. The blade on top of their head is often a copper or gold color.

Bisharp usually stand about five feet tall, excluding their head blade, and weigh two hundred pounds. Some very large specimens have reached heights over five and a half feet and weighed two hundred and fifty pounds. Bisharp can live up to sixty years in the wild, although five or less years post-evolution is more common. Captive bisharp routinely live to be seventy years old as long as they are well cared for.

Behavior

Bisharp are best known for their strange pack behaviors. One bisharp lives alongside nine pawniard. During the day the pack relaxes by a running body of water, using stones they find to sharpen their blades. The bisharp also helps reshape pawniard’s armor after they molt (see Breeding). They hunt at night. Bisharp are excellent tactical and strategic thinkers that figure out how to optimally use their pack to kill either many weaker foes or one or two stronger ones. In Alola bisharp have been documented using clever tactics to bring down scrafty, raticate, toucannon, and oricorio. After the hunt the meat is divided up into twelve pieces. The bisharp claims three portions while each pawniard claims one. These numbers can be adjusted if the pack contains a growing pawniard who needs extra food for molts. The excess usually comes out of the bisharp’s share.

Growing pawniard require metal in their diet. Pawniard will often spend some of the days venturing into caves in search of anything they can mine. Bisharp will sometimes plan raids on human settlements to steal metal. On at least one occasion they have stolen portions of the fence enclosing Ula’Ula Meadow, letting raticate in until the segment can be replaced. Adding more electrical wires has not stopped these raids. If anything, it may have encouraged them by presenting the bisharp with more interesting materials to plunder.

Bisharp packs that begin to compete for food and resources will organize a ritual war. The two packs will enter formation, with two pawniard on either side of the bisharp and five pawniard in a line in front of them. The pack’s lines will face each other head on and a battle will commence. The battle ends when one bisharp is killed. The winning side will take stock and note any lost pawniard. These pawniard will be replaced with the strongest survivors from the other pack. Any excess pawniard will be executed. The bodies of pawniard from the winning side will have their armor removed and repurposed. Their bodies will be placed into the river and left to drift downstream. The armor of dead pawniard from the defeated pack is removed and the bodies are eaten.

Husbandry

Pawniard and bisharp are natural carnivores. They can eat many kinds of meat products, ranging from dried meat to predator biscuits to some insect mixes. This still leaves one major problem: they love drinking blood. They do not exclusively drink blood like crobat, but they still get irritable and sometimes have joint problems if they cannot consume enough of it. Some specialty stores sell blood directly. Most pokémon supply stores will at least sell frozen blood, which is usually appreciated. Artificial blood products are also usually accepted, even if they are not preferred. In some areas the pokémon can be allowed to do their own hunting. Pawniard appreciate hunting alongside their trainer and team. This can be a good bonding exercise. Bisharp can hunt alone or alongside their trainer or teammates. As long as the pokemon are drinking enough blood water should not be required.

The line can easily be housebroken, either directly or through watching teammates. Pawniard are also quick to understand some words in the human language, especially those related to combat. They are less adept at other pokémon languages but can still learn. Unfortunately, bisharp’s voices sound like a mix between insect buzzing and screeching metal. Researchers believe they may have nuanced languages, but their harsh form of speech still leaves them unable to serve as translators with most species.

Wild pawniard devote a lot of time to keeping their blades sharp. In captivity they can do this with whetstones provided by their trainer or by finding their own to use when near rivers. Some pawniard have favorites that they insist on carrying with them wherever they travel. If a stone must be bought it is a good idea to bring the pokémon along to select their own.

Molting pawniard will require carving to prevent uneven armor development and ensure they can move properly. This is best done by a bisharp. Captive bisharp will often help out captive pawniard, even if they are not on the same team. Some wild bisharp will do the same, although they are equally likely to kill the pawniard for trespassing on her territory. It is recommended that trainers intending to care for a molting pawniard have a bisharp of their own.

Bisharp are highly intelligent. The biggest challenge with them is learning how to balance this while still maintaining authority. In the wild they plan out different battles every time they hunt or face an opposing pack. Research on captive specimens suggests that they are constantly sizing up everyone they encounter, friend and foe, and figuring out dozens of ways the battle could go. They are excellent at strategy-based games and these can be used as enrichment. Some trainers have found it effective to have bisharp help train other pokémon and assist in planning strategies for major battles. The language barriers can make this difficult, but bisharp are brilliant and enjoy chances to put their brains to use.

The catch is that bisharp packs only have one queen. Bisharp kill any queen who intrudes too far onto their own territory. Pawniard are inclined to obey trainers who act as their queen, and bisharp have difficulties accepting new queens. In particularly dire cases these frustrations may end in them killing their trainer. This is most common with female trainers due to pack gender dynamics—all pawniard are male and all bisharp are female. Male trainers are not seen as inherently dangerous to the bisharp, although they may have more trouble gaining the allegiance of pawniard. Female trainers will have an easy time swaying pawniard but find bisharp to be standoffish.

The easiest way to gain a bisharp’s loyalty is to prove not only to be a queen, but a better one than the bisharp herself. Being a master strategist is the easiest way to prove this. Fighting alongside their own pokémon is the second most effective. For this reason it is common to see bisharp round out the teams of fighting-type specialists who are already working out alongside their team. Bisharp also help cover weaknesses to psychic-types and readily get along with other pokémon who are eager to fight and learn.

The second easiest way to gain a bisharp’s loyalty is to prove to be a nurturing queen. Trainers who care deeply for their pokémon’s physical and psychological needs have an easier time gaining the pokémon’s affection. This is easiest on teams with translators, although telepathic translators will not be effective on the bisharp herself. Trainers with productive hobbies such as gardening, art, and woodwork can also catch the bisharp’s attention. Part of a queen’s job is to create and to watch over pawniard. Trainers who fit into this role will have a more fraught relationship with their bisharp than one of pure dominance, but can still gain her unwavering loyalty.

Illness

The line is not inclined to share injuries or illnesses. Anything that becomes visible is a sign of defectiveness. It is an invitation to enemies to attack and tends to lead to their sacrifice by the bisharp in the next territorial war. Even bisharp that become visibly wounded are usually shamed into resignation. As such both stages are extremely reluctant to share their ailments with their trainer. Insect medicine is also not nearly as developed as care for other kinds of pokémon.

Thankfully, it is difficult to seriously wound a pawniard or bisharp. They can regenerate minor damage to their armor and bodies alike. Just getting past the armor is challenging for most opponents. As long as they are not deliberately kept in for an extended period of time against foes that can hurt them, irreparable injury is unlikely. Basic potions and healing methods can patch up moderate wounds that the line cannot heal themselves.

Serious injuries will usually result in death. Pawniard will become despondent and occasionally commit hunger strikes when they are no longer able to battle. Bisharp will also enter a depressive phase, but they can find new purposes in creative tasks or less violent games.

The most common form of illness by far is pesticide injection. Be careful to keep bisharp away from regularly treated agricultural areas and to make sure any processed food they eat is free of preservatives that could harm them. Even standard insect repellent can be dangerous in higher dosages.

Evolution

In the wild pawniard evolve when there is no bisharp to lead them. The most common circumstance this occurs in is when the last bisharp is injured and resigns. This can also occur if the bisharp is captured, dies of illness, or if only the bisharp is killed in a territorial dispute. In these cases the victorious bisharp will take whatever pawniard she needs to replace her own losses and leave the remaining survivors to their own devices, with a warning to stay away from her territory in the future.

The remaining pawniard will confer and select one to evolve. They will then do so. Pawniard evolve via flash evolution. Sometimes changes made to her armor as a pawniard will remain or be exaggerated on evolution. In other cases, any changes from the default are reduced or eliminated. Scientists are unsure what causes this disparity.

Evolution in captive packs occurs whenever the bisharp is removed for any reason. This can make producing a steady stream of bisharp relatively easy and profitable, although the new bisharp often have difficulties adjusting to new trainers.

When a pawniard is the only member of its species on a team they evolve when they have obtained a great deal of combat experience. This evolution will usually occur long after other teammates have evolved. There is some dispute as to whether pawniard need to consistently be pitted against enemies beyond their strength in order to evolve or if this is just something that coincidentally happens around the time a traveling trainer’s pawniard gains the experience he needs.

Battle

Bisharp have straightforward combat capabilities. They have thick armor, sharp blades, and they know how to use them. Their elemental pool is both narrow and shallow, leaving their ranged arsenal weak and limited. Some can rely on more devious tricks like sucker punch or stealth rock, but for the most part they simply engage in melee combat with their blades. This does not make their battles predictable. Bisharp are clever and can use their natural weapons to down opponents that should be beyond their capabilities. Their surprising strength and tenacity has made them popular on the competitive circuits, occasionally seeing five or more ranked trainers use them at once. Their ability to shut down psychic-types also makes them popular in metagames where psychics are common.

Unfortunately, bisharp’s counters are commonly employed by professional trainers. Ranged airborne attackers can avoid most of bisharp’s hits and wear them down over time. Electric- and fire-types like vikavolt and charizard can bypass bisharp’s armor or turn it into a liability.

Bisharp in general struggle against powerful fire-types that can heat up their armor until it is actively damaging their organic tissue. Fast electric-types they cannot catch are also difficult to deal with. Even though their typing would suggest a serious weakness against fighting-types, those are actually some of bisharp’s best matchups. Bisharp are at their best against other melee attackers. Machamp and hariyama might be able to dent bisharp’s armor with a well-placed strike. They could also find themselves deceived, outplayed, and with severed Achilles tendons.

Slow walls, even physical walls, are bisharp’s easiest matchups. Bisharp can get in close, dance around strikes, and deal serious damage with their blades. Even tyranitar and aggron can be tripped up and worn down by an experienced bisharp.

If it is at all possible, keep a distance from bisharp and pawniard. Exploit their relatively low speed and inability to fight at range. Wear them down over time. Even getting close for a finishing blow is dangerous as bisharp are often known to feign weakness or injury when needed to get an enemy in close.

Bisharp are perfectly capable of handling the last few battles of the island challenge. Pawniard start off strong and are still at least somewhat viable into the third island, even without evolving. On the second and third island be careful in selecting their matchups. The fire and electric trials can be particularly difficult for pawniard unless they are taken on at the very start of the challenge.

Acquisition

Bisharp packs in Alola were first introduced in Route 17. They were originally kept as guards and a novelty by wealthy landowners in the area. Following the destruction of Tapu Village many of these residents abandoned their homes and moved to Melemele or Akala. These islands often had stricter rules against owning entire packs due to their violence and scavenging. As predators it was also feared they would pressure native species through hunting. At least three packs were left to guard their owner’s old estates until a more permanent solution could be found. In the years since they have expanded into the rest of Route 17 and at least two more packs have been established. Their expansion is slowed by conservation enforcement around Ula’Ula Meadow, the steep terrain of Mt. Hokulani, and the lack of running water in Haina Valley.

As invasive species the capture limits on pawniard and bisharp are relatively lax. Even the pokémon that were once owned by the estate they lived on are legally counted as abandoned and capture is allowed. Bisharp are usually willing to write off the loss of a pawniard without pursuing the trainer. So long as they are clever and powerful enough to take a pawniard without immediately alerting the rest of the pack, it is the trainer’s right to do so.

Bisharp capture is more difficult. The pawniard will attempt to defend their queen with lethal force, and the bisharp herself is unlikely to hold back. If the pawniard can be defeated and the bisharp captured, she will almost always assent to being commanded. These battles can be fought using the trainer’s entire team at once. Be warned that any pokémon that fight may be killed. Pawniard are also not above targeting the trainer directly.

Bisharp adoption is complicated. Pawniard can be released to the wild and will find an incomplete pack to join. They also will accept any sufficiently strong trainer who wants to adopt them. Most bisharp cannot be released as they will try to take over a pack from another bisharp, killing them in the process. As a result they must be rehomed when their trainer dies or can no longer legally care for them. Shelters are often unwilling to take in bisharp as they acclimate poorly to environments with no primary caretaker and no social constancy. Bisharp can also have difficulties accepting another trainer. Bisharp that need to be rehomed are often given to dedicated breeders who will then sell the ones that are strongest or most sociable.

Pawniard can be purchased, adopted, or captured with a Class III license. Bisharp can be captured or purchased with a Class IV license.

Breeding

Bisharp prefer not to breed. Their pack is most easily replenished by killing opposing bisharp and taking their strongest pawniard. In fact, bisharp with their own packs almost never breed. The only times they will do so are when they are at least one pawniard short and either cannot find another bisharp to challenge or believe defeat would be almost certain. In these events they will select a mate based on strength and genetic diversity. She will lay nine eggs thirty days later. Newly hatched pawniard do not have metal exoskeletons and are only weigh a few ounces. They will grow through a series of twenty molts. They only have organic exoskeletons for the first ten. After this point they will begin to grow metal armor. The pawniard will be fed metal after the molt and will be protected by the rest of the pack until it solidifies. Following the twentieth molt the pawniard will reach his final size and armor.

Most breeding in the wild is done by injured bisharp. When a bisharp is too injured to continue defending her pack she will resign and let the pawniard pick their own leader. Before she leaves she will mate with a pawniard. She will then find a secluded area with metal nearby and lay her eggs. The bisharp will do her best to defend and nurture her offspring. When the pawniard all reach their final molt, she will once again resign and live out the rest of her days alone. If she meets an unaligned pawniard she may mate with him and then raise another pack. In the unlikely event that she recovers she may challenge another bisharp to single combat for control of her pack.

Bisharp breeding in captivity is easier than in the wild. Injured specimens can be mated with a pawniard. She and her children are very likely to survive with human aid. Unlike in the wild, bisharp are often willing to mate again and raise another pack after their first is self-sufficient. She will then be wiling to part with her offspring and raise another pack. Some captive bisharp have raised as many as six packs in their lifetime before losing interest.

Bisharp have been documented occasionally expressing interest in mating with heracross, pinsir, and other physically powerful insect pokémon. They will not mate with durant despite being closely related. Their social structures are simply incompatible. Bisharp have been known to abandon offspring when the sire is of another species. The breeder should be prepared to step in as the primary caregiver if necessary.

Relatives

There are five species of bisharp. The one in Alola are the American bisharp. They are known for their pitch-black armor and relative caution when compared to other species. American bisharp prefer to bait opponents into attacking before reacting accordingly. Their armor is the thickest of any species, leaving them slow but durable in line with their combat style. Territory wars can sometimes begin with thirty minutes of the lines evaluating the other before one finally moves. Of the bisharp species they are most prone to deception and seemingly erratic attack patterns.

The fastest species Russian bisharp, C. kasparov. The species is almost entirely white and silver, except for their deep blue eyes. This helps them blend in with snowy terrain in the winter. Russian bisharp are the lightest of the continental species. They are known for being surprisingly fast and aggressive. Some specimens can run up to thirty miles an hour in short bursts. Russian bisharp also have long lifespans, with some surviving for up to one hundred years. These bisharp were the most common in past metagames. In recent years their dominance has given way to that of the third species.

The European bisharp, C. magnus, come in a variety of colors. Red, black, white, and golden are the most common, but some specimens have been observed with blue or green armor as well. Sometimes they sport striped patterns. Others are monocolor. European bisharp are the largest species and can grow to be up to seventy inches tall. European bisharp are versatile. Most master a number of combat styles. They will seek out other species and observe them in order to learn techniques of their own. In different battles they can fight like completely different pokémon, making counter-planning by reviewing old footage nearly useless. They are also quick thinkers and tend to take risks the other species would not, letting them end their battles quickly and decisively.

The oldest bisharp species is the Asian bisharp, C. wenjun. These bisharp have the brightest colors of any species. They often have bright red blades and black armor, although colors vary heavily by region and subspecies. There are different variants in Korea, Vietnam, Thailand, and India, each with their own odd playstyles and appearances. The Asian bisharp are the shortest, seldom reaching more than five feet tall. They are a little wider than the European and Russian bisharp to compensate.

The fifth species is by far the most different. Most bisharp cannot swim. They simply hold their breath and walk along the bottom of rivers when they must cross them. This precludes them from crossing oceans, making them unlikely to become dominant in archipelagos. The oceanic, Cuban, or Caribbean bisharp, C. casablanca, is the exception. The Cuban bisharp’s blades are made of metal. Their helmet armor contains some, although the bulk of it is organic chitin. The rest of their armor is a mix of chitin and wood. Cuban bisharp have smooth, deep brown bark. The bisharp carves the bark of her pawniard to match her aesthetic tastes, and the pawniard in turn are allowed to carve the bisharp’s armor.

The Cuban bisharp’s relatively low density lets them swim between islands. Their wars often take place near beaches or rivers, letting the bisharp factor the water into their strategies. Cuban bisharp have very long and flat blades that function as oars. While the species is popular among collectors for their distinctive appearance, they are seldom used by competitive trainers due to the lack of strength in their armor. The species’ ability to manipulate plants around them and use grass- and water-type attacks is not quite enough to make up for their inability to take serious hits.

 

[Persephone]

Masquerain (Surskit)
Aquacursor navigantis

Overview

In the modern era pokémon are often used as pets, livestock, laborers, and battling partners. While masquerain do see some use in battle and the odd bug enthusiast will keep a pet surskit, masquerain are far more commonly used for pest control.

Surskit primarily live in still, heavily planted bodies of water. They feed upon insects and insect larvae in their pond. It is rare for them to disturb humans, even in self defense. Both stages are also aesthetically pleasing. All of this makes surskit ideal for killing mosquitoes and their larvae in retention ponds, parks, and wetlands near urban areas. In portions of China and Japan it was traditional to dedicate a new garden by introducing a pair of surskit.

As far as bug-types go, masquerain are reasonably intelligent and fair decently in battle. They are by no means exceptional companions, but their fans have made them work into the late stages of the island challenge with creative strategies.

Physiology

Surskit are classified as dual water- and bug-types. Masquerain are classified as dual flying- and bug-types. Neither designation is controversial.

Surskit have a small head, thorax and abdomen at the center of their body. Most of these are coated in a light blue exoskeleton, except for a single green spike extending upwards from the center of the thorax.

Three sets of very long legs extend from the main body. These legs are coated in hairs that trap water and let the pokémon maintain buoyancy while walking along the surface of the water. Each leg also has a retractable claw located at the equivalent of the knee. These can be released and used to attack anything that gets too close to the main body.

Surskit’s upper mouth is made out of a tube-like segment used to inhale water. Filter-like appendages in the mouth catch any zooplankton. After the meal is captured the surskit opens flaps at the side of its mouth that let the remaining water escape.

The final adaptation that helps surskit thrive is a scent gland that can secrete shockingly bitter or sweet compounds. These can be used to repel predators and attract prey. Chinese natural philosophers once proposed that the bitter secretions were used to scare away birds. This is not the case. Birds have a very limited sense of taste and smell. They don’t eat Asian surskit because of the large spike on their back making it difficult and even dangerous to eat them. Their bodies can also look like a blade of grass floating on the pond when viewed from above. The terrible taste is designed to repel fish.

Masquerain do not have the long, spindly legs of surskit. Instead their formerly long legs turn into wings located underneath the main body. The front two wings have claws at the end and can be bent to allow the retractable claws in the midfoe of the wing to be used. This allows them to be used for either flight or moving food to the mouth. Masquerain have a more conventional mouth designed for eating whole adult insects or very large larvae.

Almost all of masquerain’s body is light grey to balance blending in with the water when seen from above and the sky when seen from below. Masquerain no longer secrete the same compounds as surskit as there is no need to repel fish or attract zooplankton.

The remaining two limbs transform into large pseudowings that form a large eyespot above the main body. The eye’s color and markings varies by individual, sex, and ancestry. The most common pattern in Alola is a set of concentric circles. The innermost circle is black, the middle is white, and the outermost is a vibrant shade of green. The pseudowings can also be used to stabilize flight while the front wings are used for eating.

Masquerain are incredibly skilled fliers with gyroscopic balance and a 360 degree range of motion. They can stop and change directions nearly instantaneously to throw off pursuers or feint an attack or escape. Without elemental assistance they can move at speeds of up to fifty miles per hour. When using quiver dance or agility they can reach speeds of one hundred miles per hour, although the specimen may not have full control and impacts at these speeds can be fatal.

A cost of this speed is that masquerain flight is very energy intensive. Even unboosted flight requires successfully hunting at least once an hour. Flight boosted by quiver dance or agility can require hunting every twenty minutes.

Surskit typically weigh about four ounces and have a body length, excluding legs and mouth, or four inches. They can live for up to three years.

Masquerain typically weigh ten ounces. They have a similar body length, excluding wings, and live for up to five years.

Behavior

During the day surskit take shelter with the rest of their ferry in plants near the edge of the pond. At night surskit disperse to their own territories, each roughly the same size, and begin hunting. Surskit eat zooplankton by sucking them out of the water. They can use hydrokinesis to form small whirlpools to guide zooplankton to their mouth.

Surskit are capable of communicating with each other by creating vibrations on the water at set frequencies. When something dangerous appears all surskit in the area will quickly be informed and take shelter.

When hunting, surskit will catch and eat surskit larvae. They will even eat their own offspring. Masquerain will also cannibalize any surskit or masquerain carcasses they come across.

Masquerain spend their days resting in trees. They prefer to hide amongst leaves or in other areas with decent coverage. Because they no longer emit foul odors they are vulnerable to being preyed upon by mammals reptiles, and larger insects while they sleep.

At night masquerain glide over the water’s surface in search of prey. They lay traps with slow moving bubbles and then corral insects into them, stunning their prey and setting up an opening for a kill. They can also use thin blades of air to knock creatures on leaves or tree branches into the water where they can be drowned and eaten. Some masquerain learn to use water jets to stun small birds and make them fall into the water.

Husbandry

Surskit are not particularly suited for life as pets. They do fine hunting on manmade ponds and can be an excellent addition to city parks or larger private lakes, but feeding and housing them can be difficult.

To start with, surskit are not very good at recognizing glass and plexiglass. If given a terrarium to live in the water must have dirt or plants at the tank edges to keep them from skating into the barriers.

Second, surskit’s diet can be difficult for all but the most dedicated of aquarists to meet. They must be fed from a bowl of water filled with a precise concentration of suspended brine shrimp. Too many brine shrimp and their mouth filters could get clogged. Too few and they may be unable to get as much food as they need. Some gardening stores sell brine shrimp with instructions on making surskit food.

Traveling trainers who attempt to raise surskit can at least be reassured that they evolve quickly.

Masquerain have their own care difficulties but are overall much better suited for life as personal pets or travel partners.

Masquerain can be fed whole insects or smaller portions of other meats. They must be fed hourly when outside of their pokéball and active, as well as immediately after any battles. When held in a stasis ball this requirement is decreased to once every six hours. During the day masquerain tend to be inactive. As long as they do not battle or fly they will not need to be fed from dawn to dusk. Water should be available at all times during the night.

Masquerain and surskit do not need conventional enrichment. Some trainers enjoy bonding with their pokémon through games or catch or by creating soap bubbles for the masquerain to interact with. One activity that has gone viral is interacting with wild or captive masquerain with consumer drones, which usually have a build similar to that of a masquerain. The real insects have been known to socialize with the drones, destroy them, or attempt to mate with them.

Surskit prefer to have other surskit, or at least other similar bugs, on the team. Masquerain are not as social and can actively attack smaller pokémon they are not well bonded with. They seldom take issue with larger pokémon, even apex predators.

Illness

Masquerain are hardy pokémon that seldom fall sick from illnesses. When they do it is usually from pesticides they encounter in their environment. These can sometimes be treated if the dosage was low enough. Sometimes they will be fatal or debilitating.

In the wild a broken leg is a death sentence for a surskit. So is a broken wing for masquerain. Both illnesses can be treated in captivity. The pokémon may not understand this and lash out when their limbs are restrained to prevent flight while they wing heals or an artificial replacement is installed.

Evolution

Surskit can go their entire life cycle without evolving. Generations can pass without a single evolution before the entire ferry evolves in a matter of weeks.

Surskit prefer to stay unevolved as long as conditions allow for it. Masquerain have a much higher energy requirement and the environment cannot support as many of them.

Evolution occurs when the water source the association lives on becomes unreliable. This can occur on bodies of water that dry up seasonally, if there is a sudden decrease in food, or if predation becomes a serious threat. The surskit will then gorge themselves day and night before retreating to plant cover to enter a pupal state. The new masquerain will emerge roughly eight days later and fly off to look for a more stable home.

On the island challenge surskit’s frequent movements usually convince them there environment is not stable. Evolution will occur shortly after. It is important to stay in one place and watch over the pupa during evolution.

Trainers who wish to prevent evolution should keep their surskit on one pond as often as possible and use a very small everstone brace when the surskit must travel for any reason.

Battle

Masquerain are some of the most agile pokémon the average trainer will have access to. They can use their speed as an opportunity act in a supporting capacity. Masquerain can unleash clouds of stun spores, lay down webbing over the battlefield, or set up with agility or quiver dance only to pass the boosts onto a more reliable teammate. Masquerain cannot take strong hits and are also not particularly powerful.

In practice masquerain compete with ribombee and vikavolt for a niche. Ribombee is also a fast, frail support-oriented pokémon. Vikavolt cannot turn as easily as masquerain but makes up for this drawback in sheer firepower. While masquerain are faster than ribombee and have a better supporting movepool than vikavolt no ranked trainer has ever used one. They remain uncommon in professional circuits.

In the early stages of the island challenge masquerain’s speed and decent firepower can let them dominate opponents who don’t have a homing move. Later on they will be forced to rely on sticky web and baton pass strategies to pull their weight. Trainers who want to continue using one can make it work, but more effective options exist.

Surskit are every bit as fast on the water’s surface as masquerain are in the air. This could theoretically let them do well in matches where a large body of water is available. Even in Alola this is somewhat uncommon. Surskit are also vulnerable to fish and birds in combat as their main defense, being difficult or unpleasant to eat, isn’t useful in sport battles.

Acquisition

Surskit and masquerain can be found in most retention ponds, public parks, and stagnant bodies of water in Alola. Capture on private property is not allowed without the owner’s permission. Parks generally set time or quota limits to ensure their population remains stable.

Surskit and masquerain can be captured with a Class III license for use by a tracking trainer. When used exclusively as pest control on ponds they only require a Class I license. Surskit can also be purchased from many gardening supply stores with a Class I license. These stores almost never keep masquerain due to the difficulty of keeping them in one place. Adoption is almost never an option as the release process is easy and encouraged to keep the mosquito population down.

Breeding

Reproduction occurs in the middle of the rainy season, typically around December or January. Surskit pair up seemingly at random. The female will then dive beneath the water’s surface and deposit twenty to thirty eggs on a submerged root or tree branch. Neither parent will do any more parenting after this.

Newly hatched surskit go through five nymphal stages. These are essentially identical to adults, just smaller and with a darker color. Adulthood is reached after two months.

Surskit are relatively easy to breed in captivity. After the eggs are deposited, they will be entirely fine with them being relocated or more closely monitored. Nymphs must be moved away from adults to ensure they are not eaten. Surskit have no loyalty to their parents and their parents will not care if their children are moved to a different pond.

Masquerain reproduction is much the same as surskit’s. It is more dangerous for masquerain to dive as it will leave them vulnerable until their wings dry. To compensate her mate will fly around the area while she dries and ward off any attackers. The pair will have no particular loyalty to each other after this event.

Relatives

Masquerain can be found throughout the world. There are over twenty species recognized. Not all will be touched upon here. All but two species of surskit have more standard mandibles for eating individual zooplankton.

The largest masquerain species is the emerald pool masquerain (A. gigas) of Southeast Asia. They can have wingspans of up to eight feet and can hunt the large airborne insects of the rainforest. Humans almost never encounter them as they prefer to stay away from forest edges. In spite of their size they are also quite skittish. Camera traps suggest they are more common than researchers initially believed, but deforestation and habitat fragmentation has left them endangered nonetheless.

The common Asian masquerain (A. aquacursor) is known for its stark white coloration and particularly vivid eyespots. They are a common feature in East Asian gardens. Because they live in a temperate climate they must hibernate in the winter. They bury themselves under leaf litter or hide in narrow crevasses while their metabolic rate plummets. The species has been deliberately introduced to several regions for their beauty, resulting in population declines of the local species and genetic mixing. A concerted effort was made to remove them from Alola in the 1990s.

Ruby masquerain (R. harbron) are found in the American Southwest and Anahuac. They are one of the largest species with wingspans of up to six feet. Ruby masquerain have vivid colors. The surskit are an iridescent green and the masquerain are a vibrant red. Ruby surskit also dive for their food more than other species and prefer to snatch small fish and invertebrates out of the water rather than passively filtering for them. Male surskit also carry their eggs on their back until hatching. Most surskit eventually evolve given the ephemeral nature of water in the desert. The masquerain are known for using their superior speed and large mandibles to rush down slower birds in midair. When endangered they can fly low to the ground and whip up a cloud of sand to cover their escape.

The strangest species is the one Alola’s are descended from, the pelagic surskit (A. challenger). Pelagic surskit are only found eighty or more miles from the coast. They do not have nearly as prominent a spine as other surskit because they rarely encounter birds in the middle of the ocean. Instead of mandibles they developed a specialized feeding tube and filters to suck zooplankton directly out of the water column. Because the ocean is not ephemeral the surskit never evolve. Captive specimens have occasionally evolved into masquerain, but the masquerain all die within a few months. The pelagic masquerain was not described by science until the Challenger Expedition in the 19th Century. The species fares poorly in captivity and is still not well understood. Field observations are also difficult due to their highly dispersed population, low population densities, and the remoteness of their habitat.

 

[Persephone]

Hello there. Throughout the month of July there will be a bonus poll for a new entry of this fic. The options are Alcremie, Charizard, Rotom, and Typhlosion. Where do you vote? Here. In the Broken Things thread. In the World Myth Encyclopedia thread. Every 100 words left on a review of those three stories will earn one vote. You can cast the vote in the thread, via PM, or on discord. Let me know if you have any questions.