Pokémon The Alola Pokedex

[Persephone]

Braviary (Rufflet)
Magnalis bellicus

Overview

Coastal braviary are the second-heaviest raptor in the world. They are renowned throughout their range as either war gods themselves or the servants of one. Several of the greatest heroes and warriors of ages past were said to ride a braviary into battle. In the medieval era they were revered for their ability to crush plate metal.

The modern era has not been quite so kind to braviary. The birds often defend their coastal homes to the death. In the past this served them quite well as no one picked a fight with them. Now that humans have the tools to eventually win and the desire to build large coastal cities many braviary have been killed in battle and pushed out of much of their former range. The decline in their prey, large marine pokémon, has also hit them hard. DDT was the final blow that almost drove them and most other raptors to extinction. While conservation programs in Europe, Russia, Canada, and the United States have led to a rebound in their numbers, braviary have yet to rise back to their former glory.

Trainers on the island challenge should be advised that for all of braviary’s power they are still not recommended. Braviary themselves are very reluctant to respect a trainer. Anyone who can command one in battle is almost certainly already strong enough that they don’t need one. While rufflet are faster to warm to humans and braviary are often willing to part with a chick, they mature so slowly that they will quickly become outclassed, only becoming useful again towards the end of the island challenge.

Physiology

Both braviary and rufflet are classified as dual normal- and flying-types. Neither ruling is disputed.

Rufflet have small and underdeveloped wings. Outside of newly hatched birds, which have white down feathers, rufflet have grey, black, or blue feathers on their legs, wings, fan, and the lower portion of their body. Their head and back are coated in thick white feathers. Rufflet also have a red crest. All feathers but their down are waterproof.

Braviary are massive and powerful birds. They have long feathered legs and large talons. Braviary’s wings are extremely powerful and supported by massive muscles obscured by feathers. Between their strong grip and wing beats they have been known to lift objects up to twenty times their own weight. the bottom of braviary’s body is made up of the same dark blue feathers as rufflet. The white feathers are limited to their neck and the back of their head. A blue and red crest rises above their keen eyes and sharp beak. Braviary’s back feathers are dark red or brown. The tail is tipped in rings of yellow and blue feathers. Scar tissue does not grow feathers. This makes it visually obvious how many scars a braviary has accumulated.

Braviary can reach wingspans of eleven feet and weights of fifty-five pounds. They can live for up to ninety years.

Behavior

Braviary companies have rather strict hierarchies with one bird in charge and the rest generally subordinate. The exact structure can be fluid across time as subordinate birds challenge the ones above them to battle. Successful challengers can claim the spot of the challenged. The challenged bird is not always obligated to accept the challenge. A long record of past leadership combined with prior successes in hunting and defending the company can give a braviary enough social standing to reject challenges from birds with lesser records. A braviary declines a challenge without the clout to do so will be marked with dishonor and mocked by even subordinate birds until they accept the challenge and perform one great feat to restore their honor.

Braviary hunt large marine creatures in the seas around Alola. Sharpedo are their primary prey. Mantine and dewgong are also regularly on the menu. Juvenile alomomola, gyarados, and wailmer also fall prey from time to time. The raptor glides above the coastal seas keeping an eye out for prey. When a potential victim is spotted, the braviary glides higher on thermals and then begins a dive towards the water. The impact force will usually kill the prey. At this point the braviary will use its powerful wing muscles to pull itself and its prey out of the water and bring it to the company rookery.

The hunter will eat first. Then the rufflet will feed. Finally, the other adults will eat in order of decreasing rank. Sick birds will sometimes, but not always, be allowed to go before other healthy adults. This allowance appears to depend on the severity of the illness or injury and the rest of the company’s opinion of the bird. If any food remains it is donated to nearby mandibuzz prides.

Companies typically live near coastal cliffs where it is relatively easy to catch thermals and prey need not be dragged too far inland. There are typically ten to twelve adults in a company alongside three to five rufflet.

Combat defines the life of a braviary. Newly hatched rufflet immediately challenge the head of the company to a play battle in order to establish themselves. Members constantly jostle for rank. Wars are started with nearby braviary companies and other birds for territory and honor. When a braviary grows old and begins to decline physically, it seeks out a dragon and engages in one final battle as witnesses from the company watch on. The bones of their fallen comrade are collected and buried in a communal service. Other companies may attend the burial of a very well-respected bird.

There are two non-prey species that braviary have well-established relationships with. Vikavolt seldom bother braviary as there are far easier targets. However, it is common for a braviary seeking to improve their status to seek out and kill a vikavolt as a sign of their power.

Mandibuzz prides often live near braviary companies and the two frequently interact to exchange food, bones, and information. It was formerly believed that mandibuzz were the females of braviary, which in turn were held to be an all-male species. This is not correct. Mandibuzz are an all-female species but they do not mate with braviary or any male pokémon. Braviary females exist but are nearly identical in appearance to males unless they happen to have a scar in one particular area. The females are also, on average, ten-percent larger than males. The idea that they are all-male stems from human conceptions of masculinity and the extreme shyness of mating birds (see Breeding). Regardless, braviary are exceptionally protective of mandibuzz.

Husbandry

The mandibuzz-braviary relationship is relevant to husbandry. Braviary bond far faster with humans who present themselves in a stereotypically feminine way. The trainer’s sex is mostly irrelevant. Only appearance (long hair, jewelry, makeup) matters. Wearing black clothing is also a good way to gain a braviary’s begrudging trust. Ivory or bone jewelry can also help.

Gaining a braviary’s trust, even with mandibuzz imitation, is very difficult. Unlike most species, braviary do not associate the power and accomplishments of a trainer’s pokémon with the power of the trainer themself. Physically challenging a braviary is not recommended and mere attempt does little to gain respect. While it is legal to capture and possible to bond with an adult, only trainers with very high powered pokémon, a stereotypically feminine appearance, and lots of experience with bird keeping are likely to succeed. Even they will face issues of near-constant challenges to their authority.

The easiest way to obtain a loyal braviary is to train one a young rufflet. While easier than a braviary, raising one is still no easy task. The rufflet will expect to battle constantly. They will expect to have play fights with their trainer. Access to TMs and a clever strategic mind are the best ways to win over a rufflet. Despite their fearsome reputation, rufflet enjoy cuddling and being groomed by their trainer or other trusted pokémon. Braviary with a very healthy respect for their trainer will also seek physical closeness.

Almost all rufflet and braviary despise pokéballs as symbols of subjugation. While they will tolerate them for special occasions (such as battles and sickness), pokéballs will ordinarily be rejected out of hand, even at night while they sleep.

Braviary require a lot of flight time and exercise challenges such as lifting heavy objects. Rufflet are not skilled fliers but will still want exercise out of their sparring. Strength tests like breaking a board with a peck tend to work. Many rufflet enjoy the challenge of trying to sit on a durable but lightweight ball.

Both rufflet and braviary are exclusively carnivorous and will only eat raw or lightly cooked meat and seafood. They prefer seafood they caught on their own. Check the laws related to the hunting of large marine species as it is outright illegal to catch several of them and there are strict quotas on almost all others. Young rufflet eat meat just like their older brethren and will reject insect mixes. If a rufflet or braviary is on the team then feeding order will matter. If a pokémon was instrumental in a recent battle they can go first. Then pokémon should be fed in a set order that reflects power, seniority, or the braviary’s opinion on them. Curiously, braviary will get upset if they are fed before pokémon they see as higher ranked than they are. Do note that this ritualistic feeding order can anger other species. Rufflet are a little more relaxed about feeding order and will generally expect to be fed alongside other pokémon. They may still defer to allies that have recently won great victories.

Rufflet can be housebroken rather easily. Braviary will quickly learn what they are supposed to do but will often refuse to do it until sufficient respect is earned. Reinforcement, positive or negative, will be ineffective in training braviary. They will do what they feel obligated to. Nothing less and nothing more.

Illness

Many of braviary’s illnesses stem from one of their greatest assets: their very quick healing. Braviary rapidly regenerate from cuts and form a layer of scar tissue over the wound. This prevents the wound from becoming infected. If the wound was already infected bacteria and fungi can grow beneath the surface and cause serious problems. Bumble foot is the most common of these illnesses. It is marked by a hard bump on the braviary’s talons over a healed wound. These infections can lead to death and should be treated as soon as possible. Frequently check recent injuries for discoloration, tenderness, or swelling.

Avian pox is relatively common in braviary. This is marked by warts growing near the eyes and beak. While seldom outright lethal, prolonged illness without treatment can cause blindness or respiratory problems.

Braviary can suffer from a number of other health diseases. Head-bowing, sudden changes in the color and volume of crops, wheezing, and general lethargy are common symptoms. Almost all avian diseases require professional care and cannot be treated by amateurs.

Evolution

Rufflet growth is very gradual. In both the wild and captivity, it takes five to six years for a rufflet to evolve. Most rufflet given to trainers by braviary are around five years old. Increased combat does nothing to accelerate evolution. While nothing special needs to be done to trigger growth beyond adequate feeding, sleep, and exercise, even these things will not lead to a quick evolution. Unless a trainer captures a braviary or obtains a rufflet well before setting out on the challenge, they are unlikely to own one until the very end of their journey.

Braviary flash evolve, instantly quintupling the pokémon’s size. The remaining growth slowly occurs over the next four to five years.

Battle

Braviary harm their opponents primarily through blunt force strikes. A fifty-pound bird dive bombing their opponent from thirty feet can hit with enough force to knock out many frailer opponents. The rest can be scooped up in braviary’s talons, flown into the air, and dropped. Upon impact they will take another hit from braviary. This combo is extremely effective against relatively lightweight opponents that lack full-body elemental attacks such as flare blitz or discharge.

Even on the ground braviary benefit from powerful muscles and beaks. Many opponents can be overpowered and even outrun by a grounded braviary. A common tactic on the competitive battling circuits is to have braviary use bulk up or hone claws while circling an opponent that cannot hit them. By the time a proper bird check comes in braviary can take often them out in a single strike and finish the rest of the match on the ground.

On the island challenge braviary need few moves to succeed. Brave bird and super power form the core of an effective set. While roost and a boosting move are nice, they are not necessary to clear the challenge.

Rufflet is a fair bit tricker to use. Early on they have an advantage over other birds by being relatively strong and eager to train. Eventually those birds will start growing and even evolve while rufflet barely experience any physical changes at all. They also are not adept fliers. Rufflet must fight on the ground relying on relatively strong pecks and their absolute refusal to back down. While this attitude is helpful at first it will only get them hurt later on. For these reasons and others, rufflet are really only recommended for trainers who will have no trouble completing the bulk of the island challenge with five pokémon.

Acquisition

Braviary live on all four of the tapu islands and some of the smaller ones. They are presently illegal to capture on Ula’Ula and Akala to allow the populations to build back up. On Akala they primarily live on Mauna Wela and the mountains near the southern coast. On Ula’Ula they live on the abundance of coastal mountains and cliffsides, particularly around Mauna Hokulani, Route 12, and Route 17. While there are braviary companies at low altitudes on Mauna Lanakila, none live near the peak. Braviary on Melemele typically live in a stretch of coastline running along Route 3 down to Ten Carat Hill. Companies can be found along almost the entire coast of Poni Island.

Rufflet and braviary capture is best done by slowly approaching a company’s nesting area with one pokémon out. When the braviary take notice, bow your head and wait for a braviary to screech. Make eye contact with that bird as it approaches and prepare for a one-on-one battle. Afterwards the company will deliberate. Sometimes they will entrust a rufflet into the trainer’s care. On rare occasions one of the braviary will decide to go with the trainer.

Braviary and rufflet can be captured with a Class III license. Rufflet can also be adopted or purchased with a Class III license; braviary require a Class IV.

Breeding

Braviary have never reproduced in captivity. They have also been never captured mating on film. The exact mechanics of copulation are thus unknown. Around the mating season in early July braviary will get very defensive towards outsiders, including drones and camera traps that had been tolerated for months.

Eggs are typically laid in mid-February. They hatch around the first week of July which contributes to the unease braviary have around outsiders at that time. All braviary, male or female, help raise all rufflet. Good parenting is a way to increase social status. The rufflet are both strictly disciplined and doted on. They are given far more attention than most young birds. Sometimes a braviary will leave to another company that defeats their own in battle. Otherwise rufflet of both sexes stay in the company they were born in for life.

A handful of rufflet eggs have been taken from the wild and hatched in captivity. None responded well to humans. While they do imprint to a degree, they remain distrustful of bipeds until around their third birthday. Other birds or sock puppet braviary are now used as surrogate parents.

Relatives

There are four braviary species. The one in Alola, the coastal braviary, is the most migratory. They prefer to live in coastal areas with ready access to very large prey. Coastal braviary can be found along the coastlines of the Americas, as well as in a few places they have migrated or been introduced to and that have enough prey and space to live in. These areas include West Africa, some of the largest Pacific Islands, and, recently, parts of Europe.

Before coastal braviary moved into potions Europe they were inhabited by the northern braviary (M. steller). The species range originally spanned from Galar to the boreal forests of Canada. They preferred cool and cold habitats, including portions of the Arctic Circle. Northern braviary have telepathic screams that can stun and disorient rivals and kill small and feeble-minded prey. Their preferred hunting strategy is to fly tight circles just above a lake’s surface, killing as many normal fish and weak pokémon as possible before scooping them up and bringing them back to the nest. Companies will often cooperate to snatch as many of the fish as possible. In winter the birds will use their strength and talons to break the ice over lakes so they can hunt. Northern braviary have thick white plumage and glowing pink eyes. Some ESP-sensitive humans report seeing constantly fluctuating arcs of energy around the face. Northern braviary had their numbers decimated by DDT. Climate change has also made much of their former territory more amenable to other raptors. Northern braviary are even longer lived and slower to mature than their coastal cousins, making the recovery process slow.

In the past they have also been deliberately hunted by the Russian and Canadian governments. Some indigenous tribes have bonded with the braviary and earned enough trusts to use them as war mounts. During wars with the native peoples the colonial governments would sometimes poison fish to kill off the braviary and reduce the martial abilities of the native population. Coastal braviary are too prideful to allow themselves to be rode by all but the most powerful of humans, so the Canadian, Russian, and Scandanavian governments have intentionally released coastal braviary into the lands formerly occupied by the northern species.

The wetland braviary (M. columbia) live in the interior of the United States and Canada. They are much smaller than the coastal braviary and hunt in rivers and lakes instead of the sea. This greatly limits the size of their prey. Despite their lack of size, the wetland braviary are every bit as militant as their larger cousins.

This entry began by noting the coastal braviary is the second largest in the world. The largest is the titanic braviary (M. titanus) of Aotearoa. These massive birds can reach wingspans of twenty feet. Their companies have been documented hunting wailord and gyarados, although they prefer hunting dodrio. The species is usually solitary, although companies will form for the greatest of hunts. They nest on the ground for they fear nothing in their native range and there are few trees capable of supporting them. There were also no rodents likely to eat their eggs or antagonize the rufflet. The introduction of rattata, the usage of DDT, and the decline in dodrio populations for similar reasons has left the species on the brink of extinction. Only four wild specimens remain today, alongside twenty-two captive ones. Captive breeding has been mostly unsuccessful: captive birds refuse to mate and females often become distressed by artificial insemination, even resorting to cannibalism of their offspring. The species will hang on for a few decades due to their long lifespan, but their future beyond the current generation looks increasingly grim.

 

[Persephone]

Applin (Flapple, Appletun)
Divinimalum acutitesta

Overview

Myths of a source of knowledge and/or immortality guarded by flapple and appletun date back to at least 2500 BCE. In the earlier versions, gardens, mountains, or other domains of an ancient, powerful god were featured. Later on the garden morphed into a library. Several cultures made the myths into reality by building grand libraries and rearing applin in the courtyards. The most famous of these libraries were in Alexandria and Babylon, although others were built in Persepolis, Jerusalem, Rome, Nineveh, and Athens. In the medieval and modern eras few people seriously believed that an applin-guarded divine oracle or long-lost library was to be found. Still the lore around flapple and appletun as guardians of knowledge and health, respectively, ensured that they would remain common fixtures in universities and monasteries.

Upon being introduced to South and Central America, applin had to search for a new host fruit due to the initial lack of apples. They ultimately found one in the pinap berry. The descendants of the first applin introduced to the new world ultimately became the tropical flapple and appletun. While they were long banned from Alola due to their potential impact on the pinap plantations, the declining importance of the crop has led to a relaxation of the ban in recent years. Today a handful of defunct plantations have been turned into tourist attractions revolving around pinap-clad dragons.

Neither flapple nor appletun are particularly difficult to care for. While they are far from the most powerful of dragons, both are quite capable of keeping up through the end of the Island Challenge.

Physiology

All stages of the evolutionary line are classified as dual grass- and dragon-types. Applin’s grass typing is often disputed as their berries are merely homes and disguises, not a part of their body. Still, applin can release chemicals that manipulate the berry. Some scholars contend that appletun or flapple should have, respectively, a poison or psychic typing due to their venom and telekinesis. There are good cases to be made for these typings. Dragon-types are often capable of wielding many different types of elemental attacks, so there is a standing policy to keep the designated dragon typing when more than two typings are plausible. Grass remains the best secondary typing for flapple as they are physically fused with a plant. Appletun’s venom and poisons are plant derived.

Juvenile applin are small green lizards with short legs and a large pseudo head. Applin’s actual head is located below two large green stalks with eye spots. The eye spots are only capable of detecting light and movement; their actual mouth and eyes are located just below it. When predators strike for the head they are far more likely to hit the pseudo head than the actual one. Even by pokémon standards applin heal non-lethal wounds very quickly. Complete destruction of the tail or pseudo head can be healed within ten days.

Applin primarily live inside of their host pinap berry. Very large berries are created by appletun and flapple (see Breeding) for applin to live in. Shortly after birth applin will dig into a berry. Special chemicals secreted by applin prevent the fruit from rotting. Applin will fully consume up to five berries, steadily growing each time.

Flapple fuse with their final berry and use the chemically hardened peel as armor and a disguise. The pseudo-head stalks remain but are now primarily yellow with a small black dot in the center. This can make the stalks look like a seed. As with applin these stalks contain eye spots and are useful for detecting wind currents, but are not the true eyes. Those are small and located near the stalk’s base. A set of crown-like horns juts from flapple’s head. The tips can secrete mild bromelain-based venom that can cause chemical burns to organic material. Flapple’s feet each have hairs that allow them to grip onto trees and other substances. Each arm and leg is also attached to a broad but thin slice of the original fruit’s husk. The lizards use these segments to glide from tree to tree.

The segments are also good for exploiting one of flapple’s signature abilities: vertical telekinesis, or gravity control. Several pokémon have a unique sort of telekinesis that has the effect of increasing, decreasing, or even reversing gravity in a certain area. Whether this ability actually warps a fundamental law of the universe or merely exerts telekinetic pressure to mimic the effect is presently a subject of fierce debate. In any case the combination of lowered gravity effects and high vertical air resistance can let flapple glide for up to 700 feet.

Appletun are substantially bulkier and less agile than their counterpart and base form. Their heads are covered in a hard yellow dome that protects their brains, eyes, and ears. Only the strongest pokémon can pierce the dome outright, although some smarter pokémon realize that the bottom of appletun’s head is much less durable. The main section of appletun’s body is dominated by its massive swollen back. Much of the back is actually hardened armor. In stable environments some is usually left hollow. In areas with more variable conditions appletun will usually keep the otherwise empty spaces full of reserves of sugar and water.

Predators that can pierce or circumvent appletun’s armor must deal with their secondary line of defense: venom and poison. Both are bromelain based and extremely concentrated. Unless prepared in a specific way, appletun flesh can be lethally toxic to humans and most organic pokémon. Bromelain is a digestive enzyme that, combined with other chemicals in the acid, causes flesh to start breaking down on contact. Appletun can also spit this acid as venom and cause chemical burns or even decomposition.

Appletun are perhaps better known for a second substance they produce. Around the crown on top of their back appletun sometimes secrete sap. This sap is very sweet and, when diluted, is a common ingredient in high-end candies and baked goods. In higher concentrations it can also serve as a disinfectant. This, combined with appletun’s long lifespan, probably contributed to their mythical status as guardians of immortality.

Flapple typically grow up to five feet long and can weigh up to thirty pounds. Appletun grow up to five feet long and can weigh up to three hundred pounds when full. Flapple typically live eight to eleven years. It is difficult to gauge appletun’s lifespan because by the time one dies of natural causes the records of their birth have almost always been lost.

Behavior

Applin do very little. When one berry is almost exhausted, they will briefly leave their old home behind and find another. In the meantime, they digest the inside of the berry and produce chemicals to harden the outside, signal their presence to conspecifics, and prevent rot.

Flapple are arboreal year-round in the tropics. They rest in the high branches of trees at night and jump between them in the day to find food, escape prey, or play with other pokémon. Flapple are insectivores and use their keen sense of hearing to detect insect colonies inside of trees. The horn is then used to penetrate the bark before flapple lap up small bugs with their long tongue. Small bug-type pokémon can also fall prey, either by being physically overpowered or through a clever strategy. Flapple will often leap above potential prey while carrying a rock or hard seed or fruit. Their gravity manipulation powers are then used to launch the object beneath them and strike small or poorly armored animals or pokémon. The flapple will then descend to the ground, use their acids to start partially dissolving the meal, and then use their tongue and teeth to lap up the liquified parts and chew the remaining solid bits.

Once in a while a curious flapple will descend closer to the ground to observe humans or other species. Sometimes they play games with other flapple, pokémon, animals, or people. This curiosity and the ingenuity of their hunting method likely earned them their reputation for cleverness and knowledge.

Appletun live exclusively on the forest floor. Most of their time is spent grazing on grasses and shrubs. Despite being grass-types merged with a plant, appletun struggle to produce their own chlorophyll and prefer to steal chlorophyll or sucrose from other plants. When they are not seeking out food or water, appletun are typically sunning themselves or sleeping. At night appletun burrow a few centimeters into the ground to protect their underside from attack. In temperate climes appletun almost entirely submerge themselves in dirt during the winter. Once in a great while an appletun will engage with something curious in their environment. While they live in large social groups (especially when compared to the mostly solitary flapple), appletun almost never interact with nearby conspecifics.

Husbandry

Applin are best left undisturbed in a warm, moist area. They do not typically interact with their surroundings and are best left alone in the presence of another berry to move into as needed. Many trainers who own an applin leave them at a breeder until evolution as applin react poorly to pokéballs. The pokémon itself is not merged with the berry and every time it is withdrawn it is taken out of its food source and home. Flapple and appletun do not form any especially strong bonds with trainers who watched over them as an applin.

Flapple are very energetic pokémon with reasonable intelligence and high curiosity. This can make them resource and time intensive to care for. Still, they are highly unlikely to harm their trainer or cause extensive property damage. This qualifies them as one of the easier dragon-types to care for.

Stationary trainers should design at least one room to be flapple friendly. This space should have several hiding or climbing places off the ground at different heights. At least one fifteen-foot gliding alley should be established. A heat lamp will be needed. Natural or very good artificial sunlight exposure is necessary for regenerating their plant-based body parts. Ideally several toys will be provided and rotated out once the pokémon gets bored with them.

Traveling trainers or those without resources to build a dedicated flapple enclosure can still keep the species so long as sufficient play opportunities are presented. Visits to forested parks, especially ones the flapple has not been to before, are good for entertainment. The bunk beds in most Pokémon Center rooms can also keep a flapple occupied for a while. Games involving vertical and horizontal space such as games of catch or frisbee in a forested area or near buildings can also work. Some flapple enjoy climbing on their trainers. They should be allowed to do this for bonding and enrichment.

Flapple are not easily housebroken but can be gradually taught to use a litter box or pan. A large pan placed on the floor of a flapple enclosure is usually the best way to do this: the pokémon can come to see it as a game to hit the pan while gliding above it. At first they are often quite messy and a large tarp should be laid down over the pan. Litter boxes placed at elevation and designed to mimic a tree hollow are sometimes used. In any case it is easiest if another lizard teaches the flapple where to go.

Most commercial insect fixes are good for flapple, with whole bug-types provided as an occasional treat. They are greedy and will overeat if allowed to do so. Daily intake should be limited to 5% to 10% of body weight, depending upon how often injuries must be healed. Flapple are strongly averse to pokéball confinement.

Appletun are comparatively subdued. Enrichment can be limited to shell stroking and the occasional introduction of balls or other simple toys. Please note that sticky or sharp areas of the shell should not be petted. The underside of appletun’s head and neck are very good stroking spots for trusting appletun. Heat lamps and/or sun balls are highly recommended, although appletun are usually quite comfortable living outside in Alola. Fencing should extend beneath the ground as appletun enjoy digging and will sometimes accidentally escape from their home. Be aware that appletun will often attempt to dig burrows outside. Trainers concerned with pitfalls in their yard should fill any burrows with stone after they are discovered.

Most of appletun’s day in the wild is spent searching for food. Even in captivity appletun should be given a few hours a day to eat leafy greens or forage under the sun. At night pokéball use is perfectly acceptable, although some appletun prefer to cuddle with their trainers. Trainers wishing to do so should be advised that appletun will often try to burrow into the mattress at night. The pokémon are also prone to urinating or defecating whenever they want as walking all the way to a litter box and back can seem like an unnecessary hassle for a slow-moving species.

Appletun trainers will also need to consider where the pokémon shall live upon its trainer’s death. This alone can make them more of a hassle to care for than the energetic but short-lived flapple.

Illness

Most flapple illnesses result in daytime lethargy or a loss of appetite. If these symptoms manifest the environment should first be assessed. Has the flapple been unusually cold recently? Trips to the mountains or even excessive air conditioning can cause respiratory infections or other illnesses. Rectal tract blockage or pain from a recent injury can also result in a loss of appetite or apparent illness. If cool weather can be ruled out the flapple should be taken to a veterinarian at the first opportunity.

Most appletun problems stem from either respiratory infections or prolapsed organs. Respiratory infections often have visible symptoms such as discharges from the eye, nose, or mouth. Routine anorexia or lethargy can also be symptoms. Unfortunately, appletun respiratory infections can be difficult to treat and may not heal for several months even if caught early. In the worst cases they can be fatal.

Organ prolapse occurs when there is too much of a buildup of the species’ non-water-soluble uric acid. The hard mass of urea will accidentally press tissue or even entire organs out of the cloaca. These organs can wither or even rot outside of the body. Do not attempt to reinsert these tissues. Go to a veterinarian at the soonest possible opportunity. Keep the appletun in its pokéball as much as possible, even if they must be withdrawn for several days. In an emergency appletun can go for some time without eating.

Given applin’s general lack of visible behaviors it is extremely difficult to notice their illnesses. Even attempting to observe symptoms can cause undue stress. As such most applin illnesses become fatal before they are noticed at all.

Evolution

Once applin are sufficiently grown they enter their final berry. Rather than consuming it they begin to physically merge with the fruit. Over the course of several weeks the fusion will be completed before the new flapple or appletun emerge. New flapple appear when the husk begins cracking into distinct segments. The flapple will uncurl and rush off, the reptilian body now exposed. Appletun take longer to evolve. Their head and legs slowly begin to poke out through the newly hardened fruit. Even after they begin to move it can take months before the tail is fully developed and the shell reaches its final appearance.

Flapple grow for about eighteen months after evolution. It takes newly evolved appletun over three decades to reach their final size.

Battle

Applin should not be battled with. They find the experience jarring and are unlikely to do much of anything in their own defense.

Flapple are relatively fast attackers. When offensively pressured by an opponent they cannot avoid they will curl up so that their armor forms a complete berry-shaped shield. Unfortunately, flapple’s greatest advantage, gliding, is very limited in most arenas. Even between gravity control and dragon dance flapple can struggle to maneuver in the air. Clever tactics and a lucky set up can allow for sweeping amateur teams but at the professional level flapple struggles to find a niche against larger, fully flighted dragons.

Appletun is a solid grass-type wall. Their shell is remarkably resistant to even heat damage and very short cold shocks can be shrugged off. While opponents struggle to break through their shell, appletun can spew acidic spit to wear the opponent down or use recovery moves to repair minor damage. Despite their bulk, appletun suffer three major weaknesses. First, appletun spit can only go so far. All other offensive attacks are a little lacking. This makes appletun struggle in matchups against ranged attackers. Second, appletun are near helpless if something manages to knock them on their side. Third, appletun acid only works on organic pokémon. Ghosts and steel-types can present potentially insurmountable challenges to appletun. Still, against organic melee attackers appletun is a very solid wall that has seen some use on competitive circuits.

Acquisition

Wild applin, flapple, and appletun populations have yet to properly establish themselves. Currently the only members of the species in Alola are owned by game parks, universities and other schools, former plantations, and private trainers. Every institution has its own rules for capture. The Royal Trainer’s School allows students to capture a single applin for their own use. Game preserves often allow capture opportunities for a price. Plantations will usually sell them outright or offer them as prizes for paid competitions. For the average person routine adoption or purchase is the easiest way to get a member of the line.

Applin and Appletun require a Class I license to adopt or purchase. Flapple require a Class III license to possess.

Breeding

The evolutions of applin reproduce in two ways. The first is the creation of suitable berries. Appletun and flapple can chemically alter pinap berries with their saliva, causing them to grow far larger but more toxic. Appletun-nourished berries usually cause an applin who fuses with it to become an appletun. Flapple-nourished berries always produce more flapple. Flapple’s higher nourishment and reproduction rate ensures that where flapple are well-suited there will be a comparative abundance of them. A small population of the more durable appletun will always remain to potentially restart the species in the area if the flapple population dies off due to short term stress.

Flapple mate after elaborate gliding displays. The father immediately leaves. About six weeks later the mother will set down near pinap berries, dig a burrow, and deposit roughly a dozen eggs into the burrow before covering it back up. The new applin will emerge and seek out nourished berries to dig into.

Appletun mating is comparatively casual. The male will mount the female and insert his phallus into her cloaca. In roughly fifteen months three dozen eggs will be laid and buried. The male and female will take turns guarding the eggs until they hatch after another three months.

Flapple and appletun produced applin are nearly identical and can evolve into either, even if there is a much higher probability of evolution into their parent’s form.

Relatives

The temperate, Eurasian, or original applin (D. newtoni) are native to a stretch of land between Central Asia and Western Europe. The one notable exception is Kalos. During the Kalosian revolution flapple was placed on the state seal and were deliberately introduced to “People’s Orchards” around the region. When the counter-revolution came and the Enlightenment-loving revolutionary government was removed from power, the Archbishop of the Church of Life ordered the gathering of every apple, flapple, and appletun in the region to Lumiose. They were all held in one central pen and lit on fire in front of thousands of onlookers. The Church has stridently lobbied against any attempts to allow applin into the country again. In mainland Europe radical leftists still embrace applin as a symbol of their movement.

Temperate applin bond to apples over pinap berries. As a result they are slightly smaller and produce a cyanide-based acid instead of bromelain. They also only have a single spike on their crown. Temperate flapple dig underground and enter brumation in the winters. The appletun bury almost their entire body before hibernating. Temperate appletun are surprisingly cold resistant and can tolerate having the upper portions of their shell exposed through a Northern European or Central Asian winter.

Pinap applin, occasionally abbreviated as pinapplin, live in most of the tropical rainforests of the New World. They have also been introduced to India and Indonesia. Neither are so dominant in their new homes to present a serious ecological problem. The locals have even become fond of them as appletun’s sap is the cheapest available anesthetic in rural Indonesia and Malaysia. Their sap is also a beloved ingredient source in their original and introduced ranges.

 

[Persephone]

Stonjourner
Bell poculum

Overview

Much ancient wisdom has been lost to modern man. In ages gone by magicians wielded elemental energy using methods that we are only just beginning to understand. Chief among these mages were the fairy, ghost, and poison elemental bloodliners. The greatest of them could bind souls into clay and stone, alter the bodies and minds of their enemies, and open portals to other worlds. For centuries most of these claims were dismissed as embellishment, but some of them have since been replicated with technology, elemental bloodliners, and pokémon.

Stonjourner were essential to the greatest ancient rituals, from the ambiguously historical Ultimate Weapon of AZ to the binding of spiritomb, and opening of gates to the realms of ghosts and fairies.

This is due to stonjourner’s unique properties letting them act as batteries and circuits for elemental energy, safely harnessing more power than a single human or even pokémon could.

The exact rituals of the past are lost. Modern researchers and poison elementals have only managed to replicate very simple elemental tricks. The method of stonjourner’s creation is every bit as mysterious as the rituals they were used for.

Eccentrics, astronomers, and astrologers can find stonjourner to be good companions. They are quite loyal, docile, easy to care for, and can hold their own in battle. Elemental bloodliners of all types often appreciate their ability to temporarily enhance their bloodline’s powers.

Physiology

Stonjourner are classified as pure rock-types. Magic has associations with ghost-, poison-, and fairy-types Stonjourner also seem deferential to fairies and willing to form ritual circles for them. They are also strongly aligned with the moon and sun, traits common in fairy-types. Nevertheless, stonjourner are not actually proficient in wielding fairy elemental energy without assistance. They also lack the mischievous temperament of many fairy-types. It is unlikely they gain a secondary fairy-typing in the future. Stonjourner are similarly lacking in the common traits of ghost- and poison-types.

Stonjourner’s body is primarily composed of a trilithon with sandstone posts and a bluestone lintel. The lintel has a face made of white chalk that can move freely across the stone’s surface. The face can take on any pattern but is usually set to resemble a crude human face with eye and mouth markings. Smaller bluestone plates are stacked on top of the lintel. Small ‘arms’ consisting of three linked plates extend from the sides of the lentil perpendicular to the posts.

Stonjourner do not have joints or connective tissue. Nothing holds them together save their own terrakinesis. This gives them a wide range of motion. The bonds between the pole and lintel are strong enough to withstand several tons of force. It still takes several hundred pounds of force to separate a plate from another plate or the lintel.

Stonjourner are naturally slate gray throughout their entire body. Sometimes the bottom of the poles will appear brown as they spend most of their life partially buried in the dirt and mud. This can stain the exterior. Stonjourner sometimes have runes carved into their legs or projecting out of it in relief. The most common runes are axes and daggers, but lightning bolts, waves, concentric circles, wings, and something akin to a double helix have also been documented. Sometimes the runes are very small or faint. Other specimens have very prominent runes.

X-rays have revealed ‘veins’ of a metallic substance inside of stonjourner’s poles and lintel. There are also crystalline structures in the lintel and plates stacked on top of the head. What purpose the veins and crystals serve is presently unclear. Both tend to crumble apart shortly after a stonjourner’s death.

Stonjourner are one hundred and six inches tall and weigh 3,109 to 3,205 pounds. They almost all have uniform proportions with the difference in weight being due to the difference in carved and protruding runes as well as the origin and composition of any replacement material (see Illness).

Behavior

Stonjourner are usually solitary and sedentary in the wild. They prefer to stand in the soil and watch the movement of the sun, moon, and stars. On cloudy days when the sky is not visiblee they pay more attention to other organisms around them. They usually only move to get away from predators or natural disasters. Stonjourner can move quite quickly when threatened or rushed, but they usually move less than once a month.

Twice a year, on the summer and winter solstices, all the stonjourner in the area will move to a central location. There are usually twenty stonjourner per megalith, but sometimes deaths and abductions will temporarily or permanently reduce the number. All the stonjourner will form a perfect circle aligned to the sun at sunset on the winter solstice or sunrise on the summer solstice. Their plate arms will be linked together to complete the circle. When all twenty stonjourner are present they will stand almost exactly one meter apart from one another.

After the solstice has passed, they will disperse to their own sky gazing positions.

Stonjourner gatherings tend to bring together most of the fairies in the area. The combination of a large, perfect circle and a major celestial event is irresistible to the fairies. The fairy-types are also fiercely protective of the stonjourner as a result. Attempting to remove one can earn the ire of a nearby florges, ninetales, mimikyu, whimsicott, or klefki.

The gatherings in Alola take place in Ula’Ula Meadow. Old legends mention gatherings in the Haina Valley or at the base of Mt. Lanakila. The Ula’Ula Meadow is a much safer location for them due to the abundance of fairies keeping them safe from their most threatening predator in the region: garchomp.

The meadow is usually sealed off during gatherings. The fairies are at their most excitable, and thus most dangerous. There is ongoing litigation around the legality of the closure as certain mystic sects believe they have a religious obligation to attend the gatherings. Even if it becomes legal in the future the authors of this guidebook cannot recommend attending. Fairies in large numbers often attempt to one-up each other’s pranks. Gatherings of fairies are also commonly often used for bargaining. Exercise even more caution than usual when interacting with florges during these times.

Stonjourner typically make every effort to return to their home for gatherings. They may be willing to leave the islands for short periods of time, but when the solstices approach. they will run as quickly as possible in the direction of Ula’Ula Meadow. If they hit an ocean, they will become extremely agitated and attempt to negotiate their passage back to Ula’Ula. Trainers planning to permanently leave Alola should comment to semiannual trips back to the islands or release their stonjourner.

Husbandry

Stonjourner only consume anything when injured (see Illness). They do not produce waste or drink. They also do not draw energy from emotions or life force. While stonjourner, like most pokémon, are very slightly radioactive, it is not believed they are powered by a nuclear generator like metang and metagross are. At present it is believed that stonjourner survive off of elemental energy they are imbued with from battle or rituals. It is unclear how best to feed them in captivity. Because they rarely signs of hunger or fatigue, even after decades in human care, the issue may be moot.

Stonjourner do not have a great many other requirements. They prefer to stay still and watch the sky. From time to time they enjoy talking to their trainer and teammates through a translator, but their warped sense of time means that they can go months between conversations without noticing they were ignored.

The only teammates stonjourner dislike are large lithovores like tyranitar, rhyperior, garchomp, and metagross. Smaller lithovores will usually be ignored or reprimanded with a powerful kick. This does make them incompatible with some of the strongest rock-types, hurting their viability on monotype teams.

Stonjourner enjoy the company of extraterrestrial, fairy-type, or magic-adjacent pokémon. Clefable, as an alien, fairy, and magic-adjacent pokémon is their favorite companion. Golurk is also well liked as another magically animated golem. Golurk from Haina Valley have even been known to visit the stonjourner in Ula’Ula Meadow.

Trainers from an elemental bloodline will want to be more social with their stonjourner. If it becomes friendly enough with them, the pokémon may enhance their abilities. Psychic, rock, and fairy bloodliners may be able to speak directly to the stonjourner themselves. Others should rely on a translator pokémon. Primarina and florges are fairies and thus a good choice. Mismagius are a good backup translator for the magically inclined.

Stonjourner are usually fine traveling with humans as long as they are allowed to observe the sun and night sky as much as possible and go home for the solstices. Like most rock-type mineral pokémon they are long lived and low maintenance, if a bit lacking in personality.

Illness

Stonjourner can patch up most injuries by replacing the lost material with new rock. They prefer the new material be as similar as possible to the original but they are not picky. Stonjourner can use terrakinesis and an unknown energy manipulation technique to fuse new stone onto the original frame. It will take a few weeks to regain full mobility in new stone. They can usually reabsorb any stone that was cut away. Only pulverized or lost stone cannot be reintegrated.

Injuries to the lintel are far more serious than injuries to the plates and legs. Lintel injuries can take months or years to fully heal and the pokémon may be unable to move properly or attack during this time. Thankfully the lintel is reinforced with a constant stream of elemental energy, making it far harder than the legs to pulverize. The only observed deaths in stonjourner have been from serious fragmentation or pulverization of the lintel.

Finally, stonjourner can very easily be overloaded with elemental energy. They are essentially batteries and circuits meant to quickly charge and move charge between adjacent stonjourner. The most powerful rituals involved a constantly flowing circular stream of energy throughout the entire megalith. When they are alone this charging speed can backfire as the pokémon quickly absorbs more than they can safely handle, temporarily burning out and losing the ability to properly channel energy or move. They can slowly vent energy into the ground if injured in this way, restoring functionality without structural damage in a matter of hours.

Evolution

Stonjourner may have a juvenile form. Because none have been created in modern times it is impossible to be certain. The stonjourner themselves do not claim to have a juvenile form, but they are also reluctant to discuss their own creation. Golurk, the most similar known pokémon, does have two documented stages.

Battle

Stonjourner are very durable rock-types. Only the strongest physical attackers can break them and they can shut down telepathic attacks due to their incredibly strange nervous system. They are also quite fast and strong. Specimens can knock out some smaller and frailer opponents in a single shot. Unfortunately, they are very easily overwhelmed by elemental attacks. Most physical attackers still learn an elemental move or two to help out in tricky situations. Small, frail pokémon used in competitive circuits tend to be much faster than stonjourner as well. Their ability to power up nearby allies makes them somewhat useful in doubles, but in singles there is nothing they do that steelix, tyranitar, or aggron does not do better.

This is not to say that stonjourner are weak. There are far more purely physical attackers to be found on the island challenge. Stonjourner can easily wall and wear down many of these opponents. Just be mindful of matchups and keep things simple. A few strong attacking moves is all stonjourner needs. There is a good chance it already knows its strongest options upon capture given their very long lifespans.

Acquisition

The Alolan megalith contains sixteen stonjourner. Seven are currently held in captivity. Nine remain in the wild. Aside from one in Tapu Village and one on Mt. Lanakila, all of them live on Routes 16 and 17, as well as in Ula’Ula Meadow. They are fairly easy to spot given their large size and sedentary lifestyle. Tour guides will often point them out to anyone curious.

There are legal procedures for capturing one of the stonjourner. The Alolan Department of Cultural Resources (ADCR) must first be notified. An employee of the agency will supervise the catch, making sure the stonjourner wishes to travel. The trainer must also make commitments to returning the pokémon to the meadow during solstices. The agency can also veto trainers deemed likely to harm or improperly export the pokémon. Capture is only allowed for research purposes and for trainers on the island challenge. The latter will be expected to release the pokémon at the end of the challenge unless it gives its consent.

Capture of a stonjourner requires a Class I license. None are currently available for adoption. Purchase of stonjourner is legally complex and generally not worth the hassle when some are available for capture.

Breeding

It is unknown how stonjourner are created. The pokémon themselves give evasive, minimalist, and contradictory accounts of how they came to be. They were created by humans, allegedly, but it is suspected that fairy-types assisted. Some conspiracy theorists have suggested they were created by an extraterrestrial civilization. There is no proof of this. The few interstellar wanderers that visit the planet have shown little interest in the stonjourner. The most conclusive ‘proof’ is the species intense dislike of metagross, one of their few natural predators.

Stonjourner are almost certainly created in batches of twenty. The megalith’s members continue to reunite twice a year for millennia. Stonjourner will not join a new megalith, even if separated by an ocean from their home. One stonjourner has been the only survivor of their megalith for over two centuries. Every solstice they trek alone to a hill over forty miles from his usual spot.

The Alolan stonjourner megalith is particularly strange. Local legend places its origin around six hundred years ago when an ambiguously historical sorceress used one to create a spiritomb from a murderous kahuna and her soldiers. According to legend the sorceress came alone from across the sea, fought a monster that may have been a guzzlord, defeated and sealed the kahuna, and erected the wards around lāh Palace. The myths vary on whether she created the stonjourner or brought them with her. In any event, the stories agree that after eleven years in Alola she entered the Haina Valley alone and was never seen again. Her stonjourner remain. Alola’s stonjourner often reference ‘the pale woman’ when discussing their origins, but tell wildly different stories about who she was and what role she played in their creation.

Relatives

Golurk and spiritomb, as man-made pokémon merging magic and stone, are believed to be stonjourner’s closest relatives. Stonjourner do not possess ectoplasm and are not especially weak to ghost- or dark- energy. Their relation is more in their construction than their biology. As a result, it is difficult to determine stonjourner’s taxonomy. Some scholars lump them with porygon as purely artificial beings. Others put them with spiritomb, porygon, and golurk in a variant class of mineral pokémon. Others still hold that they are ordinary mineral pokémon related to gigalith.

All stonjourner across the world have similar initial compositions. They only vary in the minerals used to heal injuries.

 

[Persephone]

Primeape (Mankey)
Plenaira insulam

Overview

Despite being among the closest pokémon relatives to humans, primate pokémon are some of the hardest to train. This is because humans have similar anatomy but often radically different mindsets than most other primates. Simple human behaviors such as eye contact and smiling can convince primate pokémon that they are facing a challenger to their mates, food, or territory.

Primeape are the textbook example for these problems. Eye contact or bared teeth will instantly set them on the warpath against other primates, humans included. Even intrusion into their space or being near the pokémon’s typical feeding area can lead to fights. Because primape are strong enough to break steel in a few hits, these are not fights the trainer can win.

Primeape are not recommended for beginners. Experienced pokémon trainers with an abundance of patience, a gentle presence, and at least one other pokémon strong enough to shut down challenges might be interested in training one.

Physiology

Both evolutionary stages are classified as pure fighting-types. The ruling is not controversial.

Mankey have very thick fur that hides the general shape of their body and makes them appear substantially larger than they are. The fur on their paws and at the tip of their tail tends to be slightly darker than that on the rest of their body. Mankey have long and powerful limbs. Both their hands and feet have long digits that can be moved independently of each other. Mankey’s long tails are prehensile. Like primeape, mankey have large and prominent ears and pink noses that extend out of their fur.

In most ways primeape resemble a larger mankey. There are even scientists who argue that they should be merged into a single evolutionary stage. However, primeape have two notable external differences. First, primeape have pads over their buttocks referred to as sex glands. These are typically filled with blood and appear to be red. When a female ovulates, her pads swell to signal her willingness to mate. Second, primeape’s tails are proportionally much shorter than those of mankey.

Primeape are built to be flushed with adrenaline for long periods of time without serious damage. Their muscles repair themselves quickly, they have powerful hearts and lungs, and blood can be diverted from their brain towards their muscles without many consequences as a fight wears on. This allows primeape to continue fights or pursue intruders for far longer than any other primate pokémon species can. Primape’s brains are almost uniquely capable of operating with minimal blood flow for extended periods of time.

Contrary to popular depictions, primeape and mankey are usually quadrupedal unless climbing or trying to make themselves appear bigger to intimidate opponents.

Male primeape can grow up to four feet long from their nose to the end of their tail. They can weigh up to sixty pounds. Females seldom reach forty pounds kilograms. Both males and females typically live for about forty years in the wild or sixty in captivity.

Behavior

Primeape live in strictly patriarchal troops. One male holds absolute authority and sires almost all children. The other males and females are kept in line. Non-dominant males in the troop behave much like females and assist in the childrearing of the troop’s children (see Breeding).

Unsuccessful challengers to a troop’s dominant male end in the challenger’s humiliation and exile. Successful challengers kill the dominant male but do not kill his children to help maintain the loyalty of the new troop. Unsuccessful challengers will head out to find a bachelor troop or, rarely, a human trainer, and train in hopes of future conquest.

Genetic diversity in troops is maintained by “raids.” These occur when all male primeape in a troop attack another troop at night and drag female mankey back to their camp. In a rare display of female social power these mankey have the right to visit their old troop so long as they return to their new one by sundown. Mankey approaching evolution will sometimes steal the troop’s infants away for the day in mock raids. If the baby is killed or seriously injured during the course of the practice raid the offending male will be publicly executed by dismemberment.

Despite their aggressive reputation, primeape are almost entirely herbivorous. All troop members forage for grains, vegetables, and fruit during the day. Most of the meat they consume is insects and small non-pokémon animals. These hunts appear to be more for sport than nutrition. In times of extreme scarcity, the males may band together to hunt larger pokémon. Because food is abundant in Alola this has never been observed in the archipelago.

Unlike the other primates in Alola, primeape do not make their homes in the trees. Instead, they live on cliffs, either inland or by the coast, and use their long limbs and prehensile tails to climb up and down the rockworks. Because they do not eat eggs the coastal birds usually leave them alone. Primeape are only preyed upon by the largest predators in Alola. Only salamence and metagross regularly attack a troop in their home.

Like most primates, primeape engage in social grooming to build bonds and maintain cleanliness.

Husbandry

The difficult process of bonding with a mankey or primeape is detailed in the Acquisition section. This section deals exclusively with caring for a pokémon that is already relatively docile.

Captive mankey and primeape should be fed a mix of nuts, berries, tubers, vegetables, and grain. Fresh food is best but dried or canned food can work when on the trail for less than a week. Primate biscuits are relatively expensive but make for good treats. Peanut butter, honey, and commercially available cereals also make for good treats. Treats are best administered in puzzles, such as PVC pipe systems that must be manipulated in certain ways to get the treat out or by placing the treat in a frozen block of ice.

Both stages should be groomed at least once a day every day to keep them relatively docile. The pokémon will occasionally attempt to groom their trainer’s back and should be allowed to do so. Primeape are surprisingly fond of small cute pokémon and will frequently play with them. This also helps keep them calm. Mirrors and very durable toys can work as enrichment objects. Rubber and metal playsets can also work so long as the pokémon is monitored to keep them from trying to eat inedible components. Very friendly primeape and mankey can be played with using laser pointers. Curiously, wind chimes have a very strong calming effect on primape.

The biggest difficulty in caring for the line, and primeape in particular, is avoiding accidental displays of aggression. Primeape communicate friendly intentions through grunts and tongue clicking. These should be done often around primeape and mankey. Screams, barks, eyebrow raising, staring, eye contact, teeth baring, yawning, and hitting the ground signal aggression. Because barking is an aggressive signal it is best to not raise primeape and particularly exciteable canines on the same team. More withdrawn canines such as umbreon, and manectric can work as partners. Pokémon with a penchant for staring, such as mime sr., are incompatible with primeape.

Primeape are relatively intelligent and considerate pokémon when in a healthy relationship with their trainer. They are easily housebroken and will sometimes attempt to help with housework. While they can be trusted to babysit children and young pokémon, other help should be politely declined as primeape have a tendency to accidentally break objects.

Illness

Sick primeape and mankey often show similar symptoms to sick humans. Mild respiratory illnesses are best treated through humidity and Vitamin C. Anything more severe should be handled by a veterinarian as sick primeape can be incredibly temperamental.

The alpine primeape’s population has been sharply reduced over the last thirty years by an infectious venereal disease. Any male primeape that becomes infected with the bacteria will at minimum become sterile and will typically die slowly and painfully over the course of the next month. The governments of Nepal, China, and Tibet have prohibited the exportation or capture of alpine primeape since 1995 and have culled or removed most lowland primeape in the area to prevent the illness from spreading. The quarantine procedures have been successful, if controversial, as of press time.

Evolution

Mankey typically evolve around their second birthday. Unlike most species frequent battle does not result in faster growth rates. The formal demarcation of evolution is the first swelling of the sex glands.

Battle

Primeape, and especially the Chinese primeape, are ferocious battlers with very strong attacks. Outside of China they are still relatively unpopular choices due to the difficulty in training them. Other fighting-types such as machamp and hariyama can hit even harder and tank more hits. Primeape’s agility is impressive, but hawlucha are stronger and faster than primeape and have the ability to take to the air. Furthermore, even well-trained primeape are known to ignore orders during the heat of battle.

Hawlucha are almost entirely banned from most state-sanctioned tournaments in China. The ban, combined with the cultural significance of primeape (see Relatives), has led to primeape being reasonably popular as a revenge killer and wallbreaker. Their ability to jump rather high in the air and strike birds with a thunder or ice energy-infused punch makes primeape relatively effective anti-air pokémon.

Any trainer who can command a primeape is unlikely to need it on the island challenge. In any case, primeape and mankey function best when they hit hard and fast and never give the opponent a moment to rest. More complicated strategies are generally inadvisable because primeape may ignore critical orders. Doing anything other than attacking gives opponents a chance to exploit the pokémon’s relative frailty. Training should focus on power, jumping, and use of elemental moves.

Acquisition

Primeape are most commonly found on the coastal cliffs of Melemele and Poni. During the day they can be found in plains and forests near their home base. There are two approaches to capturing one. Recently evolved male primeape and male mankey close to evolution will sometimes challenge a nearby trainer to test their strength. If the trainer is successful, the pokémon will agree to come along with relatively little fuss. As male primeape are larger than females and this approach involves less resistance, it is the better path when possible. Unfortunately, it requires relying on a primeape or mankey to make a given decision.

Proactive primeape hunting must target females. This approach, as well as the first, works better for male trainers. If a female primeape is found hunting alone she can be ambushed. After a few attacks land, capture can be attempted. This simulates a raid and makes the female more inclined to trust their trainer than they might otherwise be. However, if the trainer plans to frequently leave the primeape’s home range they will break the implicit promise of social visits that underpin raids in the wild. This will cause the female to become extremely rebellious for several months or even years.

Calming primeape down requires acting in a dominant role. Many trainers mistake dominance for cruelty, which it is not. Trainers should set clear boundaries and enforce them through mild punishments. A stronger pokémon than the primeape should be kept on hand for at least the first few weeks in order to quash challenges. Rewards and attempted bonding should be more common than punishments. Eventually the primeape will give in and start accepting treats and grooming. Many trainers are initially scared that this is only an act of deception but primeape seldom bother to hide their true intentions. Rejecting attempts at reconciliation will only drive the primeape further away.

Mankey can be captured with a Class IV license or adopted or purchased with a Class III. Primeape require a Class IV license to obtain.

Breeding

Female primeape in heat will approach the dominant male and display her sex glands. Occasionally another male will elope with a female in secret. This is one of the few times that primeape engage in deceptive behavior.

Pregnancy typically lasts ten to twelve weeks at which point a single mankey will be born. All members of the troop collectively care for the children. Even the males are very fond of infants and will let the baby crawl all over them. Zoo populations have been known to treat small pokémon that enter their enclosure as beloved pets. Trainer-owned primeape often help raise smaller or younger pokémon and are even competent at caring for human infants.

Captive breeding is not recommended outside of zoos. Males that lead a troop tend to behave very aggressively towards all humans, including formerly trusted trainers.

Relatives

Buddhist monks brought Japanese primeape to Alola in the early Nineteenth Century. These primeape are native to the central regions of Japan. Unlike the Alolan population they tend to live on the walls of canyons and in the rocky cliffs near glacial highlands.

Alpine primeape (P. calidaqua) are native to the mountains of the Himalayas. They are well known for their fluffy white fur and fondness for bathing in hot springs. Far and away the calmest species, alpine primeape routinely venture into small settlements in Tibet. They are a tourist attraction due to their fearlessness. Locals are very tolerant of the pokémon and they have historically protected each other from threats.

Chinese primeape (P. simiarex) are the largest and most famous species due to their prominent role in Chinese folklore. Buddhist monks in particular have a long history of raising primeape. Managing to bond with creatures famous for their powerful rage was a sign of spiritual power. Conveniently, the primeape also made powerful allies in eras where Buddhism was disfavored.

Chinese primeape are classified as dual fighting- and fairy-types due to the variety of strange tricks they can wield, such as distorting the size of objects. Magic, while a nebulous concept in and of itself, is often associated with the Chinese primeape. They are said to have been the guardians of heaven and the peaks. Chinese primeape are one of the few pokémon known to practice agriculture and have selectively bred peaches for millennia.

 

[Persephone]

Delibird
Saturnalia julius

Overview

Delibird are known as compassionate healers, guides, and messengers. A variety of arctic peoples use tame delibird to communicate between tribes separated by inhospitable tundras or frozen seas. Their playful demeanor and colorful appearance led to them being adopted as messengers of The Northern Saint by the Church of Life. Although the Church has phased out delibird’s use as sacred messengers following recent discoveries, the birds remain a worldwide symbol of winter, gift giving, and holiday celebrations.

The species’ gregarious nature and relatively low power make them a poor choice for trainers on the island challenge.

Physiology

Delibird are classified as dual ice- and flying-type pokémon.

A thick coat of short red feathers covers most of delibird’s body. A “beard” of fluffy white feathers extends below delibird’s face. Two crests of very long white feathers extend above the eyes like eyebrows. Delibird’s beak is covered in white and red stripes. While not as big as toucannon, the beak of an adult is big enough to store at least two wishiwashi. The size and shape of the Alolan delibird’s beak is not seen in other species and is believed to come from interbreeding with toucannon. Delibird have yellow webbed feet.

While their wings are proportionally small, delibird can control their descent and maintain altitude to a degree. Flight is primarily used to get down from their nest to the water or to make a particularly powerful jump when scaling cliffs. Alternatively, delibird can get airborne for mid-distance low-altitude flights with a running start. Delibird are primarily aquatic and can dive up to one hundred meters.

Delibird are the only known bird with a prehensile tail. This is used to wrap up berries, fish, and interesting objects while exploring or returning to the nest. The tail of Alolan delibird is smaller than their arctic counterparts, but is still large enough to wrap up a wishiwashi or a few berries.

Adults grow to about three feet in height and typically weigh seven pounds. They have a life expectancy of six years in the wild or ten in captivity.

Behavior

Delibird are gregarious and live in carols of fifteen to fifty birds. However, they hunt alone. Most of delibird’s diet is made up of fish and invertebrates, including small water- and bug-type pokémon. They hunt by either flying just above the surface until they see prey or by diving and chasing prey underwater. Hunting takes up most of a delibird’s waking hours. The remainder is spent socializing with other birds and exploring their surroundings.

Even by bird standards delibird are curious. They are prone to making and playing games with other delibird and even other species, going onto land to try new berries, and using seashells and stones as toys. Their curiosity and gregarious nature leads them to approach humans and pokémon and exchange gifts or attempt to play. When pokémon are starving delibird, will occasionally share some of their catch with them. Sometimes they will even feed prey species. This habit combined with the relatively low nutritional value of delibird leads to the birds having almost no regular predators.

In more desolate and remote environments delibird’s toys take on a more sinister note. The birds often scavenge the corpses of dead explorers for new trinkets to play with. Relatives of perished loved ones often go out into the area to at least trade some of the deceased’s possessions for shinier toys.

Pairs and unpaired subadults sometimes move between carols on separate islands. Delibird can determine their location using Earth’s magnetic field and use this information to return to places they have been before.

Husbandry

Delibird captivity is best handled by well-resourced stationary individuals able to raise at least ten delibird at once. When held alone or in very small groups delibird grow stressed and begin to develop health problems. Climate control is also important to delibird and makes it very difficult to care for them while on the trails of Alola. Glacier balls help mitigate the problem, but delibird dislike pokéballs and will not tolerate even cooling balls for more than an hour or two a day. Delibird should be kept in quarters that are sixty degrees or cooler. Access to cold pools in room temperature areas can also satisfy the bird.

If a trainer wants to raise a single delibird than it is recommended to keep other birds on the team. At least three hours a day should be spent either directly playing with the delibird or being present while other birds play with the pokémon. Enrichment objects should be purchased frequently enough that the pokémon never grows bored with all of their toys at once. The pokémon will almost always want to sleep in their trainer’s bed. Mirrors make for good enrichment items that also have a calming effect on delibird held as individuals. Ditto are the best teammates for alleviating social stress.

About 80% of delibird’s diet should be made up of fish. Most fish are eaten whole, but individual birds may prefer certain species cut down to smaller sizes. The remaining 20% should be made up of insect mixes, shrimp, and crabs. Zooplankton mixes, while somewhat expensive, also work. Many large delibird breeding facilities keep zooplankton and crabs living in the diving pond for enrichment purposes. Berries make for good treats but should not be a routine part of the bird’s diet. Delibird should be offered a little bit more than they will eat. Only birds with a history of starvation will regularly overeat. Drinking water is unnecessary but occasionally used for either proper drinks or as a toy.

Climbing structures and water at least seven feet deep should be provided whenever possible. Most large pokémon centers have bunk beds and pools which can satisfy both needs. Delibird should be exposed to salt water at least once every two weeks to keep their salt glands functional. If this is not possible small amounts of salt should be added to their drinking water or baths.

Delibird can be housebroken, although the process usually takes several weeks. It is easier if another housebroken bird is already on the team. Toucannon tend to be bad influences on delibird and make housebreaking nearly impossible.

Captive delibird held in large carols are often used as messengers to deliver small packages and letters between cities and islands. In the winter they are often taken to malls. Their bright colors, curiosity, and relative comfort with humans make them popular with children. The best way to train a delibird to carry messages and small objects is for another delibird to teach them. This is not recommended for traveling trainers as the stress of separation can cause negative health impacts on the removed pokémon.

Illness

Delibird are frequent carriers of avian influenza. While the disease is relatively benign in delibird it can spread and do serious damage to other teammates. Vaccination is strongly encouraged. Bumblefoot is a more common problem than avian influenza in stationary carols. The disease manifests as sores on the bottom of delibird’s feet. The disease is caused by surfaces rougher or smoother than those found in nature. The best remedy for bumblefoot is preventive management: slightly rough surfaces should replace very rough and very smooth ones. This better replicates their natural cliff homes.

Angel wing is the most common health problem among fledging delibird. Sometimes feathers come in before the wing has fully developed. The weight of the feathers can cause permanent damage to the delibird’s wing. Fledglings should be routinely inspected and slings should be provided as necessary.

Delibird generally do everything in their power to mask their injuries and keep acting as if nothing is wrong. By the time any symptoms are visible to the trainer the problem is already serious and should be treated by a professional as soon as possible.

When a delibird living in a stationary carol develops a contagious disease or is about to be introduced to a carol or reintroduced after exposure to other birds, they must be quarantined. The quarantine process is unpleasant for delibird as they must be alone for some time. Taking multiple delibird on trips can at least allow them to be quarantined together. Otherwise mirrors or exposure to live or recorded delibird sounds can help calm the isolated bird. Toys, climbing structures, and a pool deep enough to swim in should be in the quarantine room.

Evolution

N/A

Battle

Delibird shows aggression by puffing up their feathers and making noise. If neither side backs down delibird employ bites, pecks, or weak ice attacks. While delibird are Pokémon, many baseline animals can beat them in a fight. As such only delibird deliberately trained to battle have any skill at all. Outside of scripted holiday specials no ranked trainer has ever been seen using a delibird.

Delibird have some use on the island challenge as arena controllers with spikes and icy wind. By the time the second island ends delibird will start to become less useful. Trainers raising a delibird should do so in spite of its power and not because of it.

Acquisition

Delibird can be found in in the cool waters around Mt. Lanakila and Kala’e Bay. Capture is currently restricted to Melemele due to recent declines in the Ula’Ula population. Captureis prohibited more than three hundred feet from land. Birds that do not wish to be caught will sometimes make a dash to the ocean when a trainer confronts them.

Delibird can be captured or purchased with a Class III license.

The birds can be purchased from established carols on Melemele, Akala, and Ula’Ula. Adoption opportunities are rare as injured or abandoned delibird tend to be donated to privately owned carols.

Breeding

While once popular with the Church of Life, delibird have been quietly abandoned as an official symbol after research found that roughly half of delibird are accidentally gay. The only way to determine the sex of a delibird is through DNA testing or minor surgery. Apparently delibird cannot determine the sex of other birds. Several zoroark, primarina, and psychics have translated delibird as saying that this is not a problem as the information would be useless; delibird do not know their own sex until they either lay an egg or fertilize one.

Delibird mate for life. Couples find a small tunnel in a cave or in a cliff face and set up their nest there. In anticipation of the summer breeding season all delibird undergo a full molt and are temporarily flightless and featherless. It is illegal to capture or otherwise disturb them during this time. Delibird’s summer plumage is more vibrant than their winter coloration, which is somewhat ironic given their cultural associations. The linkage of delibird and winter is because Europeans outside of Scandanavia only saw delibird when they migrated south to avoid the bitter cold of the arctic.

Fertile couples lay a single egg every season. Infertile couples stay together even after realizing their mistake but tend to help fertile couples in guarding their eggs and gathering food. The eggs are viciously guarded from all interlopers. This season is when delibird are most aggressive to outsiders. Capture is legal but discouraged in early May. Trainers should only enter Seaward Cave and the coastal caves of Lanakila during these weeks if they are prepared to be swarmed by angry birds. Eggs take forty days to hatch and forty days to fledge. Babies are typically abandoned by their parents thirty to sixty days after hatching.

Captive delibird breeding requires the provision of at least 1, and ideally 1.5, nest boxes per pairs. If at all possible an even number of delibird should be owned. Unpaired birds tend to become very aggressive up to the point of sabotaging other nests and destroying eggs. Incubation of eggs and hand raising of chicks is possible and the resulting pokémon tend to acclimate well to private carols, but not the wild. Delibird reared by their parents do adjust well to the wild and these chicks play a major role in restoring the Ula’ula population.

Relatives

Delibird species can be sorted into four groups.

The Alolan delibird is the only tropical species. It is not presently understood when and how delibird arrived on the islands. They were already present when Japanese settlers arrived and, according to Alolan folklore, they were present when the wayfarers arrived as well. Temperate delibird species do not migrate far enough to reach Alola and polar delibird would die from overheating well before reaching the mid-Pacific. To help cope with their warm environment delibird have relatively large wings and tails. They spend more time swimming than the non-polar subspecies as the waters they inhabit are typically cooler than the air.

Temperate delibird (Saturnalia sacerdotes) live year-round in the mid-latitudes of the North Atlantic. Carols are typically based out of an area infused with ice-energy or directly cooled by other pokémon. Members swim away from the base during the day to catch food and then return by sundown. Some temperate subspecies have barely functional salt glands due to swimming almost exclusively in glacial meltwater or underground rivers.

There are two subspecies of polar delibird (Saturnalia verumquod), one in the Pacific and one in the Atlantic. The Atlantic population tends to spend the summer in Iceland, Greenland, and other northern islands. They migrate as far south as Africa during the winter. Both polar delibird subspecies spend almost all of their lives alone at sea, only returning to land and their mates for a few months every summer. The Pacific delibird are less migratory with summer breeding occurring in Kamatchka and Alaska and winter migration bringing birds to Japan and Oregon. Some interbreeding with temperate subspecies has been reported.

The Himalayan delibird (Saturnalia paganus) is perhaps the strangest species, in no small part because they only live hundreds of miles inland and are barely able to swim. They are the largest species and have the most developed wings. Himalyan delibird take shelter on the steep cliffs of crevasses. While they do sometimes break into frozen or temporarily thawed lakes to fish, these delibird primarily eat small non-pokémon mammals, eggs, and plants. The pokémon are considered sacred wardens of the mountains and capture or export is strictly prohibited. The few captive specimens were injured or otherwise unable to survive in the wild. They are held in the Kathmandu Zoo on loan from the Nepalese government.

 

[Persephone]

Hawlucha
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Overview

For centuries Europeans were fascinated (and frequently defeated) by the hawlucha of the Nahua Triple Alliance and its successor states, including modern Anahuac. Despite the best efforts of American and European scientists no hawlucha ever survived for more than a month outside of Mesoamerica until 1987.

At the end of the Third Thanksgiving War, the United States conditioned peace on the surrender of one thousand hawlucha and information on how to care for them. Emperor Necalli IV agreed. He was subsequently executed for treason by the captain of the eagle warriors. Twenty-two years of civil war followed.

The hawlucha north of the border survived but never bred. In order to avoid another war, the captain of the eagle warriors made a public trip to Washington where he gave more information on husbandry and breeding. The captain proceeded to execute himself for treason during a press conference on the White House lawn.

Alola is fortunate enough to host one of the hawlucha wards established and overseen by the United States military. While they can only be captured after the island challenge is completed, they make invaluable partners for any trainers planning to challenge the Elite Four or otherwise go pro.

Physiology

Hawlucha are classified as dual fighting- and flying-types. While barely capable of proper flight, hawlucha are skilled at channeling flying elemental energy to perform moves such as sky attack. The secondary typing, while controversial, was recently reaffirmed by the Department of Agriculture.

Many bird pokémon are carnivorous or insectivorous. The rest mostly eat nuts, fruit, or nectar. Despite their reputation as fierce warriors, hawlucha are one of very few birds that primarily eat leaves. Most hawlucha live in the forests and mountains of southern Anahuac. The species is uniquely adapted to their habitat and diet.

Hawlucha’s crop, a pouch near their esophagus, is much larger than other birds. The enlarged crop combined with resident bacteria allow hawlucha to digest leaves. As a side effect of the bacteria and rumination process hawlucha almost always smell like cow manure. Unfortunately, the size of the crop means that the wing muscles must be smaller. The species compensates for their somewhat awkward flight with powerful leg muscles and claws at the end of their wings. They move through dense forests by climbing up and jumping between trees, with the occasional glide used to avoid a predator or cross a river. Hawlucha’s movements as closer to passimian than trumbeak.

The birds’ coloration has long confused scientists. Their flesh tastes unpleasant but is not outright toxic. Bright colors—white on the stomach and legs, blood red on the back of the wings, light green on the head, orange on the crest—may help signal this. Other features do not fit this theory. Like several insect species hawlucha have false faces that make them look larger than they are. A pink circle resembling an open mouth is located beneath the beak and their actual, small eyes are surrounded by rings of feathers designed to look much larger. These may be useful for scaring off rivals in territorial fights.

Hawlucha can reach weights of four pounds and heights of twenty-six inches. Little is known about their wild lifespan at this time. Anahuac’s records placed their captive lifespan around seven years in an environment of frequent battle. Hawlucha not used in warfare may live longer. However, hawlucha outside of Anahuac often die well before seven years of age in captivity.

Behavior

Wild hawlucha spend about half their day foraging for the specific mix of leaves and flowers they feed upon. Another third is spent sleeping. The remaining few hours are spent exploring the area, socializing with younger hawlucha, or engaging in intraspecies or interspecies showfights. Although they live in the dense forests of inland Melemele, hawlucha often enter Route 3 to challenge braviary and rufflet to practice matches. In the interior forests territorial and mating conflicts are resolved by battle. Neither fights with braviary nor other hawlucha tend to result in permanent injury. Hawlucha are known for their very precise movements and strikes that let them scar opponents with their claws yet do little more than superficial damage.

Beyond moving between trees hawlucha can also use their claws and jumps to navigate areas with many rocky outcroppings. The Bittern Peak area of Route 3 is practically a playground to them.

Hawlucha are very vocal birds. They are likely to be heard—and smelled—well before they are seen. Along with their physical fights with rufflet and braviary, hawlucha sometimes engage in singing contests with trumbeak. At least one hawlucha has been observed interacting with a brionne choir. Another was sighted in Melemele Meadow mimicking oricorio dances.

Hawlucha that have just eaten are temporarily much heavier and have difficulty moving, much less flying. They will perch in the tree they just ate from and sleep for several hours before either looking for more food, returning to their nest, or seeking out opportunities to play.

Husbandry

The main problem with hawlucha care is their diet. The birds will only eat the leaves of a handful of plants native to a small portion of Mesoamerica. The slow growth rate of the trees means that most leaves still have to be imported. Hawlucha eat about one quarter of their body weight every day. Their trainer need to have a steady supply of expensive and somewhat bulky plants.

Leaves make up 90% of a hawlucha’s diet. Another 9% is made up of flowers, which hawlucha are much less picky about. The last 1% should be fruit. Fruit preferences vary from individual to individual. Water should be offered at least once a day even if the bird does not always accept it.

Hawlucha need time to rest after meals. They hate pokéballs so this will need to happen outside of the ball. On the trail they are perfectly content to nap on their trainer’s shoulder for a few hours, although having a bird that smells like manure perched inches away from your nose can be unpleasant.

Beyond their diet hawlucha require much in the way of enrichment accommodations. The best partners for hawlucha are willing to spar and fight without risk of serious injury. Disciplined fighting-types such as the machop and makuhita lines make good partners as hawlucha learn to hit relatively hard and avoid hits in return and their opponent learns how to strike a very fast target. Song or dance focused pokémon can also make for good partners. Lilligant, oricorio, trumbeak, and primarina are good at providing this type of enrichment. Finally, pokémon able to keep up with hawlucha in parkour chases can be useful partners. Passimian are a good choice but mankey can sometimes get too aggressive. Persian enjoy the game but hate having the scent around them, making them better at being occasional playmates than full-time partners. Pokémon with keen senses of smell tend not to like hawlucha much. Snorlax is a notable exception and hawlucha sometimes enjoy using the bear’s stomach as a trampoline for acrobatics practice.

Hawlucha cannot be housebroken. They tend to defecate right before or after leaving their perch.

Illness

As carriers of avian influenza, hawlucha will need to be routinely vaccinated. If their diet is not very close to the ideal hawlucha will at first become rather sluggish before eventually becoming extremely aggressive. Care should be taken to maintain the proper diet at all times.

Evolution

N/A

Battle

The eagle warriors of Anahuac have a rather unique fighting style that incorporates hawlucha. The pokémon jump off the large shields carried by the humans and make a strategic swipe at an enemy to break their wrist or ankle. The bird will then either jump on to another opponent or back to their trainer’s shield to get another assisted launch. The eagle warrior will practically run through the battlefield behind the hawlucha to finish wounding and tagging the humans left behind. The rapid pace of combat does leave the warriors at a disadvantage against extremely bulky pokémon. These were uncommon companions in the early colonial era due to the logistics of transporting large rock- and steel-types on ships, but the mass produced pokéball and broader international trade networks allowed the empire’s enemies to make sure they had an adequate supply. Anahuac has suffered several military defeats since 1876 and declined in influence in large part because hawlucha became less effective on the battlefield.

In competitive tournaments hawlucha are still very effective. They strike hard enough to break bones and sever tendons in all but the bulkiest of pokémon. Hawlucha are also incredibly agile and in arenas that are not entirely flat they can make good use of vertical space. Even on a flat battlefield hitting a hawlucha with anything but an area of effect or homing attack can be difficult. Eventually hawlucha’s hits add up. So long as they are not hit in return hawlucha may even find opportunities to use bulk up or swords dance. If hawlucha has a type advantage, as with bulky steel, rock, normal, and fighting-type opponents, the match will probably end in their favor.

Unfortunately, hawlucha are saddled with two glaring weaknesses. The first is that hawlucha are rather frail. One or two good hits from a professional trainer’s pokémon can usually take them out. The second is that hawlucha rarely strike to kill in either wild showfights or on the field of battle. In Anahuac most soldiers are captured alive rather than killed to accommodate this. Human sacrifice may have developed as a way of dealing with surplus prisoners who were often too injured to work.

When they start to gain an advantage in battle, hawlucha instinctively switch to trying to taunt and scare their opponent into surrender. This loss of momentum and momentary distraction can sometimes allow their opponent to get in a knockout blow.

Hawlucha excel in acrobatic and melee attacks. Supporting moves are generally not advised as hawlucha need to constantly be dodging or attacking and will seldom find a moment to pull them off. Protect is an exception as a way to block the rare hit that can’t be dodged. Boosting moves are also useful if hawlucha faces off with something weak or slow enough that there is no imminent danger of being knocked out.

Acquisition

Hawlucha can only be captured on Route 3 with a Class V license and all four island stamps. Adoption and purchase also require a Class V license. They adjust well to capture so long as a proper battle was performed beforehand.

While international laws are seldom worth mentioning, trainers with a desire to travel should know that owning a hawlucha without proper authorization is considered treason in Anahuac. The only punishment for treason in the country is death. Hawlucha trainers near the border often go missing. The government of Anahuac uniformly issues press statements denying responsibility but asserting that the victim had it coming.

Breeding

Wild hawlucha live in mated pairs. They do not usually mate for life, but most pairings last at least two breeding seasons. Wild hawlucha are known to engage in elaborate performative copulation to mark their territory. Proper mating with the intent to breed is much more restrained and takes place in November. Hawlucha eggs hatch after a six-week incubation period. Children are abandoned shortly after fledging around six weeks of age.

Captive breeding of hawlucha is extremely difficult and requires a near-perfect replica of their natural habitat. The Imperial Palace and Tenochtitlan’s Temple of Xōchipilli contain large greenhouses devoted to hawlucha care. Before the modern era the greenhouses were large indoor chambers with proper temperatures and humidity maintained by resident fire- and water- type pokémon. These two facilities, along with a similar one in the Nimbasa Zoo, are the only places hawlucha have ever bred in captivity. Trainers interested in breeding their hawlucha should contact the Nimbasa Zoo.

Relatives

Hawlucha are the only living members of their order. The last known relative died out over three million years ago. Hawlucha can be naturally found from the Zapotec Autonomous Province and Yucatan Penninsula down to the isthmus of Panama. Small introduced populations can also be found in portions of the United States, Kalos, Galar, and other NATO nations.

 

[Persephone]

Oricorio

Overview

Whatever else can be said about them, oricorio are extremely versatile pokémon. Every individual is capable of taking four different forms with varying personalities, typings, and battle styles. While some oricorio have a preference for one form or another most do not. This gives trainers four separate tries at connecting with their pokémon. Forms can also be changed for important battles.

Oricorio’s drawbacks are in acquisition and logistics. They are rare outside of nature preserves with somewhat strict annual catch quotas. Nectar is somewhat expensive and rather heavy. Most trainers also cannot meaningfully contribute to their oricorio’s training and fighting style.

Even with the species’ drawbacks, dancers and trainers looking for a versatile pokémon would do well to to learn the laws and set aside time to capture an oricorio.

Physiology

The four forms, or styles, of oricorio all have different typings. All four have a partial flying-typing. Pom-pom style oricorio are also classified as electric-types, pa’u as psychic-types, baile as fire-types, and sensu as ghost types.

All four forms are relatively small bird pokémon with a typical songbird build. All have relatively strong legs and solid balance. Baile style oricorio are the only form that is more comfortable in the air than on the ground, although sensu style oricorio can fly in a pinch. Pom-pom and pa’u oricorio can only jump and control their fall with air current manipulation.

Pom-pom oricorio have a build closer to hawlucha than a typical bird pokémon. They have short wings with bulky puffs of feathers at the ends. Electrical charges build up in these feathers between attacks and pom-pom oricorio can unleash powerful shocks at the start of battles. Between hits pom-pom oricorio can pull off impressive acrobatic feats. This style’s skeleton still has the same composition as the others, which limits its ability to take hits or deal powerful blows.

Pa’u style oricorio are almost entirely dependent upon their dances. Only six flight feathers—three at the end of each wing—survive the transformation into this form. The rest of their body is coated in soft pink feathers as well as ornamental skirts and head tufts of white feathers. Pa’u style oricorio are masters at channeling ambient psychic energy into telepathic, empathic, and telekinetic attacks. On balance they are slow walkers and weak jumpers.

Baile style oricorio have the most conventional avian body shape. While they sometimes do take bipedal stances their dances are mostly performed in flight. The style’s fireproof feathers are mostly red with occasional fringes of black feathers. Small white spiral patterns rest on the bird’s cheeks. Baile oricorio produce fire with every flap of their wings. They can control and shape the flames with their dances.

Sensu oricorio have a similar build to baile oricorio with a slightly more bipedal stance. Their feathers’ colors can vary wildly between individuals but usually include some mix of purple, pink, and blue. The sensu style’s powers are more similar to pa’u than the other forms; rather than creating ghost energy they manipulate ambient fields. Specifically, sensu oricorio channel the spirits and ghost energy of the area around them into curses, semi-tangible minions, and weak elemental attacks. They rival human channelers in communicating with the spirits of the dead. Mediums seldom employ the birds, however, because they are remarkably cruel beneath their elegant façade.

All four styles subsist entirely on nectar. Their digestive system has many similarities to crobat as a result of their liquid diet. Oricorio spend most of their day feeding with almost all of the rest spent sleeping. Perhaps an hour or two a day is spent dancing for passing humans and local pokémon. They were traditionally believed to be oracles of the tapus. Their dances were often imitated by the priests of pre-annexation Alola until they were banned, first by an Alolan king in 1834 and again by the provisional government after a brief period of legality in the latter years of the Kingdom. While many of the traditional dances have been lost to time and suppression there are attempts to relearn them from surviving documents and the dances of modern oricorio.

All styles grow to weighs of approximately 0.5 kilograms although their heights vary. Oricorio can live for fifteen years in the wild and captivity.

Behavior

No style of oricorio had many predators before contact with Japan and China. Invasive species such as gumshoos and raticate have dramatically changed this situation. Pom-pom and pa’u oricorio are also unable to take to the skies to avoid terrestrial predators. Raticate in particular wiped out the pa’u style oricorio before the remaining portions of Akala Meadow were barricaded off and oricorio from other islands were introduced.

Pom-pom oricorio dealt with the most predators in the past, mostly in the form of the large birds and dragons that roost near Melemele Meadow. Pom-pom style’s electricity and near flightlessness help them survive by hiding in the tall flowers of the meadow and shocking anything that does come too close. New predators have forced them to roost in the sparse trees of the meadow and rely on their electricity to deter flying pokémon. On the ground they are still vulnerable to raticate and gumshoos attacks.

The style’s high metabolism leads to a need to consume even more nectar than the other styles. On balance they sleep somewhat less.

Pa’u oricorio benefited from the nature of Akala Meadow. Powerful and intelligent psychics often met in the meadow as it was a good central location between the xatu of the south, the oranguru of the north, and the slowking of the coast. Tapu Lele was also a frequent visitor. The pa’u flowers that dominate the meadow absorb psychic energy and slowly radiate it out. All of the ambient energy allowed pa’u oricorio to channel it into devastating mind control and telekinetic attacks when needed. While incineroar were not deterred, torracat were. Pa’u oricorio took to killing any torracat that came near the meadow until incineroar started to reign in their children.

Raticate do not have a non-dark juvenile form. Even if they did the desperate hunger of the average rattata would probably make oricorio’s power a rather poor deterrent. Because pa’u oricorio traditionally sleep on the ground at night and rattata can navigate through even thick flowerbeds the oricorio were easily killed

Before the introduction of invasive species the dominant predators on Ula’Ula were ninetales, incineroar, metagross, and flygon. Metagross have always been comparatively rare and flygon seldom leave the Haina Valley. For their part incineroar shied away from the extremely rainy western Ula’Ula. Ninetales and vulpix were the only predators that often slunk down into the meadow to feed. The flames of the baile oricorio have several unique properties to deter ninetales and survive in their environment. The mystic nature of their flames allow them to burn through rain and ninetails-induced snowstorms. The bird’s feathers are largely waterproof and they do not seem to mind rain or snow much at all.

Baile flowers are remarkably fire resistant and brush fires were uncommon in the meadow. Trees fared less well with the frequent flames from dancing oricorio and there are rather few in the area. This has come to be a problem for baile oricorio who cannot easily retreat to higher ground despite being able to fly. Conservationists have helped by adding metal perches designed to be unclimbable by rattata and yungoos and too sturdy to be knocked over by raticate and gumshoos. The remaining threats on Ula’Ula—the ghosts and honchkrow—have always been reluctant to attack any form of oricorio.

Sensu oricorio have relatively little direct power to protect them in a fight. Yet nothing, not even rattata, dares to attack them. What makes sensu oricorio nigh-unassailable is their cruelty and intelligence. When stressed they resort to two basic defenses—curses and apparitions. Curses tend to cause long-term physical and mental health problems for the victim that, if they do not result in death, can make the victim wish that they did. While many ghosts (and ninetales) can cast curses, those of sensu oricorio are among the most psychologically brutal. It is believed that the spirits of the dead communicate with oricorio to inform the bird of personal vulnerabilities to exploit. Alternatively, oricorio can simply summon dead loved ones or enemies of their target. Oricorio can control the apparition and make it say things designed to thoroughly break the victim. Their mere presence is a large part of the reason why few souls have dared to live in the eastern half of Poni Island.

Husbandry

The biggest drawback of oricorio is their diet. They only consume nectar from one of four plants, all rare. Outside of their meadows oricorio’s food alone can cost up to $300 a month for a relatively small bird. Liquid diets also mean that oricorio constantly need to urinate and are borderline impossible to housebreak. Even brief periods without food can cause serious health problems.

There is also little literature on oricorio husbandry. Much of the traditional knowledge has been lost. It was never common in any case as priests preferred to simply live near the meadows and observe the oricorio in their natural habitat. Only curious birds interested in living with humans were ever held in captivity. They were usually kept within a short distance of the meadows. Widespread husbandry is still very new and mostly limited to a handful of zoos hoping to bolster wild populations with a captive breeding program.

What the literature does reveal is that oricorio’s mindset changes when they shift forms. The same basic preferences and attachments will remain filtered through a different personality. As most specimens come to prefer whatever form they are currently in, their trainer can mostly pick what sort of pokémon they want and even try again to start a productive relationship.

In general pom-pom oricorio are the most energetic and outgoing. While generally very friendly they do not shy away from making their displeasure known, mostly through small shocks and songs that somehow sound expletive-laden.

Pa’u oricorio are rather withdrawn. They tend not to notice the world around them and focus on their own inner life. Nice to their friends and mostly apathetic to their enemies, the biggest risk of dealing with pa’u style oricorio is that of accidentally being hypnotized into wasting the day away. These are good partners for relatively inactive and laidback trainers. Constant activity or very energetic conversations annoy them.

Baile oricorio have been described as incredibly dramatic. They approach everything with utmost sincerity and grow perhaps exaggeratedly angry over small setbacks. When the occasion calls for it they want extravagant celebrations. Interpersonal conflicts, even generally positive ones, are prone to grand gestures and dramatic spats that require a lot of emotional investment. If someone they love is hurting, baile oricorio will do everything they can to provide comfort and avenge the harm.

Sensu oricorio are ethereally graceful. Their movements often seem to be too perfect to be natural. The style seldom displays emotion and prefers that all relationships be distant, formal, and abundantly polite. In very close relationships they may behave a little more informally but will always immediately stiffen up and demand formality when anyone else draws close. Above all, sensu oricorio hate surprises or anything that can catch them off guard and ruin the illusion of perfection. Violators can be mercilessly punished. Most sensu oricorio trainers are afraid of their pokémon, even if they love it. Only trainers who have developed an extremely deep relationship with the oricorio in another style and have no serious mental health issues should attempt to train them. Unfortunately, the trainers who are very comfortable with the subdued behavior sensu oricorio require tend to be depressed.

Talented dancers, and to a lesser extend singers, acrobats, actors, and storytellers, are the best trainers for oricorio. Teaching the pokémon a dance style it does not already know is the best way to hold the bird’s attention and gain its respect.

Illness

As with most birds, powerful hits can easily lead to broken bones. Trainers should be very careful when picking matchups and be quick to surrender the round.

Oricorio’s liquid diet can cause health consequences. Overhydration in particular can lead to kidney problems. Sensu oricorio tend to drink exactly what is needed. Pom-pom oricorio are very fond of their nectar and need to be well-rationed. Baile oricorio’s desire for nectar varies wildly with their mood. When focused they will need to be forcefully reminded to drink and when melodramatic they will need to be cut off. Pa’u oricorio often forget to drink altogether.

Evolution

Oricorio take the form of the nectar they consume the most. After one day to a few weeks on another nectar, depending upon the pokémon’s preference for different styles, flash evolution will occur. Oricorio is one of the only species that can flash evolve many time in its life and even evolve between forms as an adult.

Battle

No oricorio is widely used on competitive circuits. While there is some speculation that pa’u oricorio could be very effective when paired with a psychic terrain setter or used on a monotype team this has never been tested at high levels. Sensu oricorio could theoretically force some forfeits from opponents who don’t want to deal with their nightmare apparitions but this is a cheap strategy that requires spending large amounts of time around a sensu oricorio. There is serious discussion of preemptively banning the sensu style from the U.S. and Alolan Leagues to prevent a potentially uncompetitive strategy.

All styles tend to use the same basic strategies. They open by distracting the opponent through the subtle emotional manipulation of their core dances. As this continues they slowly start to work in calm mind while maintaining enough of the oracle dance in their style to keep the opponent distracted. When that is done the oricorio shifts to unleashing powerful revelation dances and hurricanes. Weak hits can be blocked by substitute or shrugged off with roost.

Every style has their own variation on this formula. Pom-pom oricorio tends to rely more on dodging attacks than distracting opponents. Pa’u style can use powerful attacks right off the bat in some instances but can quickly deplete the ambient energy on the battlefield. Baile style have some difficulty using calm mind at all. Sensu style must be taught to boost before attacking and use powerful elemental attacks rather than psychological torture. It is debatable if such cruel tactics are even effective in the long term. To start with they are a good way to gain the ire of other trainers and lose access to professional events. Opponents may also be frustrated and less willing to hold back, a bad position to be in when battling with a bird. Without boosting sensu oricorio also lose most damage races, even against distracted opponents.

Acquisition

The easiest styles to start training with are baile and pom-pom.

Baile oricorio are somewhat rare but still present in Ula’Ula Meadow. A few wander towards Castleton or onto Route 17. One small troupe has been seen around an abandoned baile flower garden in Po Town. Pom-pom oricorio live almost exclusively in Melemele Meadow with a few vagrants in other parts of Route 3 and northern Route 2.

The easiest way to bond with an oricorio is to simply play a song and dance in a style similar to that of the pokémon. One may take notice join in with their own. This may need to be repeated for a few days before the pokémon begins to follow when their new trainer leaves the meadow. At this point they may be captured without a battle. Skilled dancers are advised to try their hand at capturing baile oricorio. Unskilled dancers or singers with enough enthusiasm may be able to draw the attention of a pom-pom oricorio despite their lack of talent.

Pa’u oricorio can be captured through a similar method but they are very rare outside of Akala Meadow Preserve, a wildlife park with a full capture ban and strict visitation rules. Royale Avenue has begun to introduce a few and allow them to free roam. Various pokémon are employed to kill any pests that enter the area and threaten their birds. Employees of the Royal Arena and Pokémon Center are allowed to capture pa’u oricorio that agree to join them. Capture rights can also be earned as a reward for performing shows or winning battle royales.

Sensu oricorio are not recommended as a starting form. Their capture is legal (within the annual quotas set by the National Park Service) and they can be found throughout Poni National Park, even away from the central meadow. Strangely enough, setting up a tea party with an empty chair with a cup of nectar can attract sensu oricorio. If very proper manners are observed and an interesting story is told with proper respect and minimal emotion the oricorio might consent to capture. Alternatively, trainers with ties to at least one god can sometimes get sensu oricorio to seek them out. It is not necessary to capture these birds after tea parties and they handle polite rejections shockingly well.

There is a relatively small population of oricorio available for sale or capture. They are rather expensive and can sometimes struggle to adjust to a new trainer.

All oricorio styles can be captured, adopted, or purchased with a Class III license.

Breeding

Oricorio tend to live in troupes of two to ten mated pairs and their young children. Mated pairs spend most of their day together with their children and then the troupe reassembles around dusk to sleep in the same general space. Little is understood of oricorio mate selection, mating, and childrearing due to the very dense meadows they inhabit.

Oricorio were first bred in captivity twenty-six years ago. The only successful births so far occurred in large greenhouses with thick flowerbeds and little human disturbance. Most of these were baile style oricorio. Pa’u style oricorio were bred for the first time two years ago in San Diego. Sensu and pom-pom style oricorio have yet to breed in captivity.

Subspecies

There may have been other oricorio styles in the past whose flowers went extinct. Several skeletons of a potentially undiscovered style have been unearthed in Northeastern Ula’Ula and on the slopes of Mt. Hokulani. Carbon dating has determined the skeletons are twelve to three thousand years old. It is possible that minior, claydol, metagross, or decidueye in the area may have firsthand knowledge of this style.

 

[Persephone]

Ribombee (Cutiefly)
Chlamydeapis animavidens

Overview

Lucario are popular worldwide partially due to their associations with aura. Unfortunately, the species’ Alolan population is confined to Poni National Park, riolu are very selective about their trainers, and riolu eggs are expensive. Mienshao, often seen as a poor man’s lucario, suffer from many of the same problems.

Most trainers don’t know that ribombee also use aura. While their aura is used mainly for utility rather than offense or defense, the beeflies are empaths and rather good at predicting and dodging attacks. Combined with their naturally high speed they can be good sweepers on the island challenge. The species also requires relatively little dedicated training and is easy to obtain. On balance, feeding ribombee can sometimes be difficult and, while they are very cute, they lack the “coolness” that makes lucario (and mienshao) popular.

Physiology

Ribombee and cutiefly are classified as dual bug- and fairy-type pokémon. Their secondary fairy-typing is heavily disputed as ribombee lack most of the classic fairy-type traits (tricksters, lunar affiliation) but can read auras, a traditionally fighting-type attribute. Ribombee’s natural affinity for moonblast has been used to justify the current typing. The matter is being reviewed by the Department of Agriculture and a type change to either pure bug or bug-fighting is considered likely.

Cutiefly are very small insect pokémon. They are not considered to be true bees due to their lack of hives, swarming, honey production, or stingers. Genetic tests suggest that they are actually related to—and possibly descended from—vikavolt. Cuteifly have fuzzy yellow hair on the front of their body, an exposed white exoskeleton at the back, and a short and firm proboscis. Their wings resemble those of vikavolt and rest over the pokémon’s back when at rest. The wings often have patterns on them that vary by region and family. These patterns include eyes, bright colors that blend in with their feathers, or dark green or blue shades that make the pokémon resemble a small vikavolt at a glance. Four long black legs rest beneath the cutiefly’s body.

Ribombee have a build more like butterfree’s than vikavolt’s. Two antennae, a short proboscis, and large compound eyes adorn their head. A brown “scarf” of hair rests on the neck and boosts ribombee’s aura reading powers. Two arms are attached just below the scarf and the other two are located at the end of the body. Special joints allow ribombee to use their wings to either flutter like a proper butterfly or fly like a vikavolt when they need to move quickly.

The species subsists on a mix of honey and nectar. Ribombee use the honey to create waxy secretions that can bind together pollen and slightly change its inherent properties. This can cause the pollen to either be a disorienting toxic weapon or a very nutritious food source for cutiefly. Ribombee often leave a mix of toxic and nutritious puffs lying around. Only cutiefly seem to be able to tell the difference.

Ribombee grow to lengths of nine inches and weights up to ten ounces. They live for roughly one year in the wild and in captivity.

Behavior

Most pokémon can only exist because of other pokémon. Grass-types purifying the air and soil let forests grow fast enough to support large herbivores. Predators rely mostly on large pokémon for their food rather than killing dozens of relatively small and energy-light baseline animals. Ribombee are almost entirely separate from the pokémon-based ecology of Alola. Most of their interactions are with baseline insects.

Ribombee steal their honey from ordinary bees by using light attacks to disorient swarms and smash hives open. Their main competitors in pollination are baseline insects and hummingbirds. Most pokémon in the area don’t interact with ribombee at all due to their toxic pollens, annoying binding fluids, skittishness, and high speed. Even the main pokémon pollinator in Alola—butterfree—is not a direct competitor. Rain washes away the pollen ribombee have accumulated and the species goes to great lengths to avoid it. Butterfree are most active during these storms and help keep large flowers pollinated during the rainy season.

Cutiefly and ribombee do not use their aura to attack other pokémon. Instead it is used to identify the plants likely to have the best nectar and to sense the movements of predators and weather patterns. When faced with a potential threat both cutiefly and ribombee prefer to turn tail and use their high flight speeds and agility to run off into the forest and evade their pursuer.

Husbandry

Honey is cheap as far as pokémon food goes. Nectar, especially from ribombee and cutiefly’s preferred plants, is a fair bit more expensive. It is most commonly sold in bird specialty stores that stock it for oricorio. Relatively cheap butterfree nectar mixes can work in a pinch. Thankfully, ribombee can forage for their own nectar most of the time and seem to prefer doing so as it also lets them accumulate pollen. So long as there are flowers out and the weather is clear ribombee can be trusted to eat on their own and use their abilities to find their trainer when finished. Cutiefly have weaker aura reading and a handful of predators so they should be supervised when foraging.

Ribombee and, to a lesser extent, cutiefly are clever and easily taught new tricks. Both are also affectionate and enjoy contact with their trainer and teammates. Most ribombee enjoy perching on their trainer’s head or shoulder when outside of their ball and in clear weather. Both stages prefer to be outside of their ball whenever it is not raining. They despise rain and will ask to enter their ball when other shelter is not available. Net and nest balls are the best choices for them.

All Pokémon Centers and some individual shops ban ribombee from being out of their ball due to the sheer amount of pollen they carry on them.

Both stages are neither strictly diurnal nor nocturnal. Sleep schedules tend to be based around the rain and winds rather than the sun. Ribombee get upset if their preferred sleep schedule is disrupted. Thankfully, they will sleep in their pokéball with minimal fuss.

Illness

Ribombee are not built to last. A single hit from pokémon can kill it, their exoskeleton isn’t particularly durable, and their organs are prone to failure for no clear reason if they survive to the one-year mark. There is relatively little research on how to heal them. Any serious hit from a fully evolved pokémon has the potential to kill ribombee in one shot. Cutiefly have to be careful around even fairly weak pokémon. Be very cautious about using them in battle. Ideally, they should be limited to fighting grounded pokémon with no way of hitting back or for field control against another utility lead.

Evolution

Between six and eight weeks of age, cutiefly will form small cocoons for their evolution. Evolution itself only takes three to seven days. The cocoon should not be moved during this time period.

Battle

Despite their frailty ribombee have carved out a niche in professional battling. They are extremely fast and hit decently hard. More importantly, they naturally form a sticky pollen binding substance. While the quantity is normally limited by their small size a very well trained ribombee can learn to use elemental energy to coat the battlefield in webs. Their high speed and small size make them tricky to hit as they set up field control. Alternatively, they can spread status or boost midflight with quiver dance. Ribombee have extremely high mortality rates on the battlefield and are near deadweight outside of field control and the occasional revenge kill. Many trainers aren’t willing to give a team slot to a pokémon that will probably only fight in a few matches before dying of injury or old age.

Ribombee benefit from the relative frailty and inexperience of pokémon on the island challenge vis a vis the professional circuit. Many pokémon have no options at all for dealing with an aerial attacker. In the time it takes for the switch clock to run ribombee can either boost themselves up to terrifying speeds and fairly impressive power or coat the battlefield in webs and benefit future levitators or birds. Ribombee are still extremely frail pokémon and should use u-turn to switch out as soon as their role is fulfilled.

Cutiefly function best as weak but somewhat fast flying artillery. They really should not fight at all as within a fairy short period of time they will evolve on their own.

Acquisition

Ribombee and cutiefly are most common in Alola’s meadows but can also be found in many savannahs on the islands. Proving battles are both unnecessary and dangerous, but some sort of a trapper may be necessary to keep ribombee from fleeing or at least constantly evading thrown pokéballs. Many trainers have reported success at luring in ribombee by placing a cup of a very rare or foreign flower’s nectar out and sitting still nearby for as long as it takes for a pokémon to take the bait. If the nectar is good enough and the process is repeated a few times a teammate can often be obtained without a battle. Be advised that the beeflies will expect similar nectar to be provided fairly often.

Cutiefly can be obtained with a Class I license. Ribombee can be obtained with a Class II. No shelters take them in and there are no dedicated breeders so purchase and adoption are near impossible.

Breeding

Ribombee mating occurs towards the end of the rainy season when a male ambushes a female in midair and overpowers her in an acrobatic contest. Mating is done while flying at full speed in seemingly random directions until both partners abruptly separate and dash away from each other. The female ribombee will then search for burrowing bug-type pokémon or non-pokémon insect nests. She uses her antennae and sensors on the tips of her feet to glean information about the nest. If it is satisfactory she will extend a thin tube from her rear and deposit her eggs into the nest. The offspring will hatch after a few days and begin to feed upon the adults, juveniles, and eggs of the host species.

The species has never been bred in captivity due to the somewhat odd nature of their mating and parasitism. In any case they are not in danger of extinction in Alola.

Relatives

The Galarians introduced ribombee to the gardens of their home island and colonies. There is some dispute as to whether these populations should count as distinct subspecies or not.

 

[Persephone]

Florges (Flabébé, Floette)
Deserti eliot

Overview

Around 1000 BCE, the florges say, a superweapon was fired in Kalos. A long, bloody war came to an end with the annihilation of both sides. In the end no party won, save perhaps the desperate king who resurrected his beloved companion only to be rejected and abandoned. In time almost everyone in Kalos, human and pokémon, lost their cultural memory of the war.

The florges never did. The species is still attempting to process it three millennia later. They keep vast gardens to honor the dead, revive the scorched earth, and try to bring some meaning to the world after warfare. When they choose to fight they are very powerful Pokémon, yet most hesitate to fight lest they repeat the sins of the past.

While florges has human-comparable intelligence, the lower stages have maturity more comparable to toddlers and grade schoolers than adult humans. Raising a flabébé to adulthood is very much like raising a child. Florges do not need as much of a watchful eye. On balance they are haunted, fickle creatures who need heavy emotional support and a very understanding trainer. When they do find a solid partnership, florges are likely to form a deep bond with their trainer. Even centuries later they can be heard murmuring maternal lamentations for their human companions as they wander the wastelands human wars have wrought.

Physiology

The florges line are currently classified as pure fairy-type pokémon. This is heavily disputed, most prominently by scholars arguing that as plant pokémon at least the first two stages should have a grass-typing. The general melancholy and possible channeling abilities of florges also support a potential ghost-typing. However, there is no definitive proof that florges can speak with the dead and, unlike most plant-based pokémon, florges are not primarily photosynthetic. Also unlike most grass-types florges aren’t seriously bothered by fire and fear death by water more than anything.

Flabébé are small fey creatures with a short stem-like tail, a round torso, and a head that dwarfs the rest of their body. Ear-like petals sprout from the sides of their head and a crown of yellow flowers rests on top. The bottom portion of flabébé is green and the top is white. Flabébé instinctively attach themselves to a flower they like. The color appears to dictate the powers they control later on in life (see Behavior). Any flower flabébé bonds with tends to grow even after being plucked and never wilts. It was long thought that flabébé somehow absorbed the energy of their flower to feed. Recent research shows that this is not the case and the entire line feed almost exclusively on ambient elemental energy and moonlight, with blood and sunlight being serviceable replacements in times of desperation.

Floette have much larger bodies than flabébé and retain their flower. Now they themselves are almost as large, with their green tail growing and developing fins at the end that let them swim through the air like a marine mammal. The crown is replaced with small buds around the ears and large green antennae. What the ears, crown, or antennae are used for is still not well understood.

Florges have been described as a girl in a hyacinth. Their tail splits into two long petals that can be used to entirely cover the main body. The tail itself grows tall enough to allow very large florges to look their trainer in the eye. The flower is fused with and becomes an elaborate wreath around the florges’ head. Despite being distantly related to other flower pokémon, florges have organ systems similar to some animals. They have a heart (that glows when exposed to air) but no lungs. A small brain rests behind their pearlescent eyes with nerve clusters throughout the body assisting it. It is possible that florges offload some of their mental functions to their garden itself.

The largest florges can reach heights of sixty-seven inches and weights of forty pounds. Their lifespan is unknown; there may still be florges alive who witnessed the Kalosian wars three millennia ago. Florges can roughly be ‘dated’ by the style of their garden. Cultural influences from the time of evolution are usually present, although these become less pronounced over time. The oldest florges tend to have gardens over major archaeological sites. Some early archaeologists would try to kill the florges to allow for a proper excavation. Modern researchers prefer to ask the florges questions about the site. Protecting the garden preserves both an important historical site and a very old organism that will occasionally indulge the curiosity of academics.

Behavior

Flabébé are carefree spirits that spend their days wandering their mother’s garden in pursuit of the best possible flower. They sometimes observe or even prank the pokémon or people in the garden but never do any serious harm. In turn no one dares harm a baby under her mother’s watchful eye. Strong gusts of wind can blow flabébé away as they are not yet skilled fliers and are almost always carrying a comparatively large sail with them. They must take shelter by clinging to their mother during storms.

Floette leave their mothers and set off onto their own. In Kalos they often retreat uphill to live free in the mountains for a few years, tending to small meadows and flowerbeds in groups as they practice their budding powers. Some end up in cities or the suburbs where they tend to parks, backyard gardens, and flower beds. Disrupting a flower bed can earn the pokémon’s wrath, either immediately or after they evolve. While not yet as somber as florges, floette have complex emotional lives and are prone to fits of anger when dealing with feelings they don’t understand.

Florges often stay in one place and care for an increasingly large garden. The florges’ presence strengthens the plants within and even heals pokémon and humans, physically and perhaps emotionally. In turn they gain more and more influence over their gardens. The exact powers gained depend on their personality and flower color. Manipulations of light and darkness are common. One florges was fond of communicating with humans through heaps of broken images scattered amongst the flowers. Others raise shadows in the twilight and apparently talk to them. Florges that have learned the human language have claimed these shadows are the spirits of the dead. One particularly powerful florges in Iberia has been known to cast a violet glow over their garden for about an hour every night. Many visitors report seeing or hearing long-dead loved ones. Whether this is a psychic illusion or a channeling of actual spirits is not yet clear.

As a general rule purple and pink florges have spectral or psionic gifts, red and orange florges are low-grade biokinetics that actively change the beings in their garden, blue florges have minor weather altering abilities, yellow florges specialize in powders and debilitating effects, and green florges are particularly competent healers. Slight variations in shades and temperament can produce different effects.

White florges are the rarest by far. Rather than tending to gardens they tend to wander the world wrapped in long brown cloaks and veils. While this does deprive them of a garden to channel their powers, white florges have extremely powerful lunar energy that let them release some of the strongest known moonblasts, heal themselves almost completely in an instant with moonlight, and even restore others or gradually warp an environment. They are also extremely intelligent; one Kalosian king declared a white florges that spent time in his court to be the wisest woman in all of Europe.

All florges are wracked by their knowledge of devastation. Some of this is firsthand and comes from being empathetic beings with long, long lifespans. The rest is either from passed-down stories or potentially a communal memory. They are naturally wary of conflict and distrustful of humans, although they often are sought out by the broken for their calming gardens and relation to the dead. Florges will often allow corpses to be buried in their garden so that the deceased can at least create something beautiful in death, whatever they accomplished in life. Newly evolved florges are fond of settling down in the aftermath of bloody battles, natural disasters, nuclear fallout, or legendary attacks and making lilacs grow from the dead earth. The flower pokémon are obsessed with meaning and try to bring some significance from even the most pointless of tragedies.

White florges are somewhat more active healers and peacemakers. They tend to move between monasteries, courts, universities, and other centers of human influence and learn and teach what they can. White florges are particularly fearsome advocates for peace. This does not make them inherently peaceful. All florges become violent when their garden is threatened. White florges consider the world to be their garden. Warmongers or profiteers often wind up being killed by a moonblast. One florges in Galar became particularly fond of murdering every noble involved in a war regardless of guilt to dissuade their successors from violence. Eventually the nobility banded together and killed the florges before burning down all florges gardens on the island and banning their importation. While another white florges did avenge her sister, no new gardens have formed there since.

Husbandry

All evolutionary stages feed primarily on moonlight and ambient elemental energy. Current and recent trial sites have an abundance of Z-Energy to feed on. Z-Crystals can also serve as a battery of sort. Florges and strong floette can safely bask at night. Flabébé will need a guardian on the trail; Pokémon Centers often have some sort of netting over their pool decks to protect weaker fish, making these great basking spots in cities.

Like most intelligent pokémon, members of the florges line require extensive enrichment and bonding activities. The exact nature of care required depends on the evolutionary stage.

Flabébé are young and relatively carefree. They require near constant protection to make sure they don’t blow away in the wind, fall victim to predators, or accidentally hurt themselves. Visits to parks and flower beds make good enrichment. While they might come to understand a few words flabébé are unlikely to speak or develop a true understanding of the human language. Frequently talking to flabébé can teach them more words and help them understand the subtext of tone, inflection, and body language. Very lightweight toys such as origami birds can make for good enrichment but are not necessary. Without them, flabébé will typically find ways to entertain themselves.

Floette are fairly comparable to human children. If raised from a young age they will start to fully understand the human language and even be able to form rudimentary sentences of their own. Unlike flabébé’s rather physical curiosity, floette enjoy trips to museums and interesting landmarks and appreciate explanations as to how things work. “Why” is often their favorite word and trainers should be prepared to patiently explain mundane aspects of the world many times. On balance, floette trainers often wind up learning a great deal about many subjects in the process. Teaching floette to read can help abate their curiosity. Strangely enough, floette get along far more with carnivorous pokémon than herbivores. The flowers instinctively defend other plants and beautiful scenery and can come into conflict with grazers. Careful explanation of the other pokémon’s diet may be needed to ease tensions. While they may form attachments to other pokémon they are likely to see them as competitors for their trainer’s time and affections.

Florges are more than capable of taking care of themselves. The biggest hurdle for florges trainers is convincing them they should stay. Owning a large plot of land to form a garden on helps but this still doesn’t benefit traveling trainers and, given the Alolan real estate market, is unobtainable for many island challengers. It is usually easiest to convince the florges that their trainer and teammates are their garden and they should care for the emotional needs of those they love. This requires forming a genuinely familial relationship. Extensive time spent together, genuine consideration of the florges’ advice, and shared interests help. Compatible political ideology and attendance at anti-war or pro-environment rallies also encourage the florges to stay, although the laws about pokémon at protest events should be reviewed in advance. Finally, traumatized trainers – especially refugees and veterans – instinctively trigger maternal feelings. Florges get along well with blissey who are also attracted to similar humans.

White florges tend not to care about forming gardens. They are also easier to bond with and often already know the human language. Unlike most pokémon, white florges have memories and duties. As long-lived creatures, florges are often unwilling to attach themselves to a trainer who will die in mere decades. Conversely, sometimes they may agree to travel with a trainer who reminds them of an old companion. In the end white florges often see themselves as bound by duties to their species, humanity, and the world. Their plans may prove incompatible with their trainers (and often involve breaking a fair few laws).

Illness

Elemental withdrawal is the cause of most florges illnesses. Even serious physical wounds can be mended in time through hibernation and absorption of moonlight and energy. Withdrawal symptoms include wilting, wandering away from beloved places and people, extreme mood swings, and a refusal to use their powers. Florges that can speak will often lay out their problems. Thankfully almost all damage can be fixed with exposure to enough energy from evolutionary stones, Z- and mega-crystals, wishing stars, and elementally charged areas.

Drowning is the main cause of death in fully grown florges. They do require oxygen to breathe and are not particularly adept swimmers. While florges, while usually smart enough to avoid this fate, can still be caught off-guard by shipwrecks, flash floods, and assassins.

Evolution

Flabébé gradually evolve to floette. In the wild the demarcation line is the new floette leaving the garden they were born in. In captivity a floette is a flabébé that has grown heavier than its flower. Size is the main physical difference between the two.

Florges evolve via flash evolution. Once a floette acquires enough wisdom, power, and courage it will seek out a place to grow a garden. The flowers will gradually gain elemental charges great enough to cause the floette’s evolution. Alternatively, white floette evolve upon absorbing enough moonlight in their lifetime. In captivity white floette evolution can be triggered by frequent battle and a moon, dawn, leaf, or shiny stone.

Battle

Florges, even outside of their gardens, are very powerful combatants. Moonblasts are their strongest offensive attacks, but some are also capable of using psionic moves or grass-elemental attacks. More importantly they are very durable and can quickly recover from most hits while continuing to bombard the opponent. They also have a variety of tricks, including fear spores that can cause severe panic attacks.

The difficulty of training florges and their general aversion to violence makes them niche picks on the European and global circuits. When used they make for effective dragon checks and they can shut down many special attackers by shrugging off damage and retaliating in kind. Their odd hybrid plant-animal minds also make them difficult for telepaths to target.

White florges are the strongest in almost every way. They are extremely uncommon as they tend to be averse to fighting for the sake of fighting. A handful of European collectors have started to deliberately raise white flabébé in controlled environments to produce relatively compliant white florges. Results have been mixed and more than one such project was destroyed after a free florges found out about it.

On the island challenge florges function mostly as special tanks. Moonblasts and other attacks can wound opponents while the florges heals herself. anything that gets too close can be shown fear in a handful of dust and promptly hit with a point-blank attack for their trouble.

Floette and flabébé are much harder to battle with as neither are particularly fast, durable, or strong. They mostly rely upon powder attacks to stun an opponent before slowly whittling down the opponent. Ideally flabébé should not be battled with at all and floette should only be used against relatively weak opponents. Anything with wind manipulation can literally blow the pokémon away.

Acquisition

Florges were deliberately released into Alola in the 1970s to help preserve the island’s meadows. Their descendants still live on the archipelago. However, the government has bounties on white flabébé and floette and the importation of both is prohibited to prevent terrorism.

Flabébé can be found in the areas around large flower meadows. Their capture is prohibited on Akala but allowed on the other three tapu islands. Be forewarned that florges can grow defensive over flabébé capture in their garden and will seek out a battle against the trainer themselves followed by a long appraisal. Floette are easier to obtain as they are more widely distributed and not actively monitored by florges. In any case, flabébé can be purchased from some plant specialist breeders. Florges capture is prohibited to help preserve the meadows.

Flabébé can be obtained with a Class III license; floette and florges require a Class IV license to possess.

Breeding

Florges are capable of asexual reproduction. Alternatively, they can cross-pollinate with another florges. All florges are hermaphrodites. Virtually all accept a female or female-adjacent gender identity. Very few male-identifying florges have been recorded. One prominent example, a white florges named Tiresias, has surfaced repeatedly throughout history. There is some debate as to whether ‘Tiresias’ is a single florges or a title used by several specimens throughout history.

After self- or cross- pollination the florges lowers herself into her tail leaves and seals herself in. After seven to ten days she will emerge with several crystalline seeds lining her body. She will carefully place these just beneath the surface. Two to four weeks later the new flabébé will emerge. The mother florges will watch her children closely for the first year of their life before slowly granting them more autonomy.

Breeding florges in captivity can be difficult. To start with, taking seeds or flabébé away from a mother florges without her consent is almost guaranteed to lead to the death of the florges and anyone she can take with her along the way. Gaining consent requires convincing the mother that her children can be cared for by humans and giving them up would be good for the new flabébé or the world as a whole. There are a surprising number of breeders who have managed this with the prospects of new gardens or potentially influential human children being introduced to the florges’ ideology.

Relatives

While most flabébé end up taking a flower of the same color as their parents, if only because an abundance of such flowers typically live in the garden, they can adopt another one. As such florges do not have subspecies, even though there are multiple categories of individuals with combat and personality differences.

Florges’ closest living relative may be sudowoodo. Florges DNA is particularly strange and difficult to analyze so studies have reached different conclusions. In any case their last common ancestor would have died out tens of millions of years ago.

 

[Persephone]

Lilligant (Petilil)
Tulp manie | Tulp montium

Overview

Most pokémon, and especially most popular pokémon, are essentially just animals with slightly odd biology and the ability to harness elemental powers. Many of the exceptions lack any carbon-based biology. Then there are pokémon that are essentially plants with odd biology and elemental energy wells. Lilligant is a fairly typical example with a very storied history. They are one of the few pokémon whose wild form was believed to be long extinct but whose domesticated form lived on. In the modern day, domesticated lilligant they are mostly associated with celebrities, art collectors, and the top grass-type breeders. While maintaining the flower does require fairly expensive and time-consuming interventions, it is not necessary for the pokémon’s health to do so. Trainers who don’t care if the flower blooms can care for them more easily, although their need for very good soil does make them more difficult than many other grass-types.

Wild lilligant were rediscovered in the late Nineteenth Century living in the northern reaches of Japan. Their population was decimated by disease in the decades after discovery and is at risk of extirpation in Japan itself. Some of the disease-resistant survivors have been introduced around the world in an effort to prevent a single disaster from wiping out the entire population. Alola’s mountains and meadows host one of the largest wild lilligant populations in the world. Alternatively, trainers who want the more famous lilligant breed can obtain them from garden supply shops around the island.

Biology

Both stages of domesticated lilligant’s evolutionary line are classified as pure grass-types. The ruling is not controversial. Wild lilligant are classified as dual grass- and fighting-types. Wild petilil are classified as pure grass-types as they are not able to utilize fighting energy or physical attacks to the same extent as their evolved form.

Both petilil species have shallow light green roots, a large bulb, and two to five dark green leaves on their head. One side of the bulb is white and contains eye spots that can detect light and movement. Petilil’s leaves are very bitter but have traditionally been used as a form of medicine in Central Asia. Studies on their efficacy have had mixed results, but most show that boiling the leaves and drinking the liquid does slightly counteract or postpone old age health problems. The pokémon’s skin is mildly toxic and can cause rashes if handled without gloves. Petilil can move by pulling themselves out of the ground and shuffling to a new location. This is energy intensive, slow, and seldom done. Wild petilil are smaller, less vibrantly colored, and have a thicker and rougher epidermis. Otherwise they are almost identical.

Domesticated lilligant’s roots remain about the same size as those of a petilil. Their lower bulb is larger and a white stalk with two arm-like leaves and a smaller white bulb with eye spots develop over it. A mixture of light and dark green leaves flow from the top bulb. Some captive lilligant have a vibrant red flower blooming year-round. Most develop it seasonally. As a consequence of their larger size and small root structures these lilligant are almost entirely incapable of moving.

Even among grass-types the domesticated line is notable for their need for high-quality soils. This is an accidentally cultivated trait as wild lilligant can thrive in rugged montane lands and semideserts. Selective breeding for larger bulbs and more vibrant colors (as well as smaller roots to keep the precious flowers from running away) made for ever more demanding nutritional requirements. Now the only places they can naturally live long-term in the wild have either very good soil or an abundance of grass-elemental energy.

Wild lilligant lack these adverse selections. They have long limb-like leaves they can use as ‘arms’ and ‘legs’ for movement and manipulating the environemnt The edges of the leaves are very sharp. Wild lilligant use a mix of bursts of fighting elemental energy and a sophisticated hydraulic system to move themselves. Lilligant can cut through boulders, run at speeds of up to thirty miles per hour, and execute surprisingly complex dance moves. Some cold weather (more than ninety days a year below ten degrees C / fifty degrees F) is usually required for their survival. This initially confined them to the mountains in Alola, although in recent decades several have successfully migrated down to the lowlands for up to ten months of the year. They still must retreat to higher ground for a few months in the wet season.

Captive illigant can grow up to forty-five inches in height and weigh up to sixteen pounds. They can survive up to nine years in the wild or seven in captivity.

Wild lilligant usually grow to be between forty-five and sixty inches tall. Typical specimens weigh between thirty-five and fifty pounds. A few specimens, through mutation or absorbing the ambient z-energy of Alola, have managed to reach heights of over seventy inches. The exact cause of this growth is the subject of ongoing research. Wild lilligant typically live for around thirty years in the wild and captivity.

Behavior

Petilil and domesticated lilligant appear to do rather little. Once they have found a moist location with good soils and occasional sunlight they will dig themselves in and stay put. If their location is about to flood or burn down they will attempt to move. This disguises the constant battle for survival among plants where pheromones are transmitted, the environment is monitored, and defense mechanisms are prepared and deployed with no apparent external changes. Petilil are mildly venomous and generally foul-tasting so most large animals and pokémon leave them alone. Funguses and parasites are not so kind. Toxins can be prepared in advance to fend off invaders but constantly maintaining the toxins would consume many of the pokémon’s available resources. When one petilil or lilligant falls sick, it transmits information on the threat to all others in the gallery and within a week the entire group is resistant. This allows for the group to save on the energy put into fungicides at the cost of a few unlucky plants that are hit first.

Domesticated lilligant released to the wild can be somewhat more proactive about larger threats. They can unleash dangerous spores or lash out with solar beam or magical leaf attacks. In Alola there is seldom a need for this as their forests and meadows are overseen by oranguru and florges, respectively. Large herbivores are kept in check or directed towards faster-growing non-pokémon plants.

Wild lilligant are considerably more active. They usually root themselves in place for a few days at a time before getting up to fight a predator, look for a more advantageous resting spot, or simply explore their environment. Wild lilligant can also cut down trees that block the sun from reaching their preferred abode. These lilligant are known for their elaborate dances that can include bows, pirouettes, leaps, and incorporation of grass elemental energy. They are just as likely to dance on their own as with a partner. The dances are not used more frequently around reproduction than in any other context. Psychic studies on the species in particular and plants in general are limited. What little evidence exists suggests that they might simply dance for their own amusement.

Husbandry

Many trainers find it difficult to bond with plant pokémon, especially one as non-expressive as domesticated lilligant or petilil. It is possible to communicate. Over time the pokémon can learn to recognize their caretaker’s voice. Basic word association needed for battle and commands can also be established by saying the word for whatever the pokémon is doing as it does it. Domesticated illigant can communicate back through slight changes in posture or scent. On the bright side, the plants need relatively little emotional investment and are not physically affectionate. Very busy trainers often appreciate this.

The domesticated line are perfectly content to travel in pokéballs. When stationary they should be allowed to dig into soil. Petilil trainers and lilligant trainers unconcerned with flower quality can leave the plant outside or in a shallow pot of good soil. In order to maintain flower quality very specific soil blends at ideal temperatures and moistures are required, as well as occasional exposure to very specific scents. Under no circumstances should the lilligant be allowed to mate (see Breeding). Trainers particularly concerned with flower maintenance should consult the specialist literature.

It is safe to harvest petilil leaves for consumption at a rate of one leaf per ten days.

Wild petilil have very simiar requirements to their domesticated counterparts. Wild lilligant’s needs can differ considerably. To start with, wild lilligant are considerably more active and social than their domesticated counterparts. They will sometimes uproot themselves to explore or manipulate their environment. Wild lilligant often take an interest in human music and dance, providing an easy means of enrichment. They are also quite expressive with their changes in posture and movement. After their trainer has learned what various steps mean they can communicate by reading the lilligant’s dances. Some trainers can even communicate back with dances of their own.

Wild lilligant will attempt to carve their own path to sunlight if they are not receiving enough. They should be provided with an open plot of land with reasonable soil quality and direct access to sunlight most days of the week. Wild lilligant rarely need additional water. It should be offered only in very dry areas, after intense fights, or if the lilligant appears agitated for unclear reasons.

Illness

Lilligant flowers are prone to wither away or even rot. This is a natural part of their life cycle and is not a cause for concern. If any other area of a lilligant’s body starts to rot that is a sign of a late-stage parasitic or bacterial infection that must be treated as soon as possible. The same goes for white molds coating any part of the body or abrupt changes in color. Wilting of non-flower parts is usually a sign of dehydration. The lilligant should be moved to a wetter area or have their soil dampened, but not waterlogged.

Wild lilligant also have their leaves rot or even fall out. This is also natural if it only occurs once every few months. The lilligant will root themselves and spend several weeks in place until the leaf regrows.

Lilligant Fracturing Disease (LFD) once defined the species in culture. The viral infection caused changes in pigmentation that led to beautiful patterns of red, blue, green, and yellow to appear on a lilligant or petilil’s body. The disease inspired a great deal of artwork and was deliberately spread. Unfortunately, the infection dramatically reduced fertility and lifespan and led to the demise of nearly all known lilligant within a few generations. Of the domesticated lilligant subspecies, only the Unovan population survived. Reintroduction efforts have subsequently introduced the species back to much of its former range, although parts of Europe have become too polluted to successfully support a wild population.

Wild lilligant were believed to be lost altogether until they were rediscovered in Hisui. They have since suffered from the remnants of LFD and a variety of other illnesses and parasites that had not made their way to Hisui. The Alolan population has become rather resilient over time. Prudent trainers should still have a well-qualified plant veterinarian check on their lilligant once a month to test for illnesses that may not be immediately apparent.

Evolution

Petilil begin to evolve in their second autumn of life. After a brief scouting period to find the best place to begin the process the pokémon partially buries itself and grows dormant. First the bulb begins to expand and the eyespots are subsumed under the new layers. Then a stalk and second bulb begin to bloom. Finally, the leaves on the lilligant’s head begin to develop. The entire process takes three to four weeks. At the end the new lilligant awakens and either uproots themselves or stays in place, depending on the species and quality of the area.

Botanists in Iberia have successfully evolved domesticated petilil at seven months of age through the use of a greenhouse that simulated an accelerated seasonal cycle. This is impractical for most trainers to replicate and no facility for doing so currently exists in Alola.

Battling

Domesticated lilligant suffer heavily from their lack of mobility. They also are not bulky enough to serve as immobile special tanks, although their solar beams and magical leaves are rather powerful. Pokémon such as venusaur, tropius, and tangrowth largely fill lilligant’s potential niche. Quiver dance is an effective setup move but even when boosted lilligant are slow. Lilligant also has very little ability to manipulate non-grass elements and can be shut down by any bulky pokémon that resist grass attacks.

Island challengers wishing to use domesticated lilligant should prioritize power training at first. Once solar beam and magical leaf are mastered defensive tactics can be learned. Ideally lilligant should be sent in against a special attacker it can overpower at range. Anything that tries to get close can be put to sleep. Unfortunately sleep powder does tend to set in after lilligant has taken critical amounts of damage. Lilligant can overpower many early opponents, and petill are durable enough to hold up on the first island, but eventually they will stop being able to pull their weight.

Wild lilligant are far more useful in combat. Their superior mobility lets them outpace many animal pokémon. Dancing can be used to funnel elemental energy into their limbs for a temporary boost of strength or to unleash a variety of slashing attacks upon their enemies. The major drawback of these dances are that they tend not to vary much from fight to fight. Trainers with access to archival footage and enough time to study it can find ways to exploit the patterns in the lilligant’s dances. Their smaller core bodies also prevent them from storing the quantity and variety of powders that domesticated lilligant can. Wild lilligant still possess the strength, speed, and grace, to hold their own until the very end of the island challenge. Trainers should just be aware that they will find some difficulty breaking in to the competitive circuits.

Acquisition

Domesticated petilil and lilligant can be found in most of the region’s garden supply stores and specialty pokémon dealerships. Specimens bred for blooming can be very expensive, potentially costing hundreds of thousands of dollars. Most lilligant are far cheaper and can be purchased for one to three thousand dollars. Petilil not bred for display tend to cost less than one thousand dollars. Petilil can be adopted or purchased with Class II license. Lilligant may be adopted or purchased with a Class III license.

Wild lilligant capture is currently prohibited until the population is deemed to be fully established. They can be found in the interiors and higher altitude meadows of Alola. Melemele Meadow is their favorite. Petilil are typically deposited in the Tapu Meadows and can be found there. It can be difficult to find them amidst the flowers. Dedicated trainers should consult meadow-specific guidebooks for more information on identifying them and where they can typically be found. Attacking a petilil in front of a lilligant or florges is generally a bad idea. Lilligant can be persuaded to back down after a quick proving battle. Florges tend to require a more thorough interview to give their consent. Wild petilil can be captured, adopted, or purchased with a Class II license. Wild lilligant can be purchased or adopted with a Class II license.

Breeding

Domesticated illigant begin to bloom in the late winter. When two lilligant find each other, they will press their flowers together to exchange gametes before going back to their own ranges. All lilligant are hermaphrodites and have both male and female reproductive organs. Two to five days later they will bury seeds into the ground. Petilil will emerge shortly after the Vernal Equinox.

Maintaining a domesticated lilligant’s flower requires keeping the pokémon constantly in anticipation of mating. The scent of other lilligant flowers must be a constant presence but no actual exposure to another lilligant can occur. Sometimes the process requires keeping the lilligant in a cool, damp greenhouse for most of the year.

Trainers who intend to actually let their lilligant breed generally have an easy time doing so. Lilligant pairs do not raise their children together. For the most part the new parents take a very hands-off approach to child-rearing in general. Once the seeds are buried in a greenhouse or garden the parent will be quite willing to let its trainer take responsibility for the petilil.

Wild lilligant have only limited blooming for a few days in early spring, just before they head back down from the mountains. Specimens that are impressed by each other will exchange pollen. The lilligant will then cut into the earth of the meadows and deposit their seeds. Lilligant will attack anything they see digging into the soil in the days afterwards.

Relatives

The original lilligant (T. runigold) could be found across Central Asia and Eastern Europe. They were domesticated for their beauty and the medicinal properties of their leaves. LFD wiped out these populations between 1650 and 1770. All captive breeds were also eliminated save the Unovan green, the founders of the current domesticated population.

It isn’t currently understood how lilligant originally made their way to Hisui. Wild populations did not exist in any of the other Japanese isles. Local folklore suggests that they had been there for some time, potentially predating humans. Ferrying by pokémon or humans is the most likely explanation. A few less reputable scholars have also suggested Sinnoh’s unstable dimensional veil could introduced an alien population. This has been documented with other species before, including in Alola, but the similarities between Hisuian and continental lilligant suggests that this was not the case.

 

[Persephone]

Commissioned by Crashmoth.

Venusaur (Bulbasaur, Ivysaur)
Ranafloris valeri

Overview

Bulbasaur have long been a popular starter pokémon in their native South and Southeast Asian range as well as China, Korea, and Japan. In recent years they have even become popular alternative starters in portions of Europe and South America.

The species possesses most of the traits of a desirable starter. They are hardy, quick to grow, fearless, strong, and social. The average beginner can handle raising a bulbasaur and it will keep up with the rising power levels of opponents along their journey.

Bulbasaur were first introduced to Alola to control the insects eating sugar cane and pinap berry crops on Alolan plantations. They had the opposite problem that came with gumshoos: bulbasaur are primarily nocturnal ambush predators, while the pest insects were diurnal. The two rarely crossed paths in practice. Most of the plantation bulbasaur were eventually released. The DNR and private hunters have culled most of the population, but a few specimens were preserved on Route 2 so that new trainers can catch bulbasaur.

Whether bulbasaur are obtained as an alternative starter or an early capture, trainers can hardly do wrong with them. They make an excellent introduction to grass-types, amphibians, and training as a whole.

Physiology

All three stages and the mega evolution are classified as dual grass- and poison-types. This ruling is not disputed.

Bulbasaur are frogs. Their skin is a deep jade color with occasional darker or lighter markings on the skin to help them blend in better with natural environments.

Bulbasaur have large heads with big, red eyes. Despite appearances, bulbasaur do not have teeth. Instead they have odontoid projections. These projections, like teeth, are hard and sharp. They serve many of the same purposes. Bulbasaur’s bite is unpleasant to experience, even if it is unlikely to deal permanent damage to anything larger than themselves. Two horns extend from the top of bulbasaur’s head. These are not ears — their actual ears are circular tympanum that usually appear as dark circles behind the eyes.

By far the most notable part of bulbasaur’s anatomy is the plant growing from their back. In bulbasaur it has not yet begun to bloom and takes the form of a broad bulb growing from the back. It contains many seeds and powders that can be scattered in a pinch. The bulb is also photosynthetic and can provide energy to the frog through the roots’ connection to the frog’s blood vessels and stomach. However, most bulbasaur eat more calories than they need and support the bulb with their excess energy instead of the other way around. As they grow older this relationship steadily reverses. The bulb also conceals two prehensile vines that can be used to strike at range or to pick up objects out of the pokémon’s reach.

Ivysaur’s skin typically changes from a shade of dark green to a shade of blue or blue-green. This helps them better blend into shadows at night. Ivysaur’s plant has bloomed into a red or pink flower, although some rare specimens have a white or yellow flower. Four fern leaves extend from the flower. Ivysaur’s prehensile vines have grown in length and strength and are usually capable of supporting the pokémon’s weight when it descends from a cliff face or branch. The blooming flower can generate more versatile pollens than a bulbasaur’s bud can. Because of the flower’s weight, Ivysaur can no longer stand on their hind legs unsupported.

Venusaur‘s flower has grown from the simple bud-like petals of an ivysaur to multiple petals extending horizontally from a woody core. The fern leaves have grown broader and longer. The five petals of the fern and five petals of the flower are arranged in such a way that the ferns extend between the gaps in the flower, giving them unobstructed access to the sun during the height of the day. Venusaur’s skin has settled into a blue-green color for most specimens. Despite their bulk, venusaur are still capable of leaping their entire body length in one bound due to their powerful hind legs. This catches many opponents off guard.

The line’s flowers emit a pleasant scent that has calming properties in humans and most animals. People who spend time around venusaur tend to have their most extreme emotional responses dampened. Venusaur oil is used in several antidepressants. Their pleasant scent can also draw potential prey closer, just into range to be attacked. The calming influence of their flower will also dull their prey’s reflexes or deter some predators from attacking.

Venusaur can grow to be seven feet long when measured from snout to vent. They can weigh upwards of two thousand pounds. Wild specimens typically live for fifteen years. Captive venusaur routinely live for twenty-five.

Behavior

Like most grass-types, the venusaur line are relatively sedentary. They are ambush hunters by night and photosynthesizers by day. While they occasionally will move to a better sunbathing or hunting spot or for socialization purposes, the average venusaur is motionless for twenty hours a day.

Bulbasaur use their hind legs to dig a small hole for them to sit in. They spend most of their time in their hole with only the horns, nostrils, and bud sticking out of the ground. This allows them to breathe and photosynthesize while staying hidden. Anything of a similar or smaller size will be hunted if it enters lunging distance. Bulbasaur prefer to end prey with a single bite. Prolonged fights may require the usage of pollen or their vines. They will then swallow it, sometimes using their front legs to get the meal fully inside their mouth. Bulbasaur often misjudge the size of their prey and find themselves unable to kill it or even fit it into their mouth. Unfortunately, bulbasaur lack the ability to cut it into smaller pieces. If they cannot eat something they kill they will take it to the nearest venusaur as an offering. Captive specimens have a similar practice and will routinely present their trainer with kills too big for them to eat. They will appreciate it if their trainer cuts the meal into a more manageable size.

Bulbasaur are fearless and will lunge straight for attackers rather than running away. This is usually confusing enough to would-be predators that they abort the attempt and seek out more easily intimidated prey. Those that try to approach from behind will get a nasty kick from bulbasaur’s powerful, clawed hind legs for their trouble.

Ivysaur and venusaur only dig holes when the air is dry and the soil is moist. If both are dry they will seek out swamps or shallow ponds. Neither are strong swimmers, but they can breathe through their skin and walk along the bottom. Venusaur hate submerging their flower and will only walk in shallow water as a result. Ivysaur can close up their flower to protect the spores, letting them traverse deeper waters. Some ivysaur have even been documented hunting fish while lurking on muddy river bottoms.

Venusaur are primarily photosynthesizers. They spend their days moving around in search of the best angle for sunlight. If there is no clearing that provides enough light they will make it themselves. Venusaur’s vines are powerful enough to cut through smaller trees. The force behind their lunges can bring down some larger trees as well. Venusaur are not territorial and will happily share a clearing with other members of the vineyard.

During prolonged periods of cloudy or rainy weather venusaur can amplify their flower’s scent, drawing in pokémon while the venusaur hides in bushes, a hole, or shallow water. Then the venusaur will lunge and eat their prey. In sunnier weather venusaur will almost never eat other pokémon, no matter how close they get.

Some larger herbivores such as tropius will use venusaur vineyards as a daycare of sorts for their children, leaving offspring too large for ivysaur to eat in a clearing with venusaur. The larger grass-types dislike predators that could threaten their own offspring and will sometimes eat them out of parental concern. So long as the weather has not been stormy there is little risk to mid-size pokémon around venusaur. The frogs are also quite nurturing and instinctively try to meet the needs of young pokémon nearby. However, if food has been scarce they will occasionally kill their charges, cut them up, and feed them to starving bulbasaur and ivysaur.

Husbandry

The venusaur line are relatively easy pokémon to care for, especially considering their size. Venusaur are mostly photosynthesizers and can support themselves so long as they are given at least six hours of direct sun a day. They are fast enough to keep up with a slow hiking pace and are generally content to walk alongside their trainer in sunny weather. During the wet season they will need meat in their diet.

Bulbasaur are greedy eaters and will eat as much as they are given. They should be given one mouthful of food every three to five days for optimal growth. Sunlight exposure should be maximized whenever possible. Lean diets are preferred. Many trainers use artificial poultry or small insect carcasses. The line are also very fond of fish. Bulbasaur prefer live prey but can be conditioned to accept dead food. Ideally their food should be dusted in vitamin supplements for amphibians.

Ivysaur are somewhere between the two extremes. They should be given one mouthful a week and regular access to sunlight. At the height of the summer they can be fed once every two weeks. During the wet season they must be fed every three to five days like a bulbasaur.

All stages should regularly be offered either a water dish or freshwater to wade in. They can drink water with their mouth or absorb moisture through their skin. During the wet season they may not need to drink at all as long as they are kept outside for at least ten hours a day.

Venusaur are reasonably intelligent and can make good use of enrichment objects. Their favorite are rubber carnivore play balls that are just too big to swallow. They will do their best to wrestle with the ball or fit it in their mouth. Any toy small enough to fit in their mouth should be safe to swallow as they will attempt to eat it.

All stages enjoy spending time socializing with their trainer and teammates. Venusaur are loyal and nurturing pokémon that will not eat their trainer or known teammates. Captive-born specimens will never attempt to bite humans, although wild-born specimens may need training beginning as a bulbasaur. Their hunger is one of the reasons that it is not recommended to capture a wild-born ivysaur or venusaur.

Once a venusaur realizes that another pokémon is a teammate they will generally become protective of them. They tend to dislike fire-type predators and very large birds of prey. All other pokémon are fine. Even the pokémon they instinctively distrust can slowly come to be trusted.

Bulbasaur will dig. They must have something to submerge themselves in, be it dirt, sand, or blankets. They are rarely comfortable when fully exposed. Ivysaur dig less frequently. Hiding places such as bushes, inflatable pools, or large boxes are still appreciated. Venusaur are fine being mostly exposed, especially during the day. Hiding places such as groves of small tree, partially drained pools, trailers, and extremely large boxes are still appreciated at night. When a venusaur spends more time hiding than usual it can be a sign that they are hungry.

The Alolan climate is ideal for venusaur. As long as they are kept outside they should be fine. Only in the driest and coldest areas in the Commonwealth will they have trouble. Keep them in their pokéball as much as possible on Mauna Lanakila and in the Haina Valley. During the dry season water troughs and shallow pools should be provided in the dry season.

All three stages can be housebroken with a good deal of patience and steady reinforcement. Pans with minimal litter are preferred to avoid drying out the pokémon’s skin.

Illness

In cold, dry weather the line can enter brumation. The pokémon will grow a thick, dry outer skin, partially bury themselves, and stay motionless to conserve energy. When the weather becomes warm and moist again they will shed and eat the outer skin and resume their previous lifestyle.

Many trainers mistakenly believe their pokémon to be dead when it is merely in brumation. If the skin appears to be thicker and of a different texture and shade than normal, try moving the Pokemon to a more suitable environment. Consult a veterinarian if brumation does not end within twelve hours of the move.

Osteoporosis and other metallic bone diseases can occur in bulbasaur that do not get enough calcium in their diet. As they grow older their weak bones can collapse under the pokémon’s own body weight. Be sure to give older bulbasaur food with bones in it as often as possible. Very young bulbasaur should have the insects fed to them dusted in a calcium supplement.

Red leg syndrome manifests as a series of red sores on the hind legs and abdomen. These are the result of a bacterial infection from sitting in unclean soil or water. So long as water sources are kept clean and a distinct litter area is used it is relatively easy to avoid. If it does manifest, immediately clean the pokémon’s environment and consult a veterinarian.

Evolution

Bulbasaur and ivysaur evolution are ritualized in the wild, complete with elaborate ceremonies initiating the newly evolved pokémon into their own rank. Whole age groups are recognized at once, making the cutoff in the wild less about development and more about age. Nine and eighteen months are the evolution thresholds into ivysaur and venusaur, respectively.

Scientists tend to classify the evolutionary cutoffs as being the development of fern leaves and an exposed woody stem. This is easier to track when birth dates are unknown, and is usually more relevant to their care and battling capabilities than age alone.

Venusaur can undergo mega evolution. The resulting transformation makes them slightly stockier and gives them thicker skin. The flower on their back grows taller and gains another layer of fern leaves. A second pink blossom sprouts from the forehead. Mega venusaur is stronger and more durable than normal venusaur at the cost of speed. Mega evolution leaves the pokémon drained and in need of a large meal but otherwise has no adverse effects.

In Galar venusaur can take a gigantamax form. The flower grows disproportionately large. Gigantamax venusaur can blanket arenas in sleep-inducing spores. Their vines become powerful enough to topple buildings at the cost of precision. The only good way to counter gigantamax venusaur is to have a pokémon immune to the spores and able to duck between strikes until the gigantamaxing ends.

Battle

Even outside of Galar, venusaur are quite popular in the competitive circuits. They do not excel at any one thing: there are far more durable walls, stronger wallbreakers and setup sweepers, and better sleep abusers. But they are bulkier than most offensive pokémon, stronger than defensive ones, and have a variety of power and seed tricks to disrupt and drain opponents. It can be hard for opponents to reliably plan around all of venusaur’s potential game plans and they can adjust on the fly. Venusaur rarely carry high level games, but they’re almost never useless in a battle.

Venusaur’s strength varies with the seasons. They are at their strongest in the summer in temperate climates or the dry season in tropical ones. The use of artificial sunlight can keep them near peak condition in the winter as well, but some venusaur dislike it and prefer low quality natural light to even the best artificial alternatives.

On sun teams venusaur gain a surge in physical strength that lets them move decently quickly, better set up with growth, and fire near instantaneous solar beams. This makes them a staple of the archetype. Boosted sunlight does leave them even more vulnerable to fire attacks that can damage their plant and skin alike.

Even outside of enhanced sunlight venusaur can muscle through some walls with a combination of growth and solar beams. Speedsters can be disrupted by sleep powder, stun spore, and strikes from their vines that can break the bones of frailer opponents. Some offensive pokémon can be walled by leech seed, synthesis, and poison powder. Venusaur’s gameplay outside of sun teams is usually reactive to the opponent’s strategy.

The best way to deal with venusaur is telepathic assault from a distance. Teleporters like alakazam are at an advantage as they can dodge spore clouds and solar beams, both of which are usually telegraphed to some extent. Outside of psychics, inorganic steel-types don’t care about venusaur’s spore attacks and can withstand solar beams and vine whips for a time. However, in enhanced sunlight steel-types must be wary of weather ball. Fire-types are the best counter for venusaur in sunlight and still a solid one outside of it. Some trainers teach their venusaur earthquake, but most fire-types can win the damage race. Airborne fire-types like charizard and volcarona have little to fear from venusaur.

Absent a dedicated counter, it is important to remember that venusaur have no overwhelming strengths of their own. They can still be worn down and taken out by strong opponents playing well. It will just be somewhat difficult due to their size and power. Try to minimize the impact of spores by avoiding clouds of them and not getting pinned by vines, setting up an opportunity for a sleep powder or solar beams to hit dead on. Venusaur attacks are usually somewhat telegraphed. Keep a distance when possible and avoid attacks until an opening presents itself.

Ivysaur can use a mix of powders and their vines to deal with opponents at mid-range. Anything that gets too close can overwhelm them and anything too far can be very difficult to hit. Try to keep opponents between five and ten feet away at all times.

Bulbasaur lack many of the special skills that make their evolutions so versatile. They are still bulky and reasonably strong for their size, letting them deal with opponents up close. Techniques like leech seed will require teaching the bulbasaur some measure of patience, which is sometimes only possible after they have learned the limits of attacking everything mouth-first. They are still young Pokémon and will need to be coached in a way that keeps this in mind. So long as their successes are rewarded and their setbacks handled with compassion and a helping hand, they will grow to be loyal partners for life.

Acquisition

Bulbasaur can be found in the wild on Route 2. They are most active at night but easiest to spot during the day. On balance it is usually best to look for them around dawn and dusk. Proving battles can help convince a bulbasaur to go with a trainer but are not always necessary. They are semi-domesticated and will often eagerly go with a human to get stronger. Venusaur do not necessarily need to give approval, but the vineyard’s leader should still be approached and made aware. This will improve the bulbasaur’s mental health and reduce the chances of an attack by an angry venusaur.

Ivysaur and venusaur are usually not appropriate for bonding with trainers. To ensure the continued availability of bulbasaur their capture is ordinarily prohibited.

Some shelters keep all three stages, although the bulbasaur are usually quickly adopted. Venusaur, like most large predators, usually have their adoptions handled by the League. Ivysaur are the only stage routinely available for adoption. Breeders also regularly sell bulbasaur of a suitable age for starting a journey, as well as the occasional ivysaur.

Bulbasaur can be obtained with a Class I license. Ivysaur require a Class II license to adopt or purchase. Venusaur require a Class IV license to adopt or purchase.

Breeding

Venusaur do not mate for life. Still, mating tends to occur between socially bonded individuals of similar temperament, social status, and power. For the most part the same pairs breed year after year and remain close outside the breeding season. But if a better mate presents themselves they will move on.

Venusaur are ovivaporous. Fertilization occurs internally during late July or early August. After approximately ten weeks the female will give birth to approximately twenty-five bulbasaur. Newborns are only six inches long and still have a short tail. The seed of their plant is deposited into the back shortly after birth. Very young bulbasaur primarily hunt larger non-pokémon insects. The mother carefully watches over her children until they are two months old, at which point they are granted more independence. Her offspring sleep huddled against her during the day until they are six months old. In captivity this is when they can be separated from their mother and given to trainers.

Captive breeding requires keeping two venusaur on hand through the dry season. The male can be kept around after mating or removed. The female will tolerate his presence but he will not actively assist in childrearing. Venusaur can be standoffish with anything else that gets too close to her offspring, even including her trainer. Sometimes the mother will be aggressive towards older bulbasaur and ivysaur. Cannibalism is not unheard of in the species, although it is rare for all but the smallest of bulbasaur to be eaten. Venusaur have never been documented practicing cannibalism at all. It’s best to give a mother her space for the first three months, at which time she can be reintroduced to her trainer and non-venusaur teammates.

Cross breeding has been attempted but has rarely been successful due to the strain of the seed on a hybrid. The only successful pairing has been with whyeye, a grass-type frog native to the rainforests around the Caribbean.

Relatives

The semi-domesticated venusaur (R. valeri) have no recognized subspecies. Wild venusaur (R. ranafloris) are native to Indonesia, the Philippines, most of Southeast Asia, portions of China, and the eastern edge of India. They are smaller and much more aggressive than semi-domesticated venusaur. They are also more aquatic and have wider webbed feet at the cost of lunging strength. Wild venusaur are mostly solitary and are extremely territorial outside of mating season. Even without the size of their semi-domesticated counterparts, wild venusaur are a major threat to humans living in their habitat. How they were brought into captivity in large enough numbers to selectively breed remains a mystery.

 

[Persephone]

Whimsicott (Cottonee)
Bombacio whitney

Overview

Whimsicott have been tied to many of the greatest triumphs and tragedies of the modern era. The first factories were made to process their fluff. The cottonee industry led to the mass produced pokéball, but also serious human and pokémon rights abuses. The fluff trade both stimulated global trade networks and led to coups, civil wars, and revolutions in Egypt, India, and the United States.

In recent years whimsicott have experienced a surge in popularity among casual and professional trainers. Their fluff and antics make them desirable for trainers interested in knitting and fine with harmless pranks. Whimsicott can also make for great pillows and are usually willing to play the part. On the professional circuits whimsicott have come to form the backbone of the quickstall teams.

Physiology

Cottonee and whimsicott are classified as dual grass- and fairy-type pokémon. Both have been disputed disputed. For most of European history scientists classified whimsicott as animals that resembled plants. As animals they could not have a grass-typing. Recent research and genetic sequencing has confirmed that whimsicott are, in fact, plants with several animal characteristics. The line’s fairy-typing is justified by a weakness to iron and an affinity for pranks. There are purists who argue that fairy-typing, if it exists, requires some connection to the moon. The Department of Agriculture has not shown an interest in reopening its review of whimsicott’s typing.

Cottonee are small plants with white outer membranes and a mass of white fibers growing out around the core body. A narrow fluffless band runs around their midsection and reveals their red eye spots. Two green flaps with photosynthetic capabilities extend from either side of their body. Cottonee get almost all of their food from photosynthesis and most of their water through their skin or by absorbing it from the ground or puddles through small prehensile roots beneath their fur. These roots can also be used to expel the fluff from their body and allow for movement. The leaves can also be moved to simulate flight. Even with these adaptations cottonee are still far slower than the average human.

Unlike cottonee, whimsicott have an apparently mammalian body. Instead of skin whimsicott have a thin layer of bark. They have functional mouths and a crude digestive system that lets them supplement photosynthesis with bugs, shrubs, and flowers. The nervous system of whimsicott is poorly understood. There are a few clusters of what appear to be nerves but nothing sophisticated enough to explain the species’ intelligence. The subject is of much interest in the fields of biology and computer science.

Whimsicott have a lot more fluff than their preevolution. They also are significantly more mobile, with limbs outside of their fluff allowing them to move freely without discarding most of their mass. Whimsicott’s roots are also much longer than cottonee’s, allowing for more versatile movements of the fluff. These tendrils also make whimsicott fluff relatively hard to harvest without the pokémon’s active participation. Machines struggle to keep up with the quickly moving tendrils and manual harvesters often struggle to remove one pokémon’s fluff without getting a hand full of thorns for their trouble.

It isn’t entirely clear why whimsicott evolved fluff in the first place. It makes them vulnerable to being blown away by wind or bogged down by rain on top of being a very noticeable target. The leading theory is that it lets cottonee (and, more rarely, whimsicott) band together to form a large fluffy mass that can weigh up to several tons. The sheer size of cottonee clouds scares off many would-be predators. These clouds have also been known to bury small towns they roll into. When whimsicott form clouds it appears to be for the sole purpose of burying towns or causing similar mischief. If one is caught alone during strong winds it can travel long distances, carrying its genetic material with it and allowing for genetic mixing between populations or the introduction of cottonee to new lands.

Whimsicott can grow up to 28 centimeters tall and weigh up to 1.5 kilograms, both measurements excluding fluff.

Behavior

Cottonee tend to live in factories of fifty to over one thousand individuals. On calm days the cottonee will disperse and spread their leaves in the sunlight. The species prefers to live at the edge of forests where the factory can anchor themselves near flat, sunny land. When the winds pick up or predators approach all members of the factory will bunch together, link roots, and form a giant cloud.

Whimsicott tend to be far more active and independent than their preevolutions. They also harbor a particular animus towards humanity, possibly a grudge formed in the last few centuries of large-scale cottonee agriculture. Whimsicott are known to break into homes. While not literally capable of going “anywhere the wind may flow” as one poet put it, whimsicott can still fit into any space their emolga-sized body can and then drag their fluff behind through clever use of control tendrils. Once inside a dwelling the pokémon are prone to scattering fluff everywhere, breaking and hiding objects, harassing any weak pokémon or non-pokémon pets, clogging drains and turning the faucets on, and various other pranks. Tobacco products are almost always stolen.

Serious crimes have been reported but never confirmed. One alleged murder became sensationalized before a group of teenage sleuths and their talking boltund revealed that a cottonee magnate had faked his own death and scattered fluff around the scene in order to justify the recapture of wild cottonee and escape his debts. He maintains to this day that he would have gotten away with it, too, if it weren’t for meddling kids.

In the wild whimsicott are known to pull pranks and steal food from other species. They are seldom retaliated against because they keep pranks relatively minor and are known to help out other species. When a young pokémon is sick or injured whimsicott often bring food to them and harass any predators that approach. Sometimes whimsicott donate fluff to be used as bedding. In fact whimsicott willingly donated fluff to humans to make clothing until just a few centuries ago. In some parts of the world they still do.

Husbandry

In the pre-industrial era cottonee farms tended to just be fields with good soil, irrigation trenches, and large poles erected in them at suitable distances. Cottonee would flock to the area on their own accord and rarely leave. Post-industrial facilities tended to keep cottonee chained to each other and the poles to prevent any escape. At harvest time the field was often flooded to limit the cottonee’s ability or desire to resist fluff removal, a task itself made easier with damp fluff. Removal was often brutal for workers and pokémon alike as the plants would sometimes lash out with their thorny roots. Most farm owners authorized root removal before harvesting or even the wholesale slaughter of the crop. The corpses would then be used to fertilize the earth before another factory of cottonee was brought in.

The introduction of the pokéball led to the phasing out of chain-based farming in favor of pokéball-based containment methods. This was done more for practical reasons than ethical ones. Until the late 19th Century it was widely believed that plant-based pokémon were incapable of feeling pain.

Nowadays many operations harvest fluff with either machines or steel-type pokémon with relatively dexterous appendages. Some still persist in the developing world that rely on cheap labor and lax laws for harvesting. In addition to their thorns, cottonee are capable of secreting a substance into their fluff that causes hives to break out on any exposed skin. These reactions can continue for weeks after the substance is washed off and even leave permanent discoloration or scarring.

Trainers not operating at an industrial level can treat cottonee much like any grass-type. They requires several hours a day of photosynthesis time and frequent access to either standing bodies of water or moist soils. Placing a cottonee directly in deep water might kill and will certainly irritate the pokémon. At night cottonee prefer to either be inside their pokéball or allowed to cling to something. Many trainers have reported their cottonee cuddling with available stuffed animals or pillows.

Fluff harvesting and contact is generally safe so long as the pokémon is not momentarily irritated or chronically stressed. Dangerous secretions are only released during battle or when assessing a potential threat. Cottonee are usually tolerant of being petted or hugged and whimsicott often initiate such contact. Harvesting fluff is somewhat risky and should only be done after consulting a specialist guide. Ideally a professional botanist or veterinarian will supervise the trainer the first few times. While harvesting is not necessary it is a good source of knitting materials. The so-called “ethical fluff” industry is also willing to pay for fluff harvested by traveling trainers.

Whimsicott typically loathe pokéballs of all sorts. Even luxury and solar balls are often rejected. While they are willing to tolerate pokéballs for a short period of time if a clear purpose is given or while injured, it is recommended that trainers use the ball very sparingly. Unlike virtually all plant pokémon whimsicott require a lot of enrichment. Puzzles, mazes, strange objects, and similarly intelligent playmates are all good options. If a whimsicott gets bored it will create their own entertainment, often at its trainer’s expense. Trainers looking for a cute and cuddly pet that does not require as much attention may want to look into emolga, dedenne, togedemaru, or komala instead.

Unlike cottonee, whimsicott require food beyond sunlight, water, and the occasional dip in good soils. Insect mixes, shoots, leaves, and flowers are all acceptable food sources. At first all four should be provided in abundance. Over time the whimsicott will settle on a steady diet and only their typical daily needs can be provided. Nuts and fruit can be sparingly used as treats.

Illness

Cottonee that live in areas with highly metallic soils often struggle to thrive and produce very thin fluff with clumps missing. This is easily rectified by moving them to an area with less metal in the soil. Iron content is usually inversely proportional to pH. Soil acidity is highly variable across Alola. Garden supply stores often sell soils with a high pH. Counterintuitively, cottonee can benefit from sharing a team with a steel-type so long as the partner actively consumes minerals in the soil. Alolan dugtrio is a great teammate because it tills the soil and removes excess iron.

Cottonee and whimsicott are very illness prone for plant pokémon. Many of these illnesses take the form of either a thin layer of mold or fungus spreading across the pokémon’s surface or discoloration, foul odors, and eventually rot in the core body. Both are usually carried by small parasites. Unfortunately centuries of selective breeding have greatly reduced the potency of cottonee’s repellant chemicals against parasites. The introduction of Aztec cottonee to most of the world and breeding for tamer and less colorful cottonee has also led to a dearth of genetic diversity that can leave populations highly vulnerable to viruses. At the first sign of trouble the pokémon should be taken to a veterinarian. Potentially sick individuals should be separated from conspecifics immediately.

Evolution

Modern cottonee seldom evolve. In the past enough sunlight, nutrients, and time would almost inevitably trigger an evolution. Industrial era owners did not appreciate whimsicott’s pranks and propensity for fleeing the farm. As such newly evolved whimsicott were almost always put down, often in brutal ways to “set an example.” The psychological effect was largely futile as evolution was far more akin to human puberty’s onset than a conscious choice. Now evolution requires luck and supplemental leaf and sun stones, as well as plenty of battle experience and sunlight. Trainers are recommended to keep their cottonee in photosynthesis rooms at night while staying in Pokémon Centers.

Whimsicott are flash evolvers. Due to cottonee’s ordinarily low activity levels and the uncertainties induced by selective breeding it is difficult to predict how close one is to evolving.

Battle

Hard stall is defined by the use of incredibly bulky pokémon that can repeatedly take hits, heal themselves or shrug off the damage, and then do a little damage back. Over long brutal battles of attrition the hard stall team may eventually prevail. At the opposite end of the strategy spectrum is hyper offense. These teams revolve around creating opportunities for fast sweepers to set up and either badly weaken their best check on the opposing team or take out multiple opponents. At some point one sweeper will finally set up with no good checks remaining and claim victory. Hyper offense pokémon are typically unable to take many hits and rely upon solid matchups, baton pass, or defensive screens to set up.

Quickstall is a strange fusion of the two. Battles are won by attrition but the pokémon cannot take many hits. Whimsicott is a great example of this playstyle. On the competitive circuits whimsicott do best when they come in on something that cannot seriously hurt them. Leech seed is used to put the opponent on a timer and start restoring the whimsicott’s health. Then the whimsicott relies on its natural speed to dodge attacks and throw up obstacles to keep their own health pristine. When possible attacks such as toxic, magical leaf, or moonblast can be used to accelerate the process. A well-trained whimsicott can nonetheless stay untouched and unharmed for over an hour in the right circumstances.

The strategy has a handful of hard counters. Most grass-types or plant-based pokémon can ignore leech seed entirely and aren’t seriously harmed by whimsicott’s grass attacks and plant-derived poisons. Whimsicott struggle to do damage to these opponents and without leech seed recovery will exhaust themselves sooner rather than later. Magic guard users and other pokémon capable of negating passive damage also hurt whimsicott and are quite capable of countering a quickstall team on their own. Finally pokémon that are faster than whimsicott can prevent successful setup. Particularly powerful heat wave and hurricane users are dangerous opponents capable of burning through or blowing away enough fluff to strike at the pokémon underneath it.

Thankfully the island challenge is short on extremely fast or powerful pokémon. Even totems without a type advantage can struggle to outpace a well-trained whimsicott. Leech seed is the most essential move to master. Then barriers such as substitute, cotton guard, and protect should be worked on. The rest of a whimsicott’s training at the casual level should be devoted to agility and evasion drills where the pokémon must dodge weak attacks from teammates. Some guides recommend teaching hurricane to whimsicott to bypass grass-types. However if a whimsicott is fighting other grass-types it will probably lose regardless of what weak attacks it knows.

Cottonee are not suited to quickstall. With leech seed and a grass- or fairy-type attack they can make passable walls or bulky pivots in low level competitions. Attempting to dodge anything is an exercise in futility. Like gyarados, golisopod, and milotic a prospective whimsicott trainer must suffer through a great deal of losing battles before finally getting a powerful ally.

Acquisition

Permanent whimsicott capture is prohibited to help bolster the wild population of naturally evolving cottonee. These whimsicott are not expected to stay on the archipelago where they are invasive. Instead wild-caught whimsicott can be handed over to the DNR for export to their native range in the mainland. The DNR is willing to pay bounties of $500 for naturally occurring whimsicott.

Cottonee are most common in the areas around the tapu meadows. The edges of forests are also good places to find them. Through drifting clouds cottonee have established themselves on all four tapu islands and several of the minor ones. While not as overabundant as raticate or gumshoos, it is not particularly hard to find cottonee. While some may be initially resistant to capture most quickly adjust to captivity so long as adequate sunbathing opportunities are provided.

Cottonee can be captured, adopted, or purchased with a Class II license. Whimsicott can be adopted or purchased with a Class III license.

Breeding

Unlike almost all pokémon, the final stage of the cottonee line is incapable of reproduction. Instead cottonee reproduce and then become sterile upon evolution. In the early Spring cottonee release huge clouds of spores. Some of these spores collide and bond with another. The pair then summons latent grass energy to form a seed. Once the cottonee drift on all local whimsicott come together to bury and look after the seeds. The new cottonee stay in place for roughly two months before becoming large and fluffy enough to venture out on their own. Some of the whimsicott will watch after them for another month before the new factory is finally left alone.

Captive breeding of cottonee is virtually impossible outside of large factories. Even with the sheer number of spores produced bonding can still be relatively unlikely. In any case the need to stay put for long periods of time is not helpful for many traveling trainers.

Relatives

The whimsicott found in Alola are the domesticated species, B. whitney. They have been introduced to plantations around the world. As in Alola, many of these places have since become home to feral populations.

The Indian cottonee (B. arboribus) are rather arboreal. In fact they are symbiotic with a tree species that lives on the subcontinent. The tree produces no leaves but makes many branches that grow out horizontally. Cottonee burrow into these branches and use them for protection from windstorms. In return the cottonee give some of their extra glucose to the tree so that it may survive. This species was rendered nearly extinct in the 18th and 19th centuries. The new large-scale farmers began clearing the trees and exterminating the cottonee to make room for new farms of Mesoamerican (and later domesticated) cottonee. While the population has begun to recover in recent decades less than 50,000 individuals remain.

Wild Mesoamerican cottonee (B. primitava) are also nearly extinct. The species is very similar to their domesticated counterpart, albeit with a smaller size, thicker and thornier tendrils, and more toxic fluff. The whimsicott of Mesoamerica had an established relationship with the local peoples, giving fluff in exchange for shelter. The Aztec Triple Alliance was the hub of a continent-wide trade in fluff and local artisans had become skilled at making it safe to touch. Many of these methods and customs were lost in the race to replace conventional harvesting with large-scale agriculture to keep up with production in other parts of the world. As in India wild populations were eliminated wholesale. Today the species is limited to national parks and other protected areas in Anahuac, Texas, and Orre.

 

[Persephone]

CN: Sexual Assault

Golduck (Psyduck)

Overview

Female golduck are relatively well adjusted and nurturing pokémon, albeit ones with an understandable misandrist streak. Male golduck are entirely unpleasant to each other and every species around them and can not be recommended under any circumstances. The males are still more common than females in captivity in large part because of the Kappa Order named and modeled after them. The last four governors, nine DNR heads, and three state supreme court justices have all been Kappa alums making the removal of golduck from the archipelago nigh-impossible. Until political realities change the people and psyduck of Alola must continue to suffer the wrath of golduck and their human imitators.

Physiology

Both golduck and psyduck are classified as pure water-types. Despite their appearances and name, golduck are not birds but rather monotreme mammals. This makes them poor candidates for a flying-type designation. While a psychic typing seems logical at first glance, golduck have rather weak psychic powers and psyduck only begin to display telepathic abilities when under extraordinary stress. This is common in the wild, especially among males (see Illness), but as it is not present in healthy juveniles and fades by adulthood a psychic typing has not been granted at this time. Golduck have mildly venomous claws, but not to the extent typical of poison-types.

Psyduck are stout bipeds with thick but short gold fur. A large bill extends from their head. The bill is lined with small jagged ridges that are useful for cutting vegetation. The pokémon have webbed feet and a short tail that is used as a rudder. A sparse tuft of black fur adorns the top of their head. Most of the time psyduck’s pupils are very small compared to the sheer size of their eyes. This is a sign of a headache (see Illness).

Golduck are much more slender and have blue fur instead of gold. Their toes and fingers are longer with webbing between them and the tail grows longer and more maneuverable as well. Four spines extend from the back of golduck’s head. These spines, as well as the claws at the ends of their fingers and toes, are mildly venomous. The venom can cause dizziness, nausea, short term memory loss, and impulsive behavior in humans. A small red bump rests between both eyes. This functions in a similar way to the lateral lines on sharks and lets golduck detect nearby organisms in the water.

Golduck can reach heights of 1.8 meters and typically weigh 30 to 45 kilograms. Males typically live for three to five years in the wild and captivity but can live up to fifteen. Females routinely live for ten to fifteen years.

Behavior

Golduck live in sex-segregated groups. Sororities of female golduck tend to be relatively calm arrangements with an elder in charge of a loose hierarchy. Psyduck are typically nurtured by all adult females. Adults spend most of their day in the water eating grasses and any fish unfortunate enough to swim too close. They also appear to swim for recreational purposes. As they grow older psyduck begin to enter the water and browse under the supervision of the golduck. Despite their reputation for peacefulness, any golduck that gets too fat or thin tends to be first mocked and later banished from the group. Psyduck whose fur isn’t blond enough for their mother’s tastes are often abandoned.

Fraternities are an entirely different story. Strict but fluctuating hierarchies are enforced by brutal acts of dominance including anal rape, physical violence, group harassment, and the force-feeding of cucumbers. Psyduck are exploited and bullied by adults. In fact, psyduck do most of the resource gathering for golduck instead of the other way around. Most juveniles end up sleep deprived and incredibly stressed to the point where they can barely think. While this altered state does awaken latent powers the psyduck are unable to focus well enough to control them. Any mistakes are socially, physically, or sexually punished by the entire fraternity. Hazing continues at least up to evolution, at which point the new golduck is eager to vent their frustrations on any unfortunate psyduck or golduck that is weaker than them.

Sororities often dig riverside tunnel systems for young to rest in. Alternatively they have been known to rest on cliff faces overlooking the water. Many Kappa Orders build large houses and give them to wild golduck fraterinities to reside in and eventually destroy. At this time another, typically better, house will be provided in short order. In 2013 then-Governor Griswold was recalled for using tax dollars to construct a lavish mansion for the wild golduck of North Hau’oli. The election was later voided by the state Supreme Court in an opinion written by another Kappa Order member. The golduck mansion has a paid cleaning staff and even a chef to care for the pokémon. At least one maid broke her NDA after quitting to discuss the treatment shown to her by the people and pokémon at the site. The state supreme court subsequently upheld a defamation judgment of $7,000,000. She was subsequently arrested for pokémon abuse by a Kappa alum sheriff and tried by a Kappa alum judge. Even after the key witnesses admitted to perjury the state supreme court upheld her conviction.

Husbandry

Psyduck are one of the very few pokémon that are best obtained as an egg and then entirely raised by humans. Virtually all psyduck raised by golduck, male or female, have behavioral disorders that are only likely to worsen with time. Psyduck raised by humans are often playful, loyal, affectionate, and surprisingly intelligent pokémon. Even outside of Kappa Order families psyduck has gained some popularity as a starter Pokémon. Children are given the egg months before they would set off on their journey and then get to raise a pokémon under their parent’s watchful eye. By the time the journey comes around the psyduck is grown enough to battle and has a connection with their trainer.

Wild-born male psyduck typically need a period of recuperation where they are kept away from battles and given adequate food and plenty of time to rest. Any larger pokémon that might pick on the new team member should be kept in line or at least kept away from the psyduck.

Wild-caught female psyduck and golduck tend to have problems with their diet. The best diet for psyduck and golduck is primarily based on seaweed (or freshwater grasses if readily obtainable) with crustaceans and small fish thrown in as an occasional treat. Female psyduck and golduck often outright refuse to eat anything and can suffer health consequences as a result (see Illness). Female golduck are also well-known for their misandry. Male trainers will be ignored or outright attacked. Even female trainers can see their male pokémon, friends, or relatives harassed. This problem is seldom present in females raised by humans.

Males are known for very different behavioral issues. In particular they are fond of shoving their hand into the anus of other pokémon and even humans. Females in particular are often targeted. They will do anything to access their beloved cucumbers and will throw tantrums if deprived. Giving in hardly makes the situation better as the newly emboldened pokémon will often break property or hurt itself or others. Males will often attempt to bully weaker pokémon on the team with occasionally lethal results. Again, these issues are seldom present in golduck raised by humans who do not emulate these behaviors.

Outside of their unique behavioral needs golduck have more standard care requirements. Golduck prefer to have regular access to freshwater to swim in. When possible golduck should be allowed to forage for their food underwater. Alternatively simple pokémon toys can be used for enrichment.

Female golduck naturally live in burrows. As such they like enclosed spaces and can learn to use closed-top litter boxes. Captive-raised psyduck of both sexes will happily do the same. Golduck-raised males will invariably trash any dwelling they are given and defecate wherever they wish. They are best held outside with a shed or doghouse for shelter from the elements. Be advised that the golduck will attempt to break into nearby homes out of spite. Additionally the DNR and most district attorneys are extremely sensitive to any complaints about golduck welfare.

Illness

Due to a strange blend of bacteria in their gut golduck can get drunk by eating cucumbers. Golduck-raised males prefer to be inebriated and will do everything in their power to obtain cucumbers. Wild females and hand-reared males still enjoy occasional access as a reward. There are no direct health concerns from feeding an adult golduck a cucumber every one to three weeks. Indirect health risks include injuries suffered on accident or as a result of dares from other golduck. Long-term perpetual intoxication can lead to organ failure and death.

Females often struggle with an unwillingness to eat. Many trainers unwittingly exacerbate the problem by providing a subpar diet or limiting food intake. Female golduck, unless chronically overweight, should be allowed to eat as much food as they want. Ideally foraging games will be provided to encourage eating. In dire situations an abundance of treat foods (eggs, cucumbers, crustaceans, fish) can be offered.

When under extreme stress psyduck can develop powerful migraines. These headaches are nearly incapacitating and make the pokémon avoid bright lights, loud noises, and most social interaction. In this state they can also use powerful telepathic attacks. The psyduck has little to no control over these powers and is prone to hurting itself just as much as its enemies. Migraines can easily be avoided by treating the pokémon with a modicum of decency.

Evolution

Psyduck flash evolve after enduring a certain amount of lifetime stress. Male psyduck raised by golduck typically evolve nine to fifteen months after hatching. Female psyduck and hand-raised males evolve twelve to twenty months after hatching. Later evolutions tend to produce larger and more emotionally stable golduck.

Battle

Golduck have a niche as a counter to weather teams. For reasons that are currently unknown some golduck can greatly weaken attack-summoned weather. In turn they resist the main attacks of hail, sun, and rain teams and can punish most sand setters and abusers. Unfortunately golduck are somewhat lacking in power or speed outside of the water and can be easily overpowered on the competitive circuits. =

Casual trainers do not frequently run weather teams. As such golduck are relegated to the role of a decent mixed attacker that can abuse pools of water. There is another small niche: golduck are effective taunters and psychological warriors. They can quickly strip psychology-based boosts and manipulate the mood of their opponents.

Many trainers believe that psyduck are powerful telepathic attackers. This is false in captivity. In fact a psyduck that does develop these powers is likely to result in a pokémon welfare investigation if used in any official battle. Instead psyduck can be used as modestly powerful special attackers for their size and maturity. Water, ice, and psychic attacks can strike down relatively weak foes from a distance and desperate claw attacks can work up close. Psyduck are not built for the rigors of combat but can at least hold their own against other small pokémon until they evolve.

Male psyduck are often reluctant to battle as this is seen as their trainer bullying them via another pokemon. By contrast, male golduck are often all too eager to vent their rage on weaker opponents. Trainers should keep both reactions in mind.

Acquisition

Golduck can be found in the wild in the freshwater streams and ponds of Melemele and Poni Islands. Psyduck can be captured with a Class III license. Fraternities will typically refuse to relinquish their psyduck. However, the individual psyduck will be quite happy to run away with a human if confronted alone. Proving battles are not only unnecessary but likely to convince the pokémon that his trainer is just another bully.

Sororities typically do require proving battles to capture a psyduck. Be forewarned that male trainers will be rejected, perhaps violently so. It is a good idea to use a female pokémon in the proving battle.

Many “wild” psyduck and golduck are in fact owned by a Kappa Order chapter. Ordinarily it is not legal for private individuals to own pokémon that live exclusively in the wild on property not owned by the individual. There is an exception written into the law for golduck and psyduck. If a pokéball fails to catch a wild psyduck this is why.

Golduck can also be captured with a Class III license. This is generally only viable for recently evolved females. If a golduck wants to go with a trainer she will engage in a proving battle instead of a psyduck. Male golduck rarely wish to go with a human trainer. Those that do, typically newly evolved males that are disgusted with their fraternity, will privately seek out nearby humans.

As mentioned above it is best to raise golduck from an egg when possible. These eggs can be obtained directly from a Kappa Order chapter at a high price. Alternatively some local breeders sell eggs or hatchlings. Hand-reared hatchlings are typically more expensive than an egg but have often already gone through the most difficult stages of husbandry (see Breeding) and are already attached to humans. Psyduck can be purchased with a Class I license. Golduck require a Class II license to purchase. Neither can be adopted as all abandoned members of the line are given to the Kappa Order.

Breeding

Golduck fraternities are known to raid the territory of sororities at night. It is possible that two wild golduck have had consensual reproduction. It has never been observed. Typically the males will compensate for their smaller average size by taking advantage of the element of surprise or banding up with another fraternity to be able to overpower more females. In some parts of their range the females have begun setting up so-called “mixers” to make the process less painful. In these events some females will consume multiple cucumbers and then wander into fraternity territory. The fraternities, in exchange, are expected to stop raids on sororities. The process seems unpleasant for the females that do attend but spares psyduck and absolutely unwilling golduck from the trauma of a raid.

Pregnancy lasts for five months at which point eggs are laid. The eggs take another six weeks to hatch. Golduck lack mammary glands and young psyduck are immediately put onto a solid diet. Psyduck do not leave their burrow for the first three months of life and are not allowed to roam unsupervised for another three to four weeks.

Hand-raised golduck often mimic human relationship dynamics. They often form monogamous pairings, although they seldom mate for life. The male sometimes helps raise the children and the trainer is usually expected to help. For advice on egg incubation consult the specialist literature. After hatching the psyduck should be kept in a warm, enclosed space that both parents have access to. The psyduck can either be handfed or additional food can be given to the parents to distribute. Psyduck are not capable of swimming until they are three months old. Do not give a younger psyduck access to deep water.

Subspecies

Golduck are native to southern Japan but have since been distributed worldwide. Particularly large concentrations exist in the American Southeast, Australia, and Eastern Europe.

No subspecies are recognized.

 

[Persephone]

Jynx (Smoochum)

Overview

Even by the standards of true psychics jynx are strange creatures. They possess a limited ability to temporarily discard or entirely reform their body from moisture in the air. Rather than feeding on emotions jynx feed on general brain activity of creatures they are linked to. Strangest of all jynx readily change their behaviors and even their appearance to match the human society around them.

While jynx do not require high PSY scores to wield they are unable to provide translation. Trainers who want a psychic-type for that purpose should look into another species. Musically inclined trainers, aspiring researchers, and rain specialists can still find jynx a strange but friendly and relatively low maintenance pokémon.

Physiology

Jynx and smoochum are classified as dual psychic- and ice-type pokémon. Their nature as true psychics necessitates the first typing. While technically jynx exhibit a form of hydrokinesis rather than proper cryokinesis their very low body temperature and propensity for ice-type attacks suggests a secondary ice typing is suitable.

Jynx is notable for changing the appearance of all individuals worldwide within a generation. It is widely believed that jynx’s skin was previously pitch black. This is inaccurate: jynx had no skin. A shadowy form held up a set of clothing and hair made of slightly impure ice crystals. When frightened jynx would fade into the shadows around them and abandon their physical trappings.

In the 1960s jynx began to grow skin. The trend started in North America where changing attitudes around proper conduct led to a backlash against blackface. Jynx shows were caught up in the backlash and often cancelled as a result. Within five years most of the jynx around Unova had developed a physical form with dark purple skin. This body is not properly organic but is instead made of ice crystals. Despite this there are layers of different densities and structures that seem to function as organs. Whether or not they serve a purpose or are merely ornamental is unknown. From Unova the trend of making physical bodies to inhabit spread worldwide until by 1985 every population of jynx in the world, even the remote wild populations, had adopted it.

Smoochum were first sighted in 1999. They, too, have spread across almost every jynx population. They are roughly humanoid with slightly exaggerated feminine proportions. Most populations have blonde hair and a mix of purple and light brown skin. As with jynx multiple hair colors have been detected. As jynx bodies are purely ornamental the pokémon can presumably have whatever hair color she wants.

Smoochum appear to be biological organisms in a way that jynx simply are not. To start with they regularly eat food, drink water, and excrete waste. Their lips also seem functional and highly sensitive as smoochum insist on pressing them against any new surface they encounter. Furthermore damage short of the total destruction of their physical body can result in death (see Illness).

The largest jynx can reach heights of 1.7 meters and weigh up to 46 kilograms. Increasing size is usually a sign of power and comfort as more mass requires more psychic energy to maintain. Like most true psychics jynx have an average lifespan equivalent to the nearby human population.

Behavior

Jynx appear to have a very complex language system that sounds nearly human. Across the world jynx language shifts to mirror the sounds of the local human tongues. These languages are entirely incomprehensible. Linguists have spent their entire lives trying to decipher jynx languages and failed. Even telepathic humans and pokémon have never been able to receive an understandable response from a jynx. Mind links can even be painful and result in a long bouts of vertigo and/or aphasia. Recent lab studies suggest that jynx communicate with each other through telepathic signals and that their language is purely for show.

Unlike most true psychics jynx do not feed on emotions. Instead they seem to absorb either kinetic or mental energy through their dances. When jynx begin to dance and sing it creates a signal sent out to all humanoid organisms in the area. Eventually their nervous systems are coopted and they begin to join in the movements. The process is harmless aside from potential damage from being made to perform maneuvers the body may not be fit enough to comfortably handle. In the worst case scenario people with some control over their legs but very low leg strength can involuntarily get up and collapse after a few seconds or minutes. Jynx do seem apologetic when this happens and immediately stop dancing.

Most jynx have voluntarily moved into captivity, especially after the invention of air conditioning. They perform in dance halls or, increasingly, yoga studios. Some have private trainers that feed them and, in turn, ask them to dance, battle, or sing. Jynx do have beautiful, surprisingly deep voices even if they cannot perform conventional lyrics. In return the jynx are showered with attention and allowed to regularly feed in a safe environment. While all of the attention can lead to jynx becoming spoiled narcissists this somehow only adds to the appeal of their dance halls. In recent years several jynx have begun social media accounts where they post pictures with nonsensical captions or vlogs of a jynx complaining or singing to a camera in their own language. These behaviors do not seem to be a form of feeding. In any case several jynx have millions of followers on Snap, Trozei, Play It!, Shuffle, and the Pokémon Channel.

Small wild populations exist. Their behaviors, including the methods they use to feed, are poorly understood.

Smoochum mostly stay close to their mothers and explore their environment. They have a lot of attitude for their apparent stage of human development and are known to be more demanding than even the most narcissistic of jynx. Near constant attention from one of her mothers or a human is required to satisfy their emotional needs and ward off tantrums and to make sure that the smoochum doesn’t accidentally hurt herself or eat something she shouldn’t. Preventing her from doing so is a surefire way to start a tantrum. Thankfully smoochum have short memories and quickly forget why they were angry in the first place.

Husbandry

A jynx requires cool environments and either moist air or frequent access to ice or cool water. Her environment should usually be kept below fifty-five degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures as high as seventy-five Fahrenheit can be tolerated for periods of an hour or less. Glacier and Polar balls can work for transport through warmer climes. In general jynx do not make good companions for traveling trainers in Alola, although the presence of an aurorus, ninetales, vanilluxe, or other powerful cryokinetics can offset this. Humanoid pokémon also make good partners as they reduce the time jynx has to feed from any single source. Intelligent Pokémon, especially singers such as primarina, can properly shower jynx with attention. Oricorio can at least provide dancing partners.

Jynx feed through linked dancing with humanoids and humans in particular. Flexibility and cardiovascular exercises are recommended for jynx trainers to help them get through long feeding sessions. Even outside of dancing jynx are socially demanding and will need near-constant socialization or other enrichment. Thankfully jynx are willing to vent to mirrors from time to time.

A smoochum is generally best cared for by her mothers with occasional trainer assistance. Baby-sitting mostly consists of making sure that smoochum doesn’t kiss anything sharp, toxic, or attached to a potentially aggressive pokémon. Unlike most pokémon smoochum are curious enough about literally everything in their environment that they have little need for proper toys.

Illness

Prior to forming bodies jynx suffered illness typical of true psychics and phantoms. For the most part rates of these diseases have greatly decreased among the now-physical jynx. The only real maladies adult jynx suffer from are the occasional bout of exhaustion, vertigo, or discoloration from inadequate feeding. In particularly severe cases the jynx will not be able to dance, dooming it to starvation unless another jynx steps in and shares energy.

Their gains from reduced emotion sicknesses jynx and offset by new physical weaknesses. Previously jynx could only truly die of old age, although they might go comatose from starvation or particularly severe illnesses. Now the total annihilation of their body in an environment that is not very cool and moist can result in death. Even in ideal environments annihilation combined with dark- and ghost-type attacks can prevent reformation and be fatal as a result.

Smoochum can suffer from more conventional illnesses such as food poisoning and respiratory infections. Ensuring that the smoochum eats only soft foods for the first three months of life and only things edible to humans from then on until evolution can reduce rates of food poisoning. Keeping a clean home and, paradoxically, reducing the use of harsh chemical sanitizers can also reduce illness rates. Respiratory infections are best prevented by keeping the smoochum in a consistently cool and moist environment.

Evolution

Once a smoochum is around eight years old her parents will take her to an extremely cool and moist area nearby. The smoochum will meditate for two to six days before attempting to form a new body. A flurry of ice, snow, and cool water will coalesce into a proper jynx body. Upon the body’s completion the smoochum will keel over dead and begin her new life controlling the newly created jynx.

After evolution jynx continue to grow as long as they train and become more powerful.

Battle

Given enough ambient moisture, especially cool moisture, a jynx can reform her entire body in a matter of seconds. On rain and hail teams this can make jynx astonishingly durable. In addition to their durability jynx can also employ moves such as sweet and lovely kiss to disrupt enemy plans. Nasty plot and calm mind boosts can let jynx unleash powerful blizzards or psychic attacks.

Jynx’s second biggest advantage lies in their ability to freeze or otherwise disrupt the movements of humanoid pokémon. A handful of non-weather quickstall teams have used jynx to force humanoid pokémon such as machamp to stand stock still as passive effects drain their health. Alternatively jynx can force other pokémon to punch themselves. The jynx herself will hardly be damaged given her weak arm strength but fighting-types can be seriously hurt.

The main downside to using jynx is that outside of rain or hail they are extremely frail creatures. In very harsh sunlight jynx passively degrade. Fire-type attacks only speed the process up. Even in ideal weather conditions a few powerful ghost or dark hits can keep jynx from reforming all of the way.

Given the climate of Alola jynx are only useful with a partner pokémon or two capable of setting up rain or hail. Ninetales, aurorus, castform, politoed, or pelipper are the ideal partners. Vanilluxe are powerful hail setters but are strongly discouraged for the amateur trainer. Vanillite and vanillish are unfortunately far less effective at weather control than their adult form.

Smoochum are decently powerful ice- and psychic-attackers that can also pull off the occasional lovely or sweet kiss. They are also modestly more durable and less sensitive to adverse climes than jynx are. In low level matches smoochum can disrupt or overpower a handful of common pokémon such as non-pikipek birds. Still, smoochum’s long evolution time and reliance on her mothers makes her a subpar pick for new trainers.

Acquisition

Jynx are best acquired from breeders in Hau’oli and Malie. These organizations regularly import and breed jynx and are capable of providing specimens adjusted to close human contact and with a detailed record of likes, dislikes, and personality traits. Trainers seeking a wild jynx can find them near the entrances of Melemele caves, and the meadow entrances of Seaward Cave in particular. Wild jynx are often somewhat skittish around humans they are not actively controlling. Even if she bonds with a human a wild jynx will be initially confused and scared in cities and unused to prolonged exposure to high temperatures.

Smoochum capture remains legal due to relaxed capture rules around non-native species. It is not recommended for practical reasons as smoochum are reliant upon maternal supervision and do not typically adjust well to human care.

Smoochum can be captured, adopted, or purchased with a Class IV license. Jynx can be obtained with a Class III.

Breeding

Like most true psychics jynx reproduce through asexual partnered courtship. All jynx are automatically classified as female as they have no reproductive organs and typically perform feminine gender roles of the nearby human cultures. It is impossible to simply ask a jynx about questions of gender identity and receive a coherent answer.

Two jynx will bond through a dancing and singing competition, the details of which vary regionally. If both are satisfied with the other they will stay close for several months. Eventually one or both will create an egg from ice crystals. Through a process that is not well understood the ice egg will gradually begun to house organic life. A smoochum will hatch after four to six months. Some jynx couples have another child or two while raising their first to evolution. In any event once all children have evolved the couple will go their separate ways. If confined to the same space they will proceed to ignore each other and their newly evolved offspring.

Captive breeding of jynx is relatively easy in theaters or studios that own multiple jynx. Trainers with a single jynx will have to take her to an organized gathering of jynx to evaluate potential mates. One trainer will then need to take care of both jynx for several years. Once the last smoochum has evolved new homes will need to be found for one parent and the child or both parents. If enough food and space is available multiple jynx can tolerate each other with only the occasional fight. Trainers who cannot bear the thought of losing one or both of their jynx should plan to open or join a jynx-related business well in advance.

Subspecies

The dances, language, and mannerisms of jynx vary by culture. Eye and hair color frequencies also vary regionally. Jynx are originally from the Korean peninsula, Amur basin, and Japanese isles. Traders had spread them to Scandanavia by 800 CE, Tibet by 1100 CE, and New Zealand by 1400 CE. The Europeans subsequently spread them to much of the globe, including Alola in 1811.

 

[Persephone]

Readers with a soft stomach may want to skip the illness section on this one. Nature can be viscerally upsetting.



Magikarp (Gyarados)

Overview

Magikarp barely qualifies as a pokémon. It boasts one of the lowest energy potentials of any known pokémon and survives mostly on the basis of its prodigious spawn rate than its skill in combat. Of course, there are plenty of rare pokémon with extremely high fecundity but low adult numbers. Alomomola is one such example. What lets magikarp survive in large numbers without combat skill, then?

The answer is gyarados. Relatively few magikarp evolve but those that do become some of the strongest pokémon in the world. Gyarados do not reproduce. Instead they serve as protectors for magikarp’s habitat. If any predator species starts eating too many magikarp its numbers can be halved overnight. Environmental alterations, whether from humans or pokémon, can be undone with a single well-aimed hyper beam. Few species dare to subsist entirely or even primarily on magikarp and the fish pokémon thrives.

On the island challenge magikarp is not recommended due to its aquatic nature and general weakness. Gyarados is not recommended due to its uniquely unpleasant combination of a bad temper and city-breaking power. Gyarados is also far stronger than a pokémon needs to be to make it through the challenge. Powerful water-types such as primarina, araquanid, and golisopod are far better options. Even aspiring herpetologists and dragon masters are better off raising milotic, lapras, or even carracosta.

Physiology

Magikarp appear to be red or orange compressiform fish with the expected gills and fins. In reality magikarp are more closely related to aquatic reptiles such as lapras and blastoise than to actual fish. In addition to their gills magikarp also have lungs that allow them to breathe out of the water. Magikarp can cross short distances on land by flopping around and breathing air. Alternatively, they can use limited aerokinesis to make surprisingly high jumps out of the water and clear as much vertical or horizontal distance as possible.

Once they reach a body of water magikarp are almost always hardy enough to thrive there. Magikarp can tolerate salinities ranging from almost pure water to seawater to some parts of the dead sea. Pollution is seldom a problem for magikarp and the factories or pipelines that do cause problems are quickly destroyed by gyarados. Crude lateral lines allow magikarp to navigate in particularly murky waters.

Gyarados are long serpentine pseudodragons. A blue bone trident adorns their forehead and long whiskers extend below their fangs. Arrays of backward-facing scales form the appearance of multiple segments and guard against almost all attacks. These scales are typically counter-shaded with white or cream scales on the bottom and blue scales on top. Gyarados occasionally have red back scales. This may help disguise them in bloody waters or when the water’s surface is reflecting flames. Four dorsal fins and a tail fluke help the pokémon swim.

Gyarados have aerokinesis considerably more advanced than their preevolution. With a little effort gyarados can fly. As fights wear on and gyarados tap into more and more energy the pokémon can find itself surrounded by hurricane-speed winds. While gyarados has trouble directing the winds into attacks the summoner itself seems to be unbothered by them. If anything higher wind speeds lead to faster flight while grounding other fliers. In addition to their aerokinesis gyarados are adept at using water, fire, ice, and dragon energy. With training gyarados can use attacks of almost every type. Ordinarily this versatility would warrant a normal or dragon typing, but gyarados have much stronger aerokinesis and hydrokinesis than any other elemental affinity. As such a secondary dragon typing will only be added in the event that triple typings are allowed.

Magikarp are primarily aquatic and do not have aerokinesis powerful enough to warrant a flying-typing. As such they are classified as pure water-types.

Particularly large magikarp can reach lengths of over one meter and weigh over ten kilograms. They can live for three years in the wild or ten in captivity. Gyarados can reach ten meters in length and weigh over a metric ton. In the wild gyarados can live up to eighty years, although in captivity they seldom survive for more than thirty.

Behavior

In freshwater environments magikarp prefer to live in slow-moving areas at the bends of rivers. These small ponds are easy to swim in and new zooplankton, small fish, and crustaceans are constantly brought to them by the river. Bibarel ponds serve a similar purpose. When they must swim in fast-moving waters magikarp prefer to stick near the surface and move primarily by jumping through the air to avoid the current altogether.

In saltwater environments magikarp typically stick to lagoons, bays, and estuaries. Ponds in tidally influenced marshes are particularly good as they fill up with prey during high tide and are isolated from large predators during low tide.

Magikarp are not particularly social although they do tend to end up living around many other conspecifics. They seldom interact beyond occasional cooperation to figure out a way around a barrier or to trap and kill larger prey.

Gyarados are the defenders of magikarp populations and ecosystems. Ordinarily they stay still at the bottom of shallow lakes, bays, or slow-moving rivers and only move once every few days to ambush and kill a large pokémon in the area, look around the surface, and then submerge again. When disturbed by dredging, divers, or submarines gyarados tend to overreact and destroy not only the offender but almost everything in the area before calming down again.

When magikarp populations decline too much, breeding routes are interrupted, or the environment is threatened by pollution gyarados go on rampages. Sometimes these are surprisingly targeted against a single species or ship. Usually they are far more general. One or more gyarados team up to summon a massive storm before moving ashore and destroying a city with rogue waves, gale force winds, and dragonfire that is not put out by rain or seawater. Several ancient civilizations are believed to have collapsed after angering a gyarados. Even in the modern era where captive electric-types and even legendary pokémon are available to defend a city rampages can still kill thousands of people and cause hundreds of millions of dollars in damage. The gyarados have also adapted and begun to send up to a half dozen individuals on rampages to account for better defenses.

In Alola the last large scale rampage was in 1951 following changes in fishing laws that depleted the magikarp population. Small rampages are common and increasingly aimed at ultra beasts such as guzzlord. Even these attacks are declining in frequency as milotic diplomacy increasingly gives warning of conditions that would lead to rampages.

Husbandry

Magikarp are best held in small fish ponds or dechlorinated swimming pools. Because magikarp eat mosquito larvae these pools are usually not breeding grounds for unwanted insects. One magikarp can comfortably be held for every two hundred gallons of space available, although some specialists insist on at least five hundred gallons per specimen. There should be sufficient room above the pond to jump and either soft or curved edges to prevent abrasive wounds. The water should have a filtration system capable of handling the waste produced. While magikarp can survive in somewhat murky water very high nitrite loads can still result in fish deaths.

In addition to insect larvae magikarp should be fed brine shrimp, live or frozen crustaceans, and live or frozen minnows equal to two to three percent of the body mass of the fish in the pond every day.

Occasional enrichment such as singing to the fish, making a game out of obtaining food, or wading into the pond and standing very still is useful for trainers wanting to evolve a magikarp. It is otherwise unnecessary as magikarp have very low stimulation needs.

Gyarados require either a several hundred gallon aquarium or a large pond or sea pen to be comfortably enclosed. If a gyarados is uncomfortably enclosed it will probably rampage and destroy, at minimum, the enclosure. The habitat should have a layer of soft substrate several feet deep at the bottom. Curved or soft edges are encouraged as gyarados can be wounded by rubbing against concrete too often. Wounds often lead to rampages. Glass is not recommended as a barrier as gyarados are prone to not noticing it, swimming into the wall, becoming enraged, and destroying it. Only constantly and powerfully shielded barriers can withstand a gyarados attack. Bubble curtains or geometric patterns on the glass can reduce collisions. The Monterey Bay Aquarium employed one way mirrors with some success while it had a gyarados in its collection.

In almost all cases two gyarados held in close quarters will lead to one living gyarados and a badly damaged habitat. The one exception is that gyarados that knew each other as magikarp and live in an environment with adequate space and food will sometimes tolerate or even enjoy the other’s company. Most gyarados will tolerate magikarp in their environment. For freshwater ponds the magikarp can provide pest control as well.

Magikarp can tolerate a wide range of salinities. Most aquariums use either seawater mixes or fresh water to house them. Newly evolved gyarados have similar tolerances, although older ones tend to prefer somewhat brackish water. Filtration systems are more important for gyarados care in aquariums than for magikarp. Gyarados will seldom die from nitrite loads but they may kill several humans before flying off to cleaner waters. Fully developed pond ecosystems typically have a robust nitrogen system and do not require external filtration.

Younger gyarados need to eat food just a little bit smaller across than the thinnest part of their body once every week. Older gyarados can comfortably go four to six weeks without eating, although they may begin to get cranky towards when hungry. Gyarados prefer live food but most will happily eat frozen fish, reptiles, invertebrates, or mammals. Public aquariums have had great difficulty keeping gyarados from eating tankmates out of boredom or hunger or coaxing the snake to eat frozen food instead of the live food all around it. A combination of danger to tankmates and exorbitant insurance costs have led to most aquariums that once held gyarados to phase them out, the Hau’oli Aquarium among them. The remaining captive gyarados are mostly owned by professional trainers and either held on the trainer’s personal property or loaned to a public aquarium when not in use. These specimens typically have enough discipline to follow basic orders.

Because they have crude lateral lines magikarp and gyarados enclosures should take care to insulate from currents in filtration systems or other nearby electronics. Most home aquaria stores sell insulation guides and equipment. Trainers and institutions with the money to build a non-pond enclosure for gyarados should also have the resources to consult professional architects and electrical engineers.

Any facility keeping a gyarados is strongly recommended to either have a full troupe of Mr. Mime on site or enough powerful electric-types to quickly knock the gyarados out (see Battling). Even calm gyarados should have these counter-measures available to reduce insurance costs.

Magikarp can live out of water for some time, especially with the help of dive balls. Even in the fairly wet environment of Alola they are not recommended for traveling trainers as they require daily feedings that are best done in the water. Gyarados make poor traveling companions as the constantly changing environments of the trail can be stress-inducing. A stressed gyarados is a dangerous gyarados. Additionally it can be difficult to properly feed a gyarados while traveling, although their infrequent feeding schedule does make them somewhat easier to feed than large carnivorous mammals.

Illness

One of the most common ailments for wild magikarp are parasites. These parasites, typically isopods, will enter magikarp through the gill area. They will then crawl into the mouth and proceed to eat the tongue. The isopod will then settle into the place the tongue formerly occupied and serve as the magikarp’s new tongue, taking a cut of the food ingested along the way. As parasites the isopod are incentivized not to kill their host and to make sure it continues to swim and eat: they are seldom a serious health threat to the magikarp and removing them can be fatal as the pokémon suddenly lacks a tongue or any replacement. Parasites are best prevented by occasional doses of fish-friendly pesticides into the water. Unfortunately this does remove insect larvae that the magikarp would otherwise feed on.

Isopods are no real threat to gyarados due to the sheer size of their tongue. If something were to begin nibbling away the gyarados would simply surface and begin unleashing powerful attacks through their mouth such as hydro pump, hyper beam, or ice fang until the disturbance was killed or removed. Tongue-less magikarp rarely evolve and, if they do, seldom survive for long. One researcher experimented with using a wimpod as a tongue-replacement. The gyarados survived for a little over six months before dying.

The main captive health problem in magikarp and gyarados is abrasion. Repeatedly swimming into concrete or other rough surfaces can wear away at scales and leave open wounds that can become infected. While they are capable of killing large parasites even gyarados cannot easily defend against bacteria. The best way to prevent these injuries is to design a habitat with soft or rounded edges and minimal glass to bump into. Thick substrate beds can prevent injuries from rubbing against the bottom of the tank. Wounded magikarp can be treated by most veterinarians. Gyarados typically require dragon or herptile specialists and/or the assistance of a blissey. Sedating a fully grown gyarados is difficult (see Battle) but useful.

Evolution

When population numbers rapidly decline, magikarp are unable to complete migrations (see Breeding), or pollutant levels tick up magikarp begin to release chemical signals. When the water becomes sufficiently saturated the most healthy magikarp in the area evolves in a flash evolution. Newly evolved gyarados are typically about five meters long and grow throughout the course of their life. Despite their relatively small size newly evolved gyarados are overflowing with elemental energy and more dangerous than all but the most powerful and well-trained of adults.

In captivity evolution can be triggered by dosing a magikarp habitat with distress chemicals. Containment measures should remain on hand until evolution happens as a rampage is almost inevitable. Deliberately evolving a magikarp without a Class V license is a crime.

Battle

The real reason anyone takes the financial and safety risks involved in raising a gyarados is the sheer power they can bring to bear on the battlefield. Between their storms, physical power, and elemental attacks gyarados are one of the strongest pokémon in the world.

Most professional trainers play gyarados defensively at the start of the match using tactics such as protect, rest and sleep talk, substitute, and taunt to set up opportunities to build a storm and boost through dragon dance. With gale force winds and a few minutes of dragon dancing on its side a gyarados are almost impossible to wall.

In turn gyarados are difficult to knock out. Electrical attacks are the easiest means of doing so. These attacks deal decent physical damage and cause severe disorientation and pain by overloading the snake’s lateral lines. Hurting a gyarados has the unfortunate side effect of enraging the gyarados. On the bright side, the pokémon becomes increasingly less likely to obey orders and follow the multistage strategies that make gyarados so dominant. Conversely an angry gyarados boosts its storm much faster and attacks with more savagery than a calm one. It may be easier to win the match but a loss has a much higher chance of being lethal and, given the known risks of enraging a gyarados, referees are unlikely to award excessive force penalties.

The best hard counters to gyarados are capable of negating powerful winds or changing the weather. Salamence, especially in leagues where mega evolution is allowed, routinely uses its own raw power to knock out its opponent before reverse sweeping with the winds coopted.

Without a hard counter or electric-type powerful enough to knock out gyarados within a minute the best strategy to dealing with gyarados is to put offensive pressure on it early in the round to minimize the energy it can put into setting up winds and dragon dances.

Magikarp, while not entirely unable to battle, will seldom win a matchup on land. Their options are limited to flailing around with enough force to hopefully injure something else and, with sufficient training, slinging weak water attacks. In the water magikarp are at least capable of decent tackles.

Acquisition

Magikarp are found in most estuaries, bays, shallow ponds, and river bends in Alola. They are easily captured without a fight. So long as their new habitat is adequate the magikarp will seldom make a fuss. Alternatively many fish and landscaping stores sell magikarp. Magikarp can be caught or purchased with a Class I license. Few shelters will adopt magikarp and they can be easily released to the wild with no ecological problems.

Gyarados that begin to rampage are either put down or captured. The Ranger’s Union has a waiting list to obtain a gyarados. If the trainer did not attend the battle themselves a proving battle or two will be necessary to get the gyarados to obey their new trainer. Alternatively some private trainers may be willing to sell a trained gyarados. Gyarados can only be possessed with a Class V license.

Breeding

To breed magikarp return to the place they were born en mass. Magikarp are surprisingly adept at moving through obstacles such as rapids. Some even cross entire mountain ranges. Once enough magikarp have arrived a mass spawning event begins. All magikarp subsequently die so that their corpses can help feed the hatchlings.

Gyarados are incapable of reproduction.

Magikarp have never bred in captivity. Some institutions do take fingerlings from spawning areas and raise them in captivity. This does lead to a very high survival rate but has no conservation purpose given the abundance of wild magikarp.

Subspecies

Subtle variations, in length, body shape, mass, and coloration can be observed between populations.

Magikarp inhabit most coastal waters and near-coastal river systems in the Old World. The population in Alola was introduced from Japan. Gyarados have reduced the populations of some large fish species such as alomomola, bruxish, and sharpedo. In turn their ferocious protection of habitats has let smaller fish species thrive despite competition from magikarp.

 

[Persephone]

Whiscash (Barboach)
Piscisdeluto sp.

Overview

Whiscash are one of the most prolific pokémon worldwide, boasting scores of species on six continents. They are an important food fish in some parts of the world. Several species are valued in the aquarium trade. But, like most wholly aquatic fish, they are not often sought out by traveling trainers.

Alola boasts three fascinating species of whiscash. The Mississippian, or farm, whiscash (P. della) is the most commonly raised whiscash species and one of the most commonly farmed fishes in the United States. It can often be found in farm ponds on Akala. The Melemele whiscash (P. insulantrum) is a blind cave-dwelling species that lives in the cold subterranean rivers in the north and eastern parts of the island. Finally, the Poni whiscash (P. perfodit) is a semi-troglomorphic species that spends the day in the caves and aquifers of the island before coming up to surface waters to feed every night.

Aspiring farmers and aquaculturists may wish to try their hand at caring for a tank of farm barboach or a pond of whiscash. Scientifically minded aquarists may be interested in the other two species.

Physiology

Both stages of all three species are classified as dual water- and ground-types.

Barboach is a serpentine pokémon with two pectoral fins, a dorsal fin, and a rounded tailfin. Large barbels are used for sensing tiny seismic vibrations and water currents. Most of barboach’s face is covered in taste buds to help differentiate between food and other objects in murky waters. Barboach is coated in a layer of bacteria-heavy slime to deter predators, slip away from tight spots, and keep itself moist for very short periods out of the water.

Farm barboach are dark grey on top and pale blue on the bottom. A wavy black stripe runs along the sides and separates the two colors. They are the largest of the three barboach species in Alola and have by far the strongest vision and, proportionally, the shortest barbels.

Melemele barboach are entirely devoid of pigment. Shortly after birth skin grows to cover their eyes. The barbels grow longer to compensate. Melemele barboach have extremely low metabolisms.

Poni barboach are somewhat larger than their Melemele counterparts but much smaller than farm barboach. This species are mottled gray all around with only a slightly lighter bottom coloration than top. The eyes remain functional but weak. Poni barboach tend to flee at the first sign of light while Melemele barboach are entirely oblivious to it.

Whiscash tend to be twice as long and far broader than the serpentine barboach. Their tail turns into a proper dorsal fin and the barbels grow wider. The old lower fins are replaced by a set of pectoral fins and a set of belly fins. In addition to barboach’s ability to sense vibrations and currents, whiscash can predict and cause low level seismic shifts with their terrakinesis. This ability is often used at very low levels to move mud and detritus around to root through it or bury into it.

The Alolan whiscash species mostly retain the color schemes and other notable attributes of the barboach stage.

Farm whiscash can grow up to six feet in length and weigh up to seventy pounds. On average they live for six years in the wild and eight in captivity.

Melemele whiscash reach lengths of thirteen inches and usually weigh around three pounds. Their wild lifespan is unknown. Most specimens live thirty years or more in captivity.

Poni whiscash reach lengths of twenty-two inches and weigh up to twelve pounds. Their wild lifespan is not known. Captive specimens have only recently begun to survive for more than five years in captivity, but the wild lifespan is almost assuredly higher.

Behavior

Mississippian barboach,prefer to rest in shallow waters filled with plants. Their tail is wrapped around a plant to provide an anchor outside of hunting times. A large part of Mississippian barboach’s diet comes from worms and other insects discovered by rooting through the detritus at the bottom of the water. The rest comes from slow-moving fish that swim nearby or particularly unlucky insects or amphibians that come near and rest. In turn barboach fall prey to anything with a strong enough stomach to handle the bacteria in their slime. A variety of poison-types and amphibians subsist primarily upon barboach. Snorlax have also been known to fish for barboach and whiscash when food is particularly scarce, sometimes by belly flopping into the water in the hopes of knocking prey onto land.

Farm whiscash are ambush predators that submerge themselves almost entirely in mud and detritus at the bottom of the pond. When something comes close the whiscash will bolt towards it and give chase for a few seconds if the initial lunge does not capture the prey. When food has been scarce they may also root around in the substrate for worms, arthropods, and other burying pokémon.

Melemele barboach and whiscash live in the cool, slow-moving subterranean streams under Melemele. They have few predators but limited prey options. All but the youngest or smallest of magikarp are too small to fall prey to the small whiscash species. Instead barboach and whiscash mostly subsist on insects, guano, and the occasional bat corpse that falls into the water. Their slow metabolisms allow them to go weeks between feedings to compensate for the rarity of food in their environment.

In contrast to the relatively stationary Mississippian and Melemele barboach, the Poni barboach and whiscash are highly migratory. Around dusk the pokémon rise from the caves and aquifers of Poni Island and swim or dig their way to the surface. Once there they feed upon any drowsy, slow, or small creatures they can find in the ponds and rivers. Before dusk they make their way back down to the relative safety of the deep and dark. Their primary predators are dragonair as the dragon-types are quite capable of diving down into whiscash’s hiding place and eating barboach or young whiscash. Dragonair often drag the corpse up to the surface to roll around in, transferring some of the prey’s slime to their own body and making themself unsafe to eat in the process.

Husbandry

Traveling trainers who insist on caring for a whiscash are best off sticking close to Pokémon Centers and lakes. Oddly enough the Melemele barboach fares best on the trail as it can stay in a dive ball for days on end without needing to feed due to the species’ naturally low metabolism. In any case it is not recommended due to the difficulty in using the pokémon in battle on the island challenge.

Farm barboach are typically raised in large tanks from hatching until evolution. They prefer fresh or slightly brackish water, a thick layer of substrate, and lots of plants in their tank. A stocking rate of thirty to forty gallons per barboach is recommended for near-evolution barboach. Hatchlings can live in much higher densities due to their small size. Farm barboach prefer a worm and arthropod based diet with some mollusk and fish meat mixed in. Many commercial suppliers mix grain into their food to save on money, although this is usually phased out for whiscash to avoid off-flavor (see Illness). They seldom fight other barboach so long as food and space are adequately provided.

Farm whiscash are nearly impossible to raise profitably in tanks. Shallow ponds are preferred. Each whiscash requires at least forty square feet of space to itself. They will otherwise will become aggressive with each other even with adequate food. Food should be distributed in such a way that roughly equal amounts fall into each fish’s territory. High water quality is important both for monitoring the pokémon and preventing off-flavor. Many whiscash ponds are artificial with hard bottoms and an attached filtration system. Aerial predators typically do not prey upon whiscash but particularly concerned farmers or those living near braviary may wish to invest in guard pokémon such as manectric.

Melemele whiscash are surprisingly easy to care for. They prefer cool waters (50 to 60 degrees Celsius) with a pH between 6 and 7.5 and moderate hardness. Light is optional: it does not seem to bother the fish and they do not require it to navigate. Hiding places are good for preventing stress. Many aquarists prefer to have rocky decorations such as hollow columns and stone floors with small caves. Melemele whiscash are surprisingly tolerant of conspecifics. One barboach typically requires five gallons and each whiscash requires roughly twenty-five gallons. Vibrations in the area should be kept to a minimum to avoid disturbing the fish.

Poni whiscash were not successfully raised in captivity until 2013. In recent years the Hau’oli Aquarium has had great success raising and even breeding the species through innovative exhibit design. A layer of substrate at the bottom of the Local Waters tank blocks off a tunnel that leads down to another, quieter tank two floors down. During the day the whiscash burrow through the substrate into the tunnel and down to a quiet, isolated tank in a dark gallery. At night they tunnel back up into the main tank to feed before retreating around the time the aquarium opens to the public. Private aquarists have managed to replicate the setup with a night and day tank, both kept in dark rooms with a slight elevation disparity and a tunnel between them. They can tolerate slightly warmer waters and higher currents than Melemele whiscash and are strongly averse to light. Tank specifications are otherwise similar. Poni whiscash generally require about 50% more space than Melemele whiscash, although this can be split between their two tanks.

Illness

The main “health” problem for whiscash farmers is off-flavor, and the related issue of off-odor. These do not seem to affect the pokémon during life. Rather they affect the resulting flavor or odor at death. Sometimes an entire pond of whiscash will come out foul-tasting or smelling. The reasons behind this are not presently understood. The condition seems to be tied to water and diet quality. As such farm whiscash are actually some of the cleanest and healthiest of any food fish, despite their reputation. Farmers will start the harvesting season by catching and preparing one whiscash. If the flavor is good the rest will be harvested and sent to a processor. If it is not the fish are left to spend another year in the pond, this time with even more attention paid to water and diet quality. Most farmers keep a second pond available in case one year’s batch cannot be harvested. It provides a place for the newly evolved whiscash to go when they outgrow their tank.

Evolution

Around the time they reach full size (which varies depending upon the species), barboach begin to seek out much more food to eat. Melemele barboach’s already low metabolism plunges even farther for several months to allow for weight gain. Over a period of time ranging from of three to six weeks (farm whiscash) to an entire year (Melemele whiscash) growth gradually occurs. New fins slowly grow in and the tail fin first fades before eventually becoming a dorsal fin. The pokémon mostly grows wider with some slight length gains during evolution.

Battle

In the wild whiscash primarily hunt prey through ambush attacks and powerful bites and gulps. Their defenses mostly come from their foul-tasting and bacteria-laden slime. While they are capable of summoning moderately powerful seismic attacks, this is not something that whiscash often do in the wild. The reason they abstain from their most powerful defensive strategy is not well understood. At present the leading theory is either fear of retaliation from gyarados, milotic, or another keystone species or social pressure from conspecifics not to create powerful and annoying vibrations unless absolutely necessary.

The largest whiscash species have seen some use in circuits that guarantee freshwater pools at either trainer’s request. Their massive bulk and potent venom or seismic attacks makes them difficult to remove from the water and hard to harm inside of it. The venomous species in particular can hide in deep water and stall out land threats. Unfortunately, several of these species (Javan, Indian, Caspian) are now endangered or critically endangered and difficult to obtain. They all suffer from competition with dondozo, a closely related species that is even larger than these whiscash species.

Mwasaa binti Musa, reigning champion of the Pan-African Conference and world-renowned water-type expert, famously uses a massive Nile whiscash that is almost thirteen feet long. Miguel Cabrera, champion of the Amazonian Federation and fifth-highest ranked trainer in the world, occasionally uses an electric whiscash.

The farm whiscash is large enough to be decent in battle, provided that there is fresh or brackish water available. Brackish water tolerance must be built up over time before battling in it. Whiscash rely mainly on staying submerged in the water while unleashing seismic attacks to slowly whittle down opponents. Dragon dance can be taught with some effort or considerable funds. The effects of dragon dance allow whiscash to temporarily leave the water, although they are often slow and unwieldy in the air.

Barboach are essentially limited to spraying weak water guns and unleashing slightly stronger seismic attacks. In the water itself barboach can use their knowledge of and ability to create vibrations to throw off other fish. Very few trials have water pools available, making barboach difficult to justify on the island challenge.

Acquisition

Farm whiscash and barboach can be found and caught in the Brooklet Hill watershed. As a reward for bringing in one of these invasive pokémon some local restaurants will fry any farm barboach or whiscash brought to them. Alternatively, they can be purchased directly from farmers or through many aquarium or farm supply stars.

Poni and Melemele barboach and whiscash have rather strict annual quotas. Trainers wishing to capture one should consult with the local Pokémon Center before doing so. Melemele Barboach are best found by following the streams in Seaward Cave, either from the Kala’e Bay or Melemele Meadow entrances. Do careful research and extensive preparations before heading off path in the cave; more than one spelunker has set out into the cold, slippery tunnels in search of barboach and never returned. Trainers who wish to avoid the quotas and danger can also purchase Melemele barboach through specialty aquarium stores.

Poni whiscash and barboach can thankfully be caught at the surface. Ponds in the area of Poni Meadow and Vast Poni Canyon are frequent feeding sites for the pokémon. Trainers with night vision goggles can watch them as they surface and feed. Any light at all can scare off the nocturnal pokémon. Barboach can be caught by insect and worm-based bait a few meters below the surface. Whiscash feed near the bottom and are more likely to bite lines with fish, especially live ones. Barboach are too small and slippery for net fishing but some whiscash can be caught that way in shallower waters. Scuba divers with another water-type can also try their hand at the traditional battle and capture fishing.

Farm and Melemele barboach can be obtained with a Class I license. Those species of whiscash require a Class II to capture, adopt or purchase. Poni barboach and whiscash require a Class III license to possess.

Breeding

Whiscash mate with a nearby partner of the opposite sex. Eggs are laid three days later and hatch after another two. Newly hatched barboach are less than one tenth the length of their maximum pre-evolution size. Cannibalism from older barboach and whiscash is common.

In captivity a pair must be isolated from other whiscash before they will breed. Once eggs are laid the adults should immediately be withdrawn and moved back to their normal enclosure before they can eat their progeny. Once the barboach hatch they should be moved to a shallow tank with very gentle currents and no larger Pokémon. As they grow up the barboach can be introduced into successively larger tanks. Barboach that have reached about half their maximum pre-evolution size can introduced to a tank or pond with whiscash. Most farmers never mix barboach and whiscash to avoid any potential aggression and keep track of the populations.

Relatives

There are dozens, if not hundreds, of whiscash species. Temperate whiscash, and especially cave whiscash, are smaller than tropical whiscash. Most temperate or subtropical swamp-dwelling species are similar to the Mississippian whiscash, albeit a little bit smaller.

Tropical rainforest and swamp dwelling whiscash can grow to be massive. The Indochinese whiscash (P. titanus), the largest species, can grow to lengths of nearly twenty feet and weigh over a ton. On top of their sheer size, the Indochinese whiscash, along with its close relatives in Java and the Sundurbans, have a venom that breaks down plant matter. They mainly hunt by staying near the surface and unleashing seismic attacks when primates, large bug-types, or other pokémon try to cross through the canopy over them. the resulting shockwaves often knock prey into the water and let the whiscash feed. They can also unleash venom near tree roots to break down the foilage and expose the prey underneath. Grass-types with a mix of plant and animal traits also often fall prey to the Indochinese whiscash as they attempt to drink or ford the river. Deforestation, dam construction, and increasing water diversion for agriculture have made the Indochinese whiscash critically endangered. There are now more captive specimens than wild ones. Similar forces are pressuring the Javan and Indian whiscash.

The Nile whiscash (P. nubia) is another tropical species with a somewhat different hunting strategy. The Nile whiscash prefers to burrow into the side of the river or pond in areas where land pokémon frequently come to get water. Several whiscash can burrow at once. Once a very large individual or a herd of pokémon approach the water to drink, the whiscash unleash seismic waves and literally collapse the ground over them where the prey are standing. As water rushes in the whiscash work together to fatally bite or drown their quarries before they escape. The spoils are shared equally by all whiscash with the barboach getting any remainder.

Across the Atlantic the Amazonian, or electric, whiscash (P. rexatrox) is one of the top predators in the Amazon River. The Amazonian whiscash is unusually fast and somewhat poisonous, although it is not venomous. Its bright red tail and streaks of yellow scales make it one of the most colorful species. The electric whiscash traded its ability to generate seismic waves for an unusual talent at creating and withstanding electrical currents. The Amazonian whiscash most commonly hunts by either hiding in the substrate or darting into a school of fish and then unleashing an electric pulse. Smaller fish are instantly killed. Larger fish can usually resist the comparatively weak hunting pulses but will be killed by stronger defensive attacks if they stay in the area or try to steal the whiscash’s food.

 

[Persephone]

Dewgong (Seel)
Stellari tropicorum tropicorum

Overview

Dewgong is one of the few ice-types in Alola, and one of even fewer that does not primarily live in the area around Mt. Lanakila. They are still less desirable than other ice-types on the island challenges. To start with, the Alolan dewgong is critically endangered. Some orphans unable to return to the wild are distributed to conservation facilities on a case-by-case basis. No wild take is allowed. Even if a trainer does obtain one, seel come with most of the challenges inherent in raising aquatic species. In truth, dewgong are much better home companions or aquarium animals than they are battling pokémon for a traveling trainer. Water- and ice-type specialists, as well as coordinators who want a rarer alternative to primarina, may still find reason to seek out a seel to raise.

Physiology

Seel are classified as pure water-types due to their limited cryokinesis. Dewgong are classified as water- and ice-types. They are primarily aquatic and have moderately potent crokinesis to chill themselves and the waters around them. Unusually for Alolan species, both stages quickly grow uncomfortable in warm weather and must either seek out cooler climes or chill the air themselves. There are those who maintain that dewgong’s lack of a fully aquatic lifestyle or unusually aqueous body precludes a water-typing. This is a minority view and has been rejected by the United States Department of Agriculture and every league that has considered the issue.

Seel are born hairless with black skin. A coat of fur, dark grey on top and light brown on the bottom, grows in as they age. The skin itself gradually lightens with age. A seel’s body is smooth and hydrodynamic. Powerful front flippers and somewhat smaller back flippers are used to navigate in the water. On land the flippers can be used for scooting and sliding. Alolan seel possess tusks and a small horn for defense.

Dewgong look much the same as a very large seel. There are a few key differences. The back limbs fuse and end in a large, frilly fluke. The front flippers also grow frillier and proportionally larger. Frills may seem impractical, but they can spread out to create more surface area for losing heat. It is also likely that a predator will nip a useless part of the fin rather than muscle or bone, giving dewgong a chance to counterattack or escape. Dewgong shed their tusks upon evolution. The horn remains.

Dewgong possess very sensitive hearing underwater. It is less potent on land. The opposite is true for smell: dewgong cannot smell underwater, but they have a nose comparable in strength to a canine’s when beached. The species’ vision is weak and mostly limited to black-and-white images, although recent studies have provided evidence for some blue-green vision. Dewgong and seel also possess very sensitive whiskers that can help them navigate in the water.

Dewgong can grow to be seven feet long and weigh over four hundred pounds. They can live up to thirty years in captivity, although ten to twenty years is more common in the wild.

Behavior

Seel have difficulty cooling themselves off in Alola. Dewgong are much better at cooling the air around them than seel are, making it important for thermoregulation for children to keep close to mother. During deeper dives, the mother will leave her offspring with another female or in the cool waters around Kala’e Bay and Mt. Lanakila. As they grow older, seel will begin to hunt on their own in cool, shallow waters. Cave systems that connect to the ocean are also common hunting and hiding grounds for seel.

Dewgong prefer to hunt in the open ocean. Six hundred feet below the surface, water temperature begins to rapidly decline. In these cold waters dewgong can satisfy their temperature needs and hunt for fish. Dewgong only sleep with one brain hemisphere at a time. The other is used to control diving and breathing. During the day dewgong spend almost all their time asleep. They will surface, take a deep breath, and dive back down to spend up to thirty minutes at rest beneath the thermocline. Then they will surface again, breathe, and dive back down. This is all done while asleep. At night dewgong typically hunt or haul themselves onto a secluded beach to spread their fins and enter into a deeper, bihemispheral sleep.

Outside of the rare deep sleep or pup care, dewgong only beach themselves to molt. Once a year, usually in September, every dewgong in Alola comes to land to molt. All hair is shed and regrown over the course of two weeks. Most mating also occurs during this period. Outside of molting season and mothers with pups dewgong are solitary pokémon.

Fully grown dewgong have few predators. Dragons and large birds fear ice attacks. Most aquatic predators are too small to actually penetrate their thick blubber and score a kill. Only gyarados and sharpedo regularly prey on dewgong. The horn mostly deters direct attacks on the head. Dewgong’s real defense is the threat of abruptly freezing the water around them and inducing cold shock in cold-blooded predators.

In recent years dewgong populations have declined not due to an abundance of predators, but due to shortages of habitats and prey. Increased tourism in Kala’e Bay has discouraged dewgong from visiting to hunt or raise pups. Development and fishing in the minor outlying islands has dramatically reduced the population of Alolan dewgong there. The Tapu Islands contain introduced rodent, feline, and canine pokémon that often harass or kill seel. Strict conservation laws have led to a slight resurgence in recent years, but there remains a real possibility that the Alolan dewgong will be extinct in the wild within fifty years.

Husbandry

Dewgong are obligate carnivores. They are fed raw fish in captivity. Fresh fish is best, but frozen fish can also work after being thawed. A mixture of at least three different type of fish and one or two aquatic invertebrates is required to ensure a nutritionally balanced diet. Dewgong have a poor sense of taste, however, some individuals still develop preferences for different types of fish. Basculin, wishiwashi, remoraid, and barboach are all good choices for dewgong. Non-pokémon fish can also be used, although they tend to be less dense in calories and nutrients. Squid are the best invertebrates for dewgong and seel. Young seel can eat up to 10% of their bodyweight; older seel and dewgong typically only need 4% unless pregnant or nursing. Neither stage regularly drinks salt or freshwater.

Both stages are very food motivated. Giving fish as a reward for obeying commands is the most effective way to train the species. Outside of hand-fed fish, good rewards include fish frozen into a block, bloodsicles, or dog toys with bits of fish or squid in them. Kelp, rope, and sprinklers are also popular enrichment items with captive dewgong and seel.

Seel and dewgong fare poorly, physically and mentally, when kept without access to water. A cool saltwater pool should be provided when outside of their pokéball. The pool bottom should have dark coloration to regulate temperature and prevent glare. Land should be accessible from a ramp beginning beneath the water level, especially for seel. Freshwater can be tolerated in the short term but causes deleterious health effects such as blindness in the long run. Pools should ideally be at least fifteen deep. Open ocean access is an acceptable substitute, but supervision should be maintained to prevent gyarados or sharpedo attacks. Fenced off coves cannot stop a gyarados, but they do a good job of keeping dewgong happy and deterring sharpedo.

One problem that coordinators regularly have with dewgong is that their bladder is very small. As such they are impossible to truly housebreak. As a saltwater species, dewgong urine tends to be highly concentrated. It carries an unpleasant odor. If dewgong are taken somewhere out of their ball, it must be somewhere where the trainer is prepared to clean up a mess.

Seel will often want to cuddle their mother or surrogate mother. Dewgong are not physically affectionate. Trainers should never touch the sensitive whiskers. Better petting methods involve scratching the area around the base of the horn or running a hand through their fur from front to back. Seel, and even many dewgong, enjoy having their nose poked while playing. Putting a hand near a less playful dewgong’s mouth is not recommended.

Canines and felines make poor teammates due to potential health problems. Smaller fish and aquatic or amphibious pokémon can also be mistaken for prey. Dewgong seldom become fond of their teammates, including conspecifics. Keeping two or more males with a single female can also be dangerous (see Breeding). Primarina can make suitable partners in an enclosure so long as both pokémon have their own spaces to retreat to. If both are kept together it may be best to have two separate pools connected by a land area. This ensures that primarina can retreat to warm water and dewgong to cold temperatures.

Primarina themselves look down upon dewgong due to the latter’s lesser intelligence and mobility, but sometimes enjoy their fellow pinniped’s company in the same way a human can appreciate a bumbling pet.

Illness

Dewgong’s main health problems in the wild and captivity stem from exposure to other pokémon or animals. Specifically, cats and dogs. Toxoplasmosis, a pathogen carried in cat urine, can cause swelling of the heart or lungs. Untreated, these conditions can easily be fatal. They sometimes will be anyway even with the best treatment available. Dewgong are also susceptible to canine heartworms. Thankfully, most veterinarians are well-trained on handling that parasite. The best treatment for both is prevention. Keeping a dewgong on the same team as cats or dogs is not recommended, and when done both pokémon must constantly be monitored for potentially communicable disease.

As ice-types, dewgong are also susceptible to hyperthermia. The presence of fans in the habitat, regular access to cool or cold water, ice-based enrichment items, hail-setting teammates (sans ninetales), and air-conditioned spaces can all help. Just having the option to spread their fins out and rest with a nice breeze running over them is often enough treatment.

Seel are also vulnerable to hypothermia. Symptoms include sluggishness, loss of appetite, unusual amounts of vocalizations while on land (seel are usually only talkative in the water), and aggression can all be possible symptoms. If hypothermia is suspected the water temperature should be raised and the seel should be monitored on land for some time. If a climate-controlled simulation ball is being used, the suspected hypothermic pokémon should not be withdrawn into it until symptoms subside or a veterinarian has ruled out hypothermia.

Both stages enjoy scooting and sliding around on land. Rough surfaces can lead to lost hair and even torn skin. Care should be taken when selecting the locations where dewgong are released and the materials used in building a more permanent enclosure for them.

Evolution

Seel typically evolve around their fourth birthday when their tusks fall out and their back flippers start to fuse. With enough food and battle, seel can evolve as early as their second birthday. As soon as the flipper fusion is finished the mother will start ignoring her child. If the new dewgong insists on sticking around, aggressive posturing and even violence can occur.

Battle

Dewgong are in an unfortunate position between walrein and primarina. Walrein are larger, stronger, and have more powerful tusks. Primarina are faster in both land and water, have useful combat arias, and are generally intelligent enough to think on their feet. The titan dewgong of the southern hemisphere do see some use in local circuits where walrein are banned, but otherwise dewgong are simply not used in competitive battling.

On the island challenge dewgong can be used as a utility-laden tank. Opponent’s weaker attacks seldom pierce the blubber. In the meantime, dewgong can fire off whirlpool and perish song to trap and defeat enemies. Dewgong can also combine water and rest to heal off all but the most severe of puncture and slash wounds. Very powerful attacks can still knock out dewgong in one hit. Low land mobility severely limits the pokémon’s ability to dodge even heavily telegraphed charge attacks.

Seel are more offensive and can harm opponents with tusk or horn strikes. Unfortunately, seel are rather slow on land and can struggle to close the distance with opponents to land a strike.

Both stages are also sensitive to electrical currents, even to a greater extent than most water types. Electrical fences cannot be used in dewgong enclosures and all electrical equipment in the filtration and cooling systems must be well insulated. Actual electric attacks will break concentration at a minimum and either score a knock out or shatter the will to fight with enough power.

Lapras is generally a better choice on the island challenge, as they are more intelligent, possess a wider movepool, and can still tank plenty of hits with their shell. It is also easier to obtain one and they remain good pets and partners that can look after themselves in coastal areas.

Acquisition

Male dewgong are most often found on the minor outlying islands. Females are often sighted in Kala’e Bay and Route 15. Wild capture is prohibited.

Orphaned dewgong seldom survive for long. Several agencies in Alola and on the mainland care for orphans until they are old enough to go on display at a zoo or aquarium or be given to a traveling trainer. This reduces the incentive for poaching. Adopting a seel requires a Class IV license, a course on seel care, and the approval of the facility’s director. The number of pups available in a given year varies depending upon local fish numbers and the El Niño / La Niña cycle.

Breeding

Dewgong mate in the water. If all goes well, the female will surface after a five-month pregnancy to give birth to one to two pups. The pups are only nursed for four to six days before being weened. During this time the mother stays on land with her pup. The pup will stay with the mother until it involves.

Unfortunately, dewgong mating often goes wrong. More males are born than females, so during mating season females are often mobbed by multiple males wanting to mate. The female often dies of either drowning or repeated lacerations if mobbed. This leads to the gender ratio growing even worse and more female dewgong being mobbed the next year. Captive breeding programs can relieve some of the stress and are increasingly being turned to for the species’ survival.

Orphaned pups are usually hand-raised by humans. Baby seel do not have an instinctive ability to eat whole fish and must be taught, either by their mother or a human. Rewarding interest in live fish with toys, embraces, or more milk can help reinforce this behavior.

Captive breeding is best handled by specialists who have devoted their lives to dewgong care. Trainers with a dewgong can contact the Hau’oli Aquarium to discuss using the pokémon in a breeding program.

Relatives

The Alolan dewgong is the last relict of almost a dozen subspecies that once inhabited the archipelagos of the tropical Pacific. Most subspecies live in much colder climes.

The most numerous subspecies lives in the Arctic Ocean. Other populations live on the coast of Asia as far south as Japan and Manchuria in Asia and Cascadia and Unova in North America. The arctic species (S. stellari) has much thicker fur and longer horns. The fur is useful for staying warm in very cold environments while the horn can be used to dig a hole through an ice floe and find a place to rest.

A population (S. selkie) used to live in much of Europe, but they were hunted to extinction due to their blubber and local folklore. Galarian mythology held that dewgong were simply wetsuits for a type of fey. They would come to shore, seduce men, and then haul them into the water to drown. One of the last Galarian kings to reject the church of life was found dead off the coast from his summer home. The court used this as pretext to declare war on the old gods and their servants, killing every dewgong around the island in the process. Superstitious sailors brought the legend to other country’s ports and the killings continued around the continent.

The other northern species is the freshwater or lake dewgong (S. nepissepag). The smallest species, lake dewgong seldom grow more than five in length. They live in the Great Lakes of North America and hunt for fish in the deep, cool waters. They haul out on the beaches and small islands of the lakes to rest. Pollution in the area has led to the death of many formerly common prey species and widespread illness among dewgong. The remaining wild populations are mostly found on and around protected island parks with large no fishing zones around them. More lake dewgong can be found in captivity than in the wild.

The Antarctic dewgong (S. meridonionalis) is much sleaker and longer than its Alolan counterpart. These dewgong primarily hunt seabirds around Antarctica, sometimes even by charging out of the water onto land and snatching one up near the shore. High speeds and maneuverability help them outpace their prey in the water; sharp teeth help hold and kill it. Unlike the other species, Antarctic dewgong have no tusks and only a small knob of a horn. There are very few predators that would attack and Antarctic dewgong and a horn would not help against any of them. Ice floes are not as all-encompassing in the sub-Antarctic waters as they are in the polar ones, making the horn less necessary.

Titan dewgong are by far the largest species (S. atlas). Males can be up to twenty feet in length and weigh several tons. Titan dewgong hunt much like Alolan dewgong do, by diving deep underwater and snatching up fish and squid there. Titan dewgong are even better divers, capable of diving over 3000 feet and holding their breath for over an hour at a time. While they hunt alone, titan dewgong beach in harems of one or two powerful males and all of the females in the area. The other males are forced to live at the outskirts and rely on stealth and distractions to mate without the dominant male noticing and lashing out with incredible strength and long tusks.

Curiously, the Alolan dewgong is the most potent cryokinetic of the living species. They must cool their own environments on and near the surface, unlike the other subpecies that ordinarily live in cold waters. This is similar to the abilities the Alolan ninetales have adopted to survive as ice-types in a tropical climate.

 

[Persephone]

Feraligatr (Totodile, Crocodile)
Rostraserrantia thomsoni

Overview

The first records of something akin to an island challenge or gym quest come from the Persian Empire. Children who showed great promise were sent to the various satraps of the empire to learn from different political, religious, and military leaders and learn about the local culture. Those who gained the approval of six mentors were recognized by the emperor and placed into positions of influence. Hellenistic generals and traders would spread the concept west to Europe and the Imperium and east to India and later China, Japan, and Southeast Asia.

The Han dynasty would further codify their journey into one of eight steps – those of the warrior, sailor, merchant, scholar, priest, bureaucrat, craftsman, farmer, and miner. Those who proved themselves under a mentor in all eight fields would gain a noble title and seat in the imperial court. Many were allowed to marry into the imperial family. To even the gap between nobles and commoners everyone who wished to embark upon the quest and gained the approval of a local priest or judge was given a choice of five pokémon, one corresponding to each of the core elements. Journeyers could only use this pokémon and any befriended along their travels.

Totodile was the water starter. By some accounts it was the most popular due to its mix of ferocity in battle and tranquility outside of it. Totodile are a good introduction to learning to care for reptiles, carnivores, and water-types. They are also quite friendly and can form close bonds with their trainer.

When Chinese immigrants came to Alola they brought totodile with them. The Alolan and United States government have had a contentious relationship with the pokémon, sometimes banning it out of fear of revolt from the often poorly treated immigrant population and sometimes to protect the ecosystem of the islands. Banning its possession often led to captive specimens being released into the waters of the island. Hunting the wild population led to specimens retreating into caves during the day. This eventually led to the Alolan feraligatr becoming a separate species with far more tolerance of cold and darkness than its Chinese counterpart. In the 1980s a DNR survey showed that the Alolan feraligatr and croconaw preyed primarily upon rattata and yungoos. Feraligatr were subsequently listed as a low-threat invasive and ownership was legalized.

Today totodile is a popular alternative starter, especially in Chinese and Japanese communities. Trainers who do not get one as a starter can still capture one from Alola’s rivers and ponds.

Physiology

All three stages are traditionally classified as pure water-types. There is some dispute as to whether feraligatr and/or its preevolutions should be classified as ice or fire types. All three stages have much greater cold tolerance than is typical than a reptile. They also have a strong affinity for ice attacks, although this is common for water-types in general. Alolan feraligatr are particularly adept at using scald, heat wave, and other methods of warming the air and water around them. This is part of what allows them to hunt or sleep in Alola’s caves. Some also argue for a dragon-type as feraligatr are reptiles proficient in multiple elements. None of these schools of thought has gained majority support.

Totodile are often depicted as bipedal crocodilians. While they can stand on their hind legs, they rarely do so on land except for intimidation. Totodile have dark blue dorsal scales. Brown or dark red bony plates extend from the pokémon’s back. Their ventral scales are pale blue. A yellow stripe runs along the entire pokémon to break up sight lines when on land. Totodile’s long tail lets them propel themselves through the water. Abdominal muscles near the lungs let them shift their center of buoyancy to rise, sink, or stay in place in the water column. Out of the water, totodile’s legs let them keep their stomach off the ground at all times while walking.

Totodile have a narrow snout full of needle-like teeth. Their evolutions gain progressively broader snouts with broader serrated teeth. This reflects a shift in diet. Totodile often hunt bug-types and fish. Needle-like teeth are useful for piercing armor and holding small prey in place. Wider snouts and teeth are useful for grabbing onto larger prey and ripping out chunks of flesh. No stage has teeth that let them masticate their food. Totodile swallow prey whole. Croconaw and feraligatr swallow individual bites without chewing. Their food is masticated in the gizzard instead of the mouth.

Croconaw are larger than totodile and have broader snouts. Their yellow markings have expanded to cover much of their body. As with totodile, the yellow markings help them camouflage themselves by breaking up sight lines. The remaining blue scales are darker than they were as a totodile to help them blend in on land. The bony scales on the back are also proportionally larger.

Feraligatr are broader than croconaw. Their protruding plates are much larger. Additionally, there are several bony ridges across their back and joints to provide protection. Feraligatr have black dorsal scales and pale, yellow ventral scales.

The bite force of feraligatr is some of the strongest of any pokémon. They can bite with nearly 5,000 pounds of force. However, the muscles for opening their jaws are rather weak. Feraligatr can easily have their jaws taped shut by duct tape. This is necessary for some invasive medical procedures.

Some crocodilians have buccal salt glands that let them swim in saltwater for long periods of time. Feraligatr do not. They are limited to large rivers, lakes, and ponds. On occasion they will venture into estuarine habitats such as Brooklet Hill, but for the most part they live further inland.

Feraligatr can swim at speeds of up to twenty miles an hour in short bursts. They can sprint on land at speeds of up to thirty miles per hour. But feraligatr’s most formidable trick can only be performed in the water. The crocodilian death roll begins with the pokémon clamping down on the limb of a larger opponent. They then roll over in the water, never letting go of their target. This results in the limb being ripped off, often taking large portions of the surrounding musculature with it. The brutality is very effective for killing larger prey that crosses the rivers they live in but has resulted in the technique being banned in almost every competitive circuit.

Feraligatr continue to grow throughout their lives. The largest feraligatr are the oldest males. Females are slightly smaller. Males usually grow to be fourteen feet from the snout to the end of the tail. They weigh 700 pounds on average. The largest recorded specimen was eighteen feet long and weighed 2,000 pounds.

Behavior

During the period of DNR bounties feraligatr often retreated to the cave systems of Alola using surface level or underwater entrances. They would spend their days passively heating the cave’s water as they rested in it. At dawn and dusk they would come out to bask in the sunlight before hunting at night.

Wild feraligatr noticed that the DNR bounties had ended within a year of their revocation. Today they rarely enter to the caves except to hunt. Feraligatr spend most of their day sprawled out in the sunlight as they bask. They are cold-blooded and heat themselves by soaking in sunlight or resting in hot water. Alolan feraligatr are not particularly territorial. During the day they can be found in congregations of up to fifteen adults and many croconaw and totodile. The juveniles prefer to bask near feraligatr for protection and the adults don’t mind crowded basking places.

All stages hunt at night. Totodile are primarily aquatic hunters that lie still on the bottom of the water for as long as they can, only surfacing for air. They can go up to forty minutes between breaths. Totodile wait for a fish or invertebrate to come near them. Then they pounce. They use their back legs to push off from the river bottom. Their jaws grab the prey. It is eaten whole.

Croconaw’s diet primarily consists of rattata. At night they lower themselves into bushes or other visual barriers to hide. When a rattata walks by the croconaw will lunge. Even if the initial lunge does not catch the rattata they can probably chase down their prey. Croconaw prefer to use their front claws to kill the rattata before eating it to avoid a bite to the throat. If there are no rattata croconaw can also hunt on land or in the water.

Feraligatr can eat almost anything in their range. They have been documented killing sharpedo, lapras, araquanid, stoutland, houndoom, torterra, rhyhorn, bewear, and even braviary, drampa, and milotic. If it lives in the water or comes to the water to cross or drink, then a big enough feraligatr can probably kill it with some luck. These are not the core of their diet. They prefer to hunt small to mid-size mammals. Gumshoos and raticate seem to be their favorite foods. Feraligatr will also hunt basculin, magikarp, and feebas that get too close to them in the water.

Feraligatr will sometimes hunt yungoos during the day through similar methods croconaw use for rattata. It is more common that they will band together with two other feraligatr to seek out a gumshoos squadron’s burrow at night. One will use hydro pump to begin flooding the burrow and drive the residents out. Another will sit behind the burrow and kill the gumshoos that emerge with powerful bites and slashes. The third will guard the first and kill any that get past the second feraligatr. Even some of the most tenacious pokémon in Alola can be killed by multiple massive predators working together while the gumshoos would rather be asleep.

Raticate are much easier prey. When threatened rattata tend to go back towards their nest. The feraligatr will intimidate one and follow it to the nearest raticate. Some will use this opportunity to slowly set up with a dragon dance. The rattata that remain in the nest at night can easily be scared away with a roar or bellow. Raticate, while formidable, are no match for a feraligatr.

Alternatively, feraligatr may hunt with ambush tactics by hiding in brush and waiting for something to pass by. They can also rest underwater near the river’s edge and wait for something to come to drink. Then they will lunge out propelled by their hindlegs and massive tail to grab their prey, bring it back into the water, and kill it by a death roll, drowning, or a bite to the neck. Feraligatr have also been documented grabbing sticks and holding them in their mouths. They lower themselves down beneath the surface and hold the stick above the water. When a bird comes to take it for their nest the feraligatr lunges out and eats the bird. This tactic has made feraligatr revered as gods of trickery and mischief in parts of their range. It has also given rise to the term “feraligatr gifts,” which means something seemingly free that turns out to cause a lot of trouble.

Husbandry

The feraligatr line are social, but not excessively so. This makes them good partners as they actively seek affection and companionship from their trainer but do not need constant attention or the presence of conspecifics to be satisfied. All stages, but especially the younger ones, enjoy cuddling. This meets social needs and provides body heat. Even feraligatr don’t mind sprawling out on blanket in the sun with their trainer next to them.

Totodile are easily trained, both in battle and in smaller quality-of-life habits such as walking on a leash. A leashed totodile can safely walk the neighborhood. Croconaw can be leashed but could easily pull away from their trainer if they wanted to. Feraligatr will tolerate the leash, but this does not mean any real physical control exists. All control must come from training and mutual trust. This makes it difficult to rehome feraligatr or acclimate wild-caught specimens to captivity.

All stages will need an opportunity to bask during the day, especially during the dry season. Basking is not necessary on rainy days, but the pokémon will be more sluggish if it has not had recent basking opportunities. Even an hour around dusk and dawn is better than nothing. They will also need occasional access to a place to swim. Pokémon Centers rarely allow feraligatr or even totodile in their community pools. Instead feraligatr trainers should seek out streams and ponds. Traveling along the ocean, while good for many water-types, does nothing to help meet this line’s desire to swim. Trainers should instead look for paths that stay near freshwater rivers and ponds.

The main problems with feraligatr are three-fold: they are carnivores, they grow to be quite large, and they are nocturnal.

Carnivores are almost always more expensive to feed than herbivores. This is especially true for larger species. A totodile can be fed pre-prepared insect mixes and canned fish on the trail while receiving fresher fish when in the city. Croconaw and feraligatr diets become harder to meet. They can hunt for wild rattata, but this is not a particularly reliable way of feeding them. It also requires the trainer to stay up all night to supervise and make sure that no protected species is targeted instead. Croconaw generally need to eat at least a third of their weight in food every week. Feraligatr need a quarter. They can tolerate less, but it will dramatically slow down their metabolism. Many trainers rely on pack pokémon to carry salted meat or other preserved protein with them. Impatient feraligatr may attempt to eat it early. Finally, all stages will accept fruit. Some seem to enjoy it as a reward. It should not form a core part of their diet, but it makes for a good snack on occasion.

Despite being large carnivores, feraligatr and croconaw are rarely a danger to humans. Even wild specimens almost never attack unprovoked. Captive-born specimens can tolerate a lot of abuse before killing their trainer. Even a starving feraligatr would prefer to eat a pokémon over a human. Totodile, on the other hand, will often bite their trainer. This is not done out of malice but misunderstanding – a mother feraligatr can easily take a totodile’s play bites and evaluate the strength of her child’s jaws. A human may be hospitalized by a bite to the wrong area. It’s best to discourage biting humans from birth or, failing that, at least from the time of capture or acquisition. Protective armor may not stop bites entirely, but it can help in training. Having another pokémon stay vigilant and ward off bites can also help.

Feraligatr’s size makes it somewhat difficult to build a permanent enclosure for them once the island challenge ends. They are not easily rehomed and wild release is currently heavily restricted. Their outdoor enclosure should be at least five hundred square feet. A third should be water, including water deep enough to swim in, and two-thirds should be land. The land section will require a basking rock and some form of shelter from the elements. Feraligatr will often dig burrows in their enclosure. They will seldom make an attempt to escape as long as they remain satisfied with their trainer. Some local governments will still require electrified and/or reinforced fencing.

Totodile can be housebroken. Standard litter boxes will not work for feraligatr but litter mats can. Even feraligatr can be invited into the house if well-trained. They may even prefer to be inside as long as the air conditioning is not set below sixty-five degrees. Temperatures below sixty-five will cause sluggishness. Water features should be heated to at least seventy degrees.

All three stages are nocturnal. They may become active during the day to swim or investigate their surroundings, but for the most part they will find a place to bask and sleep. This makes it somewhat difficult for trainers to be active when their pokémon is. For feraligatr this can be a major problem: leaving a feraligatr unsupervised for hours can end badly. They will tolerate pokéballs for a few hours at a time during the day and night, but there is a point where they will start to become unruly.

Nocturnal teammates can help alleviate the problem. Captive-born todotile can learn not to attack the rest of their trainer’s team. This allows them to peacefully coexist with everything but the raticate and gumshoos lines, which are simply too tasty not to eat. They relate better to predators than prey, but any sufficiently intelligent and playful nocturnal pokémon can make a good companion. Feraligatr in particular get along very well with dragons. Some dragon specialists have even added one to their teams, either in reserve or as a core battler (see Battling).

The two best enrichment items for feraligatr are balls and fountains. Balls should be large enough that they cannot be swallowed and durable enough that they cannot be easily popped or shredded. The pokémon will love wrestling with the ball, especially in the water. Spray fountains in the water or on land are also appreciated. Cool mist fountains can also help the pokémon regulate temperature if on land.

Illness

Feraligatr are fairly hardy pokémon. So long as their environment is sanitary, temperatures are maintained at a proper level, and enough food of the right kind is given there should not be major health problems. They are also quick to heal from most injuries.

There are a few diseases they can suffer from. Thankfully the most dangerous, West Nile Virus, has yet to be introduced to Alola. It can be fatal to even adult feraligatr within three days of the onset of symptoms. Check for more information before taking your pokémon out of the Commonwealth. As a known carrier of the virus all totodile, croconaw, and feraligatr brought back into Alola are subject to a mandatory one-week quarantine.

Croc pox and hepatitis can cause sores to appear on the pokémon’s skin, especially in and around the mouth. These should be brought to a veterinarian’s attention as soon as possible. Neither will cause long-term health problems if quickly treated, but when left untreated they can cause serious weight loss or blindness.

Mycobacteria are very small cells that can cause infections in feraligatr. These can take two forms. The most common is a type of pneumonia. The first symptoms are usually lethargy and anorexia. This can escalate into discharge of light-yellow fluid from the mouth or noise and/or labored breathing. Some specimens have instead developed a form of arthritis that makes it difficult to move. Treatment of both variants is difficult, especially in younger pokémon. Prevention is far easier. Diluted bleach mixtures can disinfect the places the pokémon spends the most time without risk to its health.

Evolution

Wild totodile evolve between their first and third birthday, depending on their success in hunting. Captive evolutions typically occur closer to the first birthday than the third. The formal demarcation line is the spread of yellow markings to the hind legs.

Only the strongest croconaw evolve into feraligatr. This usually occurs around the fifth to seventh birthday in the wild. Captive specimens can evolve much earlier, potentially as soon as six months after evolving if they are very successful in battle. This will require a massive food intake during the growth period and the resulting feraligatr will still be rather small for the first few years after evolution. The formal demarcation line between croconaw and feraligatr is the development of armored ridges on the back and joints.

Battle

Feraligatr are not the absolute strongest of pokémon. Many dragons are stronger and feraligatr’s hydrokinesis is far weaker than other water-types. They still have an enduring popularity on the competitive battling circuits that allow them, even up to the highest levels.

When deciding to add a pokémon to their team, professionals must consider its ease of care along with its power and synergy with the rest of the roster. Feraligatr are fairly easy to care for as far as large reptiles go and they typically see humans as potential friends rather than as a nuisance or prey. Even trainers with hired assistants don’t want teams consisting entirely of pokémon that require constant attention to keep happy, healthy, and obedient. Several top tier trainers, including at least three ranked ones, are known to be close with their feraligatr. Two ranked trainers keep it on their main roster.

Feraligatr, while lagging behind the likes of salamence and gyarados, are still not weak. They can lift up to five hundred pounds, bite through steel plating, run up to thirty miles an hour on land, and take one or two strong attacks or many weak ones before going down. Their power and speed can further be boosted by swords dance or dragon dance. Even if they are unable to close the distance with an opponent, they can unleash reasonably powerful surfs or ice beams to strike speedsters or fliers, respectively.

As water elemental users feraligatr are weak to grass- and electric-energy charged moves. Their best counters are vikavolt and magnezone as they can stay out of range of physical attacks and strike back with powerful thunderbolts. Very strong or durable grass types can also go toe to toe with feraligatr. Some ice-types can also wear feraligatr down by making them sluggish. The tactic will not have immediate results given feraligatr’s adaptation to caves. Prolonged usage can still take its toll.

Aside from airborne electric-types, feraligatr struggle with three of the most common threats on the competitive circuits: ghosts, psychics, and dragons. Ghosts usually don’t care much about physical damage. An elementally charged crunch might be a problem, but they’re often able to outspeed feraligatr or float above an attack. In turn they can inflict burns, confusion, and other afflictions to steadily wear down their opponent. Feraligatr have no special resistance to telepathic attacks and alakazam can simply teleport away from their charges and set up protective barriers to deal with surfs and hydro pumps. Dragons can usually overpower feraligatr, even if they have to be somewhat wary of an ice fang. Alolan feraligatr have not yet been used by a ranked trainer but they’re more powerful ice attacks might make them better against dragons than the slightly larger Chinese feraligatr.

On the island challenge feraligatr are fast and strong enough to keep up with even the final trials. Knowing a few coverage moves can help tip the scales, but a feraligatr can succeed without them.

Croconaw are ambush predators without the sheer durability or speed that their evolved form has. This makes them substantially weaker. They’re often best hanging back and waiting for opponents to come to them. Ranged attackers can give them a great deal of trouble if they have not been specially trained in ranged attacks of their own.

Totodile are quite strong for their age. Their piercing teeth make them able to do serious damage to weaker pokémon, especially bugs. Many babies are reluctant battlers until they’ve learned the ropes, but totodile will be willing to run into fights right from the start. Their enthusiasm, jaws, and teeth alone can help them persevere through the first island. If they do not evolve they will start to run into problems on the second.

Acquisition

Feraligatr can be found around inland ponds and streams, especially those near caves. A sizable population also lives around Brooklet Hill and its estuary. They can often be found basking on the side of the water during the day.

Because feraligatr and croconaw are major predators of rattata and yungoos their capture is currently prohibited. Only totodile may be captured from the wild. This is difficult as mother feraligatr watch over their offspring until they evolve (see Breeding). They are protective enough mothers that trying to steal one of their babies is likely to end badly for everyone involved except the feraligatr.

Wild capture is still possible. Doing so involves the trainer appearing before the mother and making it clear that they are a trainer asking for the chance to take one of her totodile with them. She may indulge them with a practice battle, either with herself or one of her children. If the battle is against the mother she will almost never fight at full strength. It’s simply an opportunity for her and her children to evaluate the strength and tactics of the trainer. If the battle is with the totodile then be gentle and try to rely more on tactics than brute force. At the end of the battle a totodile may decide to go with the trainer, whether they won or lost. The mother will accept this and let her child leave.

In any case, it is easier to simply buy a totodile from a licensed breeder. There are at least two on Akala and one on Ula’Ula. A well-trained totodile is not cheap, but some families find it to be worth the investment as a starter pokémon. Croconaw and feraligatr can occasionally be purchased from a breeder. Specimens are sometimes available for adoption in Hau’oli and Malie, but they are usually turned over to a breeder, released to the wild, or euthanized before long due to the space required to hold them at a shelter.

Totodile require a Class III license to capture or a Class I to adopt or purchase. This is because most totodile up for adoption have been trained not to bite. Croconaw require a Class I license to purchase or adopt; feraligatr require a Class III.

Breeding

Mating begins with the female swimming into the water and making an infrasonic bellow. Humans cannot hear feraligatr’s mating calls, although they can sometimes feel the vibrations if they are close enough. One or more males may respond to the male’s call. On occasion a female may show up as well to observe.

The males will engage in elaborate swimming techniques known as “water dances.” The female may join in as well. If she selects a mate the dance will end with both crawling onto land to engage in a session of snout and neck rubbing. The purpose of the rubbing is unknown. Some scholars have speculated it is done entirely for pleasure. The theory is bolstered by rare sightings of two males or females engaging in the same behavior. Captive specimens also enjoy having their back and neck petted. Only brave or trusting trainers pet the snout.

Twelve days after copulation the female will lay a clutch of twenty-five to fifty eggs. She will then cover them in vegetation such as leaves and grasses. The vegetation will release heat as it decays, keeping the eggs warm. Higher temperatures will produce all males. Low temperatures will produce all females. Incubation temperatures in the middle will produce a mix of both sexes.

The male is not allowed to have any part in supervising incubation or raising the young. After her nest is built the female will spend most of her time near it, only leaving to hunt. The eggs hatch after roughly thirty days. The hatchlings make high pitched-squeaking sounds to alert their mother. She will then carefully dig them out. Wild feraligatr look after their totodile until they evolve, at which point she will steadily become more aggressive towards them until they leave. Until this point they are doting mothers that will allow their children to crawl all over them.

Captive mating is easy enough. A female that spends a lot of time in the water producing mating calls wants to mate. Mating calls, while not ordinarily audible, can be detected by special monitors. If a male is introduced the mating rituals and act will continue as they would in the wild. Specimens held in mixed sex holding pens can take care of mating, from the call to copulation, themselves.

The most difficult part is actually telling the sex of the feraligatr in advance. Unless the specimen is particularly large there is no way to reliably tell if it is male or female from the exterior. The cloaca must be held open and the reproductive organs examined to be sure. Feraligatr, understandably, do not like this. Newly hatched totodile do not, either, but have only a minimal ability to resist it. As long as the examiner is trained and the mother is nowhere near the procedure it will be safe for everyone involved.

There is some debate over whether feraligatr should be allowed to incubate their own eggs. The mother is much happier when she is allowed to, but the natural hatch rate of eggs is only around 70%. Lab incubation can lead to 90% of the eggs hatching. For better or worse, the mother may reject hatchlings given to her after being incubated in a lab. This allows for the pokémon to be raised by humans from birth but does limit the amount of training it can receive from its mother.

Breeding facilities typically withdraw the mother and take most of her eggs for incubation. These pokémon will eventually be given to trainers. The totodile that are raised by their mother are used as future breeding stock.

Relatives

The Alolan feraligatr is a feral population descended from the Chinese feraligatr (R. lánsèlínpiàn) sometimes also known as the blue feraligatr or simply as feraligatr. The Chinese feraligatr lives on the border of the tropical and temperate portions of China. Their population can be found from river deltas to mountain streams. Populations that live in areas that occasionally freeze enter brumation where their metabolism drops and they stick their snout above the surface of the water. They can survive under a frozen lake for months like this.

China’s influence on neighboring regions led to feraligatr being adopted as a common starter or companion in these areas, too. Some portions of Japan, Korea, Vietnam, and the Philippines still use totodile as a default starter. It is a popular alternative starter in much of Eastern and Southeastern Asia, as well as anywhere with a substantial population of Chinese descent. Most of these areas have breeders whose populations have steadily drifted from the Chinese feraligatr. The most notable of these are the Philippine’s feraligatr (R. l. gigas) which are the largest in the world.

In 1887 a ship carrying a pair of feraligatr to a zoo in Texas crashed during a storm off the coast of Florida. The escapees thrived in the Everglades and went on to establish themselves as the dominant predators in the region. Their numbers were bolstered over time by intentional releases. Some elderly trainers of Asian descent embarked on a pilgrimage to release their feraligatr into the swamps so the pokémon would be able to survive happily even after their trainer’s death. The first two feraligatr, the Grandfather and Grandmother of the Everglades, are still revered in local folklore. In the 1960s an eccentric inventor attempted to cull the feraligatr to encourage the development of the swampland. His attempt, which involved faking a murder by the Grandmother of the Glades to turn public sentiment against the species, backfired when he was exposed, tried for attempted murder, and ultimately fled to Guyana to escape justice. He died of dysentery in 1971. The Floridian feraligatr, R. dusk, still live on.

 

[Persephone]

The final Crashmoth commission. Will be moving onto Akala next week.

Swampert (Mudkip, Marshtomp)
Amansluto regenspalus

Overview

There is a narrow ecosystem between the vast oceans and the sprawling riversheds. Where fresh and saltwater meet they can form salt marsh estuaries, fields of specialized grasses and trees living around the mixed waters. These ecosystems can be dry at low tide and submerged at high tide. They are always in flux as the land and sea advance and retreat.

The waters of salt marshes are usually too saline for freshwater fish and most reptiles to bother with. They are too shallow for the marine apex predators. In this narrow gap swampert emerge as the kings of the marsh. They are also the protectors of the marsh, building impromptu flood walls and dams to reduce the harm from hurricanes and droughts.

Mudkip hunt the smaller fish and insects that are attracted to estuaries for the lack of large predators. Marshtomp will hunt slightly larger species but supplement their diet with plants. Swampert, despite being the largest and strongest creatures in the ecosystem, are almost entirely herbivorous. They are generally good-natured creatures that are tolerant of both salt and freshwater after a brief period of acclimation.

All of this made swampert a common starter pokémon in eastern, southeastern, and southern Asia. Many trainers made a point of training a team of six, one aligned with each of the elements – air, water, earth, wood, metal, and fire. This tradition is what led to the modern party limit in most of the world. Most water-types were strictly aquatic and not useful for travelers. Water-types that were powerful, amphibious, and easily tamed became very popular.

Mudkip was introduced to Alola in the 1800s when Asian laborers were brought en masse to the islands to work the new spider silk and pinap berry plantations. Modern conservationists generally do not see swampert as a major threat – they eat seagrasses, including an endemic species, but they are protective of their vulnerable ecosystems. Politicians love swampert for helping shore up the coast before major storms, reducing the damage done. For now they are quasi-protected.

In Alola swampert have the added bonus of being ground-types. There aren’t many ground-types on the archipelago and most are concentrated in a single valley that is notoriously difficult to explore. Swampert are great teammates, either as an alternative starter or when caught as a marshtomp.

Physiology

Mudkip is classified as a pure water-type. Marshtomp and swampert are classified as dual water- and ground-types. While there is a general policy of keeping pokémon the same typing throughout the evolutionary line, wild mudkip seldom use any ground-type moves. Trainers wishing to teach their pokémon one must rely on a very good breeder or a TM.

Mudkip are small salamanders. In areas with clearer waters, they are usually a dark brown or very dark blue. In areas with murky waters, they develop a lighter coloration. Specimens bred as a starter usually have a light blue color morph instead of a darker or brown one. There are also cross-bred specimens with axlawful that are light red or pink.

Mudkip have prominent gills that are sometimes a different color morph than the rest of their body. They do not have lungs, but can breathe on land via their slime. The slime itself is a bubble with mucous on the outside and water underneath. As long as the wet slime is connected to air it can absorb oxygen and move it towards the gills. Their eyesight is quite weak. Instead, they rely on their extremely sensitive head fin to sense the world around them. They can detect minute differences in water currents or moderate differences in air currents to tell where potential prey and predators are. Their large, tall tail allows them to move in the water without much effort.

Mudkip have three rows of teeth but do not chew. These teeth are designed to keep fish, amphibians, and invertebrates from escaping while they are being eaten. They rely on suction to pull the prey into the throat and towards the stomach. Outside of simply biting prey they can also kill them with blunt force. Mudkip can push things up to four times heavier than them.

Marshtomp are in a somewhat awkward middle stage between the carnivorous mudkip and the herbivorous swampert. This is best seen in their teeth: they have three sets. One is sharp and angled to keep prey in. The other two are only along one side of the mouth each. These are blunt teeth for chewing seagrass and other plants. In this strange way marshtomp teeth resemble humans.

Marshtomp’s tail all but disappears as it ages. Each of the hind legs has a fin grow out of it. These fins are useful for movement but primarily used for sensory purposes. The head fin grows even larger and more sensitive.

Swampert are built for power. Their muscles are much stronger and they gain several pads and braces to help them exert their strength without injury. Like most amphibians swampert are also fairly quick to heal. They have two head fins instead of one, dramatically boosting their sensory abilities. Swampert can detect even distant storms and tsunamis. Their tailfin regrows, this time much larger than before. Between their tail and muscles swampert can swim up to fifty miles per hour. They can also lift objects weighing up to one ton. Their baseline senses are still rather weak, but the atmospheric and hydrospheric radar senses more than make up for it. Swampert’s teeth are all very blunt. Their stomach is also more similar to a cow’s than to mudkip’s. This allows them to eat seagrasses, which are often very high in silica content and difficult to digest.

Swampert can grow to be five feet long and weigh up to two hundred pounds. Wild lifespans are around thirty years, but captive specimens can live to be fifty.

Behavior

Mudkip are carnivores. They prefer to bury themselves in the benthos and then lunge out when something swims or crawls by. They will eat anything they can fit in their mouth and attempt to eat several things that they can’t. Mudkip send almost all of their time in the water, only going onto land under a swampert’s supervision. They mostly stay near their parents until they evolve.

Marshtomp are relatively independent. The local swampert will keep an eye on them and occasionally step in to offer guidance, but they are mostly on their own. Marshtomp do not hold territory themselves. Instead, they wander through the territories of various swampert. Marshtomp spend some time basking on land to increase their body temperature or to dig out their burrows. These burrows go beneath the water table so that they are partially flooded. Sometimes small animals and pokémon will seek refuge in abandoned burrows, especially during high tides. Marshtomp will often engage in contests of strength with other marshtomp, although these are for entertainment and training rather than territorial disputes. Neither holds territory so there is nothing to dispute.

Younger marshtomp primarily act as ambush predators like mudkip. When times are hard they will resort to eating grasses, shrubs, and fruit in the water and on land. Older marshtomp increasingly transition their diet towards plants and only rarely hunt, usually when the local swampert believe the area is being overgrazed and begin to defend it.

Swampert are the benevolent rulers of their territory. They are almost exclusively herbivorous and prefer to eat seagrasses. During the day they can sometimes be seen basking on land. Swampert first alter their environment by building large tunnel and shallow pond systems that provide places for them to bask in shallow water. The tunnels are often deep enough to extend under the seagrass and connect many different parts of their territory. The submerged tunnels are often a haven for smaller fish and pokémon. Swampert will usually ignore them but attack larger pokémon that try to intrude.

Swampert will also act against anything they believe is a threat to the local ecosystem. Pokémon that knock over trees may be swiftly punished. If the seagrasses are becoming overgrazed, they will take to eating on land or hunting in the water. They will lash out at anything that tries to eat the seagrasses during this time, including marshtomp.

Finally, swampert can sense incoming natural disasters. When they approach swampert will begin to stack boulders and build earthen walls to protect their territory from harm. Sometimes they will even build walls around local towns if they have the time. During droughts they will build earthen dams to keep water in the area.

Aside from their own mate they will not allow other swampert into their territory. They do not compete for dominance via physical competition as their physical strength will react. Instead they have a rather more peculiar display. Swampert can push their eyes slightly out of the socket so they bulge out. they can also make barking and screaming sounds. Territorial contests involve both swamperts extending their eyes and making loud noises while occasionally pounding the ground. It is unclear how a victor is determined, but eventually one will turn around and run away. They sometimes attempt this display in trainer battles to the confusion of everyone else involved.

Husbandry

The species is generally easy to care for, diet aside. They can tolerate being on land for hours at a time and can swim in a wide range of salinities. The relative docility of swampert and the small size of mudkip means that most Pokémon Centers allow them to use the community pools. Marshtomp are sometimes banned.

Mudkip need to be misted regularly when on land. This can be done with a spray bottle filled with dechlorinated water. They will gorge themselves if offered too much food so trainers should make sure to feed them no more than fifteen (and no less than eight) percent of their weight every day. Crustaceans are mudkip’s favorite food, but they will also eat fish, worms, small amphibians, and some commercial insect mixes. Pokémon Supply Stores, especially in Malie, sometimes sell a mix specially designed for mudkip and marshtomp.

Mudkip must be given access to dechlorinated water at least once for every twelve hours they are outside their pokéball. Misting and high humidity can increase this, but never to more than sixteen hours. Rain can provide hydration needs, although mudkip still prefer to swim. Because salinity does not matter to them this can be met by both freshwater streams or ponds and the ocean. Trainers in Alola are rarely very far from either. Most routes run through nature reserves or leased private land held for conservation or sport purposes. These are often clustered around rivers, ponds, or the coast as these are the areas where pokémon congregate. While mudkip can be safely touched if recently hydrated, the pokémon usually dislike it. Their slimy skin can also make the experience unpleasant for the trainer.

Marshtomp and swampert can go for up to twenty-four hours outside their ball without hydration. On balance, their dietary needs are somewhat more difficult to satisfy. Marshtomp will need to be slowly weened off of crustaceans and meat-based mixes and onto seaweed such as kelp. Swampert’s diet should primarily be made up of seaweeds with other plant matter used as a treat or filler for no more than 30% of their food intake. Thankfully, kelp and seaweed are common in Alolan cuisine and can often be purchased from grocery stores.

All stages are generally intelligent and curious pokémon. They can be easily housebroken and trained in battle and quality-of-life commands. Some swampert even develop an apparent understanding of their trainer’s language. Toys are appreciated. Large rubber balls are generally the best as mudkip enjoy knocking them around and marshtomp and swampert will often try to wrestle them. While they may not be physically affectionate, they enjoy spending time around their trainer and team. Trainers should try to play with the pokémon. Games of catch, chase, and occasionally wrestling or tug-of-war are good. The swampert (and even mudkip) will win the strength-based games, but they will usually restrain themselves enough that their trainer seemingly has a chance. At the very least they will try to ensure their trainer does not get hurt. Fighting types make for good teammates. Strangely enough, they prefer being around carnivores over herbivores. Swampert can get a little testy with other seaweed eaters.

Some trainers also make good use of their pokémon’s storm sense to seek shelter when the weather is about to get bad.

While swampert are generally nocturnal, they can easily shift their sleep schedule to be more active in the day. Instead, their most annoying habit is their desire to dig. Swampert ordinarily build deep and long tunnel systems across their entire habitat. At the very least they will want to build burrows around the camp site. Burrows are allowed on land with no grass cover so long as the pokémon fills it back in when they are done. Ground-type engineers such as swampert have no trouble filling in the holes they make. Some trainers will leave their swampert alone for a full day and discover that their pokémon has made a ten-foot-high pile of dirt to put back in the ground.

Illness

Most amphibians suffer some health problems when their skin dries up. The swampert line literally cannot breathe on land when dehydrated. Frequent exposure to rain or water bodies will help alleviate the problem. Any habitat pokéballs used should have a water feature. Dehydration symptoms are thankfully visible almost immediately. The first symptom is slightly clouded slime. Ordinarily the slime is transparent. If this is not the case the pokémon should be withdrawn immediately until such time as hydration is possible.

Outside of dehydration most injuries are fairly easily healed with time and the occasional potion or berry. After intense battles the pokémon should still be submitted to professional care, but for the most part they are quite hardy.

Evolution

Mudkip steadily grow until their second birthday, when they begin a fairly rapid growth spurt upon evolution. The formal demarcation line between mudkip and marshtomp is the growth of fins on the legs. Marshtomp continue to grow quickly over the course of six months before evolving again into swampert. The formal demarcation line between marshtomp and swampert is the growth of the second headfin. This rapid growth is part of the reason that mudkip is a popular starter: they can be given to a trainer shortly before evolution and that trainer will have a swampert of their own by the end of the challenge.

Battle

Swampert are very durable and power. They can strike from afar with water, ice, and seismic moves. Swampert can also support their team with moves such as stealth rock, yawn, and, in double battles, wide guard. All of these traits make them consistently popular picks among competitive trainers, especially those from Asia. Water specialists generally like swampert because of their ability to no-sell most electric moves and retaliate with earthquake or bulldoze.

Swampert’s main problem is that they lack reliable recovery or setup moves, limiting their utility as a tank. Other popular tanks such as corviknight, slowking, avalugg, and tangrowth can rapidly heal themselves. Swampert more or less cannot outside of rest, which has its own drawbacks. Wish support can help but is often difficult to time. Still, swampert are often used as a hard backstop rather than a wall. The lack of setup moves outside of work up and curse, combined with their low speed on land, means that they will not be able to use their bulk to set up for a sweep.

Swampert might not be able to wall or sweep an entire team, but they are very good at taking out one or two particularly troublesome pokémon. Put them against the biggest threat to the team and they will often be able to outlast it and knock it out themselves. Even if they themselves go down afterwards their main purpose has still been fulfilled.

On the island challenge swampert’s main kit should include a water move, an ice attack for coverage (if possible), at least one ground attack, and stealth rocks. This lets them control the battlefield and overpower almost all opponents. Earthquake, ice beam, and hydro pump let swampert strike from a distance. Up close their own massive power can overpower almost everything. They can easily hold their own throughout the challenge, although they may be dead weight against grass specialists and totems.

Marhstomp can capitalize upon their durability to act as utility pokémon with moves such as yawn and stealth rock. Their decent bulk lets them go on the offensive once their utility role is fulfilled. A marhtomp alone is a good pick for the first two islands, around which point it will probably be close to evolution.

While mudkip are relatively durable, their main strength is in offense. Most young pokémon struggle to pack a punch. Mudkip has no such problem. If taught physical attacks such as rock smash and rock throw they can quickly establish themselves as a physical powerhouse. Mudkip has a slight problem in that they do not easily learn physical water-type attacks such as waterfall or dive. Trainers may need to shell out cash for a TM in order to teach these moves. Still, mudkip are powerful for their age and most starter mudkip are close to evolution.

Acquisition

Alola’s largest salt marsh by far is the brooklet watershed’s estuary in Brooklet Hill Commonwealth Park. The estuary is a mix of native seagrasses and introduced Spartina alterniflora, which almost nothing in Alola but swampert can digest. Swampert have established themselves throughout the ecosystem. The most powerful tend to have territories closer to the ocean. Swampert can also be found in the marshes of western and northeastern Ula’Ula, portions of southeastern Melemele, and along the eastern coast of Poni island.

Swampert are protective of their mudkip. To avoid any problems in the area mudkip capture is prohibited. Marshtomp and swampert capture is allowed. Both will generally go with a trainer they show interest in who can beat them in a proving battle. Be warned that winning a proving battle against a swampert can be very difficult and they usually consider grass-types to be cheating. If they consider their capture illegitimate, they will probably be uncooperative until their trainer proves themselves some other way.

Marshtomp and swampert can be purchased, captured, or adopted with a Class II license. Mudkip can be purchased or adopted with a Class I license.

Breeding

Swampert do not have formalized mating rituals. Instead they may simply come to respect a swampert in an adjoining territory and agree to partner together, merging their territories and getting ready to raise children. Mating usually occurs in March as the rainy season comes to a close. The female will then store the male’s gametes in a pouch near her uterus. As the dry season winds down she will introduce the sperm to her eggs to fertilize them. She will lay up to fifty eggs in a specialized chamber in her tunnel network. At least one of the swampert will guard the eggs at all times until they hatch. The eggs hatch after a six-week incubation period. The swampert will continue to guard their mudkip until they evolve.

Captive breeding is much the same. Swampert are periodically introduced to each other until they agree to mate. Then they are released onto a fairly large property to dig their tunnel systems. On smaller properties they will usually burrow across the property line, even if concrete is extended into the ground. This means that there are very few breeders with multiple swampert. It is more likely that they also breed other species on the property their swampert occupy.

When the mudkip get close to evolution the swampert may allow the breeder to distribute them to other trainers, especially if the swampert are given the chance to evaluate the trainer beforehand.

Relatives

Swampert’s closest relative is axlawful, an endangered and heavily protected species from Anahuac. They can also cross breed with most other amphibians and some aquatic reptiles. Swampert can crossbreed with dragapult despite being separated in time by hundreds of millions of years.

 

[Persephone]

Stoutland (Lillipup, Herdier)
Canis huddersfield

Overview

Stoutland are a very popular pet in the cooler portions of the world. They are intelligent, low-maintenance, and good with children. Stoutland can even be used as farm laborers in a pinch. Gym challengers can easily obtain a lillipup as a starter and continue using it to the end of the challenge. It can then remain in the household once the challenge is over.

Stoutland have been imported to Alola, most notably around Paniola to assist in herding. They do not fair well in the archipelago. Their long, thick coats were developed to help them survive in mountain ranges and northern areas with long, harsh winters. Tropical lowlands are not good territory for them. While a skilled groomer can keep their hair short, this is expensive and the pokémon tends not to like it. The process also undercuts their defensive prowess in battle. There are better canine companions in Alola. Eevee are becoming increasingly easy to obtain and most of its evolutions fair better than stoutland in Alola’s heat. Manectric are loyal companions that can also herd livestock if needed. Furfrou and granbull are also fairly low maintenance, health problems aside.

The species are still great companions, of course, but they struggle in the local climate in ways that other potential team members do not. Ice specialists that already have to figure out ways to keep their pokémon cool can make good use of a stoutland. Most other trainers cannot.

There are currently efforts to crossbreed stoutland with arcanine to produce stoutland that are better suited for warm climates. Some early successes have been reported, but there are not enough hybrids at this time for widespread public distribution.

Physiology

Lillipup, herdier, and stoutland are all classified as pure normal types. The designation is mostly uncontroversial. Some taxonomists argue for a secondary ice-typing as the species is well adapted for life in the cold. While stoutland have some limited cryokinesis it is not their preferred means of either battling or maintaining their temperature. As such most taxonomists agree that stoutland does not qualify for an ice-typing.

Lillipup are small canine pokémon. Their coat is long and usually brown, grey, or white. In some captive specimens the coat will grow until it reaches the ground. The remaining purely wild populations tend to have shorter but thicker coats. The most notable feature of lillipup is their facial hair. It is loaded with very sensitive whiskers that can create a radar-like view of the world. The whiskers can even sense ghost-types hiding in the spectral plane.

Herdier’s facial hair retracts to cover their forehead, eyebrows, and muzzle while leaving the rest of the face with only normal fur. On balance they gain a long black coat on their back. The fur in this coat is very dense and can link together to form a sort of armor. It also keeps them very warm, which is important as they leave their parents and venture into the cold on their own.

Stoutland have black protective fur covering most of their body. The white facial hair grows out into a moustache that can reach the ground. Stoutland are also a lot wider and bulkier than herdier and lillipup. Some of this mass is fur, but most is not. Stoutland also have an inner eyelid that protects their eyes from impacts. This is useful when running through snow or hailstorms, but their broad paws and inner eyelid can also make them effective at running on sand.

Stoutland can grow to be four feet tall at the withers. They can weigh up to 300 pounds, although most weigh less than 180. Captive specimens can live for up to thirty years. Wild and feral individuals, especially in Alola, do not live nearly as long.

Behavior

Wild stoutland can still be found in portions of the Crown Tundra, Scandanavia, and Siberia. Despite thousands of years of domestication these populations are physically similar due to continued interbreeding between wild, feral, and captive specimens.

Stoutland mate for life. In cold climates they will usually hunt separately, especially if there are lillipup or the female is pregnant. Stoutland can use their powerful legs and broad paws to chase down prey over the snow. Alternatively, they can use their whiskers to sense creatures hidden by snow, dirt, or foliage and then strike at the hidden prey. Stoutland are not the largest creatures in their home range but their tenacity and durable coat let them take on creatures even larger than they are.

Wild lillipup seldom stray far from their parents. The stoutland’s fur can keep their children warm. The parents will also dig a deep burrow under the snow or dirt for their puppies to take shelter in. As the lillipup grow older they may be brought along for hunts or territorial patrols.

Territorial disputes between stoutland tend to be resolved by moustache length: the stoutland with the largest moustache will get whatever territory (and mate) it wants. Lesser dogs will have to settle for smaller territories and less powerful mates. Biological sex and dominance have little to do with each other: either can be the dominant stoutland in an area and have their choice of mates.

Lillipup are forced out by their parents as they near evolution. The new herdier will typically form packs of six to twelve individuals. Packs tend to hunt together. Herdier are quite clever. They can set up ambushes formed either of other herdier lying in wait or crudely made traps of pitfalls and sticks.

All wild stoutland in Alola are recently introduced ferals. The wild population has been observed breeding, but it is not believed that the current population is self-sustaining in the long term. Herdier in particular struggle to keep up active hunting strategies while overheating. Stoutland can at least easily dig up roots and buried prey to eat. In the wild shrubs and roots are only a small portion of stoutland’s diet in the north. In Alola it seems to constitute about thirty to forty percent of biomass consumed.

Wild stoutland are known to be fond of people. They may have begun hunting with humans as far back as fifty thousand years ago, although their proper domestication did not occur until much later. Wild stoutland will happily rescue any human they see in trouble. Sometimes this courtesy even extends to pokémon who could have been prey if the stoutland was hungrier. Attacks on humans are vanishingly rare and almost entirely attributable to rabies.

Husbandry

Stoutland are fairly standard canines. Their diet can be composed exclusively most pre-prepared canine mixes. They can easily be trained to use a litter box, or at least to only defecate and urinate outside. Walks are greatly appreciated. A stoutland without sufficient exercise can become very rambunctious. At their size they can unintentionally damage property while riled up.

Stoutland have a few advantages over other canines. Not even lillipup bark or yap without very good reason, making them a quiet dog good for tenants. Stoutland also do not shed. In spite of this managing their hair is easily the hardest part of their husbandry. Herdier and stoutland have fur that acts as a sort of armor. It can be very difficult to trim without hurting the pokémon. Grooming is best left to professionals. While stoutland hair can be allowed to grow out this will cause the pokémon to overheat in the Alolan sun. Outside of regular trimming session the hair will need to be regularly brushed to prevent knotting.

All stages are very social. They are known for having bad separation anxiety when removed from trusted humans or teammates. On balance, herdier and stoutland they are quite good with caring for children and other pokémon. The line is very intelligent: even lillipup are as smart as human toddlers. Stoutland have the equivalent intelligence of a ten-year-old child. A stoutland is undyingly loyal to the people it is attached to. Those without the pokémon’s trust will struggle to get it to listen. Any abuse or neglect is remembered and will be held against the trainer for years to come. Affection and care are likewise remembered and rewarded.

Illness

Stoutland are prone to most canine diseases. Rabies vaccination is mandatory for all lillipup within three weeks of capture or birth. Tick, flea, and worm medications are readily available from all pokémon supply stores.

Digestive tract issues are particularly common in stoutland. They are prone to constipation, diarrhea, and vomiting. These symptoms are especially likely after a change in diet. Care should be taken to phase in any dietary changes slowly. In the event of diarrhea make sure to provide the pokémon with plenty of fluids and a cool place to rest.

Many newborn lillipup suffer from low blood sugar. If feedings are not frequent enough health problems can quickly arise. This is most common in hang-raised lillipup but can occur in specimens raised by their mother, especially if the mother has not had a role model to teach her the ropes of motherhood. Sluggishness can be hard to spot right away as lillipup are not particularly active while nursing. Glassy eyes are the first readily observable symptom, at least in puppies that have opened their eyes (see Breeding). Make sure that these puppies are immediately fed and then closely monitored until they are old enough to eat solid food.

Evolution

As lillipup grow older their black coat begins to grow in. Stoutland will ordinarily begin to reject their offspring once the first black hairs appear. The formal demarcation line for evolution is the growth of a full coat of black fur. This usually occurs around the sixteen-month mark.

Herdier continue to grow as they age. Their black coat grows as they do. The formal demarcation line between herdier and stoutland is either sexual maturity or the growth of a moustache at least half a meter long, whichever comes first. This usually occurs around the twenty-five month mark in captivity or the thirty month mark in the wild.

Battle

Stoutland are durable with a special ability to sense and strike ghosts. Their support movepool is small but functional with moves such as thunder wave and helping hand. None of this is quite enough to save them on the competitive circuits. Many top trainers have a stoutland as a personal or family pet, but they will rarely bring the pokémon to their serious matches. They are simply outclassed by other normal types. Between tauros, miltank, bouffalant, bewear, kangaskhan, and snorlax there are no real niches left for stoutland to fill. Even stoutland’s armored fur is an incomplete defense as the coat does not extend to the face.

None of this is to say that stoutland are weak. They emphatically are not. But trainers with a great deal of time, resources, and assistance will almost always pick the stronger pokémon to fill a slot on their main roster.

A stoutland can easily stay competitive up to the end of the island challenge. Their size and strength let them hit hard enough to damage even the late totems that are not inclined to hold back or surrender. Herdier and stoutland’s fur can take most physical hits, although they must play around strikes to the face. Stoutland even has solid coverage options in stomping tantrum, crunch, and the elemental fangs. Many of those options can be taught even without TMs.

Herdier are durable. While they hit less hard than stoutland they can still deal decent damage and outpace many slower opponents. Their tenacity can also let them pull through a few matches they might otherwise be at a disadvantage in.

Lillipup are courageous against any opponent they believe they stand a chance against, no matter how slim. If they believe there is no chance they will turn tail and attempt to flee. Hyping the pokémon up before battles and walking through planned strategies helps bolster their confidence. Lillipup, like its evolutions, functions best as a bulky attacker that can take a few hits and deal decent damage in return. Be cautious, though, as lillipup do not have a full coat of protective fur to help them take hits to their back.

Acquisition

Feral populations can be found around Paniola Town on Akala Island. Capture of lillipup is allowed with a Class I license, although it is best to catch one that has already been rejected by its parents. Herdier and stoutland capture is handled by the DNR. Simply put wild herdier and stoutland have a difficult time adjusting to new trainers and they are not suitable for capture. The line are frequently available from both breeders and shelters.

Breeders present the opportunity to raise a lillipup from a young age and form a particularly close bond. Many shelters also have herdier and stoutland that outgrew their old apartment homes or were surrendered due to the cost of feeding and grooming them. These pokémon start off stronger and are often grateful to the trainer who got them out of the shelter.

All three stages can be purchased or adopted with a Class I license.

Breeding

Stoutland mate for life. They do not have a standard breeding season and usually make another litter as soon as the last one has been kicked out. After a five-week pregnancy the female will give birth to about six pups. The male and female will then diligently watch over their children until they come close to evolution, at which point the offspring will be kicked out to pave the way for a new litter. Stoutland in the wild and captivity have also been known to adopt orphaned lillipup and, on occasion, babies of other canine species. There are old legends in Europe of future heroes being abandoned in the wilderness and raised by stoutland.

It is relatively easy to breed stoutland in captivity. If they accept a mate they will periodically produce litters. The older lillipup can then be given away to other trainers without issue. Stoutland have been known to cross breed with most canines, especially true dogs and wolves.

Stoutland with offspring of their own will put less time and attention towards helping raise teammates and children in their household. Trainers should keep this in mind when deciding if they want to breed their stoutland or not. A childless stoutland will happily babysit human children or make sure other pokémon have their needs met.

Relatives

Stoutland’s closest living relatives are boltund and furfrou, other dogs domesticated in Europe. While stoutland have always been more dominant in the northern reaches of Europe, the other dogs became more popular in the warmer areas around the Mediterranean. Over time boltund became associated with Galar, furfrou with Kalos, and stoutland with Russia. Wild populations of stoutland can still be found across much of montane or temperate Europe. Feral populations can now be found across much of the globe.

There are a few breeds of stoutland made by crossbreeding with other canines. The most common is the regal stoutland, made by crossing with furfrou. Despite having even longer fur the regal stoutland is actually more tolerant of warm weather. Its fur is also much better as wool. The large size combined with usable wool makes them a niche farm animal in parts of Europe. Crosses with boltund can produce the Wyndon stoutland. The fur of Wyndon stoutland is often repulsed from the body, making them appear much larger than they actually are. This has the side effect of dramatically reducing their cold tolerance.

More niche crosses include the static stoutland, a similar cross with manectric that is much smaller but better able to control electric energies. The plains, Mongolian or royal stoutland is an attempted cross with arcanine for use in colder areas. This is one of the few crossbreeds that is larger than a purebred stoutland. They have much thinner fur and better endurance than purebred stoutland as well.

While stoutland can interbreed with other canines those crossbreeds are not routinely bred for and are the result of individual pokémon taking an interest in each other. This is far more common in captivity than in the wild. Stoutland have been observed mating with most canines, with a few exceptions. Species that select mates based in part on intelligence (zoroark, ninetales, lucario, espeon, sylveon) are often reluctant to settle for a creature they perceive as juvenile at best.